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How to stop squealing brakes and get more power (bedding in brake pads and rotors) | Syd Fixes Bikes

Jun 06, 2021
Welcome to the shed. I'm Sid Mackie on camera and today we're going to learn how to get

more

brake

power

by sanding and burning your

rotors

. My socks are also stuffed into my tights. Where are the paparazzi for this step? I need coronavirus for this task you will need a center lock rotor removal tool or a t25 if you have six belt

rotors

a three thousand allen wrench paper towels

brake

cleaner and sandpaper why are we doing this right? Nobody likes their

brakes

going crazy. Noises, oh, that sounds good, but also if you don't have the

brakes

and the

pads

right, quote, burnt, you don't have the right brake

power

and I think a lot of people don't know if they burn out their brakes or not.
how to stop squealing brakes and get more power bedding in brake pads and rotors syd fixes bikes
I don't know how to burn your rotors or maybe they spilled something on your rotors and now I don't know why the brakes aren't working properly. There are a couple of ways to tell if you need to burn your

pads

and rotors on one of them. it's obviously that horrible, it's not doing it now, there's a horrible screeching sound when you're driving or in this case we can get it to do it by just holding the brake and pushing, that's obviously not a good sign right off the bat. the first time you hit the brakes you say "wow", that doesn't feel good, it's probably a problem with the pads and rotors, if your brakes slowly over the course of a descent seem to get weaker and weaker, it's probably a bleed . problem assuming you have hydraulic brakes and we'll have a different video on that if they get stronger the

more

you use them it's probably a burning problem because you're essentially burning that crap off as you go we know why these brakes aren't. working well, we will put the blame on someone else.
how to stop squealing brakes and get more power bedding in brake pads and rotors syd fixes bikes

More Interesting Facts About,

how to stop squealing brakes and get more power bedding in brake pads and rotors syd fixes bikes...

Macky's brother rode this bike right after we changed the pads and rotors and I think we tried to explain how to burn the brakes, evidently we didn't do a very good job so I never got burned from the start which often leads to problems in the future. You just want people to yell at us for putting up our prop. Fun fact, it doesn't hurt at all. The front tunnel seems to be worse from my observation. so you go to step one, take the rotor off, that's going to be that difficult, try not to cut your hands on the center lock rotors which are far superior to other types of rotors and then we'll take the pads off.
how to stop squealing brakes and get more power bedding in brake pads and rotors syd fixes bikes
Is this little guy going to show up? Does it have a name? uh I have no idea, it's really just a safety thing, undo the pin okay, I feel like there's no good way to tell by looking at the pads and rotors if they're not. burnt is noticeable sometimes, but these actually don't look that bad, there's just a couple of things to look for in the brake pads, like these brake pads, they're obviously very new, they're not worn at all, so it's a good sign, because your brakes might squeak because you're on metal, I mean, I think the fact that it's so black is not good, it's more the shine, this kind of metallic, yeah, the fact that it's reflective, That's generally a bad sign, everything is the same.
how to stop squealing brakes and get more power bedding in brake pads and rotors syd fixes bikes
The paper you're going to give me should be enough, yes, but it's hard to hold, so what are you doing just sanding away all this dirt? You're trying to essentially remove a layer of the pad to remove any type of contaminants that are there. the shine that's there you just want to file it off, I mean it's probably like a tenth of a millimeter or something, this won't really affect the life of your brakes and if they didn't burp beforehand why would you rather

stop

working? breaks for two more days, I'm sure someone will still be angry, they'll say I can't spend the money to brake my brakes with sandpaper burning on the brakes, it's something I really feel bike shops should do when they change the brake pads, but they don't do it most of the time, so I think they usually try, but as you know, they have a schedule, so they'll just do it very fast and very short, and sometimes you need a little. a little more than that, I'm just saying that if you pick up your bike at the store and you just bought new pads and it doesn't break in right, it's not necessarily that they did a bad job, you know they may just not have burned it in, for Which Depending on your definition, is a bad job and one thing you should be aware of is not doing what is suggested, which is touching the rotors afterwards because there is grease in the oils on your hands.
These are pads, not rotors. Sorry, I touched the pills later. Basically you want the sandpaper to be the last thing you can blow on. Can I touch him with this or not? I would just blow it. This is not enough sandpaper. You're basically just scraping the rotor, that's the goal. I don't really like trying to remove a layer of it, you're just scraping both sides, yeah I slipped and touched it. He could probably find you a larger piece of sandpaper if you want, so now you offer him not to touch the rotor. but here's like a piece of sandpaper two millimeters wide, okay, I'll go get you better sandpaper, okay, I hereby present to you a big piece with a big piece of sandpaper, okay, that will make this much easier, sandpaper paint, it is not.
I really like a good way to hold the rotor while you're doing this: you touch the rotor or you sand your hand, I mean, I think if you put it on the table and hold it in the center, yeah, there you go. I've done this to death at this point, so if you look at it, there are some scratch marks and that's good, it's basically like polishing it up a little bit. Can you take this? No, get my coffee out of the way now if you look at these less shiny and they're like they're less black so that's what you want you want them to look like new brake pads that was a lot it didn't actually spray it just sprouted and then you probably want to spray the back also I think I'm in squirt mode okay now I'm going to put this puppy back on the steering wheel oh that side I'm not trying to keep the camera off the fact of that I'm wearing socks and sandals, they're not really crocodiles, they're high fashion, my socks are also stuffed inside my tights, where are the paparazzi?
You want to make this tighter than you think, at least for me, because when I don't make it tighter than I think, it comes loose if you're like a huge guy, maybe you tighten less than you think, okay, oh, the pads need to be put back in if the problem was that there was a contaminant oh spray the break it could be in the gripper so I would go ahead and just spray the gripper yes that's good all over the carpet don't do this in your living room and then run the paper towel there and just wipe is the part that always confuses me oh one says write one says left oh right Get it, the reason you put that widget is because then if that screw goes loosens, you can't go back all the way and you lose the brake pads, sign holding on with a professional's knee, okay, so now we're going to put this back on.
We're going to center the brake if that sounds totally strange to you make sure you watch our video on how to center the brakes because we're not going to do it in detail now, actually we're not even going to center the brake because it was already centered so what do you know about burning the brakes? It can be a challenge if you don't have an easily accessible hill. I think that's why we often have this problem here because we live on a slow dirt road that's flat, what you want is to find a place where you can go at a reasonable speed where you can keep the brakes about three quarters of the way down. quarters of maximum power, so you want everything to be in contact and you want to maintain those three seconds. the front three seconds in the rear three seconds in the front three seconds in the rear making sure you don't

stop

and just alternate back and forth and like Sid said, this is maybe 75 percent of the stopping power you want Listen to it and then how do you know it worked well?
You know it worked when you can lock both the front and rear brakes, so if you can stop with the front skid and rear wheel, then you're good to go however you want. I want to wait to test that until you've done this, I would say five or six times per wheel and that's how you sand and burn the brakes in less than a minute, first remove the pads and rotors and inspect the pads for severely worn or the rotor is burned or worn replace as needed and skip the sanding and cleaning steps if they look good, take a piece of sandpaper and sand the top layer of the pads until they are no longer shiny or metallic, remove any dust and lift the rotor until it is lightly scratched, clean with a non-chlorine brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol if you think there may be a contaminant on your caliper, clean the caliper as well, reinstall the pads and rotors and put the wheel back to the state burned or in bed.
Squeeze the brakes by pulling each brake at 75 full power for three or four seconds without stopping completely. It is ideal to do this on a slight hill, if possible, repeat this for each break five to ten times or until you start to feel it bite, confirm that you are burned by making sure you can block each break completely. You can do this by doing a stoppie or a slide.

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