HOW TO - SHAPE YOUR ROPE BOWLS - & ADD AN ATTACHED LID

Hi, I'm Crafty Patty and thanks for tuning in. I get requests from my viewers for ideas on what to do for another video, so here you go. A viewer asked me if she could make a curvy basket, that's what she called it curvy. basket, so this is what I have done. Now I'm showing you how to carry a basket from a small base that widens and reaches a narrower top and you've put a lid on it. Now this I would call maybe an intermission, maybe too. advanced if you have never made

rope

bowls

before so I suggest you start with my first tutorial on how to make

rope

bowls

, start with something like this first and then work

your

way up to something like this.

There's a little bit more holding techniques, but it's doable, you'll get there and you'll be able to do this with a little practice, so I mean you can do a lot of different eyelid

shape

s like this one here. I've made it a little bit flatter and then domed in the middle and this one here goes up a little bit more, more of a b5 look, so there's a lot of options, a lot of ways to make

your

tops and a lot of different

shape

s that you can make in different shapes for your baskets, so keep watching and I'll show you. how I created this basket and today I'm going to use my Husqvarna manual machine on a size 90 414 Jane needle and 100 glutamine polyester thread and I'm going to show you the cord that I'm using now.

I find this quite interesting. Both are 100 feet, both are strung on rope, both have synthetic cores, and both are 100 quarter inch feet. They are both the same, but look how much bigger this one is, although they look similar in width. By the time it's all wrapped up, this one is much larger and when I make the bowls with this one, I find that it's also a much stiffer bowl, so today I'm going to use the buffalo cotton cord and the same thing. Like all my other rope bowls I always unroll it because if you don't it tends to get tangled while you're sewing and that's just frustrating so I'll unroll it and then roll it back up into a ball and then we're ready to go and we'll sit it on the ground so you can easily pull it out of it now in many of my rope bowl videos I've shown putting a piece of tape on the end of this to contain all those loose ends. now some people have comments well I don't really want tape at the end because you might be able to see it well you cut most of it off but if you really don't want the tape you just have to cut it so it's really really clean and there are no frays and you can wipe most of this off so it's really clean and once it's clean, if you can get a really nice wrapper by forcing all of this in and all those loose ends in a nice tight circle, then of course no I don't use the tape, it just takes a little effort to wrap it and I find sitting on a table a lot easier because you can keep it nice and flat and do your rounds once you've done about four rounds.

I'm going to go in with my pins like I always do one on each side just to keep my little circle together here now what I'm going to do is because I didn't use the ribbon, I'm just going to move this. up and get rid of the loose ends here and the rest I'll be able to sew and the same thing on this side, just pick up the loose ends, okay, so again, like all my other baskets, I'm going to sew with a straight stitch. Straight this way and straight this way to start. What I like to do is you can see that my presser foot is lower and higher because the rope is higher.

I lift my presser foot and bring it towards the middle. more I'm just going to turn so I don't hit my pin and then I start sewing here and then I do the back stitch and then I come back again, so that's what we're going to do now because I've chosen not to use the tape. I'm going to go back and forth in the middle here and just make sure all those little ends aren't flying everywhere. In fact, what I'm going to do here I'm going to choose and then I'll go in. my zigzag, so I'm going to switch and go into my zigzag and then I'm going to back up and we'll contain all those little loose ends right in the middle here and back there, let's go.

I'm just going to go back to my straight stitch, go all the way here and lock it out. I have passed by here. Now I'm going here again. Let him go to the second rope to grab hold and then continue. Back we're going to sew back all the way to the end and forward once you have this first section, now it's a lot easier to go around and make our rounds, which is why I like to do that, so we're going to take out these pins now. Because we did a little bit of a zigzag in these first two rows here, we can leave that part alone.

I'm going to go now and start sewing this round to this round here, so let's go. to go in there and the rope always comes out on the right side, you're forming your basket to the left, now we're going to move on to our zigzag stitch and I'm at as far as I can go for my setting, which is 5.5 for the longest width , but for my length I'm not going to make it as long as normal, I'm going to reduce it to about two, so they will be pretty short little zigzags because then it's easier to go around the circle just for the first part okay, so here we go and this part will go a little bit slower, just set this and then what I'm doing is looking at the break in my presser foot and that tells me I can try it.

To join the bit between my two ropes right now I'm just going to lift the foot and move it and continue sewing in the circle here trying to catch both sides moving it once I know these first few rounds. are you sure so what I'm going to do is lift my presser foot. I'm going to let this spin again just because we don't need all of that the way I have one more round to do and then we'll unroll this again and the reason I have to do this is because we've sewn with the straight stitch and that has grabbed that row and that's why I'm going to let this one curl like this until we're done and We've already passed that where we sew with a straight stitch needle down, press the foot up and around, let's go and now we have it where our two ropes are together, so now I'm going to be constantly having this rope going all the way to the front now we did a very tight seam at the beginning here, now I'm going to increase my length and I'm going to move it up to four, my width is still at 5.5, okay, like this So take it now and let's continue until we have the base the size we wanted.

I'm noticing that this is right in the middle of where my rest and my presser foot are. I'm guiding my string between my thumb and my finger. This is what is not. pulling the string right now but I'm just guiding a little bit with my finger here and look at my fingers on the left how I move this while I sew, you'll notice I have the boards here or if you have a machine with an extended bed, even better, this board with the base facing up will help keep it nice and flat and not domed. You want this to always be flat, so take my base. now about six and a half inches or 16.5 centimeters and now I'm going to start getting my sides out.

I'll gradually lift them probably around here and then I'll have a nice gradual band like now your machine. is going to dictate how far you need to go out to get back in because when you go into that top, the circumference of when you go into that top like this can't be smaller than the height of your machine, so my center has to be able to reach about seven and a half inches that's my height so I can go out as far as I want but I can only go up to seven and a half inches because that's my height I want to be able to put it over the head of my machine so I can keep track of my rounds.

I'm just going to slide a pin in here that will tell me where my starting point is for my first round. I'm going to lift it up slightly. I'm going to go around once, so I'm going to show you that just lifting up a little bit, can you see how that has forced it to round off slightly, so just lifting up that much is going to make a big difference, so I'm going to turn around once. again just with my three fingers here back to my start now instead of having my three fingers flat I'm going to turn them like this and then I'm going to sew again you can see the gradual lifting here that's what's starting to come in again one more round with my three fingers under and now I'm going for four fingers under now I have my whole hand and instead of on the edge here I'm going to slide my Hand over to bring it up a little bit more and you can see the nice gradual curve that we're getting here , so I will continue with that matter each time, moving a little more, moving a little more, moving a little more, until it continues. all the way to the top here once you have the height that you want here then that's when we're going to get right up to the head of our sewing machine and now these rounds here are going to come straight up and then we're going to start to curve it in a few rounds all the way to the end then we'll them I'll show you how we start curving it into um, but I just wanted to show you now that I'm holding it here to keep it like this always. parallel up and down, so I hold it here while I sew.

You've done a few rows, sometimes it's easier to get it off the sewing machine and I've been working now on making it a little straighter. and now we can start to go in, so now we're going to start to tilt it and make it smaller at the top here now now to help it go in again, I'm going to let it fall right over the top of the machine and with my hands and my fingers here I'm going to lift it up a little bit from the bottom like this, so if you can see that action, I'm just going to lift it up like this and put a little bit more tension on the rope so that it starts to help absorb it to a smaller circumference at the top again, letting this fall on the lift and a slight tension on the rope, let's now when you get to this stage before you do your last search to bring it even smaller, twist and pull the laces and make sure you haven't lost any because this guy of making baskets is a little bit more difficult in the way you have to bring it in, so if you have something like that just bring it back, reinforce it, sew it back, fix it and sew it back and then keep fixing all your areas if you have any , so I'll keep going around until this hits here and see how far.

I can get this is what I originally told you when you are making your basket make sure this can go over your machine so you can get in otherwise this type of basket is very difficult to make otherwise this is The easiest way to do it, so you'll see here, if I try to do it this way, I'll get it back to a straight side. That would be cool, that would be another cool design too, but for my design, I want it to keep going in, so this is as far as I can go. You can see where it hits at the top.

I can almost get a couple more rounds in there and then I'll stop because this will be used. finish our top that is going to be joined here so we're going to leave this alone this by the way took 100 feet which was all that skein or skein we're going to call it rope so I'm going to grab my Second skein rope and we're going to start our cover with this , now is the time to decide what shape you want for your lid. I have this one quite high and I have made it like a beehive shape. we're going to start, we're going to start in the center, we're going to work and then when we get to about three or four rows to go, that's what I'm going to add to the rope that's left over from our basket down here and then we're going to attach the rope, like this It will be how we are going to unite here for this one.

You can see I've made it almost flat here and then bulged it out. just for a different effect on this one so you have to decide what you want your lid to look like don't do it or you can make a totally flat lid flat it's whatever you like and again we're going to start our center of our lid exactly the same way as the other one, you can choose to put the tape here and then cut most of it off so that only a little bit of tape is showing or if you don't want the tape just clean it up as best you can and then tighten all of those little raw ends on that circle you want to be nice and tight to contain all those little raw pieces of cotton rope that are getting everywhere so get started. on the table, push it down, wrap it about four rounds, put the pins in like before and I'm going to go in again and again like I did before, just move this up and cut off any excess little pieces of cotton rope and this is a This is a good time to put in another bobbin, as you'll see, I'm almost out and as a reminder, I'm going to take this to my second round of rope so it hooks up nicely and I can secure this area and then topstitch and move forward. now I'm going to go over to the other side again, I'm going to take it to the second row, cut off all my little ends here and remove my pins and the same as before, we've secured this with a zigzag here, so I'm going to now sew these two rounds together. together here always having a string on the right side, the bowl forming to the left, so let's go in and exactly the same as before, lining up my cut on the presser foot with the two string joints and it's in E5.5 E wider, but to going around these little circles I reduce it to about two and a half long, very small, for your zigzag andyou can choose to just pick it up and wrap some of that rope around to finish your last one around where you sewed it with a straight stitch and then we'll be ready to go with the needle down, press its foot up, let it spin and now we're ready to go to where the bead will always go down, this is what I'm going to increase my width or sorry, my width will be the same at 5.5 but I'm going to increase the depth of my zigzag and I'm going to get it to four and now I'm going to start lift already slightly because I want it to be a little bit like a dome, so I'm just going to put my finger under here and we're going to start lifting now and I want my lid to have a little bit of a gradual slope so I'm going to hold it in the same position throughout the entire top, so I'm going to stop there because I need to add this string to tie it together, so now I'm sitting at about six and a half inches. or 16.5 centimeters and this one for my measurement at the top is about eight and a half or about 21 centimeters so we're going to remove it now and we have to do a little calculation with our rope and then cut the ropes and put them together and we'll finish our cover, so I'll secure my last part here.

Now we are ready to calculate how much rope we need to make the finished part of our lid fit our basket. I'm going to cut this but I'm going to leave a little bit of length here because I want to be able to make it easier for me to join these two together, so we're going to cut it there, that's all we need for that rope and now. What I'm going to do is just do a rough measurement here, so I'm going to go around this, roughly, the joint, just pinning here and there, and this will allow me to figure out how much rope I need to cut, so I've done about one, two, and three rounds there, starting with my fourth round here, so I'm just putting it in my basket here and seeing how much more I have to do.

From the looks of it, I need to do two more rounds because I want this to overlap this one here, so I think two more rounds should be enough, so I'm just going to loosely wrap this around here, which is one and now there's two. This is what I have left now. I could make this lid stand up a little bit more, so that's what I want you to do is get a rough estimate of how much rope you need if you find that. this was too much, so from here to here I would know that I have to cut so much at the beginning of my rope to be able to cut that amount, but I'm going to leave it, so now I know I have enough rope to finish my project, so I'm going to take all of this out Now, all the pins.

If you say you don't laugh as much as I let you, then you need to make sure when you're doing the cover that you don't. Cut it until you know you have enough to put them together and make a lid big enough to fit in your basket, so I cut it because I was pretty sure I had enough, but if you're not sure, leave it.

attached

to your end, you can always have this for longer if needed. Now it's time to tape this to the machine and we're going to attach this to this and we're going to sew it together.

I'm going to sew this. a little bit closer until I'm that far from the rope and then I'll stop wanting to make sure I keep the same angle I had before on my basket and I almost caught myself because I was lifting it. because I'm used to making other baskets, I want to keep them at the same level, okay, I'm going to stop there and now what I'm going to do is put them together, but I'm going to make sure that it bends a little bit so that when it comes back in it will be a Very tight joint because I'm not using the tape method.

It's a little more difficult because this rope really frays a lot. why you have to have a very narrow fixture so I'm going to put a pin here so that it stays in that position and you can see where it's tilted and I'm going to make all of this come together and When I put it together, we're going to make sure that all of this is nice and neat and pushed in so you can't see where the seam is, so what I'm going to do is try that. to push all these little pieces of cotton rope together and this is where your stylus comes in handy because this is where I'm going to go in and really make sure that I have all of this pushed in as well as possible.

Okay, so let's get a little closer here holding the angle of the basket the same as before, not up, but at the same angle and attaching the rope at the same time. Now I'm going to lower this, so I'm not on my four for my length again. I'm going to keep my width the same at 5.5 but I'm going to reduce this again to about 2.5 and that will give more security to this seam here to make sure it fits right. I joined again, I'm just mixing this all up as best I can and now I'm going to back it up again, secure it more and not worry about what's on the outside, we'll get it on our next round.

Okay, we've made our joint, we can continue with the same angle, now we're going to continue sewing everything that's left that's

attached

to our bowl here and we're going to continue until we get to the end here. We're getting close to our little end here again. I'm going to see if I can push all of these to grip the inside of the rope here so that all of these little ends are tucked into the middle here as best as possible. Now I can, before I use all this rope that's tied up, I want to go back and reinforce that binding a little bit more, so I'm going to stop here, so I just wanted to inspect my joint on both sides and there's a little bit of rope coming up. , I could probably cut it or I could reinforce it a little bit more, so I'm going to reinforce it a little more and on this side again I can do a little bit more reinforcement here as well and Instead of cutting the two ropes that join them, I'm going to go over the rope to make sure all these little ends are tucked in and once you're happy with the strength of your joint, you can go back. inside and continue sewing until the end where they will join.

Now I'm going to have this bowl resting on my body here so I can try to get it as close as I can. To finish off the rest of the attachment here, no, I'm trying to do this as dots to keep my head out of the way, so I'm going to have to squash this a little bit here, so we've got them both coming together still okay, I'm about an inch away. distance from here to where it joins and that's a pretty good join. I'm going to backtrack a few times back and forth because this is the pressure point here, okay.

Take that away and we're done and I'm sorry that my body and this was on the wafer swing showing you the last part, but I was just trying to get as close as I could so I was an inch away and then what? What I was doing was sewing a lot back here just because this is the pressure point to make sure it's nice and secure, so that's where we were sewing it and now we can just turn it over and we have our lid and there we go. our beautiful finished contoured basket that starts narrow at the bottom, widens and then gets closer again and then we show you how to have a lid attached and it just sits beautifully on top to finish, you can use this for so many storage things . or just as a beautiful decorative piece anywhere in your home so I am very happy with how this basket turned out and as you may have noticed it is very solid and that is because I use the buffalo cotton rope.

I really like it a lot if you want a firmer basket then this is a great option and as you can see I don't know if you can see it on camera but it's nice it's pretty solid so we've made the baskets now you know how to make a curved basket and we don't. I don't have enough time in this video to show you how to make some embellishments on this, but that will be a future video. I'm thinking that for this one here I would love to do a gradient blue that goes from dark to lighter. and then maybe dark and the light in the middle here so keep the notification bell on and you might see that video in the future and also another way to beautify is you can add a bead on the top as a handle and you can use embroidery floss to create your own special design work or you can do something like this now I will go into more detail in the next video and show you how I created the fringe, how to do the embroidery work and how to add some embellishments so that Until then keep seeing goodbye for now