How to Sew a Rolled Hem. A comprehensive guide to sewing rolled hem perfectly | Foot Troubleshooting

Hello, welcome back to FRA Dulce Wien techniques and today I will not only show you how to make a

rolled

hem, but I will also show you how to sew a perfect

rolled

hem. My goal is to make the rolled hem fuller. video on the Internet, we will start by cutting the fabric, how to cut it correctly to set yourself up for success. I'm going to show you a couple different ways to attach the rolled hem and I have a lot of them. of detailed shots of that too from different angles so you can really see the details of what's happening and finally I have a

troubleshooting

section so you can look at that and see different little things that may be going wrong when trying to install a roll and how to fix those things, let's start right, so I'll do a cutting demonstration with three different sized tools.

Here is a pair of very small scissors. You can see that all the little micro serrations are in place, which means they are not worn out. It has a nice sharp blade, those little ridges keep the fabric from slipping while you cut. Well, I've done two complete passes and that's as far as I've come. It's probably not the best tool. Here are a pair of nines. re world is nine inches long, you can see the blade is in good shape and I'm going to take a couple of cuts with these and see how much progress you make, they are very, very precise, although that's how you hold on, I'll show you. more on that here in a minute and here are some world tens they are also ready this is how high you hold them you really want to get to the meaty part of your fingers keep your index finger on the outside you use your hole opening motion with your hand to opening and closing that leaf, don't they make a lovely sound?

Look, that's not going to work, never cut like that, there you go, you're going to want some smooth, precise hits, and I'm really going to be able to. Moving on with these tens, you can see that the fabric doesn't slide at all, so now that you know how to cut it the best way, let's go over the machine and talk about how to know how much to cut it. So I have some silk that I have prepared for you and I will show you some tips on how to do a rolled hem. I chose silk organza.

Actually, it is a very common fabric in which we have to make a rolled hem. but it's actually one of the best fabrics for doing a rolled hem, it's got just the right amount of stiffness so when you're really trying to master it in terms of your muscle memory practicing or practicing to really perfect your rolling. hem that you make with your straight stitch I recommend using silk organza, although it is expensive, it will be better as some of your slippery fabrics like satin or chiffon can really try to move away from you, so this is just the right amount of grip.

It has the right amount of stiffness and almost wrinkles when you turn it, so it's a really fabulous fabric to learn on, so a minute ago I showed you the cut and what you're going to do if you're not familiar with your

sewing

yet. proper for a rolled hem is, let's say you have a dress that you're going to have to cut four inches off to fit correctly and you're not exactly sure what your seam allowance should be, well, let's say how much too. In length, you must cut the fabric to the correct length after hemming it.

I hope that made sense, so let's say the bride is standing there and you mark this and this is the floor, okay, then I would know. My paper usually takes up this much space and will depend on many factors on the width of the rolled hem. You know, some of them are quite wide and some of them are very, very small, so it's really going to be something like that. It depends on that too, but for me, like I've done so many times, I just set it and know how much space I'm going to need, but it's not like that when you're first learning, so you need to be able to. to figure out how much extra length I need to not cut the tension too much, so I want to show you that, so let's get back to the question of let's say you have a hem that you know you're going to do.

You have to cut about four inches to get to the finished link, so it would actually be a little less than that. I'd say you can probably safely cut two inches and use what you've cut as a practice sample to see exactly how much extra length you need to get to the finished link. Well, I'll show you that let's say this is going to be really challenging and first you have to have a very small role, that's very important. You need a small needle, okay, this is an 18 and I can feel it, there's a little bit of a burr on the end.

This one has been used and should be thrown in the trash if I were to use it for my rolled hem. you would get barb marks in this direction on the hem and you also wouldn't be able to get a very small paper for some reason, the needle size and thread size directly affect the size of your paper, so if you want a tighter Romanum you need to get a smaller needle, so I'm going to get a size 9 pen, very new, new, my favorite brands of needles are organ needles, this is the 9 ball tip. I hope you can see this, okay, so that's my favorite. mark right so I've threaded that now I have here my right invisible zipper

foot

which is not the best

foot

for this as you know I personally prefer my right and left support feet that's what I used almost all the time so I would actually use the left foot to sip, this is an invisible zipper foot, it's not like the home

sewing

machine or you have the foot that you click back and forth and all that, you just change it, it's fine , so this is my left foot. and the zipper foot visible and I'm going to zoom in and give you a close up of that, but the reason I use the left one is because when we start rolling and sewing we really won't have much fabric on the right one. so we don't want to count on the rights of your foot grabbing that fabric on the right, we want to look to the left, to see how small a roll we can get, that's how I make my rolled hem.

I start with two twists with my fingers, I'll show you this angle and then I'll do it again at a different angle, okay, so this angle doesn't suit you, okay, just wait, I'll give you another angle, okay. The key to this is to use a lot of tension, so I'm going to use my middle finger to apply this tension outward on the left side and I'm going to use my index finger and maybe this other finger that you'll probably like to switch to control the tension. roll up and pull back like this, okay, so the feed teeth pull this way, my finger pulls this way, this other finger pulls this way, tension is very important because tension is what keeps the small rolls if you relax and just let the feed dogs do the work your roll will just relax and bend a little bit and get bigger and that's not what we want now.

I would also say that one of the most important fingers in this sewing technique is the middle finger. By giving yourself that pull out to the left, now it won't always be your middle finger. You know how we use it sometimes, it's fancy footwork or kind of moving some things, but you have to keep this tension out because if you don't. It's going to roll this way and your roll will get bigger. This is the kind of secret sauce that many people don't know about. A lot of times you'll see tutorials where they're just doing this.

I'm back here and nothing is happening here and the dress is like the hem is eating up all the extra fabric at once so don't let that happen so I have it here and I put my Needle down now I'm going to make this little roll and I have a lot of tension here and I'm going to start sewing but I'm already using different fingers here we're going to make that roll a little bit smaller we keep going like this, so I kept going So nice and tight, I was very, very bossy. I didn't let the fabric do what I wanted, so let me show you how small we got it and it's nice and clean and straight, no wrinkles, which is fabulous.

I even pressed this still, okay, so I'm going to do the same thing at a different angle so you can see it, okay, let's go okay, so again I'm going to do this BBD thing, okay, get it under there, somehow, put that needle through it, okay? I use my fingernail to really get under that roll and get it the way I want it to be now when I'm starting out I usually a lot of times grab the thread and pull it tight so I'm doing the same thing. pull it out with my thumb right now, like I said, it doesn't really matter what finger it is, it's very important that that post is on.

I hope you can see this, Maurice. I'm going to roll it down a little bit more. If someone makes a mistake, that's fine, so you have to watch it closely, but remember that our goal was also to measure this, we want to measure it, so this is kind of like for those of you who like to knit or crochet, you know how to crochet. pattern or knitting pattern let me tell you so you know more about me. I hate knitting, seamstresses are very, very Michie, okay, I hate knitting, but anyway, of course, I was curious about it at one point in my life and then I saw that there is you.

You know a pattern and they tell you to always start with a square or you need to knit a square using the thread and type of needles you are going to use so you can see how big your piece is compared to the pattern. I know all that, so that's for those of you who are familiar with that, that's the idea of ​​what we're doing here. Do you want to find out? Okay, I tried my best to make this small, how much seam allowance did I have? that's taken right, so to pull this out you're going to like every third stitch or so, you're going to pull out a little thread here every third stitch yourself, okay, so you're going to go to the back and you're going to pull this . open Sam now this was our finished link right here and this is the cut edge okay and you can see the holes and stuff that you probably can't see but in real life when you look at it you'll be able to see a line of holes where the points were okay, there you have it, it took just a little over a quarter of an inch to do it, so now that you've done it, we always have the long side straight. so I would say okay, here's the line when it's stretched, here's the edge of the fabric.

I would just go ahead and give it a half inch that way you get an extra eighth of an inch. Okay, that would be nice and safe because your edge is I'm going to widen it a little bit more, that's how I would solve it. Well, I'm going to sew a little more at a couple different angles so you can see it. So I have a troubleshooter for you, because when you're sewing a rolled hem, there's always going to be something that goes wrong and I want you to be able to look at the problem and know exactly what it is and how to fix it, so that's what I'm going to show you next. .

Here we go now. I've watched the videos on YouTube about the role at different times and I was looking for additional secrets and tips, things I hadn't thought about and one thing I really found missing was that outward pull, so I think what happens is that As you gain experience your brain just realizes that you need to pull this way to prevent the roll from getting too big and maybe people won't even notice, so I hope that little element helps you a lot, but this has given us a very, very small roll. Now let's talk about the feet that are made to create the tiny rolls.

Okay, this is a rolled hem foot and this one is 1/16. I bought this because I had a girl come to see me. a bride who had bought Reem Acra a very expensive designer dress and had an incredibly small he and was very afraid that someone would put too big a role on the edge of him, which is a very, very valid fear, so I bought it to see if maybe, although I had never cared for the rolled hem attachment, I wanted to have everything I could in my arsenal to give it the tightest roll possible and I wanted to see if that would actually make the roll tighter.

I think I ended up abandoning this and went ahead and continued using my left invisible zipper foot, but I want to show this just for those of you who just have it in your head. use this foot and if you know you're going to lose points or something, I want to show you how to use these things, the main thing I don't like about this is that it has this little pin in it. all the rolled feet see that little bit like right there it's very difficult to get close, come on, if you pull too far back that will snag your fabric.

I've gotten some hems caught on these before and I just can't afford to do that, especially if you're working on a $10,000 dress for crying out loud, so I'll show it to you anyway just to smile and laugh, and also because I want this to be with this video. in history as the most complete video of him on the Internet because what I want to learn about something I'm interested in is to learn everything about it, a little bit obsessive about it and a lot of you are like that, look, I don't know. So I just want to go ahead and show you this because I know I would get questions about it.

Anyway, what they say is that you should go ahead and do some of this without the foot just to get started, which never made any sense to me.I think if you're going to do that, just go all the way, but anyway, then you take the fabric and you lift it up on the zipper foot, um, it's separated, oh boy, the rolled hem foot, give it a wedgie. , you see we're going to put a wedgie on him, go back to the band camp days and give him a wedgie, so you'll stand up and watch this little twisted curl form. rotate it a little bit, so then you're going to give it a pull back to lock it into your previous aspect that you put there, okay, so you're going to lift it up, hold this down, lift this up and if you get this. perfect angle the rolled hem foot gods will come down from the clouds and give you fruit or something, that's what they say, I'm telling you, okay, so watch it spin nicely again, we're building tension and I'm going to try to learn with this fabric as I go and I've seen I need to change my angle a little bit down okay a lot of tension this hand is pulling this way this hand is pulling this way a lot of tension I'm letting the accessory, turn the fabric, which really works until it's not right, so as you can see, I have a nice tight roll back here, it looks beautiful, but sometimes it doesn't, you'll see that I personally just feel like I have more control, ah, it's starting to not work.

I personally feel like I have more control when I roll it by hand. The other thing to note is that this is a silk fabric sample and it's cut

perfectly

straight, okay? You're not always going to understand that when you do it with it, as you may or may not know that they come notoriously crooked from the manufacturer, so let me show you what happens, so this is wonderful, okay, and then for some reason , He stopped. Now I'll tell you what I see a lot of people do, they'll do this and then they'll go through with their app serving apps, they'll go through and cut to the very edge of the scene and then they'll go through it again by hand with a roll.

I do not understand that. I wonder why you don't do that the first time. I don't know if this works for you. Do it, okay, everyone. I have to do what they have to do, okay, I just don't care and you can see why, I just did a really horrible job, right? I mean, maybe if I did it this way every day I'd be amazing at it. I'm sure it would get better, but for me it's just not worth it, it's literally not faster or better, which is why I choose this: do what makes you happy and what makes your girlfriends happy, so now I'm going to move .

Let's move on to the

troubleshooting

part. Well, how many of you raised your hands? How many of you, instead of experiencing this, how many of you pulled this out of your sewing machine? These things, oh come on, they have to do it. You would have done this like a thousand times we are all right yeah I see you most of you are like hitting your computers yeah this is what happens to me what is wrong why why do you pass on this beauty to this horrible example of sewing? Well, I can almost guarantee that when you get this look, if you were to undo this, you'll almost always have a little curve.

Look, there's almost always a little curve in your fabric, it's not

perfectly

straight, well, that's your problem, so when you get this mess, you undo it, press it. leave it flat, find the curve, straighten that curve and then sew it better, so that's the easy way when you have a fabric that has the perfect grain and for some reason it was just a little sagging or something. Easy fix, however, there are times when when you hold the fabric up, the edge appears to be perfectly straight and there is a problem in the grain of the fabric, so you actually have to sew the crooked edge to make it straight. as it falls.

Okay, so when that happens, I'm going to show you how to deal with it before you go in, you know, when you open this up and cut that extra piece out, you want to make sure that it doesn't fall into this category or when the bride puts on the dress. The shot itself will look like you have it perfectly straight, but she puts it on and it will go up a little bit in that spot and it will look too short in that spot and everyone will look at you like you did. something's wrong on purpose or something so anyway let's talk about the fabric not being perfectly green and how we handle it okay so we'll start sewing here and we'll get to this curve and the fabric is not a perfect example because the grain of this fabric is straight, okay, but just stick with me here, so what you're going to want to do is as you sew, you're going to want to curve your fabric, you're going to work with the curve as you sew. thing like that instead of pulling directly on the grain and letting all this excess wrinkle, let's do this, see how that makes this part a lot flatter and this is wrinkled, that's what we're going to do, okay, let's do it? curve and sometimes it's a big curve, do you feel like you're in a circle?

Look how much curve we have. I'm rocking. I'm rocking. It's okay, but I don't get those ugly little ones. Rumplestiltskin and my rolled hem here we go oh my god we're about to complete this curve without a bang okay that doesn't always happen so bad this scenario is so bad but I want to show you this because this happens all the time. Well, a lot of times I find tutorials online, everything is pretty perfect and it's not real, so you're left with the demo that they gave you with all the perfect elements, the fabric is cut perfect, the machine.

It's new, the seamstress has a manicure and she drives the Ferrari, I mean, come on, okay, so you go into the real world and you have your broken machine and I don't know, you drive your normal little middle-class car. because after all we are skilled workers and you have your curvy fabric that wasn't cut green at the factory and it's not your fault and all that and then you have to figure out how to make it work and you're left I'm thinking what's wrong with me, for that this little role model, perfect seamstress, does this so perfectly and now I can't do it right, you know? and you start blaming yourself, that's also what I hate about store bought patterns.

By the way, if you call the company when you have problems with the employer, you know that very often they will say, "Oh, that's a mistake." We wanted to say this and it makes me very sick because you know there are seamstresses everywhere. like blaming themselves and they're ready to stop selling and they think there's something wrong with them and I just can't understand it and all that's not them, it's the bosses company, so it's the same thing, it's not you, this isn't The problem is that this was the way the fabric was cut or the way the fabric was woven, it was out of your control, but we are the ones who have to do damage control, so anyway, after sewing this, what you have left when you sew it. correctly it is as you can see, we don't have an ugly ruffle, we do it, it's amazing, it worked very well, there are no ugly wrinkles, but what it will look like when the bride is standing, she will look like a little bit. of a steering wheel look now this is unpressed and you saw how twisted it was and you can see how good it looks without pressing when you press it you're still going to press it with that curve okay that way you're not pressing any kink in your edge and the dress can just fly nice and pretty, this is how you're going to do it this is not what you do this had the same degree of curvature the way this example I made sure it was consistent because I like it I said, I want, I want reality for you and I want you to bang your head against the wall, a bunch of falsehoods, okay, here it is soon with this other technique and I will show you this also with a real life example. a dress and it had a rolled hem, but it had a little bit of horsehair braid trim, which is really no different than you, you just add the horsehair braid as you sew, like you just stack it and roll it up. over the mane brain border is very, very simple to do and I'm actually going to do a tutorial on mane braids soon and that will cover all of that, so if you're watching this new, that tutorial isn't posted yet. you're watching this somewhere in the future, go to my hemming playlist and you'll see how to make a horsehair braid cut with a rolled hem and it'll be on the tool.

I think that's how I'll do it. it's going to be very similar to how you would sew it or kansai it, so anyway I'll show you real quick the real life example I had just this week of a really bad curve on a dress that ended up being just pretty. little flower, so we'll go over that, okay, let's fix a drop in it, let's fix the problem a little bit more, okay, this is kind of a mess. I ended up sewing and what I did was I knew it was hanging right when I held it straight so I went ahead and unrolled it and just made a single roll to where the edge was right.

I pressed it and then let it sit for a few hours. I really wanted to train the fabric. Hear this. It's the way you should go, so after it rested for a few hours I came back, undid those stitches and sewed it back up. You can see how much better it is, of course it's not perfect on the inside, but on the outside it looks really great. Well it really isn't that bumpy so let me tell you why we have this problem. If you look at the fiber details of the fabric, you can see that on one of them they come in one direction and on the other side they come inwards. on the other and they crash right where that blue star is, so it really looks like a fall when you spread the fabric out, but like I said, when it covers it was fine, so it's almost like you were sewing on the green and then suddenly it was on the bias and then it was on the grain again, this is what it felt like, this is what it looks like on the outside and you press that curve just like we did with the other fabric and now you can see it just looks like a nice ruffle so you just have You have to try to make it look cool on the outside and deal with whatever hand you have.

Now let's go to the ironing board and see the details of how to work with it. this curve rolled it because you'll see it quite often, so I'll show you how they press. First I'll show you my little guy, my little jacked up guy, just nice and jacked up, okay? I can see how we still have all this mess, but I pressed it into a curve to make it look better than you definitely don't want to do with this number, you do a terrible thing, you need to be straight, uh, I'm going to force you. you force yourself to be straight, oh, you messed up, I can see them doing this right now, uh, this girl has to marry him directly, okay, and that's really ugly, but I mean, come on, you've done it 50 times, OK?

I did this 50 times before I figured out what was wrong, try to save yourself some pain, okay this is how you really want to handle it, press that carbon and then let it flap, yeah I hope this helped you please like and share. and subscribe, press the bell, which is right next to the subscribe button and that way you will receive a notification every time I upload a new video. I try to make videos twice a week. You know, sometimes I can't post two videos a week, but I really try to do that for you guys, so it's a common complaint right now on YouTube that people don't get notifications.

If they press that bell, they will receive a notification. You can also always visit my Bridal Sewing Techniques channel and see what the latest news is. upload is um if you have any questions leave them in the comments below and I'll be happy to help you with them if I can yeah I think that's it let me know if there's anything else you want to see and what you're struggling with. with in your sewing room