How To Repair WATER DAMAGED DRYWALL CEILING- Step by Step

Okay, so we have a little project here. I'm going to guide you. They had a leak in the roof. They are putting the house on the market. So they just want me to

repair

what needs to be

repair

ed. a hole in it so I can put my finger through it, basically, you see the

water

stains, the roof has been fixed well, so I'm going to use my six inch taping knife and my mud pan to catch any debris. Scrape off the loose layer and see how strong the

drywall

is underneath. I mean, it's pretty obvious that there is a small weak spot that I'll have to cut out and replace, but again, like I said at the beginning, the owners in the video are putting the house on the market, they want it fixed up right but they don't want to go broke, so I'm going to try to accommodate that, but once I start looking into this, it is what it is, uh, this has been fixed before.

We have a piece of fiberglass mesh tape that you can see the joint compounds are not even attached. I would have to assume they used an all-purpose joint compound on the first coat per the manufacturer's specifications. Always use a setting type compound for the first coat over fiberglass mesh tape is crucial or the tape will fail immediately, okay that's pretty soft, it's getting bigger, good thing the roof is dry , so I don't have to worry about it leaking again. or something, I'm just going around to see how far I'm going to need to cut this

drywall

.

The nice thing is there's a beam on that side and then on the other side, I'll just have to do it. Put a furring strip on it, so what I'm going to do is go out to the truck and grab it. I have a little piece of half inch drywall and a furring strip and my square of drywall and I'm going to trace. Take out a piece and cut everything right, so I'm determining where I want this new piece of drywall to go, so I'm going to go all the way here and I've got another stud here, it's actually a truss.

Right now I have something to hold on to, so this is just a furring strip from a repair, so I'm just going to move the repair over something, it looks pretty solid, so I'm going to make it work here, so I want to go 17 be sure to hit the subscribe button if you want to see more of these types of videos 17 and a quarter by 25. you want to cut a furring strip four inches longer than the 25 inches to overlap the furry Strip both sides of the existing drywall. What I'm going to do first is two factory edges and if I put them in the repair it's going to turn into a lot more mud work so I'm going to cut the factory edge.

Outside of which is the tapered edge, I want to go about four inches from the top and mark the back. Now we can select our options, so we want to go to 25, actually it's 25 and 8. I'm going to continue with that, so I just need to get to 17 and a quarter it doesn't have to be exact because we're going to make a cut in the

ceiling

to be exact. What I like to do is make a mark on one end and then I go to make a mark connecting this to the

ceiling

that way I know which way the board goes let me know in the comments what type of drywall project you're on working, I'm just going to trace it, it will fit perfectly, so I've already cut out the

damaged

drywall with a jigsaw and a razor blade, then you want to remove any of the drywall screws left in the framing members and then you always want to replace the existing drywall around the perimeter whenever possible.

What I'm going to do is cut this furring strip. We have a length measurement of 25 inches. I'm going to add 2 inches to each side, so I'm going to cut it about 30 inches, no need. Be exact, give it a little more. I'm going to continue outside and cut this to keep the dust down. Okay, we're going to lay down the fern strip and overlap it on both sides to secure the drywall I'm using an inch. and a quarter of coarse thread drywall screws that are made for attaching drywall to wood. Also, the gun I'm using is a Dewalt 12 volt impact driver.

It is a small and compact drill that is amazing. Once you have the drywall in place, you can tell where the wood is. is where you need to fix the drywall with just the screws into the existing drywall. I'll leave links in the description to all kinds of different drywall and texture videos. Mix up some mud, uh, 20 minute mud and use some Fiberfuse drywall tape. like a mat this is the best tape for repairs so I'm going to fill these spaces and place the fiber fuse using my 12 inch knife to cover a lot of area quickly got 20 minute mud.

I mixed the 20 minute mud a little thick. so I can fill these spaces and it's not too thick, so I'm going to flatten it with my six inches. I'm basically putting mud on the repair. I'm not trying to make it pretty. I need some bedding to put the fiber-fused drywall tape on, then I'll apply the tape and then smooth it all out again. I'm going to place the tape in place and then cut it with my knife once it's up. it goes from the middle out and then just break it with your knife, same thing from the middle, this tape fuses as one with the super strong joint compound with the setting type compound, 20 minute mud that I'm using from the middle in the middle of from the middle from the middle I'm going to take my 12 inch knife and I'm going to float it out I want it to be as flat as possible so here I'm using a Milwaukee heat gun it's made for drying things it gets hot a lot, so you have To keep it moving a lot of times, when I go to do a repair like this, I need to do it in a day, so if you play your cards right, use the right kind of mud.

I used a 20 minute setting compound. I'm just going to speed up the process a little with the heat gun. I won't keep her in one place for long. I'm just going to give it a little heat to make the compound shoot a little faster. I'll leave a link to my Amazon store that has all the tools I use in my videos including Fiberfuse drywall tape and Milwaukee heat gun. Okay, so I mixed up the 20 minutes. I'm going to need to add some mud over where the daylight comes in. It's here on both sides, let me know in the comments if you're a DIY contractor painter, I'm just curious.

This is a 20 minute quick set mud, so I'm just going to blend the edges while I wait. this for drying is semi set up so I'm just going to blend it with a damp cloth, it's just a damp cloth just to blend the edges. You want to do this while it's not quite set, but also not too wet if you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments section below. It's like a circular movement. Make sure you hit the thumbs up button if you like these videos, so it's dry. It's probably been about 20 minutes since I came in. off, it is dry to the touch, meaning it takes a little longer, so this is a chemical reaction rather than air drying.

I'm going to go around and hit these ridges so the mud doesn't stick when it comes. back and mud this time again, it's time to apply a thin coat to the roof repair. I will use an all-purpose joint compound using the five gallon buckets that have a dark green lid. 12 inch tape and all-purpose joint compound I added. a little bit of

water

just to get the air pockets out and make it creamier I'm going to fill in the sides that need a little mud like this, like this, like this, uh, I don't know what it is, but the cats are never very happy with me.

When I'm working on your house, okay, since this last skim coat was with all-purpose joint compound, I'm going to let it dry overnight because I prefer to skip the test texture over the dry joint compound. The next morning I let it dry overnight because I used all-purpose joint compound to do the final skim coat, since all-purpose dries harder and more consistently than hot mud, so before doing the texture of Skip test, I followed up with a damp cloth and just knocked down the little edges along the perimeter that way it will be a good match with the original texture.

What I'm going to do now is hit it with a trowel. I'm going to use my 14 inch Taping Knife to apply the mud from the paddle, so what I'm going to do is just put a strip of probably an inch on the end of the taping knife, there's not a lot of mud that you want to keep, You know, not too much. You'll have to drag it a few times to get it to work. If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments section below. Once I upload this video, I'm going to go to the comments and answer like As many questions as I can, I'm going to go back and blend it all together where it meets the existing roof again.

I'm barely putting pressure on the 14 inch taping blade when I'm pulling, I'm not putting much pressure on it, I'm letting the joint compound and sand do the work and I'm also sensing where the snot is grabbing so I can add a couple of taps and it's all going to blend together when you knock it down so so I just blend it down to nothing with the existing so it's not going to be a good spot so I'm going to go the opposite way to knock it down press slightly towards left, lift to the right and avoid lines forming. coming out of the texture, so next I want to drop to the ground and check it out from there and see what happens if you're 6-2, you can just hit the ceiling without getting back up, just hit any guy and also blend in. so okay, knock it down in the same direction as I did before.

I recommend applying a spot primer to the ceiling repair and new texture and then repainting the entire ceiling to keep everything nice and consistent. I like to use a Zinzer latex primer one two three and your favorite flavor of latex paint for the ceiling and if you want to check out the next video or any of my upcoming videos be sure to hit the subscribe button now in the center the screen to keep up to date with all my videos, follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and tick tock. I'll leave some of my most popular video links below in the description.

Thanks so much for looking.