How to Repair Damage on your Car! Rattle can on 30K Car

Hey guys, Matt from Orr is sterically

repair

ing a scratch on a bumper, as you can see it's a big scratch. I'll show you how you can sand it down so friend Rajesh will repaint this section of the bumper and we're done. mixed so that they all look perfect, we are not going to do this on a cheap car, it is actually quite an expensive transport valued at about 30,000 euros, but be prepared to be perfect and you won't even notice that it was done right, so for this

repair

. You will need a couple of cans of paint, this is a high thickness primer, this is the color of the real car and this is to take care of the transparent core that we will give shine to.

You'll also need a couple sheets of 180 grit and 80 grit sandpaper and a sheet of 600 grit sandpaper. Well, to start this process we'll also use our 180 grit sandpaper on a sander block. I'm just going to sand the area and try to smooth it out as much as we can before putting on body filler. It's very important when sanding plastic like this that you don't sound too aggressive or use too aggressive grades of sandpaper if we were to use egret sandpaper. We would have over-roofed this, in fact we would have destroyed the plastic and made it harder to paint over, but using the 180 grit sandpaper smoothes out a lot of the

damage

, it hasn't actually

damage

d any more paint well, so now We're going to mix up some body filler to cover this.

This is the body filler I'm going to use to mix it up, you just lay down a flat piece of body filler about an inch high and then you spread the hardener from one side of the fillers to the other. I think the biggest mistake people make when working on the body of their car is that they put too much feather on the body. This is more of the body filler you always can. Layer more, but I would say start with a light feather layer. I'm just working on the outline of the bumper trying to get a smoother finish as it will sound less complicated that way.

It is perfect. example of the way the fillings should be placed, it's already super soft, so we've already done 90% of the work. We're not going to sand this all day or anything, a lot of people just put on too much body filler. and then it means that they are sanded and sanded and when there is no need to put as much where I am it is quite cold so I would say if it is less than ten degrees where you are and depending on where you are doing the work you can use a hot Cohen just to give it give

your

body a quicker chance to dry, okay, so the body filler is hard to know, if you check it with

your

fingernail, if it doesn't leave an imprint on the body feathers, it's done. my sandpaper on the sanding block.

I'm just going to try to hold the ship through the impact process and with the egrets and pepper I'm making a conscious attempt not to sand the raw area of ​​the bumper where Noah's body feathers are. I just want to sand the feathers on the body with 80 grit sandpaper because if we start with Sun and outside of that area, we'll actually put more scratches on the bumper that we would have to remove later. Now we got the basic shape there with the 80 grit sandpaper. We're going to move on to 180 to start removing these scratches and smoothing everything out, getting it ready for priming.

It's worth taking a little time when using their 180 grit just to perfect the feathers and give it a look. as best as you can, no humpstor gaps or no high or low spots while on the edge, a trained pen, the edge is fine, so we smoothed it out completely with the 180 grit sandpaper, now it's super smooth and it's ready for primer let's start masking the bumper now getting it ready for primer this RDA six has a lot of sharp body lines and spray painters and body guys love these body lines for example they have a little chip the bottom of this door.

Probably if you took it to a body shop, they would say it would spray the entire door, whereas in reality it would probably just pay this fire like this body line here, so that's what we're going to do with On the front popper, we're going to use the body lines in our favor so as not to have to paint a huge area. I'm just going to use some gray material, right, I'm just going to rough out the area around it. and in case the primer falls a little further than we need, that's okay, so we cut it all shredded.

Now we're going to apply the primer, we're just going to focus on this area where the body filler and scratches were. the outside edge again, if you are in colder areas you can heat it with a heat gun just to get a nice warm environment. I put three coats of primer on and as you can see after each court I tested it with the hot corn, but as you can see it looks nice and smooth. Wait for it to harden. It will probably take about half an hour. The primer feels very rough on the edge, which means it's nice and dry.

It's ready for Santa with our 800 grit sandpaper. Use a little water just to help smooth it out. I'm just going to clean it up using some blue paper. It's also a good time to try to get water out of all these little cracks if you have some compressed air, blow and blow. everything at this point, after you have applied the primer, everything should look very smooth, there should not be any damage visible through the primer, it should look nice and dull, also where you have sanded it with 800 grit sandpaper , is a good key. for the base coat that will go on top and also where the mix in the base color will go, I have some masking tape and I folded it so that there is a soft edge where the trapped base meets. the original paint is fine so now it's the color stage which is the color of the actual car this is what i have mixed it is the wire which you can usually find in the owner's manual or sometimes it is in a set under the engine bay if you go to an auto parts store they put it in a camp it's pretty cheap.

I think this was around 10 years or maybe 12 dollars. I put two coats on there, it looks a little patchy now, but after two coats, especially with metallic paint. We're going to give this a chance to dry for about five minutes and then we're going to put in a third core, you might even need four quarters, especially with the metallic ones, they can be quite transparent and can fall into the courts to get good coverage. They looked great, the color also matches perfectly, now we will let it dry for about 10 minutes and then we will do a light corn call.

We are ready for the clear core process. Now this is the light corn. I'm going to use a 2k clear spray with superior gloss and scratch resistant finish. Go and finish. It has a small activator at the bottom. Pull the actual activator 2 to release the hardener. Once you activate it, you probably have about 40 hours to use it. all of this can be like this so if you have some jobs to do on your car you need to do two more in 40 hours because this also has 2k clarity. I would also recommend wearing a mask, you don't want this to happen to you. stuff in your lungs I'm just going to use what's called a tack cloth, this will pick up any little bits of dirt or smaller debris that might fall on the panel, especially with the clear, you want to have a spotless panel before you start painting.

You can see that there are already some little bits of dirt in the engine. Look at the shine on this and that's it with one spray. I keep telling people that you don't need a spray gun to spray your car, especially for small repairs like this. as good as a professional finish, it has a nice deep shine and it's something you can do at home, it's pretty easy, okay, it removes all the masking. I just opened the garage door to let in more light, as you can see, there is the end result. that's where the damage was down here that's all repaired there now that's pretty easy to repair and you can do it at home it didn't cost a lot of money and thanks for watching