How I upgraded my garage floor (HUGE Difference)

Hi, I'm Glenn and today we're going to make this

floor

look a lot better. The best part is that it is so simple that you don't even need many skills to do this, we don't need many tools, let's do this. so I spent a lot of time trying to find a perfect solution for this base when I originally built the cabinets on the back wall I saw some comments saying I should epoxy this

floor

while considering that in some ways the obstacle really kept me away from that option, although I like to finish this space. I work on this between projects so I do it when I get the chance now as you can see the

garage

floor has paint on it and I didn't want to do it. go through the trouble of removing this now, I'm not sure if the original painting was done during the construction of the house or not, but I personally don't want to go through that phase again, so after looking at many options, I have set up Lo I'll be laying on the Husky PVC floor, which I'll be installing in this video, but before we get started you need to do some prep work.

While inspecting the floor I noticed there was some type of fabric or shreds sticking out through the paint, I'm not sure if this fell off while they were painting the floor or they just painted right over it. The good thing is that I don't epoxy the floor because otherwise I would have to remove it, possibly sand it and I definitely don't like that there used to be a safety bollard here that would prevent cars from entering the water heater. I removed it when I finally installed the cabinets, but now I need to remove the bolts. I decided to use a hacksaw to cut into the bolt enough to hit it with the hammer and finish breaking it.

I want the tile to be as close to the wall as possible based on its rating. He wanted to clean everything that was in his way, even if it meant removing something. Of the stucco sticking out of the floor, I also looked around for anything that could lift the tile or create a hump, while this place isn't that bad, I walked around and looked for areas that might have a sinkhole. To top this off, I mix in some bondo and flatten it out after about 20 minutes. I went over it with a sander. Now I have the apartment in a state that I am happy with.

It's time to clean it now that the floor is free of debris. This is a good time to take a measurement and lay the tiles. In fact, I'm going to take three measurements, one toward the front, the middle, and near the back, so these measurements will tell me how accurate the

garage

is from the front to the front. back I had about an inch

difference

from the front to where I took my third measurement, knowing this will let me know to make custom cuts towards the end. I'm going to take the measurement closest to the garage, find the center. of that and make a mark on the garage floor.

I would also find the center of the two areas I measured from front to back and then double check these two indications with the first one I marked just to see how they line up. Once I confirm the center of the garage, then I'm ready to roll, I measure one of the tiles to find the center, then place the mark on it and line it up with the first indication I made toward the garage door entrance. now I'm going to keep that tile in the center and start branching outwards. The tiles have an interconnecting system, so as long as you line them up you can use a mallet and hammer them.

Now it is recommended that you use a rubber mallet. Don't use a hammer now. I'll continue connecting tiles until I get as far to the edge as I can. Typically, you will install the tile and then come back and install the trim kit. In this case, I will start with the mosaic in the exact position I want the final result to be, so I will place the trim now and move it until I get to the right spot and then begin the rest of the installation with the trim kit installed . and the first row tile is in the exact position I want it to be, which is about an inch from the edge of the slab.

Then I'll measure both sides to make sure I have the same distance on each side now to start the rest. From this, I'm going to install the first tile in the second row in the center and work it in as far as I can, so for a quick tip, be careful when opening a box of tiles. Because you can easily mark the top of them, I'm not sure why they didn't flip the tile this way when you cut the box, you're not cutting the visible side. I like where I'm going so far. I lined up across the front and now I also lined up across the middle.

I'm going to work from the middle and just do that whole side. I'm going to leave the perimeter until the end, but then I'm going to go to this side of the center and move up to the wall as well and we'll see how we do it, let's go once you get to the point I'm at now, the instructions. I say you should go from one side to the other and go to the back, but I was watching my water heater and I thought I would go to the side and go to that side because I needed to get the heater out so I could put the tile underneath and to be Of course, I had no problems with this method.

It seems like either one would have worked. I wanted to see a lot of progress as I went, so I decided to work on two. rows at a time installing two tiles as I went, I was double checking to make sure I wasn't creating air pockets under the tile I was installing or in the previous row, this was a good indication that the tiles were going down flat and the row was straight now as I made my way to the water heater I was ready to drain it so I could move it out of the way I put the hose on and turned on the valve and there was nothing in the valve either clogged or just not working I didn't want to get stuck in this, so I decided to turn around and finish the tiles to finish the perimeter of the floor.

I need to cut an entire tile and in order to do this and make it at least almost exact, this is what I did. I measured from the inside of the interlocking section of the tile already installed on the wall. Once I have that number, I will subtract a quarter inch and then measure the tile being installed. Cut and measure from the outside of the interlocking section and place a mark. In this case, I am taking two measures. If my first measurement is on the left side of the installed slab, I will place the mark on the left side of the slab so it will be cut.

I will do this for both sides of the slab. Now to cut the slabs, all you need is a knife and a ruler, depending on how sharp your blade is. You can do it pretty quickly. The market method I use seems to work. It came out great so I'm still using it and to speed things up I'll take all the measurements and markings for this side, then cut it all out at once and no steps will be skipped here. I will work this tile all the way under the cabinet and up to the wall and luckily once I get to the back of this wall I can remove the pieces that were cut from the sides and install them here once I get to this section of the garage.

I made an executive decision to reduce the space around the door entrance so it's not as visible, so at this point I tried running water through the heater, but it won't come out, so it looks like I have a drain plug here and I want to try to avoid replacing that because I found that it can be a challenge to replace them so basically I'm going to try to dig into this and see if I can remove some of the debris that's inside so hopefully I don't. get too wet right now I have this tarp here so that water doesn't get under the towel because I couldn't drain it.

I thought about replacing it with a tankless water heater, but after doing some research I just don't do it. I have the right circuit in this area, so I'll leave it alone and let that be a future thing for now. I have to figure out how to get this to drain. I tried using a cloth hanger but I guess I couldn't get it. I passed the ball into the valve, so to catch you up, I managed to use my air compressor to push up and alleviate that and a bunch of stones came out of this water heater, I guess that just shows it.

How dirty, the water comes from the city supply, so I think I cleaned it. Now I'm going to connect my hose to this thing and just drain it, so now I hear the water coming out of the heater, so you're doing pretty good, I'm just going to drain this and then I'm going to try to lift it without taking it out, so I'm just going to drain it and I'll see if I can pick it up and just get under it. with the towel if you are doing this you need to turn off the breaker turn off the water and disconnect the water line or call a plumber because I have flexible water lines and I don't have plumber's putty on hand I see there is something on the threads of the line of water, I don't want to remove the water lines unless I really have to.

Once I got all the water out of the heater I was able to lift this up so I could work under it. Mission accomplished now. put this back in place, turn on the water, turn on the heater and make sure to keep the valve open to get all the air out of the line and I'm done here. I thought about how I want to finish the front and decided to keep it simple by going in a straight line when I first started this installation. I noticed that the trim kit was not flat on the floor and over time it seems to flatten out.

Now I'm going to keep an eye on this edge and if it becomes a problem, I'm going to take a liquid nail, run it over and hold it down permanently, aside from the heavy toolbox and water heater, which I had nowhere else to put. I kept the floor weight free for 48 hours, allowing everything to settle and stretch. Considering this is the floating floor, one of the things I was worried about was what would happen to the floor once you put weight on it and the answer is nothing, for a second I thought this would bubble up like I'm pushing weight on it. carpet but no it's amazing how a new floor can transform the space with the same things in this space the painted floor was a

huge

distraction from everything else I was changing and even with the floor done my eyes moved up and now.

I see a new distraction here, which is the wall, the baseboard area. Now I'm possibly being nitpicky, but I'll feel empty if I don't address this now as much as I wanted to. I had to make a trip to Go find some PVC trim, this will not only hide the ugly area of ​​the wall but will also hide the edge of the tile making it look a little more professional as I am dealing with a block wall of concrete. Nails won't work here, so I'll have to use liquid nail to attach this to the wall. I apply the liquid nail favoring one side of the PVC trim and that's because the wall is tapered so it tapers towards the bottom and would now be wasted.

I think the correct way to do this is to fill the bottom so you have a flat, straight surface from top to bottom. You can fill it with stucco or you can tear thin strips of wet wood, but you know how expensive wood is these days. so I challenge you, I also didn't want this to become a big project and I didn't need this to be an eyesore and if this fails in the future I will just remove it and apply more fluid now for additional detail. about this please refer to the article written on my website diycreators.com, so I still have more work to do here.

I'm delighted with how the floor turned out and really felt like it improved the space a lot, but as I say I'm working on this between projects so it's going to be a slow process but I'll have you finish the results once I'm done here.