How i turbo’d my civic for $300 and kept a/c. (On a budget, Detailed walkthrough).

oh my lanta that sounds so awesome welcome to texas on the channel if you're new here definitely consider subscribing so i spent a total of 249.93 on the intercooler pipe register manifold and adapter plate to adapt the td05h

turbo

. Now I have this

turbo

for commercial work I did so it didn't cost me any money out of pocket, I basically painted a subscriber's car and he gave me this and some cash. This line here was absolutely free from a friend jeremy, thanks jeremy located here in Texas really appreciates giving me this line and some other couplers and stuff like that, so basically the turbo and the line were free.

I spent, I think it was like 10 dollars to do this, it was probably less than ten dollars to do this. This will go well, so what you're seeing on the screen is the information you'll need to build your own T-piece. If you want to go that route, it's a lot cheaper than buying them. You can get it at Ace Hardware. Home Depot or stores like that, basically you'll have three female ends on an eighth and then you'll have a male eighth that screws into one of the points and that's exactly what I did here and it works perfectly fine where the oil is.

The pressure sensor is a low pressure sensor that's going to go here this is going to go into the block and then the oil feed line is going to come in here and that just goes and screws into the back of your block so basically we're going to go ahead and install All this. I know I'm still missing the Hondata S 300, which is the preferred ECU for me. I have some 525cc injectors that a subscriber sent me. Blackmoon Builds. Thanks for sending me that and the purge valve. I'll use that purge. valve since I didn't buy one, that didn't come with one, so I'm using that purge valve.

So far this is the cheapest turbo kit I've ever had and it should work pretty well so I'm going to go ahead and install it and see exactly what we're missing and then we'll go from there so I'll remove the bumper. Fortunately I have quick releases. I'm going to undo these pieces and take the front bumper. Remove the intake pipe and exhaust and then we'll go over the intercooler kit and I'll show you all the details, so you'll need to remove the manifold. Some of these collectors have already been replaced. mainly on honda you always find one with aftermarket headers but that will help you in that case but if you have a completely factory manifold like this these bolts can be difficult to remove so you will need a spray with a pb blaster or some vest line or something to remove rust, you will have to disconnect the O2 sensors that way you won't get caught on them, so the first thing you want to do is remove those two sensor connectors and just let them hang from the blocks now, Here you have a place where there are bolts that hold it to the block.

These are already removed in this one. I'm going to go ahead and remove the nine 12 millimeter bolts and then we'll go under the car and remove the ones we need down there now that I've got the bolts removed up here I'm going to go ahead and focus my attention on the underside of the manifold, so Now we are under the car, this is the downpipe where it connects to what would be a catalytic converter, in my case it is a test tube, there is a 12 millimeter one here and a 14 millimeter one here, you will remove the 12 and the 14 and then this will come loose and usually Right here is a bracket that has two 12 millimeter nuts holding it to the engine.

I've already removed it in the past, so I'll go ahead and remove the two 12's and the 214's now that you've removed those bolts. You can go ahead and lower the manifold now that we have it removed. We have enough room to fit the turbo and turbo manifold and make sure everything fits pretty well to fit the register and see how it works. It looks like everything is bolted together pretty well, so that's definitely the right manifold. Now that we've teased the manifold, we know it fits. Let's go ahead and grab the adapter. We are going to install it now.

It came with a gasket, so let's put that in first, so here's the gasket now. I'm glad they sent me one of these versus the crush style ones because these metal ones are much better and don't blow out almost as easily, so I'm going to use this Permatex thread locker right here on the studs, this will keep them from blowing out. pull out back as we drive down the road. It works pretty well now for this part I will use a washer. and then a lock washer plus the bolt that way they won't come loose from vibration.

Now that we have everything broken in, we're going to go ahead and test it on the car, so it turns out it's hitting right here. I'll just have to polish this piece and it should fit fine, so it'll be there, it's very very close to the AC compressor so I may have to get an aftermarket downpipe, just to make it a little narrower. but overall technically it fits, I just have to make some modifications, so now let's look at the intercooler kit, so this is the intercooler kit, this is the tube that goes straight to the throttle, this is where the blower comes out.

The shut off valve goes, we'll use some gasket sealant around this as it doesn't come with the o ring which will work perfectly fine to seal the purge valve. Now if I run a lot of boost I will have to get a real gasket but for five to ten quid it will be fine yes it came with all the pipes and they are wrinkled black a nice little layer on them its really nice because it has some rows Pretty thick with good cooling fins, so this will really work. really good at pulling hot air down pretty well, so we're going to mount this to the front of the car with these mounting tabs.

We'll just drill holes and use bolts in these. I'll eventually end up making brackets and welding. Put them in the car, but for now this will work fine, the method we're going to use, so let's start putting this all right so that the intercooler pipe here has the curve that will go like this. I will adapt it here using the clamps, as long as these are the best type of clamps you can get for a turbo system, they are very strong and hold very well. Now I'm going to go ahead and grab the couplers that are there.

The appropriate size and fit them together so it looks good now we'll go ahead and do the passenger side and make a mockup of the intercooler. Here is the pipe that will have the purge valve. so I put the couplers and the clamps on, it will fit up here on the throttle, so I found a light. I'm going to use these allen screws and put the purge valve in right now. The valve is in this is all tight. I'll focus here and connect the bottom of the intercooler pipe. Good. I already connected it. Now we will move to the front.

This is basically what it will look like once you drill the holes. on the top of the support bar and then there will be bolts that hold it on and then we can mount the driver's side so I found two bolts that are actually a decent length that will fit there. These are actually bolts from an air conditioning unit on a

civic

. They work pretty well so let's put them to good use. I finished the driver's side unfortunately the cut video basically just bolted this side up it's pretty smooth and easy as for the bottom of the turbo I still have to make a tube that bolts here to this downpipe flange to go back to the converter catalyst or test tube.

Now here is the oil drain. This is where the oil drains from the turbo and returns to the oil pan. I need to make a high point that way when it drains, it just drains straight, you don't want it to be down because then the oil can back up through it and cause a flow problem, so this is the oil return. That's factory this is where it screws in. Basically, I'm going to cut it right here with a saw and cut this end with a saw that way, it's just a bump sticking out and then I'm going to take the oil pin. drill three holes and screw this thing in there like that once it's screwed in there and once it's screwed in here I'm just going to run a high pressure rubber hose to connect the two of them so I'm going to have to take the crankcase oil out drill some holes gasket seal a few things and we should be ready to continue with the oil return so I already installed the oil drain on the turbo.

I already cut the line so I have two pieces, one is already on the turbo. Now for this piece I'm going to move on. I already cleaned part of the oil pan. I'm going to mark where I want it and then we can take the oil pan, drain all the fluid and drill the holes we need to drill now once you've removed the oil pan, like I do, make sure we have something underneath to catch everything. the oil that will drip, a large drip pan would be preferable, but if you don't have one. just put something down to catch most of the oil it will start to drip slowly so keep in mind that okay this is a really good time to make sure everything is lined up correctly so basically put the thing down making sure everyone the holes are aligned. before you drill because you only get one chance at this and if you screw it up you have to go get another oil pan so make sure all the yellow dots are in the right place and this one isn't so I'm going to go.

Go ahead and move it around a little bit, we'll clean it up later, but we want to reduce the amount of metal shavings that get in here, that way we don't have them circulating in the engine because that will cause the connecting rod bearings to fail, so I'm going to go ahead and drill these holes, there are the drilled holes, everything is lined up absolutely perfect, so now we can clean this up while it's outside and then we'll apply some black gasket former and, uh, bolts. This if my welder wasn't cordless I would actually spot weld these nuts on the back, but I'm out of cord and money so I'm going to really tighten them up.

Tight, I'm going to put some loctite on them, so I'm going to go ahead and clean this up. Put the loctite on these. Putting this all back in and then we'll reinstall it again, so I screwed it in twice. Just to make sure I used Loctite, everything looks good, so now we're ready to put this back on the car. The gasket on the car is pretty new, so I'm going to completely reseal the gasket and then bolt this thing back on. Everything is fine so I connected the oil drain and everything looks good. I painted the oil pan while I was down here.

I thought why not make it look a little better. Everything is tight. All the bolts are in place and that's it. put some oil in it tomorrow so now we'll turn our attention to the oil feed line, here is the CV axle and above the CV axle is the oil filter. Now above the oil filter is this sensor. Here you will now disconnect the single cable. that's on it and you're going to remove this sensor this one is a 24 millimeter so get a 24 millimeter bushing put the 24 millimeter bushing in there and loosen it and this is where the oil feed line will go through this sensor will connect to that oil feed. housing line and I'll show you in a moment okay so here's the T piece this is an 8 male this is a female 8 and this is a female 8 so I have a 3 way female 8 , put an 8 male in and this is the oil sending unit, we'll put some thread tape on it before it's official, but basically you'll just screw it on like this, tighten it, no need to do it outside the car, it's just easier , but, uh, you.

You're going to take this and you're going to screw it into the block, obviously you're going to put some thread tape in there and then the oil feed line that goes to the turbo is going to come out here and go to the turbo and then you're going to plug the sensor back in, that's basically what you should do. look like this after everything is done, I'm going to put the new oil filter in and we're going to put oil in it tomorrow and fire it up good, so I have to trim the bumper here like that so it can bolt on. to the car because here it is touching the intercooler, okay, it's back on, it doesn't look too bad, you can see the intercooler from the back, if I really wanted to sleep, I could paint it black, space here is my problem. very annoying and it's kind of pushing the bumper in a little bit so I'll have to figure that out probably move the intercooler back a little bit and then everything will be fine so it's been raining here it's finally stopped so the Exhaust manifold is nice and rusty, but we did all this.

I went and bought a vacuum line and connected it back here, the back of the intake manifold took it directly to the bleed valve on the turbo. It comes directly from the wastegate to the turbo. Now it's got some oil on it so we're ready to turn it on and see how it sounds, so go ahead and make sure it's not leaking. The ground is wet from the rain, but it sounds good. We have to get an aftermarket gel tube to give us more clearance and that way we can connect it to the rear half of the Yanaka exhaust, but we don't have a boost gauge, but we'll take it to thestreet anyway.

I prefer to have a tune, so if you're going to do this, make sure you get a tune before you drive it all over God's creation. We're running off the wastegate pressure, so it's running through the factory internal wastegate, so it should be like 8 psi. or something like that, I'm not exactly sure but let's go ahead and take it out on the street and see how it does if it blows up guys I'll change it and you guys will have more content but I definitely don't recommend driving it without a booster cage because it's a very bad idea.

I'm going to go on with this for too long but I want to hear that exhaust valve and I want to hear the turbos oh that sounds so good oh I love how that sounds good so here we go let's do it a little oh my lanta that sounds so amazing , yeah, I said, oh my lanta, let's do it again, geez, that turbo sounds absolutely wonderful, oh nice, it sounds great, well I'm impressed with it, I'll let it sit and cool for a minute. um since we don't have the coolant lines connected to the turbo but it should be fine um I have some oil around the feed line I think I'm going to buy a whole new feed line this one was free and will abuse it a little bit but it's pretty easy but definitely get a boost gauge and a hondata s 300 and convert it to obd1 that way we can tune it right because I don't want to screw it up but if it happens it happens but this bleed valve sounds absolutely beautiful so I want to thank Black Moon Builds again for the fantastic sounding bleeder valve and I highly recommend this intercooler kit to anyone who wants to turbo because it's pretty simple.

It's very easy and seems to hold up pretty well, so the link will be in the description. I hope you enjoyed the video. This one has taken me quite a while to make. I have over nine hours of record time, so I'll probably have to edit at least eight hours, so I hope you enjoyed it. I still have a few other things to do, like run the intake pipe with the filter, but I have to get a thin fan before I do that, but we have the air conditioning and the turbo and I'm happy that the automatic worked pretty well, it seems it will change manually so it won't stay that way forever so definitely stay tuned to the channel, subscribe if you haven't already and drop it.

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