How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes | Alex Honnold

My preparations were less exciting. This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker climbing the bottom of El Capitan with an empty backpack. We spent the day climbing together to a specific crack in the middle of the wall that was blocked by loose rocks. This made this part of the climb difficult and potentially dangerous, because any careless step could cause the rock to fall to the ground. And kill a passing climber or hiker. So we carefully removed the stones, loaded them into the bag and slid down the rope. Imagine for a second how ridiculous it would be to climb 1,500 feet of wall just to fill a backpack with rocks. (Laughter) It's never easy carrying a bag full of rocks.

It is more difficult on a slope. It may have been stupid, but it had to be done. I wanted everything to be perfect if I was going to climb the ropeless route. After two seasons of working specifically to climb El Capitan freestyle and solo, I finally finished all my preparations. He knew where every hand and

foot

was the whole way and he knew exactly what to do. In short, I was ready. It's time to climb El Capitan. On June 3, 2017, I woke up early, had my usual breakfast of muesli and fruit, and arrived at the base of the wall before dawn.

I felt safe when I looked at the wall. And I felt even better when I started climbing. After about 500 feet, I came to a slab very similar to the one that gave me so much trouble at Half Dome, but this time it was different. He had explored all options, including hundreds of feet of wall on each side. He knew exactly what to do and how to do it. I had no doubts. I went up easily, taking the right path. Even the difficult and arduous parts passed easily. I was executing my routine perfectly. I rested for a moment before the bouldering stage and then

climbed

it as I had practiced several times with a rope.

My

foot

shot towards the left wall without hesitation and I knew I had done it. Climbing Half Dome was a big goal and I accomplished it, but I didn't get what I really wanted. I have not achieved mastery. I had doubts and fear, and this was not the experience I wanted. But El Capitan was different. With 600 feet to go, I felt like the mountain offered me a chance to win. I

climbed

with extreme precision and enjoyed the sound of the birds circling the rocky slope. Everything seemed like a celebration. I then reached the summit after three hours and 56 minutes of glorious climbing.

This was the climb I had always wanted, this was mastery. Thank you all. (applause)