How to Create Invisible Layers or Internal Layers

Hello friends, Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education at Sam, today we are going to address something that we see becoming a big trend that has been

invisible

for years. We've even heard the term coined ghost

layers

and what the guest is looking for when they ask for this type of thing, well they are looking for the benefit of

layers

which is fullness, texture and movement on the body but what they don't want see is they don't really want to see the layers, so we're going to work on a really neat process that can be used on fine hair, medium hair, thick hair, whoever sits in your chair, but if you're looking for movement, texture, fullness , all those things but you don't want visible layers on the surface, we have a technique that I think you're going to enjoy a lot, so we're going to continue working with a technique like this, which is mainly texturing types of techniques.

Still, it is very important to work in a structured way, one of the things that can happen with a technique. This is especially so, if you go over the same section too many times, you could end up leaving big weak spots or even holes in your haircut, so we want to approach this in a way that has the same kind of intention and purpose behind it. like we would with any other haircut, so we're going to part first the back area of ​​the hair that has all the density, so we're going to part just in front of what we call the horizontal transition where the head starts to change. and round, but what we're really looking for with this part is we want to see where the density of the hair changes so you can see right there where the hairline appears on Lydia, that's where the density is going to change in her hair, like this We'll start by taking vertical sections up from the hairline to again mark where the density changes, then we'll take a horizontal section across the head.

Now the size of this section depends on a few things we would suggest for finer hair or medium hair the sections are a little bigger for thicker hair the sections are a little thinner now with finer hair or medium hair we are looking to make this technique not only to

create

separation but we would also like to

create

some inflation volumes of fullness, so our technique will be from bottom to top and out, so if you think about the principle of short hair and long hair, short hair It tends to be structurally more rigid than long hair, so when we take hair and create short to long, whatever direction the short goes is the way the hair will move, so if I take a section vertical that we are going to do and we cut from the bottom first and work the shorts in this way, that will influence the hair. want to expand outward, so what kind of hair textures do you think will be best for fine to medium hair?

For thicker hair textures, we'll want to do the opposite and want to do smaller sections. because we're going to want to make more small holes inside the hair from top to bottom because what we don't want to do on thick hair is we don't want to create some points here that have a lot of short points. hair because even if we work short from top to bottom we could create an area of ​​so much density of short hair that it creates expansion within that thicker hair. The goal with this type of cut within thicker hair types would be to take smaller ones.

The sections work from top to bottom and by removing less hair in each section with medium to fine hair we are going to do the exact opposite, we want to be a little more deliberate with this hair texture because what we want to create is some short hair strength placed under this long hair to give it something to hold. Now this is not some kind of magic potion. This isn't going to automatically take fine hair and puff it up into something really full and big. and especially if fine hair has less density, it's actually on the thinner side, then we want to be very cautious with this technique because you get too aggressive and you'll leave the ends super thin and wispy, and that's not good either.

So Lydia here has a pretty medium hair texture, she has a good density that we're taking. I would call that a section about an inch and a half thick. Let's introduce the shear. This is the Artist Series Sliding Shear. It's particularly good. For this type of techniques in which we are going to move while cutting, we are going to introduce the shears underneath and we want to look for that natural curvature in the air, if we blow up the hair we will see a natural curvature. and as long as we stay on the outside edge of that natural curve, we shouldn't create any bad breakouts because that shows us where the hair softens under its own weight, so we're going to give it a little bodice that we see right there, so that's where it's going to come in and the technique works from short to long and I'm using a little bit of tension on the hair and a little bit of pressure with that shear again because the sliding shear is so forgiving it's incredibly gentle and is actually designed to naturally push the hair back , so we want to work structurally because we want to leave that piece alone and I'll take the next section that we're working on about a one inch section and then we'll find that curve again that we want to start the same way. place relatively the same place on each strand, but it's okay and actually somewhat beneficial if it's not perfectly the same place on each section now, if there are two sections here and then a section there, that will look a little strange that it will create some imbalance in form, so try to be somewhat consistent, but also accept the fact that you will be somewhat inconsistent because it is beneficial.

Many of you are probably thinking, "Well, I don't have a sliding shear, so how do I do this to find that gap in the next section? I'll take a different shear, more of a regular shear, and show you how." do this with a normal shear, even with the sliding shear because Again, it's a very gentle shear and it's specifically designed to allow the hair to push through. You can see that it has this natural curvature in the blade, even with this we don't want to just. close the blade because it will catch the crease of the hair and could cut off too much hair, so we're just talking about cutting through the mistake, a loose opening and closing as we go through this strand, okay, so let's take the next section. , we want to be consistent with the size of these sections, so Take that inch and a half that we have there, we're just going to continue going up the head through the back area, which is the densest area and it's dense for a couple of reasons, no not only because there is a lower hairline, but even from an appearance. to slim down the donut area around here is naturally predisposed to not slimming down and I forgot one thing before I let go of that section, luckily I can see right where I stopped before you took that section off, take another clip and place it on top. of the section that you just cut because what that does is it helps you know where not to cut, you see how organized we are working, this is something you know you've seen many times, I just take the section and create something short and too long of inside out, there's nothing wrong with that, but if you do it all over your head, it will be difficult to be consistent and you will have areas that will still be thicker and thinner, this will give you the ability to be a little more consistent so I'm going to grab a little shear this is just the five and a half inch aerodynamic shear this is probably the world's shortest blade in our arsenal mmm well I guess we have the five and a half inch twist shear but just to show you that you can see this with pretty much any shear because normally we would like to do this with a slightly longer blade, but the nice thing about this technique is that you can really do it with any shear now, the main difference is with this year's blouse.

We can see that curvature. The main difference is that when I go to close, this is going to cut some hair, so I need to be incredibly careful with the tie and with the sliding shear. We put a lot of tension and even a little pressure on the hair while we were cutting it with a normal shear that is meant to grab the hair and cut cleanly, take another one inch section, leave that S-type blouse. cautious and careful and you'll notice that I'm almost gentle, like I'm gently stroking it through the strand of hair so that it's actually peeling off some bits of the next section that I'm getting. about four sections along the back, of course that will depend on the size of your head and you will also notice that the shear is not really perpendicular to the strand of hair.

I'm trying to get it really parallel to the strand of hair again because that's going To eliminate less hair bang, find my entry point, just lift that hair up very gently as we go down the section, now again the purpose of this It's creating those shorter parts that move into longer parts from the bottom out to support a little more fullness. the hair, if we were doing this to deflate it, take the weight off it and hopefully collapse it a little bit, we would work from the top down, before we move on to the next section, let's take out this bottom clip before we continue. anywhere, let's just tickle the hair a little bit and see how it feels, to see if we get the movement and the texture that we want and that looks pretty good, what we want is we don't want to see the ends. thin because people aren't looking for thin and wispy ends, they're just looking for that separation and texture, so if you do the first section and notice that the section looks a little thin and wispy in the next section, increase the thickness and increase the width of that section so that as you lower it, add some weight back to that perimeter, so I'm going to work the exact same technique on the next two sections going through the crown here, okay? up to the crown a little point of caution, be careful with the growth patterns because if they have a very strong growth point throughout the crown, a very strong growth pattern, by putting too much short hair there, you can add strength to that growth pattern so you can the hair falls out watch how it wants to fall this piece is fantastic nothing I need to worry about so let it last a little bit and again just gently peel that hair from short to long mmm up the tips, being careful. to make sure you leave those ends completely intact there because that's what this particular guest is asking for, they don't really want to see a lot of surface layers, they just want to see the movement and the body of the layers, now here we are. going into an area that even on the mannequin's head they implant a swirl to make it more realistic, which is amazing, thanks pivot point for doing that with that mmm, again we want to take the hair, give it a little top and see where it bends you .

I can see that even this is like giving me a blouse further, which is great because I hope that's what your hair will show, but if you're worried at all, you can start a little further because that little extra weight you're going to leave by starting more will minimize the risk of that growth pattern taking over and wreaking havoc, you can always do a little more, remember that principle, you can always take off more hair, but if we get a little crazy and make a big hole and fat there, that's something that can't be fixed, so we can see that we get this really nice soft texture now, when you tickle the hair a little bit, it's best to get some of those shorter pieces that you cut on that surface top they're going to stick out a little bit, so it's going to give them some movement over here, it won't look all one length, but it's going to start to give them some body, texture and some fullness as we go.

On these sides there are a couple of little warning areas, we'll go back to the same size section and when we do that, go ahead and remove the clip and trim all that hair in the back for the same reason we want to make sure we protect. That hair that we have already cut previously so that we do not cut it twice, one thing that I did forget to mention in the hairline back that I will mention here, be a little careful because if you have guests who pull, gather the hair and make buns exaggerated very often, you have to be a little cautious with this because if they do it very often and you cut a lot of short hair underneath when they pull it up, the short hairs will fall out if they pull more than a low ponytail just for exercise and those things, this is not a big deal, but if they do the high ponytail with a high bun, something like that, you might want to start, maybe I don't know, about a half inch or so above the head.

Shape it so that you leave some hair on the perimeter that when you lift it will help mask those shorter hairs, so we'll continue as if she didn't do that because we already started this section that way. above the ear,nothing special if they have some growth patterns that sometimes happen here around the ear you might want to be a little bit cautious and even that density over here may also start to decrease a little bit and if that happens we also want to be a little bit cautious with regarding how much we moved there, at the perimeter of the front hairline.

We definitely want to be a little cautious because, again, if she's someone who takes her hair out of her face, she puts it back in. a ponytail if we have kind of a shorter strand of hair right here on the face, which could be problematic for her, so one way to do it is to slide it diagonally from the ear forward to still produce a little bit more hair. short inside. but you're keeping it behind the front hairline, so it was a little bit short, wait, take the blouse, there's the end of my blouse, so I'm going to work very softly from the ear and almost like I'm leading too far forward. and Now I'm working from short to long towards her face so we still have a little bit of shorter hair underneath to give it some texture and movement, but from the front you won't see any short strands around the front hairline so I'll continue working upwards. this side and then the exact same thing as we go down to your opposite side, we're going to work on the exact same scientific movement, the same sections, elevations about 90 degrees horizontal to the floor, that's going to be a good elevation because it's going to keep things very, very soft, if you make a little aggressive cut or something, when it falls back into a natural fall, it will soften if you do this at a very low elevation, a bit like that could be really visible, so I'm going to continue while we come to the last section here at the top again.

The same is what we were talking about in the corona, just be a little careful here. If you get too aggressive at this point, you could leave her with some chunks. of hair that are strong enough to go through that surface and cause some kind of exit, so on top, here, give it a little top, there's the entry point, think about I don't know, right underneath, what it should be. Okay, because that shorter piece would be kind of the roundness of the head, if my last section was up here, it might be a little scarier to do something like that and not show it, so if you're worried, just go.

Go ahead and follow your fingers a little further before you start the movement of the shear and that will give you some protection, remember guys, you can always cut more hair. A great rule of thumb to constantly remind them to just give him a little top. To find where you want to start, it's important to work from your natural side. Hopefully they'll usually stick with a similar part because if they're going to flip the part back and forth, the only thing you have to be a little careful with is making sure that, for example, now we're cutting the hair shorter here , so let's say she says, well, I do my part from one side to the other, you know, sometimes I grab it from here and turn it the other way. that would make this shorter point sit right on the surface and because it goes more to the opposite side of the head, it will actually appear as a very, very short point if your guest has that particular need to want to turn it back and forth. back. and back and forth, we suggest that you make sure that you don't place those shorter hairs anywhere above that vertical transition or towards the head that will protect you and then all the way to the top, maybe more like a really soft texture on instead of being so deliberate. okay, last section here and again, this is something where we don't want to risk having too much short hair around your face, so we'll work from behind this section, go ahead and start a little bit more and let them fall from that way those shorter parts on the inside just aren't right along the perimeter go ahead and take out all your clips at this point comb the hair and make sure all the stray hairs have fallen out shake it a little and a feeling Sam says texturize it's all eyes and feel and that's so true that one of the things we want to make sure we do is that as we work, you know, if you can close your eyes, really tune into your hands, make sure you do that.

You don't feel thick areas or density, but the mirror is a great tool at this point, you know, looking in the mirror with the guests and having them run their hands through the mirror to see how they feel, where they feel like there's too much. Still, this actually feels pretty good, but you can see why it's so important to work in a structured way and do this with intention and purpose, if we just took random sections and just punched them in, we'd risk having thin area. here thick area here maybe a super big hole around the ear there are a lot of problems that could arise so the last thing is we put a little product under the hair, we are going to go very simple this time, we are going to shine flash zero two , it's enough of a product that will help show some of that texture, we will make the hair move with our hands and then the flash of shine will be introduced from well behind the hair that we don't want to get too close to. product that we want to be distributed evenly and smoothly through the hair and mainly we want that product to be distributed through the ends of the hair rather than through the scalp and mid-strand most of the time product that we are looking To add visual texture, we're going to want to keep that in Hibbs and it ends nicely, so let's review the key points here first.

We want to section that area that has a ton more hair behind the hairline from the front, start with about a one and a half inch section at the back of that horizontal section, if it's finer hair you can use a section wider to leave a little more density per section, if it's thicker hair, go ahead and thin those sections so you can create more. holes inside the hair, but smaller pieces and also remember that if you are working with thicker hair, you are trying to do light work from the top of the section down rather than from the bottom section, then continue with those sections one and a half inches.

Remember when you get to the crown area, be very careful with those swirls over the top of the ear and on the back hairline and be careful if the guest is someone who wants to put their hair up in high ponytails and high buns, be sure to leave them. a little bit of a masking piece right at the hairline so that when you pull it up it gathers those shorter hairs into that bun or ponytail also around the front hairline, work from behind this section towards the face so that it does not put shorter hairs. right there next to the face, hopefully, this is something you can present to your clients who are looking for fuller texture and movement, but don't want to see superficial layers in their haircut.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave them. We would love to hear from you. Thanks so much for looking. I'm Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education at Sambia.