HHO Generator - Water to Fuel Converter

Can you make the

water

explode? Well, maybe not

water

itself, but with a simple technique we can turn one of the most abundant materials on Earth into a highly explosive gas. In this project we are building a

generator

that uses electricity to turn this into this. For this project we are going to need some stainless steel. I'm with a local manufacturing company and not only do they have a lot of scrap metal to choose from, but they are even willing to help me cut it into custom sizes. A job that would have taken me hours with tin snips and a hacksaw only takes minutes with your equipment.

This is 20 gauge stainless steel and this hydraulic punch is used to cut precise holes in the top and bottom of plates. When I'm done, I have 12 plates measuring 3" x 6", 4 plates measuring 1 1/2" x 6", and three 1" connector bands measuring 6", 4 1/2", and 3 1/4". A belt sander is perfect for smoothing out any jagged edges around the hole, and now it's time to head home and get to work. We'll need these 4" ABS cleaning accessories, 3/8" polyethylene tubing, as well as some scrap 4" and 2" acrylic tubing that I found at a plastics company. When I peel off the protective layer of the plates, it reveals a beautiful and attractive surface.

But that's not what we want for this project. Instead, we'll need to find some sandpaper. This is 100 grit, I will place 2 plates in a diamond shape and sand from top to bottom, then turn 90 degrees and repeat. These marks will increase the surface area of ​​the plates and increase the efficiency of the

generator

. Ok, I finished both sides of the plates and you can see the crisscross pattern etched into the metal. The 1 1/2" plates are also sanded, but the 3 connecting bands are not. Alright, it's time to cut this acrylic tube to size, so I'm using a circular saw to trim this edge until it's smooth, then I will do it.

Measure 7" and cut nice and slow so as not to splinter the plastic. As the blade cuts, the friction also helps heat the plastic, leaving a fairly clean edge. After cutting 5" of the 2" pipe, it's time to make some connections. With a little gentle coaxing, I managed to get the large acrylic tube onto the cleaning adapter, but before I put them together, let's add a liberal amount of clear silicone caulk around the outside base. This will also go on the inside, being very careful that there is no silicone left on the threads. Now we can use a rubber hammer to tap the tube into place and clean off the excess silicone.

The paper towel works well and in a few minutes everything will be clean. We can turn it over and repeat the fixing process, caulk this part and this part, tap it into place and wipe off the excess. While I'm in the mood to clean, I'll use my adhesive remover to help remove the UPC stickers and then give everything a final clean. I'm going to seal the bottom with a 4" ABS cleanout plug and some ABS cement. The sticky black cement is applied to the threads of both parts and then I'll use this piece of wood from my "Solar.

Scorcher Frame Project" to help screw it in well. The excess is removed and we can let it sit here to dry. While that's drying, let's work on making the bubbler. I want to attach this 1/4" 90 degree elbow to the cap, so when I remove the stickers, I'll grab my 1/2 drill bit and a tap. The hole is drilled in the center, then threaded with 18 thread, just before adding pipe tape to the elbow adapter and screwing it into place. When it is tight and I have repeated the exact same process with the other cap, I am happy to see that they fit perfectly on my acrylic pipe.

However, it looks unfinished as well. which I will first use these top pieces of 2 trap adapters to slide over the tube, and now when I add the cap, they screw on to give this piece a clean, professional look. Okay, now it's time to work on the plates of the. generator. Similar to the bubbler caps, I am drilling a 1/2" hole in the top of the 4" cleanout plug. When threaded with 18 thread, we can add pipe tape to a swivel elbow. 3/8" and screw it into place. You can see that this rotates 360 degrees, and that's mostly for convenience. Using a 5/16" drill bit, I will make holes on each side of the cover, and these will be to hold the generator plates.

I cut this hole a little close to the edge, but that's okay. My belt sander easily rounded the edges and now it fits perfectly. Next, I will mark the two smaller bands at about 2 3/4" and use my vise and rubber hammer to bend them at 90 angles. The 6" piece is marked at 1 3 /4" and 4 1/ 4", then bent into a "U" shape. A 5/16" coarse threaded nylon bolt is cut into two 4" long pieces. I will prepare some nylon washers and add them. two stainless steel lock nuts to the end of each bolt. The bolts are fitted with two of the connector straps and one of the smaller plates, then a plastic washer is added on each bolt.

These washers are 3/4 in diameter. " and a thickness of approximately 0.06". Another 1 1/2" plate is added and secured with a nut on each bolt, and the large plates can now be attached. I'm stacking them in the order of plate, washers, plate, nuts and repeating until we have a total of 8 plates in place. This is the center of the generator, and the other connector strap is added on top and secured with another nut. I'll add one more nut to the bottom to make up for the space. and then I go back to my routine of adding plate, washers, plate, nuts, until I run out of large plates.

The two smaller plates are added last, and now all we have to do is trim the ends of the bolts to about 1/. 2" so we can put the bottom connector in place, add a nut and tighten. The other bolt also gets a finishing nut, and then it's trimmed, and now we just need to turn the generator over and move these screws so we can tighten the internals. The generator boards are ready and looking great, so let's connect them to the 4" socket. To do that, I'll add a nut to a 5/16" x 2" stainless steel bolt and push them through the hole. on the right connector strap.

This 1/4" washer is stainless steel on one side and rubber on the other, and I'm going to push it down with the rubber side up. That's all repeated on the left side and now the cap goes over the bolts. Two more washers are added, this time with the rubber side down, and secured with another nut. Using an Allen wrench, the nut is tightened securely and then a few more metal nuts and washers are added to the posts. added convenience. This piece is finished. I'm very happy with it, and when I dry fit it into the housing and screw it into position, I'm starting to get excited.

We're going to need a way to secure the bubbler to the side, so using. some scraps from the 2" pipe, I will very carefully cut out two 3/4" thick circles and then use a 2x4 to keep the piece flat while I trim the top. What I did was create a clip for our bubbler. and you can see that it easily clips onto the tube and stays firmly in place. The other circle is cut out and a belt sander is used to match the pieces as closely as possible. I have some acrylic rod left over from my "Fire Piston" project and I will cut 2 pieces about 1 1/2" long.

I will use some acrylic glue to secure the clips to the connector rods and after 2 minutes they are firm , but they will still take more than 2 days to fully cure. While they harden, I will use scissors to cut my poly pipe to 20" and another piece to 2". This will prevent anything from flowing back into the generator. The 20" tube goes to the other end of the valve and then connects to one of the bubbler elbows. It looks like we're ready to attach the clips to the body, so let's use the body of the bubbler as a shape to space the clips, and with the generator on its side, find where it balances.

That looks good there, so acrylic glue is added to the clips and replaced on the body, I'll use a little more glue in the gaps. and we remove the bubbler to let it cure. Meanwhile, we can prepare 6 cups of distilled water, and some potassium hydroxide flakes, 4 teaspoons of flakes will act as a catalyst to help the electricity flow, so when they are. Mixed, we can open the generator body and place a coffee filter to filter the liquid into the super clean shell. The filter is removed and screw tape is added to the lid, then the generator plates are slowly inserted into the solution and. screwed tightly.

To finish, we can remove the top cover of the bubbler, add a little water and screw it back on. The rest of the polyethylene tubing is attached to the elbow of the bubbler, and there it is! A sexy looking hydroxy generator! This system produces an extremely potent oxyhydrogen gas. It runs on two car batteries and produces about 5 liters per minute, and when the gas is used it simply turns back into water. The amount of water already in this system is enough to produce thousands and thousands of liters of

fuel

. Some people say this is the

fuel

of the future.

Whether true or not, the amount of power in the gas is humiliating. Well, here's how to build a simple water/fuel

converter

. If you liked this project, you might like some of my others. Check them out at www.thekingofrandom.com