HANGING A NEW DOOR IN AN OLD JAMB, Prog. 9, With Gary Katz

Hi, I'm Gary Katz. I want to thank everyone who has purchased DVD copies of my shows over the past 20 years. If it wasn't for their support and the support of companies like Windsor One and Stabila, I would never have been able to do it. I produced what turned out to be a series of 10

prog

rams on how to master finished woodworking. Those videos from 12-20 years ago looked pretty terrible compared to today's streaming video and that's why I don't sell the DVDs anymore, but the woodworking techniques haven't aged much. everything and that's why I make them available here for free.

Please enjoy again the Mastery and Woodworking DVD series completed in previous

prog

rams. I've covered mastering a miter saw, installing casing and baseboards, conquering crown molding, and went a little overboard with wainscoting. Now it's time to deal with the

door

s. I don't know why this show came so late in the series. I have probably spent more time in my carpentry career

hanging

door

s than in any other job and I have enjoyed installing almost every door. one of them, except maybe the first 10 or 20. And that's the reason for this program. Hanging doors, even pre-hung ones, is a tricky business.

You have to see the big picture before you start and those are the secrets to being successful in finishing work and life. too much understanding how one problem relates to another seeing the big picture with doors is difficult there are so many things to pay attention to that is the goal of this program to show you some step by step routines that work to demonstrate important techniques and point out pitfalls that can be They can avoid and shorten a learning curve to help control chaos most of the time that's what woodworking is about controlling chaos sometimes life is too we're standing on the hinge side of this Jam the hinges point This way this is a right door if I stand with my butt on the butts, this door would move the same as my right arm.

I'll talk more about that in the next program on pre-hung installation. If you look closely, you'll see that the hinges fit here. They are too deep, just what you would expect from an older Jam, we will soon see how that affects the fit of the door. This Jam is also pretty wonky, the reveal on the head is on the outside because the head gets stuck like most of the old ones. The problems are: If I keep this level high, you can see that the bubble in the vial is right against the line and the head is also out of square.

Let me put this square in this corner and you can see the daylight right over here and it moves because all of this. The corner here is out of square and the Jam's legs are also out of square. We're in my studio and this is a set, but this Jam is like hundreds of others I've come across in remodels. Look at the hinge. Jam here has a belly. On it, I can see through it, it must be more than an eighth of an inch. You can't use a short level for this. You need a level that is the full height of the

jamb

.

Look at this level. It's a great level, but there are only four of them. feet high and he is leaning against this Jam because he is not tall enough to lift the arch that is on his Jam leg and on this side there is an arch on the hit side that makes the level swing more than a quarter of inch on both legs. They went out to lunch. I'm going to show you a method to trace a door to fit this jam and hopefully the door will open and fit right the first time with just a few adjustments.

I didn't think of this technique. I learned it. by Royal and Al Shafer and every time I demonstrate this process or teach it to a new woodworker, I mention the Shafer brothers from the 1950s to the 1980s, those guys were door

hanging

kings in Southern California, before Before pre-hung doors existed, they had to do it. hang doors quickly and well and they did it. I'm going to show you the system they used, which is the one I still use today. I have to stand on the stop side of this Jam here in my studio in my shop. this door, so let's move the camera back here so you can see what I'm doing when I place this door in the opening.

Now you can see the back wall of my studio. There's the old roller door. up there on the jam and you can see how bad the leader of this jam is. It's actually on a level maybe a little worse than what you find in some jobs, but maybe not, this is the kind of jam you could really end up in. problem if you just put the hinges on the door and start hanging it right on the frame. I remember when I first started hanging doors I worked on a frame where the head would lift up and the hinge would get stuck like this, where it would lift up and I would have to keep moving the door. hinge the door down to continue lifting the door so you can continue drawing a little more into the head of the door to fit the jam.

You can skip all that nonsense if you first write the door to fit the jam. Now I need to get it. this door as close to old Jam as I can before writing it first. I'm going to put it in a couple of foreign wedges. This is a door hook that the Shaffer brothers used, one that was very similar to this one. It is probably one of the most useful tools a door hanger can have, it allows a man to write doors alone without a helper, which is what efficiency and productivity is all about, plus, when you rely on a helper to holding a door, they don't pay enough attention to what you're doing.

Your helpers are usually the smallest kids on the team and just when you're about to finish grabbing the door, the grip will loosen and the door will slide and move a little, and even if the door moves just a fraction of an inch , you still have To start practically over, you can make one of these door hooks quite easily. Check out the slideshow on this DVD and you'll see what I mean. I have adjusted this door hook to grip and stretch across the top of the

jamb

and tighten the door against the jam. Now I'm going to adjust the door so that it is parallel to the jamb.

I know this jam is everywhere, but I want to start as parallel as possible. I use a small lever to do this is a carpet ply bar and I can move the door on the shims almost any way I want. If I want to tilt the door up a little bit and get it closer to parallel on this side, it's just going to take a little bit. of the weight of the door with a lever and slide the wedge a little further and I can move the door closer to the jam at the bottom here too and the same on this side.

I'm going to take the door and loosen this wedge just a hair and push this one a little bit too so that both sides are closer to parallel to the giant of both jams. Now the door has moved too far in this direction. I can slide the door back. I can move the entire door at once by simply placing my lever in the center of the door and sliding it to the side. I'm turning the lever and I'm moving the whole door closer to this jam. Now it looks nice. near this jam, I'm putting one side up of the jam between the jam and the door and on this side I'm doing the same thing, but I need to move the door a little more in this direction and maybe lower it a little. on this side and that should do it, that's almost perfect, but sometimes you don't want to hang the door perfectly parallel to the jambs, like this door, remember the head of this drawer is at a high level, let's measure it so we can see the full picture, look at the distance between the jam and the bottom of the top rail on the striker side is 4 and one sixteenths and the distance between the jam and the bottom of the top rail on the hinge side is three and seven eighths , that's over 3 16 of an inch, if I cut this door to fit that way, the top rail will have a slope that even a child could notice from across the room.

Here's a point I try to make every time I teach new carpenters our responsibility. It's not about making things perfectly plum, perfectly square, and perfectly level. Some woodworkers think that way, but I think our job is to make things look plum, square and level so things fit and look finished, sometimes that means cheating a little to split the difference. I mean it's a phrase we all use for good reason. In this case, I'm going to split the difference and make this door a little cheaper to hide the fact that the jam is over at Plum. Sure on some jobs you might be able to remove the jam and reset it, but this example is supposed to be a situation where you can't move the jam, maybe there are bricks all over the outside or maybe there is wallpaper on the inside and you don't want to remove the case because it might tear the wallpaper, so what I'm going to do is lift up the hinge.

Slightly strange style, perfect, now we are at a strong 3 and 15 16. So really the top of the door is missing. It's not much noticeable less than an eighth of an inch, someone with a good eye might notice it, but it's the best of both worlds. Remember that I faked the casing on the other side, which helps hide that the jam has also been removed. to check the hinge and lock Styles next just to make sure the door is centered this one is four and a quarter so I'm going to take the door and move it towards the Jam hinge just a little bit that should work fine now this is something which you have to be careful with, you don't want to go too far off the style of the log, if you plan more than three and three quarters of it you will have problems fitting a latch, hey, trust me, in this case, Older Schleg latches need almost three and seven eighths of an inch, you at least want that much meat on the door, especially on a French door, or you might hit the glass when you're bored of the latch, you can guess how I know, so always check the log style before you trace the door, if you have an opening that is too narrow for the door, you can remove more meat from the hinge style but not too much from the lock style, okay, the door is done, it's centered here and I'm ready to write it, this is a one inch door and 3 8, so I'm going to extend my scribes about an eighth of an inch.

Now this is important, so pay close attention. I want the spaces around the door to be the space between the door and the jamb. To be one-sixteenth of an inch strong when you're done on the hinge side, one-sixteenth of an inch strong is like a dime or a nickel or something like that. Some woodworkers prefer a nickel, which is probably safer if you live in an area where the humidity changes a lot here in Southern California, we don't have that kind of problem and my brother always tells me he likes to see a dime, so let's talk about a dime if you want a bigger gap, spread your scribes out a little bit more.

I talked about this again when I set the angle on my plane, but now I want you to understand why I spread my scribes further than the space I want. I'm standing on the stopping side of the door, the gem going side. to fit the door stop, that's the side of the door with a short tip of the bevels, that's why I extend my scribes a little more than the amount I want for the hinge and strike spaces that the cylinders the hinges point this way towards my study, that's where the long tip of the bevels is on the hinge and hits.

Styles, the doors are beveled in the style to eliminate jamming when closing. I'll talk more about that later, but now just notice how the door is narrower. the stop side through the short points of the bevels than through the hinge side with my scribe set. I can trace the hinge style and the lock style. Now you might be thinking, well, that's very easy because there is no stopping in a traffic jam, but in reality This is easy even when the traffic jam is stopped, even with recessed traffic jams. This is easy because you can take your scribes and place them right against the jam just like that and run them between the door stop and the door right on the jam on both sides.

I didn't stop this jam so you could see what I'm doing more clearly, but if you notice that my scribing line is in exactly the same place even when I'm placing the scribers over the jam because you can place the traces down you can place them this way or this way you can rotate the traces but you can't place them so that don't be perpendicular to the jam the strokes have to be perpendicular to the jam or you I'll be scribbling a line, you won't be writing the door to the jam, that's one of the reasons I like to use a mechanical pencil on my scribes, it allows me to go in and place these scribes firmly.

I still have an old one. Cross pencil in this set of scribes, you can't buy these anymore, not with a nine millimeter lead, this is probably the most expensive way to do it, anyway the least expensive scribes you can find are a Pentel pencil like this one that has a nine. Millimeter lead, which is the same size that I use in the cross pencil, but this one only costs like 10 or 12 dollars, don't get the five millimeter one, it breaks veryeasily and surely this little one breaks two, but not that much, the trick is. to keep those strokes perpendicular to the jam, you can place them behind the stop, but you can't rotate the strokes; otherwise, like I said, you will now be scribbling a line when I write the top of the door. squeeze the scribes closed and remove a minimal amount of the top that way you won't remove too much meat up there and this top lock rail will still look great so I'm going to squeeze my scribes closed and make sure that I'm going to get to the top of the door at both ends of the jamb at that end and in the center, there are a lot of doors here, remember because this is the jam that is crooked, it is at a level, so I am in the jam here about a eighth of an inch and over here I'm going to remove about a quarter so I can trace the top of the jam as well, so now as I'm standing here, some of you might be thinking, hey, with the door against the jam like this.

Why not put the door hinges on? You know, just transfer the hinge mortise line directly onto the door. I know some door hangers that make my brother like Mark to place the hinges that way, but you have to do it. You will be able to see perfectly level along this top hinge to get an accurate mark and I found that it is very difficult to do with true confidence. I want to make sure you have the exact spacing between the heads of your doors. I'll show you in a second but first we have a little further to go here there is one more side of this door that needs to be taped on the bottom if you are hanging an exterior door you should have the threshold of the door and still the edge a hand before you hang the door so you know exactly how much to cut the bottom of the door.

If it is an interior door, then you need to know how high the carpet or stone or tile will be so you can cut the door and seal it. on the bottom while the doors on your bench, you can easily get two coats of sealants, sometimes three on the bottom of a door while cutting the mortises and planing them to fit before moving this door. Now there's one more step and it might be the most important step: make sure you put an x ​​on the side of the hinges right here before you move the door. That is not the direction the hinge will point.

The barrel will not point this way, but will point. that way, it is only the side of the door that the hinges are installed on. This is now the style of hinge that times, but in both you'll want to look for that X, let's measure the hinge locations right now. I'll push this door out of the way first. Every door has a gap between the top of the door and the top of the jamb which we call the head gap is usually about one eighth of an inch and allows the door to close without rubbing the head.

Jam When I measure the hinge locations, I pretend the top of the tape measure is the top of the door. I place it against the head jamb and then slide it down about an eighth of an inch for the headspace, so I can measure that space accurately by watching the tape measure as it slides past the top hinge. See here, it's seven inches almost to the right. that's tight, so I'm going to slide it down one-eighth of an inch until it's at six and seven-eighths, which will give me exactly one-eighth of an inch of headroom. Now I'm going to pinch the tape measure right here and hold it there with my other thumb and pull it down to get the other hinge measurements.

If I had a center hinge I would take that measurement right now and this bottom one is very easy to get now. I can see it's at 64. inches, there are only two mortises on this Jam, which is not uncommon, but I actually did it because that's all we need for this demo. I write those hinge measurements right on the door, on the door hinge style, which is six and seven eighths and 64 You know, it seems like every door hanger has a different method of measuring the hinge layout. I've known some guys who use a post and place a piece of doorstop like this or a piece of one by two right against the head of the Jam. like this and then they mark where the hinges are right on the story post.

I even know other guys who will take a nickel, place it on top of that story post and place it against the head jamb and then leave their mark. on the floor post on both hinges that way when you put the floor post into the door to transfer the lines all you have to do is level the top of the floor post with the top of the door after you have cut the door and will have a perfect hinge design personally. I don't like to do it that way. I like to use my tape measure. It's something I've gotten used to.

It's something the shafers taught me to do and they had a good reason for doing it. If you want to be really efficient at a job you should carry the fewest tools when you are drawing a door, all you really need is a tape measure and I have it with me anyway. I have done it this way. for almost 20 years, you know, but that doesn't mean it's the best way, it's just a good way to figure out what's the best way for you. The last thing I do while I have the door near the opening is measure the distance to the lock.

I tapped and subtracted an eighth of an inch from that measurement, so I tapped my tape measure against the top jam and worked my way down to the jam jam. If there is one now, there isn't one in this jam, but if there was one, I would measure it. to the center of the trunk strike and subtract that eighth of an inch for the headspace and I would write that measurement right on the style of the lock here now all the measurements are right on the door if my door bench is in another room of the house or downstairs or something, I won't have to go back to this opening, all the information is right on the door and when I hang more than one door in a house, instead of writing an on the door and I'll put the same number on the jam that way I can describe a bunch of doors and take them to my bank and process them all at the same time.

I used to watch Royal Shafer. He would write 30 doors, sometimes even more, before he started hanging one, he would take them all to his bench first and then the sawdust and it would really fly because everything he did was the same thing over and over and over. time. Next, most doors weigh much more than this little 3 8 inch interior door. The 3068 and 3080 solid core doors can hurt you if not moved carefully and it's not just the path to one door, it's the weight of all the doors. You will hang it in a day, a week or a month, that will wear you out and, besides, the smarter you are at moving doors, the more energy you will have and the more doors you will be able to hang the first step on. the door bench is cutting the top and bottom of the door.

I always place the door down on my bench with the X facing up and the X facing me that way after cutting the top and bottom, I only have to lift one. door edge up and then place it edge on my door hook. I don't have to twist or turn it, that's when a heavy door can really hurt you. I'll show you what I mean as soon as I finish cutting this door on this door I don't have to cut the bottom just the top and I'm going to use a Festool ts55 saw and a guide rail to make this cut here's the saw and here's the guide rail, the head gets stuck had a little arc, so if you look at this edge here with the guide rail, you'll notice that I can't follow the Scribe line with the guide rail because of the arc in the head.

I'm going to have to put this guide rail here a little bit wider and then clean it later with a brush after I make the cut. I'll show you how to do it in just a minute. The good thing about these guides. The rails don't have to worry about breaking on the face of the door, but if the Scribe line has an arc like I have here, then you first need to score the Scribe line with a knife, just take your Square and run your pointless. run the knife over the door style several times, don't try to push too hard on the first pass, make several light, shallow cuts first, don't push too hard right away because if you do, sometimes the knife can jump above the door. blade and if you're pushing too hard on your square here, your blade will go right through the tip of your finger and cut the tip of your finger, so make very light little lines here, just several of them, one after the other, until you get a nice deep marked line now on a slab door you have to mark the whole door so you have to use a ruler for that on this door its not necessary but no matter what you have to mark a line across The back of the style just behind the scribing line, like this here, if you don't do that, the wood can explode a lot when you make the cut with the saw or if you happen to go out the back of the door with your planer, but I'm going to show you how to plan the top of the door so you don't have to worry about it.

This saw is different from most circular saws. This is the ts-55 for most doors. I use my larger ts-75 saws. It won't jam no matter what, but this saw will work well on a 3 to 8 door motor. I'll go slowly so as not to push her too hard. Both saws work the same way. The protection does not lift. As with circular saws, the entire saw sinks and there is a blade mounted back here that prevents kickback if the curve starts to close, but the mounted blade does not prevent all types of kickback. One of my guide rails has a Nick right behind it. a small cut about two inches long if you want to avoid dropping one on the guide rail, be sure to bring your Saab up to maximum RPM before diving into the workpiece, otherwise the teeth will hit the wood on a really low pitch angle and the saw will tend to jump back, let me put this guide rail here, so we'll align this guide rail right on the line and I'll be away from the line up here, we'll have to plan that out a little bit later.

I'm going to tighten this clamp and make this outside cut line up to here, but right here I'm proud of the Scribe line and I'm going to finish this off with a depth of cut planer. The planer adjusts with this handle it's like the throttle on a motorcycle, it's hard to change the cutting depth while holding the planer sideways, so here's a simple trick: adjust the depth of the planer so that it just cuts like maybe one-sixteenth of an inch at most maybe about 30 seconds and then go in the door and plan until you get to the line, so what I'm going to do is set it to cut about a 32 or a 16 of an inch, I'm just going to plane here. until I hit the line here, then I'll start again and play again until I reach the line again that time, the second time I'll be further ahead in the further back in the door and then the third time I'll probably get right to the line so you finish with a perfect writing line.

Oh, you know, the idea is to get to the Scribe line at the very edge of the door right here because that's the end goal, you can even adjust the depth of cut to hit the Scribe line, if you need to get there a little faster to the foreign line, you can turn the plane over and finish the job from above now I don't have to take There's a lot of detouring here, but just make sure the plane is always at zero when you return to this end of the gate, otherwise you'll blow up the back of style.

I'm going to take a quick look here just to straighten this out. then take a sanding block like this and smooth the top edge of the door, you know, while the door is flat and you're on the bench like this, it's a good time to put a coat of sealant on the top edge and if you cut the bottom or even if you don't put a coat of sealant on the bottom edge as well before you put the door on the edge of your bench and that's what I'm going to do now with the ax towards me all I have to do is lift the door until it is vertical like this and then lift the full weight of the door in my left hand.

I have to carry the full weight of the door but only for a moment, that makes it much easier and I don't have to. to bend my back, which also makes it easier and I don't have to bend my knees either, I just move the door to the side of the bench, then I put the other end on the floor down here and after that I only carry a fraction of the weight of the door and it's easy to lower this Edge onto my door bench step and outside door hook so I can lift the opposite end up to this hook, that's the only way to work with heavy doors. without letting them beat you up notice the x is now facing up and that's how I always want the door on my bench when I start brushing the styles becauseI always plan the hinge style first and I have simple rules like that, once you follow them without exception, it is the best way to avoid mistakes when hanging doors and believe me, there are many ways to screw this up.

I think I've done them all at least once. I always put the door hinges on first so the x is always above the X and the Scribe. The lines are always against my bank. The bench acts as the doorstop. Prevent the door from falling. That means the door bevels always point downward toward my bench. Most doors are beveled between two and three degrees. I use this little gauge block here to set the angle on my plane. I learned this trick from a Roadshow attendee. I wish I could remember all the names of the carpenters who have taught me great tricks and techniques.

This one is especially important when you use a planer because you want the bevel angle. to make it exactly the same every time you hang doors that way, you can mark the extent of your scribes and the amount you bevel your door and when you open the doors the first time, they will fit almost perfectly every time you let me. To show you what I mean, I take the plane and I loosen the fence here and I'm going to take this two degree block and I'm going to put it here and I'm going to adjust this fence until it hits right on that indicator block, let me put this in. here and close it so it hits right on the gauge block and then tighten the guide because you want that two degree angle to be precise.

I used to play indoors with a 126 cable planer that has the motor hanging off this side of the tool for that plane I always had to hold my index finger right on the leading edge of the guide so I could hold the guide flat against the face of the gate, if the fence is not tight against the gate, then the bevel will change As you cut the gate, the fit of the gate will change, but the plane of the fence tool has the motor just aligned on the top of the tool so you don't have to hold on to the fence.

I can maintain depth. control the handle here and just run this plane along the edge of the door. The easiest way to plant a gate is to cut the edge parallel to the Scribe.Line up as quickly as possible, leaving as much meat as you can before the Scribe line, that way the last few passes are cut to exactly the same depth and you don't have to marking the cut down while making those last two passes weird. to knock down the edges of the door as well and then after I knock down the edges, I'll take a sanding block like this.

You can make them with a block of wood. You should really do this before sanding a door because Isn't it very easy to pick up a wood splinter, especially on a leather door? You don't want that to happen because if you pick up a big splinter you can ruin a door very quickly. Now it's time to stuff. for the hinges there are two times when you take out a tape measure while processing the door, just before making the mortise for the hinges and just before drilling the locks, both times you look for that X, there's the X, that's the only one manner.

To make sure I don't hinge a door or drill it upside down, I measured the hinges with a two and five tenths sharp pencil, it leaves a mark that is almost the size of a knife line, the top hinge measures six and seven eighths, so I'm going to make a mark here at six and seven eighths and I'm going to put an x ​​on the side of the line where the hinge goes, remember this is the top of the door, so the hinge has to come down from that line for the left doors, the top of the door is at the top of my bench up there for the right doors, the top of the door is down here at the bottom of my bench, so the little mark at 64 and I'll put the little I want that straight line because it makes it much easier to attach the hinge. jig I use jigs for all the work I do on doors when installing hardware and I use a jig guide and my router, that's what this bushing is for to protect the jig from the router bit.

The diameter of the jig guide is one-sixteenth of an inch larger than the cutter so that the template is one-sixteenth of an inch wider than the hardware I'm installing in all directions, meaning the total opening is a 1/8 inch larger than hardware Before placing the template on the door, be sure to adjust the backset stops on the back of the template. You can loosen these screws. This is a homemade template. You can loosen these screws here or in this template made by templaco. You can loosen these four screws and slide these rear sets. stops back and forth to adjust if you do not adjust the rear assembly stops, the door may not hang flush with the jam, it may be proud and sticking out of the jam, or it may hang too far into the jam and end up being clamped when hanging a new and old door you have to match the door hinge set to the jamb hinge set and the hinge sets are a bit like upside down crown molding and upside down if the hinge is too deep, the door will come out of the jam and away from the stop.

If the rear hinge assembly is too shallow, the door will be too close to the stop and may rub against the stop to adjust the rear assembly. Start by placing the template on the jamb just above the existing hinge mortise, the back assembly stops should be adjusted so that the template extends beyond the hinge mortise approximately one-sixteenth of an inch if the door stop is in the way and prevents the jig from reaching the back of the hinge mortise then measure the distance from the face of the jamb to the back of the hinge mortise which is the back assembly of the hinge.

Place the stops on a template for that measurement plus one-sixteenth of an inch because the template guide is offset from the cutter by one-sixteenth of an inch, so when I place the template on the door I have to place it one-sixteenth of an inch past the cutter. Hinge design line. I have learned to calculate that amount, it is not that difficult to do now I notice that the opening The end of this template where the hinge cylinders come out points towards me. Remember that the hinge cylinders always point towards your belly. We are standing on the hinge side of the door.

The door bench is on the door stop side. There is always foreign dust collection. This little router is not one hundred percent as it is with the planer, but most of the dust is collected, making it easier and faster to cut the mortises. Very little dust accumulates against the edges of the template, so the dust does not interfere with the foreign template guide, move the template towards this end. Now we'll get this edge. This shroud is too strange. You can use quarter-inch radius hinges that drop directly into the mortise left by the router bit, but for this door.

I'm going to use square corner hinges, so I have to square up the corners left by the router bit here and to do that I'm going to use this little tool called a corner chisel. I'm just going to attach the corner chisel. give it a foreign blow. Next I will make this shroud here as well. I'm going to drill pilot holes for each screw using a Vex bit. Now a Vex bit is really cool, it's a critical step when you're hanging a door if you don't drill pilot holes the screws will go wherever they want. I've seen screws push the hinges into the edge of the mortise here so hard that they will split the face of the door and you don't want that to happen.

Happening now, the vix bit is nothing more than a self-centering bit with a spring-loaded housing on the outside of the vix bit that allows you to center the bit right in a screw hole so that the bit ends up dead center where you Si you want to put the screw in, foreign screws, make sure they seat firmly, but don't overdo them or they will strip and shear the brass screws. A good cordless drill like this is really a must, but you'll also notice that I'm pulling the trigger just to be safe, in other words, when you tighten a screw, don't pull the trigger all the way after all, when you drive a car, you rarely You step on the pedal to the floor, you tighten a screw like an old man does. man drives a car, give it a little power, then turn it off, then give it a little more power, then turn it off that way you have full control of the torque, regardless of the clutch setting, now it's time to brush the style lock on the other side of the door when I flip this door I don't flip it I roll it on the X and the Scribe lines always stay against my bench here's how to roll a heavy door first.

I choose us. I pull this end off the hook until it is standing. on that edge and then with my back straight, I lift the entire door and take it to the head of the door, the head of the door bench and then I roll the door down like this, now that I have it all the way. to the door, but only for a moment and I put that end on the floor and now I can put this end back on my door bench step and then go back down to this end and lift only half the weight of the door once.

Again, I don't bend my back, I don't bend my knees much, I reach all the way to the door just for that moment, you know, with this little door it's no big deal, I mean, I can pull this door out. from here and turn it to the near side, but most of the time you won't find yourself hanging light weights like this, you'll be hanging large, heavy foreign doors once again. I'm going to play on the edge of this door. until it is quite parallel to my tracing line. I am changing the depth of cut as I lower the cutter.

Thank you. I'm not looking just below the plane. I'm not looking right here. I'm looking forward. plane, so I'll be ready when I get to that area and can adjust the brush to the exact depth I needed. Now I'm going to set the plane to take off about a sixteenth of an inch and I'm going to make several clean passes, okay if the planer leaves any marks sometimes I'll get a small nick in the planer blade that will leave a slight ridge or lines on the wood or sometimes if you go too fast you will get some ridges in the wood. then I use my Rotex sander with some 80 grit Reuben Foreign Tex is much easier to use and much easier to control than a belt sander and also when you use it there is almost no sawdust, now we are going to drill for the template foreign blockade. for this it is much faster, it is totally reliable and you don't have to think about what you are doing at least once the jig is set up and you will never have to worry about going over the edge of the door with a bit once you have it made. the back set, that's all you have to do with the lock, lock sets and hinges have a back set on a lock, the back set is the measurement from the edge of the door to the center of the lock, You can check the back of a lock by measuring the latch, most latches these days are adjustable from two and three-eighths to two and three-quarters.

Locks on residential homes generally have two and three-eighths. Locks on commercial buildings are generally two and three-quarter inches. backset set, but don't let that rule fool you, a two and three-quarter inch backset set looks great on any door with a four and a half or five inch lock style, whether in a commercial building or in a house, a very boring jig is just like a small drill, no matter what you don't have to worry about drilling into the side of the door, but you do have to be careful not to bump one bit into the other, trust me, this bit it goes right in from the side and that's the face hole, this bit goes right on top of the jig and that's the edge hole so I can put the jig right on the door as well as most jams are already pre-drilled for a lock that this one wasn't and what we're going to do is make sure we drill this lock centered on the lock rail, the lock rail is six and five eighths, so I'm going to go three and five sixteenths, that will place the lock right here and then I'll take my square and I'll take that line to the edge of the door so I'll have a nice marked line on the top of the door, then I can take my boring template and I can take the drill bit and fix it. on that line and drop the jig so it slides directly into position and then tighten it.

Now you can use a cordless drill like this one to drill them, butwatch what happens and I'll stop because I'm trying to drill a really big drill. A hole with a straight bit and a cordless drill is not designed for that. What you really need to use is a large drill motor electric drill and I have a 3.8 inch drive on the end of this so you can attach it directly to the drill bit and run this through the door. The nice thing about this boring jig is that even though I came in the side of the door really hard and fast, the boring jig backs up into the hole so you don't have to. any tear and you'll notice I'm pulling the bit out right now.

I'm taking a bit out of The Jig right now, so when I drill The Edge hole I don't run into that bit. Here's kind of a good tip that you might appreciate this one day. Take a piece of blue tape before using the Edge Board bit. Take a piece of blue tape. Place it around the bit near the top, as long as it clears the socket of a hole. jig and that way when you are drilling a hollow door, when the drill bit goes down through the socket, the drill bit will not fall into the door, the tape will prevent it from falling through the boring jig my brother did that once and we had to cut the bottom of the door to get the bit back, I mean the bits cost 30 bucks, you know sometimes it's worth more than the door, but then you have to hang a new door because you can't leave the bit rattling around inside the door now I'm ready to mortise this latch, so I'm going to grab my latch mortise template here.

I'm going to place this right above the door and I'm going to center it right above that. boring and I can do that because I have lines right at the top of the template that line up with the line I left when I marked the edge of the door. I'm going to use a different router for this. a Festool mfk router here and by the way, these templates can also be obtained by templaco. Templeco not only makes the hinge jig like this, but also makes a complete set of locking jigs so you can get lock and latch jigs and latch jigs. in a templating set, but now I'm going to use this jig and this router where I also have a jig guide to run the mortise for this latch.

This is a great router because the extended base allows You should set this router up here and it won't tilt or anything. I have it set for latch depth. I use a different router for mortuary latches and another for mortising locks into jams. That's because the hinge mortises close the mortises. and the impact mortises are cut to different depths and once I have a router marked for a specific piece of hardware like the hinges or this latch here, I don't want to mess with that, dedicating routers to specific tasks is one of the secrets. to gain some real speed when you're hanging doors, now I can get this jig out here and take my corner chisel to square up these corners.

We are ready to hang this door and see if it fits. There are two ways to hang a door. a jam the hard way by removing the pins and separating the hinge leaves and the easy way by tilting the door into the top hinge mortise, that's the way I hang them, especially since I've always worked alone and Tilting the door up is the only way to hang a door, especially a tall heavy one, just, start by putting the door inside the frame, so I'm going to slide it back, keep it inside the frame. Now make sure the door is at 90 degrees to the opening and tilt the door. open the door now when you do this it's probably going to hit the top of the jamb just kick the back of the jamb a little bit and it will slide forward and when it does it just clears the jam head there and now you can tilt it up the rest of the way. and then take the hinge and align the hinge so the top screw lines up with the screw hole and a jam, but once it's aligned you can put the door back down, take your screwdriver and put the door back on up and Put a screw through the top hinge so, you don't have to tighten it too hard because it will lift the door and move it and you don't have to perfectly align this hinge with that one. shroud, you can take care of the rest of that later.

What I'm going to do is take my foot now and I'm going to hold it against the bottom of the door here and I'm just going to put enough pressure on it to lift the door into the air. Now when you do that, it's going to drop just a hair on this hinge because there's only one screw holding it on, but that's cool, I'll fix that later right now. I'm going to go down to the bottom of the door and put a screw in the bottom hinge. If there was a middle screw right here, a middle hinge here I also put a screw on that one before going down to the bottom. one, so I'm going to put one here first, once you have a screw in each hinge, put a pry bar right under the edge of the door and lift it up now.

I recently found this door Jack and that has been the best thing I have ever found for lifting doors and probably for drywall as well because it is lightweight, it is much lighter than the door lifter I once used and this one fits perfectly in my tool bag. It is light. It is made of recycled plastic with small pieces of steel, so it is strong enough. It is durable, will last a long time and will lift a door more than an inch and a half off the floor. You could lift this door into the air, which is great because if you cut a door to make a rug or thick stone it's going to be a lot further off the ground than this one.

Now I can take the door off with that and just put my foot here and put some weight on it and then drive in this group and put the next one on. like this and you can see that the hinge went right into the mortise. Now I'm going to put a longer screw in that third hole right here, that long screw came behind the jam on the trimmer and now I'm going to do the same thing. for the top, a little bit of weight on this little weight on the door. Put in this bottom screw that will pull the hinge right into the mortise and then I'm going to use that longer screw in the middle hole just like I did on the bottom here we go so I've got the door up here now the moment of truth let's see if it fits well to the less clears up and it doesn't fit that bad but it doesn't fit very well let's look at this closely and I'll show you what I'm talking about, the headroom, let's start right there, the headroom at the top and look here at this side of the door, right above the lock style, the headroom is too big and over here it's almost okay, but let's look at everything now before we go too far, the headroom on the lock style right here near the head is too tight, almost rubbing and as you follow this down, you notice that the space in the jam on the stroke is a jam. actually pretty good on the bottom now let's look at the other side we also need to see the full image here we want to see the full image on this side the space just above the top hinge is a little bit big and down as we follow that down is a little big here and down here it's just a tad big but it's actually pretty good down there, so what I'm doing here is looking at the big picture like I said when we started this program, if you want.

To control chaos, you really need to see the whole picture before doing anything with a door. A door is actually nothing more than a rectangle within another rectangle. There is the door rectangle and the traffic jam rectangle. You can adjust the door to fit. the jamb by turning the door at this point, which is the top hinge and at this point, which is the bottom hinge, it does so by adjusting the hinges. Now let me talk about that real quick. I have a couple of hinges here, a new one. one here is a new pair in a box.

I'll take this out, let me take the screws out of here and look at these. If you look at them very closely, you'll notice that the gap between the hinges comes out right here on this pair. of hinge is larger than the space between these two hinge leaves on this hinge, that happens all the time, that's because hinges are not made in a mold, they are made in a stamping machine, you know they are stamped . Outside this curve that is stamped. each hinge is called the hinge boot, this curve in the hinge is what allows the hinge to close without the leaves touching each other when the door closes, that boot gives it its leaf space or hinge space right there and that hinge gap is what determines what your gap is between the door and the jamb and what we need to do here is adjust the hinge gap because obviously they are not the same to fit the door inside the jamb rectangle, so let's turn the door. around the top hinge and the bottom hinge to achieve this fit now, let's look at this again.

I want to move the door up here to close this headspace here and I also want to move the door back to this direction. closer to this Jam so I close this hinge Gap here and increase this strike Gap here well there are two ways to do this there are two ways to bend a hinge and I call it the extension and The Squeeze this is the extension if I take a set of nails and I put it inside the hinge cylinder and I hold it tight against the knuckles of the hinge and then I close the hinge, if I close the door, I can squeeze this hinge and separate these two leaves and that will increase the space between the two leaves, which It's a way to grab the door and move it away from the jamb.

Conversely, I can take a wrench and I can take the wrench and close it around the knuckles of a hinge and pull the hinge in this direction and what I'll do is take the wrench and place it right on the knuckle of the hinge and pull it in this direction towards the blocking style. I'll talk more about that in just a moment. second, I can pull the hinge towards the lock style and that will return the door to the jamb. I want to show you that very closely, but first let's use the extension first, let's extend the hinge first and the hinge that we want to extend is not On this top one we want to tighten the top one we want to extend the bottom one we want to take the bottom one and extend it so that this door fits tighter to the Head Jam, so I'm going to do it by opening the door, put my set of nails here inside this sheet and then close the door right on that set of nails, well, that's probably enough to lift this door and it's that we have raised the door a little bit and now I want to take the door and move it towards the hinge jam and to adjust that hinge we want to tighten it to tighten it I'm going to push the pin up until it engages with these top knuckles.

I don't want it inside. the bottom ones and then I'm going to grab that hinge with my wrench and when I do I'm not going to pull the hinge back like this, that might be what you're tempted to think about doing, but it's not the right way. to move the door, you want to grab the door, you want to grab the hinge and bend it in this direction towards the lock and you want to be careful to grab the sash that is attached to the door, not the sash that is attached to the jamb you want to move the door you don't want to move the jam now this is really critical when you bend these hinges when you tighten them with a wrench if you grab the sash that is attached to the jamb and bend the sash towards the jamb in an attempt to move the door back to the jamb, you're going to close the sash gap immediately and then when you close the door you're going to have a hinge that's attached, that's the sash attached the only way I can do is grab the hinge that's attached to the door and bend it. towards the blow.

That knuckle was very easy to bend because it doesn't have a pin. This one is going to be more difficult, but I'll make a little adjustment to it and now I can bring it back down with my hammer and it'll be easy to get the PIN through the bottom two Knuckles, there we go and as it goes down, pull the door up. back and look this space is getting really nice now I can even bend that hinge more if I want and the reason I can do that is because I bevel both sides of the door I bevel the lock style and I bevel the hinge style and this is really critical if you bevel the hinge style when the doors close like this the hinge leaf opens a little more.

You've oversized the opening of that hinge so you can tighten it a little more with a wrench and pull the door back. I went into this Jam a little more than I normally could without risking ending up with a hinge that's attached to the Leaf, so this fits pretty well now it's good enough for my studio. Hey, look who's here, I'm Jacob, wave to the camera, wave. Good boy, do you know what these hinge adjustments we just made on this door are? We're going to use some of the same ones when we fit pre-assembled doors and that will be in the next program when I install a lock that I like.

The latch falls into the latch just as the door fits against the door stop. I used two techniques to locate the latch and both are quick and foolproof. If you look at the boring slideshow, you've probably seen the aluminum locator that comes with the template.templaco I slide that locator into the edge hole, close the door, then go through the front hole and push against the back of the locator, the locator leaves a small dimple in the jamb. I circle the dimple right away so I know exactly where to center my drill bit if the lock doesn't come with a dust bucket, use a 15 to 16 inch drill bit for the strike hole and drill the hole about three-quarters of the way through. the jamb for a bolt.

I drill all the way through the jamb and a little bit into the trimmer too Templaco also makes plastic locators that make it really easy to put a latch or striping jig into a 15 16 or one inch hole, just glue the locator in the hole and then place the jig on top of the router Festool mfk is perfect for cutting latch and latch mortises it collects a lot of dust and the router is easy to control and hold if the hardware has square corners it is easy to square the mortise with a chisel corner here is another method that also works Good for locating locks, especially for mortise locks where the aluminum locator cannot be used, place the lock on the top of the latch tight against the tang and then draw a pencil line on the face of the lock.

The blue tape makes it easier to see the next line. Close the door and hold it tight against the stop, then draw a line on the jam along the face of the door, a line with a line on the jam. I attached a piece of tape to both sides of this trace so you can see the line. Make sure clearly that the strike is also centered vertically on the latch, then draw a line with a very sharp pencil 2 and 5 10 around the strike use a template and router to mortise the strike or for single strikes make sure your chisels are Sharp enough to shave hair and then cut the shroud by hand the old fashioned way.

I've tried using many different manufactured insoles instead of being negative about insoles I don't use. I'll describe the jigs I use and why I use them. I use Bosch adjustable jigs a lot for hanging custom windows and doors, but let's be clear about this. I only use this system when I am hanging more than two or three. I won't configure this jig for a single hanger, but it is very useful if there are multiple doors with the same hinge design. This jig system is fully adjustable in hinge size and door thickness. It takes a little learning, but once you understand the settings, you can change the settings very quickly, one of the reasons.

I'll stick with the Bosch system because you can switch between left and right doors without flipping the template and you don't have to remove the adjustable stops either. This is the only adjustable insole system that allows you to do that, meaning you can clip the doors on the top to attach the insole, which is a real plus. I purchased the complete set and also a couple of additional hinge templates so I could install up to six hinges. I don't have them all in this picture but with three lengths of spacer I can work on short windows and doors six eight and seven oh doors and doors from eight to ten feet tall it's also easy to make quick wood spacers for anything else high for an occasional new door and an old Jam I will use a single template made by templaco.

I always use full length 6870 and 80 Temple jigs on new jams where there is no need to use my Bosch adjustable jig. I just discovered that those jigs are very precise, they place my hinges right where I want them and they are durable, plus they don't cost an arm and a leg so if something happens to one of them, it's no big deal to replace it. I make a lot of templates and I also save a lot of them. sometimes you shouldn't, jigs are pretty easy to make, especially with the tools we have today, so you don't need to save each one, but I start by ripping off the center spacers because I use a half inch drill bit and a 9 16 drill bit. template guide.

I ripped the spacers out one-sixteenth of an inch wider than the hardware, but for this D stroke I went much wider because it sticks out from the front of the mortise. I place the spacers in the center of the rear rail mark the height and then add an eighth of an inch overall while having the spacers against the rear rail I locate the pocket screw holes. I use a Craig Foreman to drill those holes. I know a simple Kreg jig works well. I attach a spacer with a pocket. Then the screws set the height exactly for the other spacer, an eighth of an inch higher than the hardware, the Kreg clamp holds the spacer in exactly the right place when I cut aluminum on the stop of my saw, I disengage the safety mechanism, yeah, I learned that one The hard way, the edge of a lock latch template can't be more than one-eighth of an inch thick.

Lately I started using one-eighth inch aluminum instead of steel because aluminum is much easier to work with. The fasteners must be countersunk deep into the aluminum edge, otherwise it will hit the door stop and interfere with placing the template correctly. Clamp the edge to the template so that it is perfectly flush with the top of the template so that a router will run smoothly across the top and then use a vix drill bit to drill pilot holes for the screws, drill pens, the jig are the hardest part, yes by now you would think I would have a set of stops for my drill bits.

I have it, but I can't find them. I start by making the countersunk hole from the bottom of the template, no. the top then finish the hole with a drill bit that is slightly wider than the jig pin threads, if the holes are a little tight you may want to tap the pin with a mallet, but once the threads start to appear at the top, turn the nut and tighten it until the bottom of the pin is flush or slightly deeper than the bottom of the jig. The only source I know of for stencil pens is Templaco.

Here is your web address. There aren't many options when it comes to professional lock drilling jigs. I would recommend just using a professional jig, they are a little expensive, but these things are useful for many other tasks besides just drilling locks, such as drilling extension bolts and drilling holes in doors for electric latches and deadbolts. but I will cover those topics in a later program on Advanced Techniques. I have always used a classic engineered drilling jig. It's available with carbide bits but doesn't come with templates or other fancy extras, but I like this tool because you can switch. between two and three-quarters of an inch and two and three-eighths of an inch back very quickly by simply adjusting a spring-loaded stop on each side of the templeco jig is also a very boring jig that is also available in a complete kit with everything you will need . need to install locks, including all jigs and jig locators, the only negative aspect of the templaco jig or back set stops, they must be removed to change from two and three-quarter inch to two and three-eighths inch backset sets. inch in which you can store the board stops The jig, which is one way to avoid losing them, like I said, this jig comes with everything.

These red locators make it easy to position a jig after drilling a one-inch hole for a latch or lock. There is also a corner chisel in the kit and a quick release adapter to attach the bits to your drill motor is also available for this kit for an additional charge, but they are worth every penny. An aluminum locator is included with the kit. See the lock latch installation slideshow to learn how to do it. use that tool, all standard latch jigs come with the kit, Schlage Long Latch Latch and T Latch, and all standard latch jigs are also in the kit for deadbolts and lock sets.

Making a double hook is not as difficult as many things it just takes time because it is very difficult to do later. I start by cutting a notch in the hook. I clean that notch pretty well so the burrs don't cut into the rubber when you pull too hard on the hook. I use a pair. of wooden blocks as gauges, which makes it much easier to bend the metal square perfectly straight and at the correct elevation, yes, that's a weird old screwdriver for bending the door hook section. I start by making a right angle leaving a three-quarter inch tab. in the vise, I'll drill the holes and attach the rubber to that tab later.

I use a one and a half inch gauge block to prepare the first bend, which is the riser that forms the back of the door hook. I use a two inch block. gauge block to set up the next curve that forms the mouth of the exterior door hook section. Next I measured two and a quarter inches from the front of the hook, the extra three quarters of an inch is for bending an angle in the front jaw. Cut a piece of aluminum about a half-inch wide and clamp it to the top of the hook before drilling the two bolt holes.

After that, assembly goes very quickly. Honestly, this is the fence system we used to use. It worked very well. Disadvantages when You're running down a detour and you've just ruined everything you've done. We used this for remodeling and door railings for years. We wouldn't use it now with the Lucite festival template once you've set it up, you don't have to. Don't worry about drift or hire someone who is actually trained to do the job abroad.