GM TRUCK OWNERS! LAST TIME YOU WILL EVER BUY FRONT END PARTS AGAIN!!

Guys some of the tools I

will

be using in this video today but olight actually sent me a flashlight to use in the video this is their newest version of the sr1 flashlight in fact they sent me two more this is the open 2, which is blue and Also, this is the brass edition flashlight. They are actually doing a flash sale on these too. If you are addicted to flashlights like me, I

will

leave that link in the description. Welcome back, thanks

again

. We just ran our first test. with the duramax after we install the kryptonite products we will show you exactly how to install it but before we do anything what is your first impression now compared to when you first started driving this

truck

before we did all these upgrades?

Oh, it's a hundred

time

s better I'm not hearing the rattle like I was saying uh, there's no clumsy noises or we'd approach a stop sign and we'd like to type iron, start ringing and stuff. My impression was probably stupid, but that's pretty good, that's right, but You'd have to turn the steering wheel for it to stop, it was very strange, so yeah, there's a lot of weird stuff happening, but yeah, much better, it won't do anymore that. Let's go ahead and tear off the entire

front

end. This

truck

today is going to be pretty informative, but you're not just going to see it through to the end and my camera went off so we're going to get my cell phone back.

We're going to take this truck for a test drive at the end of the video, so be sure. Make sure you watch, this is an amazing and exciting video. Make sure they are attentive. Let's go ahead and rip almost

ever

ything off the

front

of Wife Max. It will correlate from anything from an 01 to a 2010 2500 HD. but it will be very similar to all if style chevy silverados and gmcs. Today we're going to install some of the best products on the market for these trucks and I'm going to show you guys exactly what I have, so I probably watched the full unboxing video with my wife and I when we took all the stuff out of the box.

This company is called Kryptonite and

again

, I truly believe this is probably one of the best things you will

ever

find on the market. address link right here, this thing is solid. If I had to choose one, I would definitely choose the Kryptonite HD suspenders. These things are huge and will also go with the kryptonite front wheel bearings and the reason I chose them is because I use them. on my red truck with crazy stupid offsets, I'm talking like negative 76 offsets, yeah we're running some pretty heavy wheels, these are the Anthem series EQ, 20

time

s tens, negative 24 offsets, they sit on the tires Armstrong, the dogs of the desert, to be exact.

In fact, I'll leave a link in the description for all of these brands right here. I actually have a coupon code for tires. It will save you 15 off a really good tread, those are mts but what I'm trying to say. These are 12 and a half wide. These front wheel bearings are actually designed to take abuse and this is exactly why I chose these and will also be installing this huge pitman arm as well as the idler bracket and idler arm. a type of duramax and you are looking at this this is a 2011 hydro boost from a duramax lml it is new it is an ac delco part whether or not it will fit a gm truck model 01 to 2016 it definitely gives you much better stopping power than the old school

last

but not least these muscular upper control arms with bolt on kryptonite ball joints which is really cool and what I love about these is that once they eventually start to wear out you just unscrew them and you put a new one.

Just incredible the manufacturing, the welding that goes into all of this, all of this is made in the United States of America. The pieces fit much better and not only are they much stronger and you really get your money's worth when you install things like this. you're never going to have to worry about changing it let's stop talking let's go ahead and get to work I'm going to show you exactly how to install all of this let's go ahead and get all of this out of the way this will be an 18 millimeter on the calipers and then the caliper bracket will be 22 millimeters.

Remove all this. I'm going to go ahead and remove the caliper to take all the weight off this knuckle because this is all going to come out right here. go ahead and get started while we're at it we're going to go ahead and replace the front brake pads and rotors because they look horrible this is a 36 right here it's going to take the CV axle nut off a little clip here and this goes all the way to the sensor speed, so once we've done that, we're going to remove these four bolts behind here, perfect, since we're already there, 21 millimeters, this is going to be the tire rod that we're going to put on.

Replacing garage mechanics like the 98 percent of you who watch your garage channel. If you just have a small air tank with some compressed air like that, these are only a dollar in port shipping, so I suggest you go ahead and eliminate all of this. Removes rust and flaking, as well as all brake dust. What's really useful is one of these little angle grinders. Again, port transportation costs like $15. If you're an average Joe like me, you're not going to use it. these every day, so they work great here you have these little discs, these little sanding discs and you just screw them on, you just screw them on by hand, that's it, it's very simple.

I'm going to go ahead and remove the steering knuckle from the upper control arm using an 18 millimeter ratchet wrench just get under there of course remove the lock pin that's already there which I already did. The upper control arms are preloaded so move your face, hands and arms away and go ahead and get a little pry bar, I like to go ahead and just hit it with a hammer like that, see how it exploded real hard, gotta be careful, oh, by the way, I left the nut right there, I went ahead and left it on, so when you do that the thing just doesn't explode on you, you know, it doesn't come at you, so that's it and then just remove that, probably You may not be able to catch it on camera, but I actually marked where the wheel bolts sit with the washers and then of course you're going to have to take them out because they're in there okay that's it guys we're going to go ahead and put all these pieces of side by side and we'll compare everything once I actually get all this stuff out. in front of the truck we're going to go ahead and remove the center link and this is your tie rod and it's connected, of course, to the center link.

I'm going to go ahead and remove the shock absorber right here, your pitman arm is connected to your steering. gearbox this is 22 millimeters go ahead and remove that here is your idler arm it's also 22 millimeters so go ahead and close those two you may need a shim like a pickle fork or something right in between here to bust that knuckle over there. do that for the pitman arm too, go ahead and just separate the two and once you do that, this whole center link with the stays will drop down, ah, right here, and that will take the whole bracket and arm off the idler arm. .

So I'm going to remove the steering gear box with the pitman arm because I'm going to replace all of that. There it goes, but there are lines connected to it, so I went ahead and lowered it so I could access the top. From the lines, I'm going to go ahead and remove those instructions that say the kryptonite plate needs to face the front of the vehicle, so it will be installed like this. I'm on the passenger side, so let's plug this in right now. take that calculated nut, go ahead and screw it under and then put the cotter pin in there and you should be good to go, it'll look something like this, just go ahead and bend the tabs right over the nut, there we go.

Go ahead and install the wheel bearing, align the splines. I also use anti-seize on the shaft here so it doesn't get stuck if I end up having to remove it, that should do it right there and then we'll move on. Go ahead and install our four bolts that you're looking at is the original material versus the upgraded kryptonite material. This is exactly why I emphasize upgrading your front suspension

parts

if you have a GM truck. These actually have sleeves, but I did remove them. They are just pencil thin compared to the upgraded kryptonite braces, these things are much stronger, look at the difference, it's amazing, so I'm not at all worried about anything being problematic, not just that it's a soldered plate that is going to be welded. on the frame, actually what it's going to do is bolt it to the existing bracket that it would initially sit on and then once you do that you're going to weld it right there, this is going to be your stock pitman arm versus your upgraded arm. pitman arm and again look at the difference, always ranting about these wheel bearings, I absolutely love them, never had any problems and again never have to worry about replacing them the construction of the upper control arms is extremely strong, imagine they are polyurethane bushings and it also has the grease circuits, make sure they are facing forward once you install them as far as maintenance goes, I'm not worried about them

last

ing the life of the truck, not just giving them more adjustment settings when they go to do it an alignment especially for some of you that are running something 33 or higher, as I understand it, this center link right here, if you buy this you should buy it, which there will accept a larger diameter to be able to fit the center link now that I have shown a comparison, tell me what you think in the comments.

I think it will be bulletproof in the front. There will be some things that I will be missing, for example, unfortunately I didn't buy shock absorbers, but I will get them. For that I will install new shock absorbers. What I forgot were the stabilizing links. I always forget to do that in a later video. I'm going to go ahead and change those things because I know you guys are going to tell me. To replace them on the bracket and arm, basically just go ahead and line up the holes installed there. One thing I would recommend is using a pry bar so you can work your way back just to line up the holes as well.

I also use the rubber holder to get it in because this thing here is pretty tight and basically what you're going to do is go ahead and slide these bolts all the way in. Go ahead and just polish all of this onto the frame and go ahead and put the welds around there. You can also drill holes through the frame completely and drive in some bolts. Now install this here and then we'll go ahead and get to. the steering gear box the steering gear box what i went ahead and what i did first i put the pitman arm right on the center link and then i put the steering gear box on just to simulate it with all the holes and so Of course, I made sure everything was okay.

In a straight line, the wheels straightened out, everything was pretty centered and then I lined it up with the splines, so I just put it all in there, mocked it up, then took it out with the splines and now I'm going to go ahead and just drive. Get it in and we'll go ahead and install the steering gear box. I'll give you guys a little snapshot of what it looks like. Here's your big old center link rod and there's your center link, going through some pretty beefy stuff. I say it. it fits great if it's perfect so now all the hard stuff has been installed luckily this is going to be a little easier for me you're replacing the hydraulic boost right now this is going to improve my braking big time.

I'm installing a 2011 to 2016 LML brake booster. It's not cheap with this one. It's not a good idea. You want to move forward and achieve something that is good. What I'm trying to say is don't remanufacture it. unit but it's pretty simple to install just remove the brake pedal clip and also the brake abs sensor will be here as well or the brake switch and then you'll have four nuts that will be inside the cabin. I'll show you guys here in a second, of course, you're going to go ahead and remove the two nuts that are installed on the master cylinder.

They will also have their two lines that connect to the actual steering gear box, let's move on. and start this, this here is a 17 and this here is a 17. so go ahead, remove that, go ahead, remove this bolt and then the one on the other side, right there, so here's your brake pedal, here just keep going. go ahead and follow it all the way up and here guys there will be a little metal clip go ahead and remove it. I'll show you how to remove it. Once you get it out, remove the four 15 millimeter nuts right there, all the And here's the clip I'm talking about guys, it's very simple, I actually sell them on the website.

I have a ton of these left, so if you want to purchase one, head to the description below. but basically what you want to do is you want to pull up on that tab right there and once you lift that tab up, you want to move it back and then just pull it out, but likeI said, use a pocket screwdriver on this one. bigger screwdrivers definitely won't be enough but yeah guys that's basically what's there done this will be the arm that will connect to your hydraulic boost with the firewall here look at the guy just a quick recap just keep going Go ahead and install the lines as well as the master cylinder nuts and bolts and you should be ready to go ahead and pull the power steering cover off, we're going to go ahead and start the truck, move it left and right, what I'm trying to do is force that fluid into the hydro boost as well as the steering gearbox, it'll get low, make sure you check it, fill it up and then keep doing the same thing left and right, keep working on the steering wheel left and right, keep checking the fluid first, keep adding fluid to the power steering fluid. tank until it's finally full, which of course you're going to check here on the dipstick and that's it guys, we've got everything installed, we're going to go ahead and install the 20 by 10 equalizer anthem wheels.

I am very excited. because finally these are the correct bolt patterns, no more using spacers. Some of you like the posture. I do that too. I will be very honest with you. I never use spacers on my wheels and tires. Overall, the work took a long time, but I took my time to make sure everything was crazy. and the bolts were tight I used anti-seize. I did everything I could to make sure this was done correctly and safely. Yes, you are ready for this test drive. Yeah, it gave you a little smoke, so we just got back from the alignment shop we just got out of. our driveway, but I've driven this thing, I'll probably say about 20 miles so far.

My overall opinion on everything after it was installed is absolutely excellent, it drives much better, the front end feels like an absolute tank and that was our goal. Many of you are wondering which steering box I went with, unfortunately I just bought one at the

parts

store. I was going to use the red head steering box, but either way it's new, which is good, it's addictive, right? Yeah by the way guys you've heard this a million times but Ryan's diesel duty turbo we have a 68 millimeter and we also have an hsp package kit it's a full wide bridge package kit with the intake on the hot side and on top of the cold side.

We have more than one hundred SNS diesel injectors. I can't thank you enough for watching the videos. Stay tuned. We have some tremendous images for the Cummins. You can't miss an episode. I am very excited. and again let me know what you think about the overall setup, if you use kryptonite products, if there is anything else on the market that I missed, it is better than this product, let me know in the comments below, I really appreciate your time, like always thanks. you both you