First Person View PC BUILD Guide! (POV)

welcome to a totally normal and standard pc

build

ing

guide

here with linux tech tips sponsored by intel and with core i7 9700k today we are going to start wait wait what are you doing right now? uh wait, what did my camera operator and I do? merge I guess it's okay, people enjoy watching all kinds of content on the Internet from a POV perspective. Oh, okay, let's get started, as always, when

build

ing a PC, we need a safe, clutter-free, anti-static workstation with all the tools we can get our hands on. We're going to need it, so we have a tray of magnetic parts, a knife, a pair of needle nose pliers, thermal compound cable ties and of course, as always, a standard multi-blade screwdriver.

The

first

thing we are going to do is get static. sure, so we're going to open up our power supply here, then we're going to turn the switch to the off position and we plug it in that way, the chassis is grounded, so every time we move our feet we're going to continue go ahead and tap it to dissipate any static that builds up on our bodies for extra points use an anti-static strap like this one from ifixit simply place the alligator clamp on a metal part of your plugged in power supply and the other end on your wrist or as I prefer to do it on your ankle this way it's great because then this strap won't get in your way while you're trying to build the next thing we're going to need is a baseplate so we'll get started.

Freeing up some space on our ESD-safe work mat, we chose the Asus Prime Z390 P because our goal is to build a high-performance gaming system but without spending money on unnecessary gimmicks, so we'll need our i Shield or for more. Going forward we will need the motherboard itself, but not so loose, so we can go ahead and leave it behind. We will need these small screws to install our SSD and finally we will need a SATA cable which would be in the case if it was new but we have used this motherboard before, I always like to use the motherboard case as an additional test bench because it keeps it away from any debris that may be on my work surface and if you don't have an anti-static work surface well, it acts like one of our CPU, as I mentioned before, we chose the core i7 9700k, unlike the 9900k, it doesn't have hyperprocessing, but for gaming since it already has 8 cores.

We're not really going to need this, it boosts up to 4.9 gigahertz and because it's a K series chip it's unlocked so we can do a bit of overclocking if we see fit, let's go ahead and install it. The

first

step is to push down on the lever. take it out and then the retention plate should move out of the way, then we'll see this little golden triangle here, we'll line it up with the dot on the corner of the socket on some motherboard manufacturers which will actually be a triangle too when we put it on. It is very important not to apply any force.

Just drop it in exactly the right place. I recommend moving it around a bit to make sure it's firmly in place next. We're going to drop this plate making sure it's clear of this little screw right here, then we go ahead and bring the arm down, take it out and place it under the retaining mechanism. This board should come off on its own. Keep that and put it inside our motherboard case because in the event that we need to return our motherboard to the manufacturer later we will need to ship it with this installed for our memory we have gone for a good low latency ddr4. 3200 from g-skill we use 16 gigs of RAM in an 8 gigs by 2 configuration, this gives us dual channel operation for better performance and gives us a lot of expansion for the future, so we could go up to 32 gigs without problems when you're lining up the memory, make sure you check the position of the notch carefully so you can see here I need to flip it over so it fits properly in the slot, pull back the tabs, remember this side probably won't.

Pull back on modern motherboards, align it, and then press firmly from both sides until you hear a click on each end. Now it's time to install our m.2 SSD. We're using a 512 gig 760p series from Intel, but the instructions would be the same, regardless you'll first want to find the m.2 slot on your motherboard. We actually have two here, one right here, one right here. Oh, okay, strictly speaking, there is a third, but you can see this one is pretty short. and it's actually marked right there, it's intended for a Wi-Fi card. Next, we'll zoom in on our SSD and see that yes, okay, this is an 80 millimeter model, so that's where we want to install our bracket. post, remember that the bag that I showed you before has two pieces, one of them is a mounting post with male and female threads, come on, let's take a look at that so you can see that it screws into the motherboard there and then it has a screw. on top and the other is a small screw to secure the drive, you are unlikely to end up using a lot of force when installing your ssd so just hand tightening it is fine as far as the drive itself being installed. just like laptop memory, so you come up at an angle, push it into the slot and then hold it in place while you screw it in.

Something to keep in mind, guys, is that while most computer screws are size 2 Phillips, these are generally size 1, so you'll probably need to change the bit before finishing the installation, so That's it, but I have a couple more notes about installing m.2 on our board. Both slots were easily accessible, but this is not always the case. In case some motherboards have m.2 slots on the back, this is a space-saving feature and in some cases, even if they are on the front, they will be covered by a heatsink or cover, so you can actually need to remove the screws to find them.

Those heatsinks are actually optional, they don't tend to help the unit dissipate a ton more heat than if they were just exposed and maybe have some incidental airflow from the case, but what do they do? Will they act as a heat absorber like a heat absorber if your drive is only used intensively from time to time? Now let's focus on cooling. We've opted for the Noctua Nhu 12s for its excellent balance of reliability, performance, cost and of course, silence, but if you don't plan on doing any overclocking you can of course save money by choosing something a little less expensive.

Actually, if you want to save money and still get the same performance, you can just get the no. -black, but this is the ltt edition, so there was no way we weren't going to accept that each cooler's installation will vary slightly in the details, but with this video and of course the included documentation, you shouldn't have it . any problems with this first we will need our backplate, the orientation of this is pretty easy to determine once you know the guiding principles, just check where the hole is centered and line it up, so flip it every time you handle it.

Your motherboard be careful handling it by the edges or the metal components or the plastic connectors that way you will never touch the PCB or apply greasy skin oils to it because each CPU socket has a slightly different profile that we are going to need . These four spacers ensure that we don't have too much or too little mounting pressure once our cooler is installed. The orientation we use to install our mounting bars will determine which direction our cooler will end up so we can install it. with the fan blowing upwards making use of the exhaust at the top of our case or we can install it with the fan blowing towards the back of our system where the i o is and make use of the pre-installed fan at the back of our case Let's opt for a front to back airflow configuration, so I'm going to prefer to put it this way, which means our mounting bars will be like this.

Note that the curved side comes out regardless of what spacers or backplates you use. By using these four nuts to hold the mounting bars in place, we won't need most of the rest of these hardware, but there are a couple of things in the common parts bag that may come in handy. These small wire clips allow you to install a second fan on your cooler if you wish, the low noise adapter limits the maximum RPN of the included fan if you want an extremely quiet experience. Snare drum head and of course what we were really looking for was the thermal compound, it's actually harder than you.

I think applying too much thermal compound, at least from a performance perspective, can definitely cause a disaster, so on a conventional CPU like this that has a relatively small integrated heatsink, I would highly recommend it and remember if you don't. Sure you can always install your cooler, give it a little smooth and then take it off that way you know if you have the right amount, as you can see we've pretty much gotten the entire ihs covered and there aren't any parts stuck on. Along the edge of the CPU, I guess we went a little bit ahead of ourselves, so to install the cooler you're going to need to remove the fan because otherwise there's no way to screw this in here, so just go ahead and pull. these clips back and the fan should come loose a little like this.

I recommend lining up one of the screws exactly in the right place, maybe giving it a half and three quarter turn so it locks in place and then going ahead and lining up the other ones on the post, there you have it once they're both locked in. , don't lower one all the way and then start with the other. I usually like to go until I feel a little resistance and then pass. that point on the other side and a little bit more over here that's finished and all the way down here we go once they both reach their stops, you'll know that the increasing pressure is right, nice, small and soft, then we can move on. and install our fan so that when you put it in, watch where the fan cable comes out because you'll want it to be a little bit close to where the CPU fan connector is on your motherboard, in our case it's this. one here and this one is for an aio pump, so let's go ahead and install it something like this, we're going to try to install it evenly, there you go, lining up the fan with the top of the heatsink. there and we just put them back into the retaining notches on the refrigerator like that, yeah, that looks uniform.

Now we take our fan, you can tie it with a small knot so that it takes up any extra slack that we have let run. that down there and see if we can see if we can hit that, yeah, that's fine, now we'll just put it away so we don't have to look at it, go in there, go in there, yeah, something dirty there, that's nice. and clean and looks good now you may not have noticed, but as we move forward I have been saving all the extra accessories and packaging for the pieces we end up with, that's for a very good reason: it means we don't have to cleaning up all that stuff last and b keeps our workspace nice and tidy so we're less likely to knock something on the floor and lose it or make a mistake, we chose the 460x rgb from corsair because it looks kind of nice, which It's always cool when you make a video about something and it's a pretty standard design compared to most modern case side panels, regardless of whether they're tempered glass they always go back into the case until we're ready. for them later that way you can avoid scratching them so if we look here we have a bottom mounted power supply in this case with a front input with cover standard atx design here with filter and then we are running out the part top or the I think this case has been used before.

I'm not sure if these fans are normally pre-installed up there, but don't worry about minor details, we'll figure it all out while I'm removing the pre-installed screws. Wait, I'm going to return this here. I always like to use the case foam between the case panels so they don't rub against each other. There we go, you'll notice that I'm taking all the I'm removing the screws from the box and putting them in my magnetic parts tray. If you don't trust yourself to remember where everything came from, here's a little pro tip on the right panel, look and they'll stay exactly where I put them. to try to do some basic organization before I even start putting anything in the case, so here I'm just removing the cable management clip that was pre-installed on my front panel connections.

I can also explore my board layout and make sure. that everything I can is already pre-run to where it needs to go, so USB 3 is down here on the bottom edge orhere on the right, when I can get away with it, I actually prefer to use this one, I think. It doesn't look that ugly, for those who aren't familiar, this is what the USB 3 connection looks like. You can see that it actually has a key on one side and then there is a blank pin that corresponds to the key in the slot and , of course, the blank pin in the slot there now there are only two more things that we can pre-run before installing the motherboard, any integrated rgb, so in this case we have a lighting controller that actually not only controls rgb but also speed control for our included fans as well as a hub for it which includes a sata power connector which is already close enough to our power supply which is a perfectly good place for it and of course our fans.

Now I said before that we were going to reposition them, so why not? Aren't we going to go ahead and do that? Strictly speaking, there was nothing wrong with our top-rear exhaust setup with a filtered intake, but we're going to be using a pretty power-hungry graphics card here, so being able to give it some fresh air will definitely be a plus. , especially considering that modern graphics cards perform better when they have better cooling, so I'll bring one of my two fans. Run the cables through the bottom here and I'm going to install it as an intake fan here along the bottom that will cool my hard drive and blow some cool air into the power supply area like for my second drive.

I'm going to go ahead and put it here and I'm going to run my wires through this hole right here. Now we have to remove the front panel in many cases, this involves just grabbing the bottom and giving it a hard pull, but in this one you actually have to unscrew them, now we remove the magnetic filter, we get our screws back, we have these slots instead of just holes, so if we wanted to make small adjustments to their location, we would be If you can do that, you may notice that the screws on your fan are a little harder to fit than others, which is normal.

These are self-tapping screws and what they actually do is kind of shred the plastic as they go through it. Let's filter back to what I'm doing now with the fans: I'm untangling the cables. I'm doing it so my rgb cables and my power cables don't cross because the rgb ones do. They're both going to go to the same place here on the bottom right and the energy is actually going to go up here and here. This is really important. Before installing the motherboard, you'll want to explore where the fan power is. The connectors are on the board now, I like to see them along the bottom edge here or the bottom right edge here, which makes it particularly easy to install bottom or front fans.

Unfortunately, this board is a more expensive option and has the fan connections here and then. uh yeah, there was one more, it's labeled pump i o, but okay, we can still put a fan in there, so our rear fan we're going to connect to this one and then our two front fans, unfortunately we're going to connect to these two. That means our cable management is a little more complicated because we don't want to just drag them all over the board, so we're going to go under the motherboard and then up here for a nice short run.

That's why I'm running these guys right here while I'm trying to get in there anyway, now it's time to install the motherboard to do that, first we're going to need the i o shield. I always recommend checking them before putting them in the case and making sure the tabs on the back are bent up enough to allow the port through, otherwise they can get stuck in the port, cut and even fried, so We'll do a quick sanity check to make sure we've got you oriented. correctly, yes everything looks good, now we install it on the back of the case by lining it up and then pressing on each corner in turn, once it's in they should no longer move at all.

The last thing we need to check is if the correct standoffs are installed in our case, this one is pretty good, it actually has the standard nine ATX pre-installed including one of these handy little knots that will hold the board in place while you screw the rest on. , but that's not always the case, sometimes you'll just have these other six times, you'll have Matx dividers pre-installed and that's the most dangerous because if you have an extra divider that scratches the back of the board, it can actually cut. These traces destroy your motherboard and you will not get warranty coverage for that, to check this we simply lift the board, handle it by the edges, the plastic connectors, the backplates, anything else you can get a firm grip on.

I really like holding the CPU. cooler because assuming you have one with a decent mounting mechanism that is a really secure handhold as you go down the dash, I like to have it at about a 10 to 15 degree angle as I slide it toward the back of the case that It helps me avoid those tabs I mentioned before and also prevents us from scraping the back of the board along any spacers that may or may not be in the right places, now we're going to use that little nub to hold it down. Place and look through each hole and make sure we can see exactly the amount of matchups we expect to see.

In fact, you can see here that our board doesn't need these three. It's a little thinner than the standard ATX for bonus points. We could remove them from the case, but since they don't actually touch the back of the board, there's no safety reason to do so, so I'll leave them in now that we know everything is fine. Actually, I'm just going to take it out again and then I'm going to pre-wire my upper fans here that way I can make sure my runs are nice and tight and clean. We're not going wrong there, let's go ahead and screw the board together with the motherboard screws and any additional standoffs you may need are always included in the hardware that comes with your case.

We'll be using these 632 thread button heads right here and if you're not sure you have the right thing you can always just hand thread one on and as long as it goes in easily you know you're not going to over thread, don't over tighten these guys once start silencing the resistor, give it maybe another 16 turns, maybe an eighth of a turn that's it and look what's inside now I know what you're thinking great now that the motherboard is in we can put the graphics card in there no now actually on this motherboard uh the graphics card would interfere with surprisingly few other things we need to connect to, but it still makes our lives easier if we first connect all the things we can to our motherboard, so let's make our USB connector 3.

Now these have very fragile pins so you need to get it in the right position. just before we apply pressure, you should hear a little click and we can go ahead and run the rest of the cable behind it. Cool, don't try to bend it too much guys, if you bend it off your board then it's dead, you can move on. and run the rear fan power connector here, you can see I'm putting a three pin fan connector on a four pin header, that's fine, just point it at the right front panel, the audio looks like a USB connector, except instead of having a blank connector.

The pin at the end is the second to the end, so we're going to go ahead and you know, find a place for the route which here looks pretty good and then we want to take it there, we go right at the bottom right. from the back and then it's bottom left from the front because on most motherboards nowadays that's where the header is so we just find the blank pin, line it up and bippity boppity there it is, not really we have front USB 2 in this case, but if we did, it would connect the same way right there.

One of the most delicate parts of building a modern computer is, of course, the front panel lights and switches, now in a perfect world. I would love to mention them. right below where the front panel header is, but unfortunately I have to bring it over here or over here, so I guess I'll go this route if you're stuck with exposed wires, one of my old favorites. The trick is to put them in a little braid, so I'm going to treat two of them as one, that other way we can see where everything is going. Many modern motherboards have them labeled, but there are some general rules.

You can follow that the positive pin tends to be towards the left, so here we can make the LED of our hard drive, which you can see on the bottom left, the first positive pin. Next on the left is our power LED. In many cases these will be separated into individual pins. because some motherboards have them next to each other, others have a gap, this board actually has both options, you can put them next to each other here or have a gap there, I tend to put them right on top of my hard drive, now our The reset switch goes on the bottom right next to the LED on our hard drive.

This one doesn't have a positive wire indicated because it doesn't matter, it's just going to short those two wires, same with the ignition switch that goes right above that one now. It's time for no, I'm just kidding. Install the hard drive. There are now as many hard drive mounting mechanisms as there are stars in the sky, so there will be some variations here, but I can give you some general rules that Corsair is using. a sled based design here you can actually see there are holes right here if you had a two and a half inch drive like a sata ssd and then they use a tool-less mechanism to screw in, don't screw in, just pop in the holes on the side from the hard drive, so you will have some sort of sled based system that screws into the bottom or sides or without tools does the above.

Now we go ahead and slide this in until it clicks. Then we take sata data. cable, so this will be in your motherboard case. You can see there is a locking mechanism on one side and it's sort of L-shaped. That little dot goes down on the unit. You can check the encoding and make sure it's correct there. put it until it clicks, we can go ahead and run this here and then to the corresponding connector on our motherboard. Another thing that varies wildly from case manufacturer to case manufacturer is the method of installing these bottom covers.

You can see here that I'm not going to be able to install my power supply without removing it first, so in this particular Corsair case we're going to need to remove this thumbscrew that's holding it in place, in fact one may have to go give me a second. here, oh no, just one and this one can be slotted in, there we go, which gives us a good

view

of the filtered input for our power supply as well as the mounting holes here on the back since we're done with Handle most ESD sensitive devices. components of our build we can go ahead and just place them somewhere where it doesn't really matter and install our power supply.

Now I'm going to go with the fan down because this case has a lot of room at the bottom to draw in fresh air and You know I'm going to be a smart, responsible computer owner and not leave it on a rug for some reason. There are screws on the back of this power supply that are not normal. You will now find the mounting screws on the power supply case. While placing it, we can simply place it down, push it towards the motherboard and then slide it towards the back of the case. You may notice that on the back there will be some extra mounting holes here that you're not using.

Normal, that's in case you want to mount your PSU in the other orientation. Personally, I can't think of too many reasons to do it that way in a case like this, unless maybe you want to use your PSU's fan. power as an exhaust fan if you had a heat generating component like here or something but generally speaking this is the way you want your power supply cables to go they are usually found inside a little baggie in the box power supply here are the modular cables we are going to need for our build, starting with the 24 pin, named for its 24 pins, at least on this side, so the split connector which is for the supply end power and this will go to our motherboard, see this little clip here that corresponds to that little clip. on the side, this requires a little force, so if you can, I would recommend putting a little back pressure on the back of the motherboard.

Let's go ahead and pass this through ourCable management grommets. If you have our 8-pin eps connector, you can tell the difference between it and an 8-pin pci express connector in several ways: one is that if it splits, it will split into four and four instead of six and two. and the second way is that many pci express connectors actually have the space between two of the pins jumpered uh, I think it's these here, you can tell there's still a little space because it's six plus two, but hey, whatever. pass, sometimes also Tag it with help of CPU so that it goes this way again, it attaches to the hooks until it clicks into place.

I find the best way to manage the cables is on top of the motherboard or then it will go down the back until you reach the power supply. For pci express the type of cables you want to use will depend on your graphics card, we are using an rtx 2080 which has one 8 pin and one 6 pin power connector so unfortunately on our modular power supply they are all six further. two, so we will end up with a couple of extra pins that we will have to store somewhere, but the good news is that we can use a single cable to connect it so our graphics card works. go to our top pci express slot, which is the one that is electrically 16x, which means we're going to go ahead and run this bad boy, let's say it's over there, that'll give us a good direct opportunity to get to it now that you can run it.

Through the basement we can take a look at it later, but I

person

ally prefer this cable management, so ultimately we are going to need sata power for both our hard drive and our integrated rgb controller, this connects to the drive with the little teardrop facing down just like the data connector did once again though guys be careful this is a fragile connector push it right in there we go and then the second one will connect right here to our rgb hub just like that with With all of our cables installed , we can focus our attention on routing them optimally, so what I did here was find the rgb connector for my top fan, so it's going to go to slot number two of the rgb controller just like that and then to my bottom. fan I'm going to use slot 1. that way if I want to apply some effect on iq or whatever the case may be, I'll be able to go from one to two or three, those are my three rgb fans that I have installed.

My power connector for this, I'm just going to put it back in here, making sure it still has enough room. There we go, my side panel will fit. Make sure you don't put any pressure on the sata data. connector, it is always important to be careful where you write your 24 pin connector. This is the largest Python cable on a typical computer, so if you run it here you'll see that you won't be able to close the side panel. What we want to do is pass it down and through places where we have enough space. We can store the excess in the basement, as conveniently our box has a nice covered basement.

We can also run our graphics cable there. try not to cross our cables here that way they'll lay flatter and then put them in the back, we can go ahead and tie some of these together. It's pretty typical to find disposable cable ties like these in your power supply package or your case or both, but if you want to tie a larger package together, I would recommend getting some of these Velcro ties. In fact, we have our own available at lttstore.com. I always love when cases include these nice little loops for cable management, it basically costs nothing. implement and it's a great added convenience when you're trying to build on top of them, the key to a decent but not too time consuming cable management job is to simply make sure none of your cables cross each other, that seems useful to me, so So now we're going to go ahead and finish up the connections on the other end of our power supply.

In these cases, I find it easier to work from back to front, so those are our six pins plus two for the graphics card. here are our eight pins for the CPU. One good thing about a modular power supply is that you can pre-install them on the power supply if you find it difficult to access them after the fact we can go ahead and make our 24 pins now. get that sata connector out of the way, finally we have our little six pin for sata that goes here or really any of these points on this end of things, if it fits then it seats, we'll start by taking the two out. pci slot covers which are right below the 16x slot that we're going to use to install our graphics card so you can see what I mean down here so this one no.

These two newer graphics cards have a double-width backplate. supports additional I/O and also just the thicker coolers they usually need. Now it's not strictly necessary, but we can prepare the slot by moving that tab back and then we'll hold our card on both ends because we're going to want to. To apply even pressure as we push it down into the case, I find it easiest to line up the i o first and you can always check that by looking down on this side you know you want to make sure of a couple of little things like these tabs.

They don't stay here because then they won't get into little things like that and if all of that looks reasonably well aligned and you turn this way, look through these gaps, if you can see the holes, it's probably in the right place. and then finally check to make sure the back tab on the card is seated correctly, everything looks fine to me and that's it, if this locks back into place which it seems to be, then your card is installed, let's move on and let's put the screws. something to keep in mind here guys is that some cases don't fit screwdrivers very well, you can see mine doesn't fit here, do yourself a favor, start with your thumbs and then finish with the screwdriver, that way you can make sure.

Don't accidentally cross it now we'll go ahead and put in our pci express connectors. You can see that these six plus two can be a little bit tricky, they have a little kind of block there that makes it so that if you put it down there, you can push everything in and the two pins won't accidentally come out, so we'll go ahead and these won't They're super flexible, some power supplies improve their efficiency in a kind of I don't know. You could call it a bit hacky by putting capacitors in the wires. You can see that this one does that and tends to make the cables a little less flexible.

Get a nice orange accent. ltdstar.com oh, one more. Guys, GPU sinking is a problem where the kind of back of the graphics card can tend to sink because it's only really anchored on this side and then through the slot and that's one of the reasons why. I like to place my PCI Express cables. up here across the top because of the rigidity of these cables and if you handle them nice and tight, they can give it a little bit of support and keep it from looking like it's falling over, let's go ahead and dump our basement. cover back in place this one is held in place by clips so we're just going to line them up and slide them back looking good and then the second one is a combination of clips and then that screw and now we're surprisingly close to being ready for testing , we can go ahead and put our filter back on top of the case, we can take our front panel and reinstall it and we're pretty much ready to test it, so we'll go ahead and plug in a network cable. keyboard and mouse display port to our monitor, here we go, any of these are fine, then finally the power cable from your power supply goes in, don't forget to turn this to the on position, otherwise, They could press the button for the moment of truth. and uh nothing will happen, it's not a bad looking little system, if I did it again I'd probably move the rear fan to the front, it does look a little unbalanced, but from a cooling perspective this setup is perfectly fine , so I'm just removing here to go into the uefi bios and see everything looks normal 9700k, the 16 gigs of RAM shows that it's not running at full speed, so let's press f7 to go into advanced mode, go into ai tweaker and what the hell. let's see if our xmp profile manages to do something here oh, that's interesting.

I don't think that's the memory kit I intended to use. I thought it was a 3200 cl-14 kit. I have two devices that don't match here? Oops, these are not matching devices in a moment, please no, it's okay, we better put our Windows installation USB here, so now that everything looks correct here, let's just boot up and use boot override to start from our USB device. We've preloaded it with Windows 10 and hit Enter then we basically follow the prompts now that Windows is installed we'll get the Asus q installer that pops up we probably don't want any of these utilities and let's go ahead and install the drivers while we wait we can head over to nvidia.com, go to the geforce drivers section, select the rtx 20 series, this doesn't really matter, but whatever it is, there you go and then we'll select the dch. drivers now that all of our asus drivers are ready and we have rebooted we can go ahead and install the nvidia drivers that we downloaded earlier while you are installing the drivers it is actually a good time to go into the task manager and see if your cpu is working properly because it tends to to be a one or two threaded application, so we were throttling up to around 4.6 4.7 4.8 gigahertz, that's about what we would expect now that we have all our drivers installed, although we can make sure that the system It's working as we expected, so I'll go ahead and turn on Cinebench r20.

This is not the be-all and end-all of benchmarks, but what it will do is tell us what our CPU is running at and if our performance is within the range that we would expect for the CPU model, we have all eight threads clearly running, CPU usage is at 100 and we're throttling to a nice and healthy 4.57 gigahertz, our fans kicked in a little bit but everything is fine within reason. If they were noisier than we'd like, what we could do is install the Asus fan control software and set a custom curve, although you can see we exceeded our short term boost limit so we're at around 4 .25 gigahertz, still pretty healthy.

I also want to know if my graphics card is behaving normally so let's do some skin marks okay so obviously it wasn't a full computer recording set or anything like that but what we know now is that at least no artifacts or anything, yeah, it's probably good. Enough that we can at least close the side panels right now, all that's left is years and years of gaming and look at this guys, we're getting over 250 frames per second in CS, go all out basically man, That is something good. realism right there it's so realistic I can't look oh that was weird wait this was all just a dream it couldn't have been because here is the computer we built thanks for watching guys I hope you enjoyed our

guide

POV PC construction, massive scream.

We thank Intel for sponsoring this video and of course our other hardware partners for providing all their parts, so you got the Corsair G-Skill Asus and I guess we had a Seagate hard drive in there too. Guys make sure you are subscribed and if you have. You might still not check out one of our previous build guides where you might not get the POV experience, but you'll definitely get a more macro look at some of the finer details, for which we'll have one linked below. Thanks to Intel once again for sponsoring this video. Intel actually has a great step-by-step guide with pre-built checklists and tips on how to build your first gaming PC, and we'll have it linked in the video description.