FASS or AirDog? - Duramax Lift Pump Install #duramax #diesel #torque

Let's

install

a

lift

pump

on a Duramax. I'm

install

ing a quick one, but it's almost exactly the same for an air dog and I'll show you the difference. Do you need a

lift

pump

? Well, maybe this is 2006 LBZ Duramax 2001 to 2010 did not have.

diesel

fuel lift pump virtually every other

diesel

truck ever built had a lift pump Cummins lift pump Power Stroke lift pump Tracy lift pump and if a truck does not have a lift pump to push the fuel to the fuel pump high pressure injection, high pressure injection The pump has to suck fuel from the tank and that's sometimes okay, so here's the deal at moderate power levels and if everything else in the fuel delivery system works Correctly, a CP3 can filter enough fuel to operate the engine properly, but over the years the fuel lines, fittings and fuel seals can begin to degrade and leak air and you start to have problems.

No start, slow start, rough idle, low power, high blood pressure, basically when the fuel level starts to drop there is enough negative pressure in the fuel system. The fuel actually comes out of the line and into the tank, so when you try to start your truck, it is sucking in air. The most common cause of those symptoms is a faulty fuel filter or a fuel filter housing that has air and leaks and needs to be repaired. being rebuilt is cheap and easy to do I already did it on this truck a lift pump does not solve the causes it only covers the symptoms it will eliminate the symptoms so I don't care anymore or it will show I wonder where the real problem is and I agree with either.

It's a step in the right direction. This truck usually always starts but will idle rough and then have no power, won't accelerate over 1100 RPM and there is no Rhyme or Reason for when it does, it could be 7/8 of a tank, it could be a quarter tank , it may have been set for 5 minutes, it may have been set for 5 weeks and I just can't deal with it. So here is the 2006 LBZ Duramax victim. My grandfather bought this truck new in 2006. I inherited it when he died about 2 and a half years ago. It is 175,000 Mi and is completely made of bone.

I'm not proud of that. I have performance parts, but I haven't had time to put them right, so let's talk fuel pumps. This is a fast titanium signature and it's a 165 gallon per hour model, like I said, fast Air Doog, never mind the same process. The reason I bought the quick one is because it was the cheapest. This is a weak model, so I saved about $200 over what the Air Dog was going to cost me. I like the value, they are both good products, they are almost identical and both. I have a lifetime warranty, so take your pick.

I decided to use the whiteboard for this one, so here's the deal. The 100 gallon per hour pump is good for up to 600 horsepower. The 165 gallon per hour pump is good for 600 to 1000 horsepower. 100 GPH is good. enough for most people, probably even me, but the 165 GPH is only $50 more, it's perfectly fine in a standard truck and that allows you to make more power later, so that's the direction I went in So the instructions are broken down into five big steps Wire the truck Plumb the truck Assemble the pump Plumb the pump Prime the pump and party So here's the deal: They want you to wire up the truck first so before you assemble the pump can turn it over by plugging the motor into the Fill the pump with WD40 and run the pump so that it does not have a dry start.

I'm just going to spray it with WD40 and let it sit overnight well enough for me. I'm going to wire the pump last because I'm OCD and I don't like having a bunch of extra wires in my truck, so I'm going to mount it. I'm going to run the wiring and trim the harness to size like I said. I'm OCD, do it however you want, the second step is to fill the truck. Once you mount the pump, there is not enough room to do this. That's why in step two you need to attach the supply and feed liner fittings to the truck and you need to attach the return connector to the filler neck before mounting the pump so that you have room to do this step three.

Mount the bomb I'm not a big fan of the way the instructions tell you to do it, the pictures are more or less confusing so pay attention when I do this you have to put the brackets together you have to put the brackets on the truck and then you have to combine the two well step four Plum the pump you are going to take the lines and the accessories that you put on the truck before mounting the pump and you are going to connect all of that to the pump Plum the pump step five PR the pump and the party that is the fun part I like to party and everything is in the box wiring harness fuel line various accessories fuses accessories pump mounting bracket and filters you have full color instructions online it sucks but that's how it is these days let me go ahead and put this filter system together so you can see what it's going to look like on the truck so I'll save you some time by figuring out how to put this together without looking at the instructions because the instructions don't seem to be correct this is how it's going to be put together in the front of the truck, in the back of the truck. on the driver's side of the truck, next to the bed, the front deck to the frame mounting bolt, it's right behind there, the pump will be located on the truck like this, so again, if you need any reference on how this all goes Look at this, this is not how the instruction pictures tell you to assemble it, but this is how it fits, this is how we are going to rig the supply line, you are going to take your giant roll of hose, you are going to put this fitting in one At the end you're going to put that fitting on the other end you're going to want to use a hose clamp on this side no hose clamp needed here you're also going to want to put a little bit of oil on these fittings before you try to insert them you just insert the fitting into the hose, put it on something softer than aluminum and insert the same for this one, don't be He-Man, you don't need to push this hose up to this point. rib which is what locks onto the quick connect connector, if this hose is pushed all the way in it will not be able to lock, that's all you need to get to now, we just need to tighten the hose clamp, this is the wrong tool for work uggie duy now I know it may seem strange to install it like this because it is, but you're going to install it like this and then cut it to the proper length later, now we have to get it. back under the truck and make room for Plum okay this is the fuel cooler it's on the front of the fuel tank and we need to get to that fitting over there so to do that we're going to unscrew the fuel cooler and we'll drop it.

Pull it down tight, as you can see our fuel cooler is loose. The instruction says to remove three bolts. I chose to remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the frame, that bolt goes here and there's a bolt hole right here that goes to a bolt. on the frame up here two two bolts the whole bracket comes off and now we can access this fitting we need to go to okay this is where our special tools come in you're going to need 1/2 on the quick connect tool of the fuel line. I think I bought this entire set on Amazon.

I'll leave a link in the description of all the tools and things I use in this video, so look where my /inch is and the /inch is red. For the race, well, I just hope the GoPros are diesel proof because I have diesel everywhere. Quick tip, no, don't do this with a full tank of fuel because there's science and physics and siphoning, and when you disconnect that quick connect, uh. the fuel starts coming out of the tank and keeps coming out so it was wet well you should be able to see the line here has separated.

Many people have problems with this. Mine separated. but this is a southern truck and it's been on the road most of its life so there's not a lot of dirt or rust on that quick setup to worry about so the other end of the line that should be here , I have it. routed back and stuck between the cockpit and the tank so it stops leaking fuel right here, so I'll have to do some tricks when I connect the line to that to try to stop the fuel from flowing. I don't think priming the pump is going to be a problem today, well there's my solution.

I put a hose clamp on this end that goes to the fuel tank, so once I connect it, it should stop the fuel flow. air does not pass through it, so fuel should not pass through it. Nifty Creations highly recommends that the fuel cooler be right at the front of the tank. We have our big hose reel sitting on the frame that we have one on. connected to the tank supply line and we have the other end connected to the engine feed now originally this line here was on this clip here but it's not working the best I think I can do on this The point is to put the supply to the engine hose into that clip.

We'll come back later, after we've cut all of these hoses to length and installed them on the rapid pump, and we can twist and route them. Let's do whatever we want to secure them in a good place, so this is enough for now let's go ahead and reinstall the fuel cooler. This is where the air dog and the rapid differ in the air dog system that you remove. this hose completely from the sending unit into the tank and connect this line directly to the sending unit. Now there are advantages and disadvantages to that. The advantage is that you have one less join on the line that you have to worry about leaking the profit.

By doing it this way, it is easier to separate this connection than to separate the connection on the incendiary unit and two, that's two, if you ever have a lift pump failure on the road, you can simply disconnect this quick connect disconnect . this quick connect and run the factory pipes and just take the quick out of the loop. Your factory CP3 probably isn't going to draw fuel through a bad lift pump, so you can just take it out of the system, reassemble the old lines and hit the road, you can't really do that with the air dog , so I like that aspect of Fast Plumbing.

I think I will keep it in the glove box in case that day arrives well, our return connection has to go to the filler neck between the cap and the tank, this is a directional piece, this tube is welded at an angle, the fuel it will flow in and shoot out that way you want it to shoot into the tank if you turn this the other way the fuel will shoot into the cap and if you're like me and you give fuel to the truck with the engine running when you take the cap off cover, you will have a very expensive smelly shower, bad day.

I'm going to have to assume that you guys know how to use a knife and a wrench. Remember to cut towards your friend, not towards your body. As you can see, we have it angled towards the tank. We have our hose clamps positioned and tightened. There, it's time to mount the pump and while we're down here let's talk about where the bracket for the pump is going to go, the part of the bracket that goes to the truck will mount on this bolt right here in front of the filler. By the way, hang the front deck mounting bolt, I'll only take it out 18mm when I cut that filler neck and remove the bolt. 100% safety glasses.

Safety glasses are not going to work here, let's assemble the pump, we have the Take the pump assembly apart again, we need to put two fittings on it. We have a 90° elbow to go to the supply side and we have a straight fitting to go into the feed when you put this fitting in and you're going to tighten it down, you don't want to

torque

it over and bend this straw here, so it's Better to do it with a vise, if you don't have a vise you can always wait until it is mounted on the truck to tighten it.

Lower them just saying again that the straight fit goes to the motor feed. Are you going to put the tapered side with a roof on the flared jic or one side comes out at 7/8 and says to tighten it to 18 feet. lb, so it's a 90° connector on the support fly side, the tapered side with the sealant goes in, you want to tighten it enough that it doesn't leak and with an upward facing connector, 24mm fits best. I think we can get another one. turn it on completely right now, we need to put this part of the mounting bracket on the pump, now it's going to sit like this, the motor facing this direction, the long part of the bracket going that direction, you're going to take out these two holes and this hole look how these holes are offset you need to put these spacers between the pump and the bracket to secure it with these 7/16 bolts I just hand tightened them right now to give the pump a little movement While we mount it to the truck,once we have everything set up correctly, we'll go back and put some Loctite on these

torque

s.

We should be able to see the hole down there on that fitting, we'll spray WD40 right there, lubricated. and this is the part of the frame that will go on the truck so we're going to put this rubber insulator in there to go between the frame and the bracket and the bolts will go up the bottom just like that so we've got the bracket mounted on the pump assembly, now we need to mount this entire assembly to the bracket that is on the frame of the truck, so you have four bolts with flat washers, don't forget the rubber insulator and then you have four flange nuts to Wait, okay , here is our finished product, we have the bracket on the front deck bolt, this is the sandwich configuration I ended up with, this gave me the best clearance between the leaf spring bolt and the body and the filler neck there above, that's just what I chose those 9/16 bolts and nuts, you're going to want to do that.Roundy Roundy round because as you tighten one, the others will now loosen the three bolts that hold the pump to the bracket.

I put some blue lock on those and tightened them down for good, honestly I see no reason not to just go ahead and tighten them all the way on the bench, okay that's what we end up with, they hang just a little, that's the nature from the Beast, there are other aftermarket mounts that I know of, Fab has a mount to move it like inside the frame and lifting it up is not a bad option, something I might consider later, but this will work for now, luckily my truck is white, so what the filters match, so it doesn't really stick out.

The black truck sticks out like a sore thumb you can always paint them ready to bleed and I went ahead and put the filters on loosely just to make sure there was no contamination in the pump assembly. I'll remove them again and fill them with fuel first. We try to prime it, we're going to bleed the pump, so when you're plumbing your truck, you just push these barbed fittings on the end of the hose, put some oil in there, it's as simple as pushing it down, I said. Simple, okay, maybe I had to use both hands to get it done, but here's the deal: you'll have to do this under the truck for a pair of these attachments.

I just carry a block of wood under the truck so I can put it against the frame or body on the ground and then I can press the fitting against that and I don't have to worry about messing up the fitting or the truck so this hose will go through some areas where you get a little bit of rub on the frame or body, it's not in the destroys, but I'm kind of successful so I like to put a little bit of this spiral wrap on the hose just to make sure it doesn't get rub completely.

Well, I just finished the plumbing in the fast. I'm not going to show you the whole process. I'm just going to take you there and show you what it looks like, but before we go in there a couple of things again, I like to put the spiral on. stuff on the fuel hose to make sure it doesn't get chafed and these ones here are really cool. I use them every time I'm wiring or plumbing. They are a magnetic cable tie holder and this is basically what it looks like. when you put it on a hose stick it to the truck hose or the wiring doesn't move they cost about a dollar a piece they aren't cheap but to me they are worth it because they hold everything where I want it to be. and no need to drill any holes in the truck.

I also buy zip ties, but the th000. I really like these flush cutting pliers for trimming excess cable ties, it leaves a nice smooth finish so you don't have to. worry about cutting yourself on that later, okay, so here's what we have to connect that blue hose: That giant hose loop you had there before, you're just going to throw it over the frame rail to the outside of the truck, here this. on the outside of the frame rail and run it back to your pump however you want, you just want to make sure you don't get a lot of ch in or have sharp turns again.

I have the magnetic cable tie holders and the hard coil. wrap it there to keep it from rubbing against the body or frame, there's the feed going to the front, here's the return, it goes behind the fender panel, it goes up, it goes to the filler neck, up here and here's the feeding, goes forward. the pump I ran the supply over the body mount on the frame and I ran the feed under the body mount along the body if I had fittings I would have put a 90° turned down fitting on that bottom fitting and the top fitting It would have been a 45 that would have kept the fuel line out of the body maybe one day but that's it, everything is zip tied and magnetic to the body, if that's a word, no rubbing and anywhere there is rubbing , we have the spiral wrap on the fuel. line, let's connect the pump, okay, let's eliminate this wiring.

It has a relay that makes the entire system work. You have grounding for the entire system. You have 12 volt power for your pump and then you have 12 volts for your relay. and this will go to a hot switched fuse source and to a fuse panel under the hood this end goes to the pump it's that simple I already have the relay installed in the harness I have to put this handy fancy cover there I go find a place underneath from the hood to mount it and then I'll run all the wires from that location and cut them to the proper length, we're here on the driver's side of the truck as you can see.

I mounted the relay on a stud right here on the firewall. I had to use a step drill bit to open the hole in the relay a little, but it slid out from there. You have the wire that goes to the fuse box for the hot wire of the relay. you have the wires going forward for power and ground at this junction, an AC capacitor, the rest of the harness runs nicely down the fender and you can snap it to the factory harness that runs down the frame rail once you get there. It will make a lot of sense, so here is the fuse for the hot wire to the relay.

I'm in this port here. tbc1 on, a power pump for this bolt here because it says ground. I thought the bolt that attaches it to the motor would provide a good ground, it didn't work, my pump didn't work and it took me about an hour to diagnose a bad ground and I thought I was good at wiring once I put the ground in the AC capacitor, it was perfectly fine, any excess wires can be wrapped right under the relay just make sure you don't introduce any interference with the hood hinge here, let's prime the pump, okay, I cheated by priming the filters because I have a jug of diesel out there, but here's the deal you want to install the primary filter and go ahead and tighten it, that's the suction side of the pump, you want to screw the secondary filter onto the base but don't tighten it, you want to leave it loose enough to so air can escape from the filter that way there will be no back pressure in the pump and it can suck fuel and prime the filters very quickly.

Let's talk about fuel filters for a second. The factory AC Delco fuel filter on these Durmax trucks is a four micron filter, the quick filters go down to 2 microns and there is a lot more media than you have in the factory size filter so you should be able to reach further between fuel filter changes this is how they sit in the pump this is the inlet from the tank and this is the outlet to the engine this is the primary filter it is a 144 micron filter it basically protects the pump so it filters out the water and small particles that damage the pump and injectors this is the opposite of what I am Normally the water separator is also the large particle filter and then the secondary filter only captures the small particles.

I'm not sure how I feel about this, so this is the fuel filter installed on my Excursion. The pump sucks through the primary filter which is 20 Micron, pushes through the secondary filter which is 2 Micron which is basically what everyone else in the industry does and in my opinion that is the use most efficient filter media and provides the longest life. The quick filter claims superior water separation and I'm okay with that, I run a fuel supplement into each fuel tank, the fuel supplement disperses the water in the tank so that over time it slowly passes through the injectors without them or you knowing the difference and I have never had a single drop of water.

On any of my water separators that I have removed from the truck, I personally don't think there is anything wrong with it, but I prefer the traditional 20 micron and 2 micron filter set up so realistically once the quick filters are used up. I'll probably switch to a Baldwi or equivalent filter like the one I have on my Excursion. I like standardization, so I prefer to have the same filter on both vehicles. I left the factory fuel filter in place for now, no real reason. to remove it at this point I could replace it with a fuel filter, remove the bowl in the future and that would give me a place to mount a fuel pressure sensor, well let's talk about the pump noise, the pump is extremely quiet, you can barely hear it with the engine off and in the cab you can't hear anything with the engine running, you can't hear it in or out of the truck so I've been driving with this quick system in the truck for a couple of days and it has changed my life in the sense that my truck starts and runs every time and that was the goal, no job promotion or 30 gallon MP yet but there is still time.

I'll keep an eye on my fuel economy to see if it really improves the capability of this truck. Got a pretty consistent 20 MPG on the highway over its lifetime anyway, if you got anything from the video consider liking or subscribing, maybe even tickle the notification. The bell costs you nothing and really helps me. See you next time.