Epoxy Dirty Pour Technique On Kitchen Countertops Full Tutorial | DIY Countertop Remodel Ideas

Welcome back everyone. I'm Tyler with lagari. We manufacture and sell high quality products that can transform any existing surface. For this video we used our lagari stone kit which incorporates a

dirty

pour

technique

to give this

kitchen

countertop

a natural stone look after watching this. You will be able to do it yourself now, let's get started. I'm going to show you how to mix our primer and also how to apply it, so I have pretty much all the tools and supplies you'll need. gloves, a stirring rod, our primer measuring cup, which we don't really need, it's easy to mix in two ounces of water, a roller tray, and a 3/8 nap roller that can be bent and came off when rolling with adhesive tape to remove all loose hairs.

The first thing is to put on the gloves and then open our part with a primer and it is always good to shake it a little in case something settles and we will

pour

it into a measuring cup or container. Since I have it, it only needs to be about 1 quart in size, that way you'll have enough room in there to mix it. Tilt the rear box. If you get primer on the handle here, then we'll take our Part B again and shake it up. above, this is going to be the pigmented part of the primer and we're doing a slant of the black primer to get the residue out of the handle, get most of it out and then what we're going to do is take the two ounces because you want to add two ounces of water to your kit. of primer, we'll pour it into Part B, the water and then we'll shake it and this will help get the excess primer, it's a little bit. thicker than Part A, so we'll throw the rest away and then we'll just mix this with the paint stick.

It's really easy to mix. I want to mix it for about two minutes and scrape the sides as you mix, scrape the bottom, so we're going to go over the

epoxy

surface, fill it, clean it, but the same thing you know these kits can be applied to any surface, any hard surface , so yeah, that's why it's not just bare wood, it's already been

epoxy

, but the same

technique

s and applications. It applies no matter what the surface is, so we're going to soak this roller for a second and then we'll just do a little strip in the middle and then we'll roll it out with a cross roller, so I like to do the top. first, if you have a backsplash, do the backsplash next and then do the front edges that way, without leaning over the counter and hitting the wet edges.

Now it's good to remember that this was a white

countertop

and we wanted to do the black primer or a dark counter kit, you'll probably need to coat the edges twice if you want the primer color to be as solid as possible, so if you can see a through some points or it is a little, it is not. cover with one coat too, let it adhere for about 20 to 25 minutes and then apply another coat just on your faces, basically any vertical surface, the top is not as critical because it gets thicker so keep that in mind account and make sure you can do it. place the backsplash on its faces facing any solid color vertical surface you can get and usually two coats of primer will do no matter what color you are going over, so the primer should be applied with a thin roller and then, if not.

If you can't cover the epoxy over the primer in one or two hours you should not prime it, so if this primer stays longer it will become a very hard glossy surface and it is an epoxy based primer so you should leave her sand it or make it like a wipe with denatured alcohol try to smooth it out and make it tacky so remember if you can't prime with a primer or if you can't epoxy over the primer in a few hours then probably wait until you can do that to not come back and have to sand the primer or wipe it with denatured alcohol.

Working time with the primer is about one to two hours, obviously you don't want to let it crust and sit in a bucket, but you should have no problem dipping it in and rolling it, it won't get hot in the bucket so islands They are ready. I looked good. I'm just checking for any thick edges from rolling my faces or any smudges. that are dripping, maybe it got too thick, but it looks very, very good, so we'll start with the other tops now. If you have stains that you can't remove with the roller, you can use a cheap brush to maybe cover some. from the corners, other things, sometimes when you apply primer on sealed solid Formica surfaces, something like that that you couldn't scrape or sand, sometimes you can get a separation of the primer that looks almost like fish eyes or the primer just runs off. way to separate and you can see the surface of the countertop before that, the surface that was there before let the primer stick a little bit and then just go over those spots, it will get sticky and then it won't separate like that, usually it's like silicone residue or just things that are on the counter that weren't removed, it's very simple, just let it roll over that spot a little bit and then it will cover it.

I saw decorative edges like we did with the bondo. We show them that priming is basically the same process, there's really nothing different, they just want to make sure it's really clean and then we'll apply the primer like everything else and you can see how much primer is left. We send additional primer. in case you have to apply two coats if you are covering a lighter surface with a darker primer and this is a 50 sq ft countertop so one primer kit will cover 50 sq ft. You may have to work on that a bit. a little bit more on these decorative edges once you're done priming all the

countertops

you can prime the inside edge and even under where the sink is and that will create a good barrier to keep water from damaging things like that so let's like roll the primer on this edge and then also underneath and be careful, you can see how there are thick edges up here, we want to spread them out more and then all we're going to have to do once the primer dries, we're going to tape this down. off create a barrier because we have to tape all these edges for the poor

dirty

anyway remove the plastic in case we have some runs, we are not going to put it in the sink cabinet area, so primers, you must Give it about 45 minutes. at an hour and a half, depending on the temperatures, you can already tell that this is already drying where we started, if I turned on a fan here, I wouldn't want to create dust, but if I have a fan blow some air, it will even work. faster, so keep that mind and again you just want it to get to that dry look, you can see where it's still wet it has that milky look, touch it, you're not lifting your gloves, a little wet here still, but once. that gets sticky and leaves no residue on the gloves, it's ready to cover, so we're going to let this sit for a moment and then we're going to start taping the edges and then we're going to get right into the dirty pour, okay? the next step is to tape our edges to create a barrier so the resin doesn't spill because the dirty pores get a lot thicker so as you can see the primers dry it's still tacky but it doesn't lift anything it's the perfect time to hit, so what? we want to make, we want to make sure that we're taping high enough, usually you do about half the width, that's fine, because if we tape just a little bit higher than the counter and the resin reaches the top of the tape, I'll probably fold it up and start running, so making sure we're high enough, it's never going to overflow and since we're taping our faces together, you want to make sure before you prime that your faces and edges are nice and clean , well, there is our first strip, now we are going to go through it one more time.

We want two rows of tape to give it a little more rigidity and we want to try to get about the same height with our second strip. What we're going to do is we really want to press them into the surface to get a nice airtight seal. The last thing we want is for the resin to leak out in some spots and ruin the design on top, so take the time to push it down well and the primer will continue to dry under this tape, so it won't affect the primer on absolute and then the last thing you can bend the corners a little bit, create a little bit more tension in those corners by just pinching them. a little bit okay, so Island is done, obviously we have to do that wherever we are coding.

The next thing I'm going to show you is enough plastic where your sink was so that the case doesn't drip, you know, usually your cutouts for your sinks are quite irregular, they're not very square because you can't see them once the sinks, so A lot of times the tape runs or drips here, so we'll take plastic and cover them. in here in case it drips through the tape it won't go into our cabinet if you have a gap here so it doesn't push we want to break it down push it all the way in push it in good even if they have to re-record when they're recording make sure of using the yellow painter's tape, you don't want to use blue tape, really anything else, you can use gorilla tape, but we always like to start at least with the first tape.

What we put on is yellow painter's tape, just remember it gives you the best seal and minimizes a lot of leaks through the tape. Okay, the last one, so we made the decorative border here with the bondo, so we want a little more complicated ribbon. to really try to get it all into this texture, okay guys, this is how you tape it together before the dirty, poor Tim will show you how to separate, mix all the colors and then I'll apply it and From there, get ready to mix the Paul dirty. I want to show you everything you need in preparation to get ready to mix your dirty pour countertop kits.

You'll need a five gallon bucket of course, the three gallons of countertop mix that came with your dirty pork, you'll want to get one of the drill paddles, probably a long one and a short one, we have a five gallon mixing stick. gallons, three standard size paint sticks and then we have eleven of the five quart mixing containers. eleven of the five one quart mixing containers we have a 2 to 2 quart mixing container, you can use a two and a half quart and a standard 1 quart, so 11 1 gallon mixing containers, one 2 quart mixing bowl and a 1 quart mixing bowl so we're going to have 5 colors all of these kits have 5 colors so we're going to mix up an extra batch of clear to flood the counters so the first thing we want to do is take one of these transparent ones. 4 quart containers and we will take the other 10 and set them aside for now.

I'm just going to use the two smaller containers now, we just need to make a small batch of clear resin to So we can float these

countertops

first we need about 64 ounces, so I'm going to take one of my parts and my Part B. I'm going to pour this up to 42 ounces of my Part A in the largest container, so now I have my 42 ounces. of Part A and I'm going to mix half of what is 21 ounces of my Part B. I'm going to put it in its own container. The reason I pour them into separate containers is because they don't have a mixing container that has those exact amounts, so I like to know that I'm mixing the exact amount of resin I need, so I have 42 ounces and 21 ounces of B, so the first thing I'm going to do is pour my B into my a now you can definitely use a larger container than this 2 quart one.

Two and a half quart containers are probably even more convenient than 2 quarts. They give you a little more space at the top. I'm going to turn my drill to low speed and mix slowly. What I'm doing is moving the container up and down with the drill slowly, making sure it's mixed well. I'm trying to scrape up the bottoms a little bit, the sides and no. Don't worry too much about how well you mix this, we'll just mix it for a couple of minutes and then pour it into a new container to make sure it mixes properly once we've mixed it for a couple of minutes.

I'm going to pour all this resin into a new container. The reason we do this is because we want to make sure there are no soft spots on the countertop and we also want to make sure we use all of the resin. from the container so the only way to do it is to mix it pretty well and then dump it into another container and mix some more so now we have our white mixed and ready to go on all the counters so we're going to mix this up and then place well the material for the rest of the children, so we immediately want to pour all the resin.

I'm going to show you some options on how to spread it, but before I do that, I'm going to show you how to pour it, so thisobviously it needs to cover all of your counters so we're going to start with a bead in the middle everywhere and I don't want to pour it all over. I want to be able to return. and add some points tilting it back so it doesn't drip as I go across the counters okay notice how the bead levels out a little bit so we want to try to keep it in and even in all the places it gets a little thin here so I'm going to add a little bit here, maybe a little bit here, so now we're going to go back and even them out and take into account that the islands are a lot wider than the actual countertop here, so I'm not going to want to do the same amount of beads on these other counters that aren't as wide, so this one should be a little bit bigger now, as we added the epoxy, put it in another bucket, mix it again, we can put this upside down.

Let it all drip down and we won't have any soft spots because it doesn't mix well or it has too much resident resin or too much hardener, so now we're just going to spread this out by basically skimming the entire surface with a thin coat of epoxy. You can do a foam roller and I'll show you and when I do the foam roller I'm applying pressure and it's like using it like a squeegee because if I try to roll this out it's going to take a long time so applying a little bit of pressure will go a lot further. fast, so the other option is to use a squeegee first to spread this out.

I'm holding it at a low angle so I'm not going to take it all the way out, it still leaves a little bit of resin so I like to go really fast to get it all spread out and then the other option if you don't have it. a squeegee just use a paint stick and the same thing from top to bottom, all we're trying to do is spread the bead of epoxy quickly and then we can roll it, you know, we'll just take the foam roller and we'll roll it to level it out to Let's go a little bit faster and let's spread it like this, so when you're halfway through making your blood layer clear, whoever's doing your colors start mixing them that way when you're done spreading it, you can start applying your Poor dirty designs right on the counters, that way this won't sit while you're sitting there getting sticky, so I'll finish these off with the squeegee really spreading it out. quick and if you notice that maybe you have too much epoxy or it's a lot thicker and maybe you say your island or something like that, you can always scrape a little bit into the bucket and move it somewhere where it's also a lot thinner, but that's how we have a nice thin coat everywhere, so we don't really have that problem here, but you might run into that now that we have the clear base coat that's on all the counters right now, so you're going to do this quickly, but you have plenty of time to We'll take our part A, what's left of the part A that we poured from, and our fresh part A, and we'll put them in the five gallon bucket and let them drain for a few minutes. minutes, you can always let them drain when you pour Part A for the base coat and also after you've had them face down for about 30 seconds, tip them up just to make sure everything comes off the handle, sometimes you can get some left of material stuck on the top of the handle just like we made a little mess here you always want to keep a clean workspace this is just denatured alcohol and a rag now we're going to pour our Part B into the party if you pour it in slowly Usually, It doesn't get caught in the handle, but I'll tilt it up in case it still leaks a little.

When it stops flowing and starts dripping, it's usually fine and what we'll do is we'll move the drill up and down scraping the sides and scraping the bottom with the paddle wheel. Now that we have the rest of the epoxy mixed, that's why we don't want to take too much time because at any time the epoxy will mix. It can heat up on its own, so we have five colors, all of our kids have five colors, so we're going to set up five of these one-gallon containers, what we're going to do is we're going to pour 64 ounces in.

All of these containers are sixty-four. four ounces. I'm going to scrape all the epoxy out of this bucket and put it in the last one. This one doesn't weigh exactly 64 ounces, but I have some extra epoxy on some of these so we can level them out a bit. A little bit, if you don't have exactly 64 ounces and all of them, that's okay, we just want to even them out and make sure they're pretty even. Now I have my five lots here and I'll show you the five colors. we're going to use for this kit now we only want three of our metallic colors so we have bronzer and we actually have midnight pearls and two truffles because it's always good to split your kits into multiple batches and we'll show you why.

You have to choose five colors so we're only going to want to use three colors so we did two of the midnight pearl and two of the truffles and we're also going to use some spray paint, this is Rust-oleum shiny Cambridge stone. The shiny Cambridge stone is this color so what I'm going to do is mix all the metals separately in these cubes using a smaller drill and I'm going to wear a mask just because I don't want to breathe in any other metal dust and this is much easier to do outdoors, so you don't have to worry about that so much now.

I'll put the mask on in a minute. One of the tricks when you use it, if you just want to use a drill, one of the tricks to not have to change the drill head for each color is to start with the lightest color and then mix with the darkest color so that you don't affect or contaminate the other color, so I'll start with the darker color. bronzer I'm going to go into my truffle and then we'll do the midnight pearl. Now we put in five newer buckets and we're going to do our dirty pour kits, so what are we going to do with this particular kit?

We're going to add a little bit of this spray paint to the first three and then we're going to divide our bronzer between these two and then we're going to add the rest of the color. That would be great, so we'll do it here. It's just spraying the side, so you see, I put some paint in there. Note that I didn't hold it upside down for long. You really want to keep it upright to make sure the color sprays really well, so now. I'm going to grab my tanner. I'll just pour it between these two. You don't have to leave this bronzer upside down for too long.

You can't leave it and we can use some of the colors in it. but if you definitely want to scrape it all off, we want as much of our epoxy on the counter as possible, that's what makes a messy pour kit look really pretty, so now we've split our bronzer between these two kits, now I have my two. batches of truffle and two batches of midnight pearl, so I'm going to take one of each and pour them in here together. I notice how it's making a bit of a mess, as expected, the poor and dirty kits are a bit of a hassle to prepare, but that's why you want to do it on a piece of plastic or a separate mixing station.

Now we'll clean this all up and now we have our five batches for the dirty pour. So obviously, guys, you can make your porch dirty however you want. We're just showing you how to pour and get the exact look that we're doing here and I'm also going to show you an easy way to do it. Trace your designs, the more random shapes you make when you are dirty the cooler the look you will get, so instead of just spilling like big puddles everywhere and leaving it, it will still look cool but it will always look better when you start making these Random jagged edges.

The right semicircle is just a bunch of different designs and patterns as you pour it, so an easy way to map it out is just grab a paint stick and you can run this. across the right, make whatever layout you want and this will help you know where to pour things like that right now, that's going to look really cool if we follow that shape and then obviously you can do the same thing here, maybe run a race. big one like in the middle here now keep in mind we've made them where it wraps around the corners and stuff, but natural stone usually doesn't wrap around the corner unless you specifically want to ask them to cut them. sections, so you usually don't want to take your design around the corner and things like that, so notice how I put it against the wall and then maybe go up here and run that one like this, come here. and this gives me an idea of ​​where to pour my beads.

You can see my pores properly. I don't have to follow them exactly, but if I can imitate these designs, this will look really real. Great, so we'll start, we'll start pouring out big beads, obviously the more we have in the bucket, the harder it will be to pour in smaller beads, okay, so I'm going to want to move quickly right here and I'm going to flatten this out so it's flat. and I can go back and add the right things to it. I don't want to spill too much since I started on that side, let's do a little bit here. and then maybe a little bit here and then I want to put a little bit of this same cube all over the counter, so look, I'm being very random with that, we don't have much there, I can let it sit, don't I.

It's really going to heat us up very quickly, in fact, I'm going to pour a little bit into these thin spots, not a lot when you come to pour into beads that are already outside, it's always good to start from an edge and then bring that in instead of just pouring it in. in the middle and then you have a little drop there that doesn't really blend that well, so I like to start at the edges and then turn it into that and then leave the rest there for later, so instead of doing the one It has bronzer in it, I'll make maybe two of these without bronzer and I'll save the one with bronzer in it for the last pour, so I'm going to try to get this crazy shape right now.

I have three of these. They should be pretty similar, so I'm not as worried about skipping it all over the countertops as we did in the one where I had the bronzer back on a bit. I leave it in the bucket, I can save it for later, that's not really going to heat up because there's not much in there, so I'll do the same thing on the other counter, it's like we did it there, we just start filling it. Can you see my type of pattern? Maybe I'm going to make a semicircle or almost a U shape here to break it up again.

There are many ways you can spill it. I could follow this pattern all the way. across the counter, but I personally like to make it more random the more natural it looks, you know, something to keep in mind is right, like I don't want to pour a big pile here, this is very thick, it's still leveling out. This will probably fill up so when I get to this point I want to be more precise with my pores, make thinner spots, I don't have to pour as much into some of these areas and the other thing is we want to make sure that we're pouring a similar amount all over the counter so we're on our last bucket so again I want to be more precise with the pours.

I'm going to pour a little bit here. I'll pour some into some of these. really open spots and then I'll show you how to spread that blob that spills out really wide and we'll be able to fill all the other places again, guys, this will even out and you really know a lot of this would fill up. once it levels out you can see how small it has already become, it was way too far away here when I pointed it out before, this will probably fill it up on its own so I'll start and show it to you and you can always add, like I say, if I want to put more spray paint here, I can take that spray paint and we can spray it directly into our last pour if we want to get more of those effects, so now we'll grab the cardboard and let's go. pour over the cardboard and let it drain and that will give us a wide, basically wide pour of the dirty pour.

When you do this, you are basically trapping air between the epoxy and the poor, dirty epoxy you are putting in. outside so we get more, we'll get bubbles where we're doing this effect, so we won't want to spray them, but it's a really great way to fill in gaps without having to pour as much so you can see everything well. to start leveling now it looks really good, so what I can do, I'm going to show you how to make it a little bit finer, make smaller dots too, so we're going to add a little bit more pink spray, so I like how that's added. color. there you basically get a smaller piece of cardboard and then we pour it out to get kind of a smaller bead.

You can really start to fine tune these haze and again, a lot of this will still level out very far and would. I'm probably going to fill all of these things anyway, but it's always good to try to make sure there's color everywhere, okay guys, what I'm going to do is take the remaining cubes that I have because you'll see that you'll be able to get a lot out. of them and I'll start again to fill in any spots that are missing color and then once you get to very small drops, you can refine your veins, so I'll choose a pattern of pickets to follow whichever ones you want. to do it with something that has a hard edge, those always look better when we have a lot of spray paint right here.

I'm going to run through this a little bit, cut it out and everything Kyle saw that. It looks like we don't have a lot of dark spots here, so this is a good one to make some dark fracture veins, so maybe fill in a few spots to get most of this out ofthat way I can get something really slim. veins the last thing we want to do once you're happy with your top and your design, we want to get rid of any surface tension on the edges where it says the tape, so I'm just going to make sure that everything is covered up to that tape of the same manner. thing with the back edge we want to brush all of that to blend it in, so here we see how it's not all covered with the tape, we're just going to stroke it that way, when we pull this tape, it's going to flow evenly.

There really won't be many polar drag marks, you can notice everywhere where we did the squeegee technique, we have where the bubbles are everywhere, we flatten them with the cardboard and create more bubbles once we spray this they will disappear, so Again, I just want to make sure that everything is covered up to the edges of my backsplash, that there are no indentations or holes that are missing product here before I spray it with isopropyl, okay, I'm happy with it again, you can add as many frac palettes as you want, we still have some product in these cubes that we could use, but it looks very, very good, so what we're going to do now is we're going to spray it with a little bit of isopropyl and give it a lot more effects, dispersing effects on the surface many times where the spray paints are.

We will get some of those cells. If you guys don't like that look you can just take denatured or even isopropyl alcohol and just skip the surface instead of stretching it well, if you just didn't get it that way that will pop the bubbles so I'm just making smaller drops, many of these will dissipate and disappear, and you won. I don't notice them as much except where colors mix and thin or where spray paints usually stay, I just want to make sure I press in all the places where you don't need to do it again, guys there are a lot. of different techniques and styles that you can get even with this same dirty pour that we just did, so we decided to do those crazy patterns and this is what I was talking about, the more random shapes and pours that you make, I think it looks cooler , you can even tone it down and flow with every pore.

We could have done one design and done every pore with that design on every counter, so again, there are a lot of different options when you do that. dirty pores so we have some bubbles that are still there which is fine again that's because we poured the cardboard trapping the air between the surface layer of epoxy that we made and our dirty pour and I'll show you that we can just Strange you should burst, it might take a second burst, there you have it, you lose the isopropyl surface I didn't notice that all the bubbles disappeared without burning the product, it's very good, so the last thing we have to do is wait about half an hour to two hours , it totally depends on how long it took you to get it out, your temperatures and all.

I'm going to show you the easiest way to know when is the right time to do this, so I'm going to do it right here, so the best way is. to remove the tape, see how fast it flows, it's close, although we'll probably have to wait another 20 minutes, 15 to 20 minutes, notice how it doesn't really go down to the tape super fast and it doesn't drag from the top. very fast so it's very close to the moment if you remove the tape and it flows very fast and you pull from the top you need to wait a little bit longer but the most important thing is you don't want to wait too long. to where it really doesn't want to flow, but a lot of times there's so much resin on top that it will flow over the face and cover it, so I'll show you when we do that and then once it's done, we just scrape it off. it drips and that's it, so we're going to show you that when we take the tape off, we're going to tap it again every 15 to 20 minutes, so again it's been about half an hour since we last talked, so I'm going to check the tape again, so this is almost perfect, it's moving very slow, so it's enough to cover, obviously, you know, I think this is a one and a half inch border, if you guys have thicker four inch borders or something like that, probably I want to pull it a little earlier, but since we don't have thick edges, this is the perfect time, so we'll just pull the tape and it will start to flow slowly, but you'll see it when we come back. towards this side it will be dripping, we still want to work this with the brush just off the surface so it can flow better, but this is the perfect time so you can notice that it is starting to flow. so what we're going to do is we're going to leave that kind of drip, we're going to take off the rest of the tape and then I have a brush that's going to come in and brush these edges so it can flow a little bit better and this is where we had the decorative edge. so we had some bleed marks on this because it obviously wasn't a flat surface, it turned out absolutely beautiful, so you can hear behind us where we first got the drops out, it's already reaching the bottom, so what we want to do is this basically. surface tension, so a lot of these drops are still going to run down the same drip, so we want to brush this on and help it flow evenly over the surface, so I'm going to take my brush and dip it into some of the resins to be We're not going to dry that counter and then all we're going to do is brush the entire edge and don't worry about messing up your design because it's still going to flow and drag that top design onto your faces and Look, by the time we come back to this edge, all of this edge could be coated with the top design and we will continue this throughout, we just want to get rid of that surface tension, it will help the resin flow. don't touch the top, we don't want to get the top dirty, just hit the edges, so the most important thing is to make sure you pull this at the right time.

Don't wait too long, you can pull the tape back again, checking it and making sure. it's still moving and flowing and even if you say you know you have some spots that don't flow, you can scoop some resin out of these cubes, put it on your brush, it's still usable and you can start painting on spots to help it slips If not enough resin is flowing, let's see what this edge looks like, yeah, so look, it's already going to the bottom, it's going down that vein, remember we removed it, we got rid of the design and the design is already back on that front. edge the same here a lot of this has already reached the bottom again don't worry about ruining the design it will still flow the most important thing is to get rid of any spots that don't have epoxy because if you don't have enough resin flowing you will never fill those spots, so as long as we can cover them with the epoxy, it will flow over it very well, yeah, it looks amazing, so all of our edges are polished, you can see the design.

It's already halfway here in another ten minutes and it will be all the way to the bottom bringing that vein any pattern from the top a nice little vein here coming down the edge a very, very good process so what we do now is let this drip, it's always good to periodically check your edges and then obviously if you want to pull the tape towards the sink, obviously if you were doing an undermount sink you could pull this and treat it the same way as your outside edge, but This is an undermount sink, so we are.

We're going to leave this out, we don't want to just have the epoxy scraps in there since it's not an undermount sink, so keep that in mind if you're doing undermount sinks, just treat them as these outer edges, so the last thing we would have is basically what we need to do is scrape our drops and it's still a little early for that, but I'll show you how to do it. We just grab paint sticks, scrapers, basically anything and we're just going to run this on the bottom of the counter. I'm going to get rid of all the drips, it's still going to drip because it's still a little early to scrape it off, but just to show you the process and I wanted to clean it up as I go around the more you get.

Build up on the paint stick, sometimes it starts to build up on the edge of the counter and you're trying to remove it and that's it, so I'll go over a couple of things so that when you spray isopropyl dispersion effects. Sometimes if you have fine spots on the surface it will separate or form a fish eye and if it does it will go all the way into the primer. Simply take your finger in a glove and pat it around the fisheye or dip it in and it will plump up. With resin, don't leave them on the zoom, they will fill up, so when it's done dispersing well, check to spray the counters.

I like to walk around, check all the surfaces, make sure I don't have any missing spots, make sure it doesn't have any dimples or fish eyes from doing the scattering effects, the other thing is that its edges always look at its edges during the drying process. , these will flow for probably another half hour and 45 minutes and I can still touch them up. right points that are messed up or say it looks like a drip, like for example, this is still flowing, but you can see that it looks like dripping, like it's drooping. I can take my brush and just follow that pattern and feather that in and that will eliminate those marks that look like drips, so things like this you can really adjust your counters, but if you walk away and assume you know, even though it looks good now, it's You might see a spot that you could have fixed earlier. scraping the edges you definitely want to do that because if you don't you have to re-sand the bottom edge and you can sand with about 100 grit 80 grit again just the bottom edges if you ever sand the countertops you don't.

I want to heavy sand the countertops, so yeah, I'll go back and probably scrape this off in half an hour, scrape off the bottom drips and then I might drip a little bit here and there after that, but other than that, that's pretty simple. process, tomorrow we will remove the plastic tape, clean everything and show you the final look.