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Epoxy Dirty Pour Technique On Kitchen Countertops Full Tutorial | DIY Countertop Remodel Ideas

Epoxy Dirty Pour Technique On Kitchen Countertops Full Tutorial | DIY Countertop Remodel Ideas
welcome back everyone I'm Tyler with lagari we manufacture and sell high quality products that can transform any existing surface for this video we used our lagari stone kit that incorporates a

dirty

pour

technique

to give this

kitchen

counter a natural stone look after watching this you'll be able to do it yourself now let's get started alright I'm going to show you guys how to mix our primer and also how to apply it so I have pretty much all the tools supplies you're going to need we got the gloves a stir stick our primer measuring cup which we don't really need easy to mix in two ounces of water a roller tray and a 3/8 nap roller that's bendy shedded from rolling this on some tape to pull all the loose hairs off so first things first we'll put on our gloves and then we're gonna open up our part a primer and it's always good to give it a little shake just in case anything settled in it and we will

pour

that into a cup or measuring container like I have it just needs to be about 1 quart size that way you'll have enough room in there to mix it tilt that back case you get any primer in the handle here then we're going to take our Part B again shake it up this is going to be the pigmented part of the primer and we are doing a black primer tilt that back get the residue out of the handle there get the majority of it out and then what we're gonna do is we're going to take the two ounces because you want to add two ounces of...
epoxy dirty pour technique on kitchen countertops full tutorial diy countertop remodel ideas
water to your primer kit we're gonna dump that into the Part B the water and then we'll give this a shake and this will help get the leftover primer it's a little bit thicker than a Part A then we'll dump the rest out and then we're just going to mix this with the paint stick really easy to mix want to mix it for about two minutes and scrape the sides as you're mixing scrape the bottom so we're going over

epoxy

surface stuffed it up cleaned it but same thing you know that these kits can go over any surface any hard surface so yeah so that's why it's not just bare wood it's already been

epoxy

but same same

technique

s and applications applied no matter what what the surface is so we're gonna take a second soak this roller up and then we'll just do a little strip down the middle and then we'll cross roll that out and so I like to do the top first if you have a backsplash do the backsplash next and then do your front edges that way you're not bending over the counter and hitting it the wet edges now a good thing to remember say this was a white

countertop

and we wanted to do the black primer on it or a dark counter kit you'll probably need to coat your edges two times you want those as solid of a color of the primer as you can get it so if you can see through some spots or it's a little it's not covering as well with one coat let that tack up for about 20-25 minutes and then roll another coat just on your faces...
epoxy dirty pour technique on kitchen countertops full tutorial diy countertop remodel ideas
basically any vertical surface the tops aren't as critical because it goes on thicker so just keep that mind make sure you can get your faces backsplash faces any vertical surfaces solid of a color as you can get and usually two coats of primer will do that no matter what what color you're going over so the primer needs to be rolled on thin and then if you guys aren't able to coat the

epoxy

over the primer within one to two hours you shouldn't prime it so if this primer sits longer than that it's going to become a really hard glossy surface and it's an

epoxy

based primer so you leave either have to sand it or do like a denatured alcohol wipe try to soften that up get it sticky so just remember that if you're not able to prime with an or if you're not able to put

epoxy

over the primer within a few hours then probably wait till you can do that so you're not coming back and happening to sand the primer or doing a denatured alcohol wipe on it working time with the primer is about one to two hours obviously you don't want to let it crust over and sit in a bucket but you should have no problem dipping and rolling it's not going to heat up in the bucket on you all right so the islands done I just looked good I'm just checking for any thick edges from rolling my faces or any spots that are dripping maybe it got put on too thick but it looks really really good so we'll start on the other tops now if you have spots you can't...
epoxy dirty pour technique on kitchen countertops full tutorial diy countertop remodel ideas
get with the roller you can use a cheap paint brush to maybe get in some of the corners other things sometimes when you're doing primer over Formica solid sealed surfaces anything like that that you weren't able to scuff up or sand sometimes you can get separation from the primer looks almost like fish eyes or the primer will just kind of separate and you can see the

countertop

surface before that the surface that was there before let the primer tack up a little and then just roll over those spots it'll it'll become sticky and then it won't separate like that so usually it's like silicone residue or just stuff that's kind of on the counter that wasn't taken up it's really simple just let it tack up a little roll over that spot and then it'll cover it I saw decorative edges like we did with the bondo we showed you guys that priming that's basically the same process there's really nothing different you just want to make sure it's really clean and then we'll just apply the primer just like everything else and you can see how much primer is left we send extra primer just in case you do have to do two coats if you're covering a lighter surface with a darker primer and this is a 50 square foot of

countertop

so one primer kit will do 50 square feet see you might have to work that in a little bit more on these decorative edges once you're done priming all your tops you can prime the inside edge and even underneath...
where your sink is and that'll create a nice barrier between keep it from getting water damaged stuff like that so we like to roll the primer on this edge and then also underneath and just be cautious you can see how it's leaving thick edges up here we want to roll those out further that in then all we'll have to do once the primer dries we'll tape this off create a barrier because we got to tape all these edges for the

dirty

poor anyways plastic this off just in case we get some runs we're not getting it in our sink cabinet area alright so primers down you want to give it about 45 minutes to an hour and a half depending on temperatures you can already tell this is already drying out where we started if I get a fan on here so I wouldn't want to create dust but if I get a fan blow some air it's gonna drive even faster so just keep that mind and again you're just wanting it to get to that dry look you can tell where it's still wet kind of has that milky look touch it it's not pulling up on your gloves right a little wet here still but once that goes tacky and you're not getting residue on your gloves you're ready to coat so we'll let this set up for a little bit and then we'll start taping the edges and then get right into the

dirty

pour

alright so the next step is taping off our edges to create a barrier so the resin doesn't flow over because

dirty

pores go on a lot thicker so as you can see primers dry it's still...
tacky but it's not pulling anything up perfect time to tape so what we want to do we want to make sure we're taping high enough you usually do about half half the width okay because if we tape if the tapes only a little bit higher than the counter and the resin gets to the top of the tape it's probably gonna fold it over and I'm going to start running so by making sure we're high enough it'll never flow over and since we are taping on our faces you want to make sure before you prime that your faces and edges are nice and clean alright there's our first strip now we're gonna run it one more time we want two rows of tape to get a little more stiffness out of it and we want to try to get about the same height with our second strip what we'll do is we really want to press these into the surface get a good nice tight seal last thing we want is the resin to be leaking out in spots and messing up the design on the top so take the time really push it down good and the primer will continue to dry underneath this tape so you're not going to affect the the primer at all and then the last thing you can crease your corners in just a little bit create a little bit more tension on those corners just by pinching them a little bit all right so Island done we obviously need to do that anywhere we're coding next thing I'm going to show you is plastic enough where your sink was so we're not dripping the case you know usually your cutouts for...
your sink are pretty jagged they're not very square because they don't show once the sinks and so a lot of times you'll get runs or drips through your tape in here so we're gonna take plastic and we're gonna cover inside here in case it does drip through the tape it's not getting in our cabinet if you have a gap here so that won't push in we want to tear that get that to push all the way in there get that pushed in good even if you have to re-tape when you guys are taping make sure you're using the yellow painters tape you don't want to use blue tape really anything else you can use gorilla tape but we always like to start at least one the first tape that we put down is a yellow painters tape just remember that it gives you the best seal and minimizes a lot of leaks through the tape all right last one so we did the decorative edge here with the bondo so a little bit more complicated taping we want to really try to push it in all into this texture alright guys that's how you tape off prior to the

dirty

poor Tim's going to show you guys how to separate mix all your colors and then I'll I'll apply it and we'll go from there getting ready to mix the

dirty

Paul I want to show you everything you need in preparation to get ready to mix the

dirty

pour

countertop

kits you're gonna need a five-gallon bucket of course the three gallons of the

countertop

mix that came with your

dirty

pork it you're gonna want to...
get one of the drill paddles probably a long one and a short one we have a five gallon stir stick three standard size paint sticks and then we actually have eleven of the five quart mixing containers eleven of the five quart mixing containers we have a 2 a 2 quart mixing container you can use a two and a half quart and a standard 1 quart so 11 1 gallon mixing containers a 2 quart mixing container and a 1 quart mixing container so we're going to have 5 colors all of these kits have 5 colors so we'd mix up an extra batch of just clear to flood the counters with so the first thing we want to do is we're going to just take one of these clear 4 quart containers and we'll take the other 10 and we'll just set them out of the way for now I'm just going to use the two smallest containers right now we just need to make up a small batch of clear resin so that we can float these

countertop

s first we need about 64 ounces so I'm gonna take one of my parties and my Part B I'm gonna

pour

this up to 42 ounces my Part A in the larger container so now I have my 42 ounces of Part A and I'm gonna mix up half of that which is 21 ounces of my Part B I'm gonna get it in its own container the reason why I'm

pour

ing these into separate containers is because they don't have a mixing container that has those exact amounts on it so I like to know that I'm mixing the exact amount of resin that I need so I have 42 ounces and 21 ounces of B so the first...
thing I'm going to do is

pour

my B into my a now you can definitely use a larger container than this 2 quart container the two and a half quart containers are probably even more convenient than the 2 quart they give you a little bit extra room up top I'm going to turn my drill on low and just slowly mix it what I'm doing is I'm just moving up and down the container with the drill slowly just making sure it's mixed thoroughly I'm trying to scrape the bottoms a little bit the sides and don't be too nervous about how well you mix this we're just gonna mix it for a couple minutes then we'll dump it into a brand new container to really make sure it's mixed properly once we've mixed that for a couple minutes now I'm going to

pour

all of this resin into a brand new container the reason why we do that is because we want to ensure that there's no soft spots on the

countertop

and we also want to make sure that we use all of the resin out of the container so the only way to do that is to mix it rather well and then dump it out into another container and mix a little bit more so now we have our clear mixed up and ready to be put on all the counters so we'll mix this out and then we'll set out the material for the rest of the kids all right so we immediately want to

pour

all the resin out I'm gonna show you a few options how to spread it but before I do that I'm going to show you how to

pour

so this obviously needs to...
cover all your counters so we'll start out with a bead down the middle everywhere and I don't want to

pour

it all out I want to be able to go back and add to some spots tilting that back so I'm not dripping as I'm crossing over counters okay notice how the bead levels out a little so we want to try to keep in and even with every where it gets a little skinny here so I'll add a little here maybe a little bit here so now we're gonna go back and kind of even these out and take note that the islands a lot wider than the actual

countertop

over here so I'm not going to want to do the same amount of bead on these other counters that aren't as wide so this one needs to be a little bit bigger of a bead now since we added makes the

epoxy

put it in another bucket mix it again we can set this upside down let all of it drip out and we're not gonna have any soft spots from it not getting mixed thoroughly or having too much resident resin or too much hardener so now we're just gonna spread this out basically slicking off the whole surface with a thin coat of the

epoxy

you can do a foam roller and I'll kind of show you in and when I do the foam roller I'm applying pressure and kind of using it like a squeegee because if I just try to roll this out it's gonna take quite a while so by applying a little pressure it's going to go a lot faster alright so the other option is using a squeegee first spreading this out notice I'm holding...
it at a low angle so I'm not pulling it all the way off it's still leaving some resin behind so I like to just go real quick kind of get everything spread out and then the other option if you don't have a squeegee is just using a paint stick and same thing just up and down again all we're just trying to do is just spread the bead of

epoxy

out quickly and then we can roll it you know we'll just take the foam roller and we'll kind of roll it to even it out so it goes a little bit faster spreading it like that so when you guys are about halfway through doing your you're clear blood coat have whoever's doing your colors start mixing those up that way when you're done spreading it out you can start applying your

dirty

poor designs right to the counters that way this isn't setting up on you're sitting there getting sticky so I'll just finish these out with the squeegee spreading it out real quick and if you notice maybe you have way too much

epoxy

or it's a lot thicker and maybe say your island or something you can always scrape some back in the bucket and move it somewhere where it's a lot thinner too but this is we got a good thin coat everywhere so we don't really have that issue here but you might run into that now we have the base coat down of clear it's on all the counters right now so you're gonna do this quickly but you got plenty of time we're gonna take both of our part A's what's left of the...
part a we

pour

ed out of and our fresh part a and we're going to put them into the five-gallon bucket and we're gonna let them drain out for a few minutes you can always let these drain out when you

pour

out your Part A for the base coat as well after you've had them upside down for about 30 seconds tip them up just to make sure everything is getting out of the handle sometimes you can get some material stuck in the top of the handle just like we made a little mess here you always want to keep a clean workspace this is just denatured alcohol and a rag now we're gonna

pour

our Part B into the partay if you

pour

slowly it usually doesn't get caught in the handle but I'm gonna tip it up just in case there's still quite a bit dripping out of this when it quits streaming out and it starts just dripping it's usually good and what we'll do is we'll move the drill from the top down to the bottom scraping the sides and scraping the bottom with the paddle wheel now we have the rest of the

epoxy

mixed up that's why we don't want to take too long because anytime

epoxy

is mixed up by itself it can heat up so we have five colors all of our kids have five colors so we're gonna set out five of these one gallon containers what we're going to do is we're going to

pour

out 64 ounces into all of these containers sixty-four ounces I'm gonna scrape all of the

epoxy

out of this bucket into the last one this one's not quite 64...
ounces but I have some extra

epoxy

in some of these so we can actually even these out a little bit if you don't have exactly 64 ounces and all of them that's okay we just want to kind of even them out and make sure they're pretty even so now I have my five batches here and I'll show you the five colors we're going to use for this kit now we only want three of our metallic colors so we got bronzer and we actually have to midnight pearls and two truffles because it's always good to split your kits into multiple batches and we'll show you why you've got to choose five colors so we will only want to use three colors so we did two of the midnight pearl and two of the truffles and we're also going to use some spray paint this is gloss Cambridge stone by rust-oleum gloss Cambridge stone is this color so what I'm gonna do is just mix up all the metallics separately in these buckets using a smaller drill and I'm gonna wear a mask just because I don't want to breathe any other metallic powders and this is much easier to do outside so you don't have to worry as much about it now I'll put my mask on in a minute one of the tricks when you're using if you just want to use one drill one of the tricks they're not having to change out your drill head for every color is to start at your lightest color and then mix to your darkest color so that it doesn't affect or pollute the other color so I'm going to start at the...
bronzer I'm going to go into my truffle and then we'll do the midnight pearl now we set out five more buckets brand-new and we're gonna make our

dirty

pour

kits so what we're gonna do for this particular kit we're gonna add some of this spray paint to the first three and then we're going to split our bronzer up between these two and then we'll add the rest of the color would be really cool so we're gonna do here is just spray the side all right so you saw I put quite a bit of paint in there notice I didn't hold it upside down for very long you really want to keep it upright to make sure that the color sprays out really good so now I'm gonna take my bronzer I'm just gonna

pour

it between these two you don't have to leave this bronzer upside down for a really long time you can't leave it and we can use some of the colors out of it but if you want to definitely scrape it all out we want as much of our

epoxy

on the counter as possible that's what makes a really nice looking

dirty

pour

kit so now we've split up our bronzer between these two kits now I have my two batches of truffle and two batches of midnight pearl so I'm going to take one of each and I'm going to

pour

them in here together I notice how it's making a little bit of a mess that's to be expected

dirty

poor kits are a little bit of a mess to prepare but that's why you want to do it on a piece of plastic or a separate mixing station all...
right now we'll clean up all of this stuff and now we have our five batches for the

dirty

pour

all right so obviously guys you can you know do your

dirty

porch however you want we're just showing you how to

pour

out and get the exact look that we're doing here and I'm also going to show you an easy way to kind of map out your designs the more random shapes you do when you're doing

dirty

pour

s the cooler look you're gonna get so instead of just

pour

ing like big puddles out everywhere and leaving it it's still gonna look cool but it always looks better when you start doing these random jagged edges right half circle is just a bunch of different designs and patterns in it as you're

pour

ing it out so an easy way to kind of map it out it's just take a paint stick and you can kind of run this through right make make any design you want and this will kind of help you know where to

pour

stuff like that right now that's going to look really cool if we follow that shape and then obviously you can do the same thing over here maybe run a run a big one kind of down through the middle here now keep in mind a lot we've done them where it kind of wraps corners and stuff but but natural stone usually doesn't wrap around the corner unless you like specifically ask them to cut those sections out so usually you wouldn't want to kind of bring your design around the corner and stuff like that so notice how I kind of ran it into the wall and then...
I'll maybe come up here run that one like that come over here and this kind of gives me an idea of where to

pour

my my beads out all right you can kind of see my pores right I don't have to follow them exactly but if I can kind of mimic these designs this is gonna look really really cool so we'll just get started we'll start

pour

ing out of these large ones obviously the more we have in the bucket the harder it is to

pour

out smaller beads okay so I'm gonna kind of want to move fast right here and I'm gonna flatten this off just so it

pour

s out kind of flat and I can come back and add to it right I don't want to just

pour

too much out since I started on that side we're gonna do a little here and then maybe a little bit right here and then I want to get some of this same bucket kind of all over the counter so see I'm being really random with it we don't have much in there I can let that sit it's not really gonna heat up on us crazy fast actually I'm gonna

pour

a little out in these thin spots not a lot when you're coming to

pour

into beads that are already out it's always good to start on an edge and then kind of bring that into it instead of just

pour

ing in the middle and then you have a little little blob there that kind of just doesn't really blend in as well so I like to start on the edges and then turn it into it and then we'll leave the rest of that in there for later so instead of doing the one with the...
bronzer in it I'm gonna do maybe two of these without the bronzer and save the one that has a bronzer in it for the last

pour

so we're gonna try to get this crazy shape right here now I have three of these this should be fairly similar so I'm not as concerned about hopping it around all the counter tops like we did on the one that had the bronzer in it again a little left in the bucket I can save that for later that's not really gonna heat up because there's not a lot on there so I'll do the same thing on the other counter it's kind of like we did there just kind of starting to fill it in can you see my kind of pattern I'm gonna maybe do like a half circle or almost a u-shape here to kind of split that up again there's a lot of ways you can

pour

it out I could keep following this pattern all the way through the counter but I personally like to do it kind of more random the more natural it looks you know a thing to keep in mind is right like I wouldn't want to

pour

a big pile here right this is really thick it's still leveling out this will probably fill up so when I get to this point I want to be more precise with my pores do thinner spots right I don't have to

pour

as much out in some of these areas and the other thing we want to make sure we're

pour

ing similar amount throughout the whole counter as well all right so we're on our last bucket so again I want to be more precise with the

pour

s I'm gonna

pour

a...
little here I'll

pour

a little in some of these really open spots and then I'm gonna show you how to spread that bead that

pour

out really wide and we'll be able to fill in everywhere else again guys this is gonna level out and really you know a lot of this would fill up once it levels out you can see how small that's already gotten it was way out here when I was pointing that out earlier this will probably fill it by itself so I'll just kind of start and show you and you can always add like say I want to get some more spray paint in here I can take that spray paint and we can just spray it right into our last

pour

if we want to get more of those effects out so now we're gonna take the cardboard and we're going to

pour

onto the cardboard and let it drip off and that's going to give us a wide basically a wide

pour

of the

dirty

pour

when you're doing this you're basically trapping air in between

epoxy

and the

dirty

poor

epoxy

you're putting out so we will get more we will get bubbles where we're doing this effect so we won't we will want to spray those but it's a really cool way to fill in spots without having to

pour

as much out so you see everything kind of starting to level out now looking really good so what I can do I'll show you how to get a little finer do smaller spots too so we'll add a little more spray pink so I'm liking how that's adding that color out there you just get a smaller piece of...
cardboard basically and then we'll

pour

so we get kind of a smaller bead you can really start fine-tuning these these mist bucks and again a lot of this still is gonna level out really far and would probably fill all this stuff in anyways but it's always good to try to make sure you get color everywhere all right guys what I'll do is take the remaining buckets I have cuz you'll see you'll be able to get a lot out of them and I'll start again filling in any spots that are that are missing color and then once you get down to really small drips you can really fine-tune your veins so I'll just pick a picket pattern to follow these you want to do it with something that has a hard edge those always look the best when we got a lot of spray paint right here I'm just gonna kind of run run through this a little bit kind of chop this up and all that Kyle saw that it looks so we don't have a lot of dark spots in here so this is a good one to do some dark fracture veins so I'll maybe fill in some spots get the majority of this out that way I can get some really skinny veins last thing we want to do once you're happy with your top your design we want to get rid of any surface tension on the edges where the tape says so I'm just going around making sure everything is coated up to that tape same thing with the back edge we want to brush all that in kind of blend it around so like right here see how this it's not all covered to the...
tape just gonna Pat that in that way when we pull this tape it'll flow over evenly we won't really get a lot of like polar drag marks you can notice everywhere we did the squeegee

technique

we have where the bubbles are right every where we flatten that off with the cardboard kind of created more bubbles once we spray this those will disappear so again just want to make sure everything's coated up to my edges my backsplash there's no like divots or pits that are missing product out here before I spray it with the isopropyl all right I'm happy with it again you can add as many fracture vanes as you want we still have some product in these buckets that we could use but it looks really really good so what we'll do now is we'll spritz it with some isopropyl and giving it some a lot more effects dispersing effects on the surface a lot of times where the spray paints are we'll get some of those cells if you guys don't like that look you can just take denatured alcohol or even isopropyl and just miss the surface instead of stretching it right if you just missed it like that that'll pop the bubbles so I'm just doing smaller drips a lot of these will dissipate and kind of disappear and you won't notice them as much except for like where the colors are blended and got thinned out or where the the spray paints at all those will usually stay just want to make sure you hit hit everywhere you don't have to again guys there's a lot of...
different

technique

s and looks that you can get even out of this same same

dirty

pour

that we just did to so we took to did those crazy patterns and this is what I was talking about the more random shapes and

pour

s that you do I think the cooler looks you can even tone it down and kind of flow with every pore right you could we could have did one design and kind of did all the pores with that design throughout the counters so again a lot of different different options when you're doing the

dirty

pores so we have a few bubbles that are still still there which is fine again that's from us

pour

ing off the cardboard trapping the air in between the skin layer of

epoxy

we did and our

dirty

pour

and I'll show you we can just miss that they should pop might take a second one of them pop there you go misses the surface isopropyl didn't notice all the bubbles are gone without torching very cool product so the last thing we got to do is wait about half an hour up to two hours it totally depends on how long this took you to

pour

it out your temperatures and everything I'm gonna show you the easiest way to know when the right time to pull this so I'll do it right here so the best way is to pull your tape back see how fast that's kind of flowing over it's close though we probably need to wait another maybe 20 minutes 15-20 minutes notice how it's not really going down all the way to the tape superfast and it's not dragging from the top really fast so...
it's really close to about the time if you pull that tape back and it's kind of flowing really fast and pulling from the top you need to wait a little bit longer but the biggest thing is you don't want to wait too long to where it doesn't really want to flow but a lot of times there's so much resin on the top it's gonna flow over the face and cover it so I'll show you guys when we do that and then once that's done we just scrape drips and that's pretty much it so we'll show you when we pull the tape we're gonna give it about another on all 15-20 minutes all right so again it's been about half an hour since we last talked so I'm gonna check the tape again so this is about perfect it's moving very slow right so that's enough to cover obviously you know I think this is an inch and a half edge if you guys have thicker edges four inch or so something like that you're probably going to want to pull it a little sooner but since we don't have thick edges this is about the perfect time so we're just gonna pull the tape and it's gonna start flowing over slowly but you'll see by the time we get back to this side it'll be dripping over we'll still want to work this in with the paintbrush just just slicked off the surface so it can flow over it better but this is about the perfect time so you can tell it's starting to flow over so what we're gonna do let that kind of drip we'll pull the...
rest of tape and then I got a paintbrush will come and brush these edges in so it can flow over a little better and this is where we had the decorative edge so we had some bleed marks on this because obviously it wasn't a flat surface turned out absolutely beautiful so you can hear behind us where we first pulled the drips it's already getting to the bottom so what we want to do is the this is basically surface tension so a lot of these drips will keep a running down the same drip so we want to brush this in and help this evenly flow over the surface so I'll take my paintbrush dip it in some of the resins just so I'm not going on that counter dry and then all we're gonna do is brush the whole edge in and don't worry about messing up your design because it's still gonna flow over and drag that top design right down onto your faces and you'll see - by the time we get back to this edge this whole edge might be coated with the top design and we'll just continue continue this everywhere we just want to get rid of that surface tension it's gonna help the resin flow notice I'm not touching the top we don't want to mess at the top just hitting the edges so biggest thing is making sure you pull this at the right time you don't wait too long you can again keep pulling the tape back checking it making sure it's still moving and flowing and even if say you know you have some spots that aren't flowing over you can get some resin...
out of these buckets get it on your brush right it's still useable and you can start painting in spots to help slick it off if you're not getting enough resin flowing over let's see how this edge looks yeah so look it's already going to the bottom it's bringing that vein down remember we slicked that off got rid of the design and the design is already back on that front edge the same thing over here a lot of this has already ran down to the bottom again don't worry about screwing the design up it's still gonna flow the biggest thing is getting rid of any spots that don't have

epoxy

cuz if you don't have enough resin flowing over it'll never fill those spots so as long as we can get them coated with the

epoxy

it'll flow over it really nice yeah it's looking awesome so all our edge are slicked off you can see the design it's already halfway down here in another ten minutes that'll be all the way down bringing that vein any pattern from the top nice little vein here coming down the edge very very cool process so what we do now is let this drip it's always good to periodically check your edges and then obviously if you wanted to pull the tape to the sink you could obviously if you were doing an undermount sink you would pull this and treat it the same as your outside edge but this is an undermount sink so we're gonna leave this we don't want to just have the

epoxy

waste in there since it's not an undermount...
sink so just keep that in mind if you are doing undermount sinks you just treat them just like these outside edges so last thing that we would have to do is basically scrape our drips and it's still a little early for that but I'll show you how to do it we just take paint sticks scrapers basically anything and we're just gonna run this on the bottom of the counter now this is gonna get rid of all the drips it's still gonna keep dripping because it's still a little early to scraped it drips but just to show you guys kind of the process and I was like to clean it off as I'm going around the more you get built up on your paint stick sometimes it'll start to build up on the edge of the counter and you're trying to eliminate that and that's it so I'll just go over a couple things so when you guys are spraying isopropyl dispersing effects sometimes if you have thin spots on the surface it'll kind of separate or fisheye and if it does then goes all the way to the primer just take your finger in a glove and Pat around that fisheye or dip it and it'll fill in with resin don't leave those in the zoom they're gonna fill in so when I'm done doing dispersing right check spraying the counters I like to walk around check all the surfaces make sure I don't have missed spots make sure I don't have any dimple eeen or any fish eyes from doing the dispersing effects the other thing is your edges always watch your edges during...
the during the dry process right these are gonna flow for another probably half hour 45 minutes and I can still touch up spots right that they get messed up or say it looks like a drip like like for instance this is still flowing but you can see it kind of looks drippy like droopy I can take my brush and kind of just go with that pattern and feather that in and that'll get rid of those like drip look marks so stuff like this you can really fine-tune your counters but if you walk away and assume you know even though it looks good now you might see a spot that you could have fixed before scraping the edges you definitely want to do that because if you don't you have to come back sand the bottom edge and you can sand with about 100 grit 80 grit again just the bottom edges right if you ever sand your counters you don't want to go heavy grit on the counters so yeah I'll come back and probably scrape this in half an hour scrape the bottom drips and then it might drip a little here and there after that but other than that that's pretty much it guys pretty simple process we'll pull the tape plastic tomorrow clean everything up and show you guys the finished look you