Dressing A Tudor Lady from the Court of Henry VIII

Gentlemen, my name is sarah morris and I am the author of two books about aberdeen bianca an ambulance novel viandra which means in french the time will come a few words written by anne's own hand in her book of hours and you can still see that today in heath carlson and the second book is a non-fiction book it is a guide to all the places and artefacts associated with the ambulance and this is my

lady

waiting for the day this is a bull zarina a ladies arena ladies arena trained in london faculty of fashion where she made stage costumes and, um, as a result of her love of costumes and all things stupid, in fact, everything you see here today is made with Lady Serena's own hands, all prepared by hand, they are quite amazing and you will have plenty of opportunity to talk to Zarina and I later about our relative passions and interests, um, so yes, as a result of the sand ladies' interest in

tudor

suits and

tudor

s, she created her own business called tudor dresses about 18 months ago so she makes custom tudor clothing for all your tutoring needs like I say we'll both be here later to talk to you about books and about you to close if you want to know more but you might be thinking how the hell We came here to talk about what's going on. under the skirts of a

lady

today well, for me it started with the investigation of Lethal Bianca.

I am not a professional historian, so when I set out to write the book in August 2010, I confess that I knew very little about the tutors I had. Lifelong passion for the emblem, but what was really important to me from the beginning was historical accuracy. I really wanted to make the story real, so I set about researching everything I could about the different facets of Anne's world and what the Tudors would be like. revere each other how they hunted falcons, danced, ate the great castles and palaces they lived in, but also of course how they dressed now, I don't know, some of you may be experts in tudor suits, I don't know, but certainly when I started writing I wrote LTV.

I knew what a Tudor lady looked like but it was an enigma what really happened and how it was all put together and what the different layers of the costume were about, so I started doing some re-enactments and this is where I met Ladies Arena who was also following her passion and as we were walking around wonderful houses like this people were constantly stopping us and asking us about our costume and asking us what was going on under all these layers, so we thought Arma what I hope it is for you, it will be about 40 45 minutes into a very visual, very entertaining talk, I hope you get the chance to be a fly on the wall in a ladies' rain chamber.

The doorbell camera is the Tudor name for a. essentially a

dressing

room and you'll be able to see exactly how a tuna costume is put together and sculpted instead, um, so that's a little bit about us, um, what I wanted to say first of all, although it's a slight disclaimer, no we are professionals. costumiers historical costumes we're just very passionate fans and we're going to share that with you today the other thing that muddies the water a little bit with the tudor costume being able to say you know that's exactly how they dressed at the time. is that tuna fashion, of course, was changing all the time just like fashion today, so you can see, for example, very different, large and very significant differences between tudor fashion in the early 16th century and late 16th century, but exactly when a quarter gale changed its shape or a petticoat was put aside in favor of a different garment, it's a little harder to identify the other thing that tends to complicate things is a little like today , I mean, we have sweaters, sweaters, pullovers, there are basically three words for everyone. the same, well, tudor, tudors have the same and therefore if you try to look back at the actual wardrobe accounts you can often see for example that a dress is called a

court

or a core is called a petticoat , so when you look at the primary sources and try to figure out exactly what a Tudor lady would wear, you have to try to unravel all this and make the most of all the different sources, so we covered all the ground when we tried to make sense of Tudor style clothing Of course, we are looking at existing portraits, pieces of chewing clothing that still survive from the 16th century.

Two methods are also a good source of information and then of course you also have the actual wardrobe accounts so this is where we tend to pull out all of our parts so we're about to get started but let's create a little bit of atmosphere. uh, here we are, this wonderful house, the vine, um, it's actually Serena and I was feeling quite moved by this. 478 years ago to the present day, Amberlynn arrived at the vine alongside Henry VIII were in progress, world progress in 1535, it had been one of the longest and most politically significant progress of Henry's reign, it is truly a great joy for two and For months and a half they have been hunting and selling daily, entertaining themselves with all the skill of the sun and the nobility around Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, they traveled through much of Hampshire and arrived here on Friday, Friday, May 15, in 1535 .

Of course. there were guests of lord william sandys, who was a very important man at tuna

court

, he was

henry

's lord chamberlain, um, and lord chamberlain was the chewed noblewoman, the tudor nobleman, women did not have such important roles , who was responsible for all the events. -In the king's private chamber, unlike the public chambers and the vine, there is a beautiful house today, but much larger in 1535, so it is a large house with a courtyard, much of it on the lawn right outside, so the foundations of much of the house of course have now been lost, it would be a courtyard house, it was very typical of the Tudor era and the king and queen would have occupied their respective sides while they were here and I think it is believed that the ladies of the vine will confirm this for me, but I think that the long gallery is believed to have potentially connected the side of the king and queen that still survives with us today, so let the 21st century dissolve for a moment and return to the 1530 side. 1535 on the queen side.

The ambulance is preparing for one day. at court, so you will see how a typical Tudor noblewoman would dress at the pinnacle of Tudor society every day, we are in her writing room, she is attended to by her lady-in-waiting, probably more than one and the Ladies in Waiting They were usually married women who were also wives of nobility and close personal friends of the queen, so they assisted her in her most intimate tasks and finally you're here in my tudor nightgown, so I guess you'd call, you know, this is something So. Similar to a modern

dressing

gown, essentially this dressing gown would have been worn very casually, usually within private bedrooms, it is very comfortable to wear, believe me when you wear one of these all day and have it on all day to put on a beautiful flowy dress like this is just a huge relief. um, this beautiful dress, as you can see, is made of it.

It's black lady black, it's black satin on the outside and then black taffeta and fur lined around the neck. Now most of us wouldn't. I don't dream of being painted for our portrait in a robe, I imagine it's that the world's greatest painter on earth shows up at your door and you decide to get painted and progress again, this is exactly what we see with uh. amberlynn here a holbein sketch of anne what she's wearing i hope you don't see a different item of clothing do you see me wearing here she has her koi on her head you see her robe which we'll get to in a moment pinned at the base of her neck and then you see this beautiful and voluminous garment she wears, trimmed with fur around the neck, just as you see me.

I have heard that the reason Amberlynn would have sat on something like that was because the garment was a very precious garment to her, perhaps it would have been a gift, perhaps a gift from Henry himself and, in fact, if you read costume accounts, there is an account of Amberlynn receiving black silk and taffeta material to make a nightgown. when she was in the elven palace with Henry in 1532, just before his monumental trip to Calais, so yes, here we have our nightgown, thank you, oh yes, please, okay, could you pick up the tin in the room ?

Could you pick up my hood? It's in a box. Uh oh, that's great, I hope I look reasonably modest here. I have to say that if you see a peak of underwear it's because I'm only doing it out of modesty, of course Tudor ladies didn't have underwear as far as we know. no panties, um, so this would be the clothing, you know, it's basically the layer closest to your skin, your underwear and it's made of linen and um, it's said that in the 16th century everyone came into the world dressed in linen and everyone went out of the world dressed in linen, which basically means that babies were wrapped in linen for the first few months of their lives for quite a while and the dead were always wrapped in linen before being buried, um, so in the middle, Whether you were a man or a woman, whether you were a peasant working in the fields or whether you were the king or queen, you wore large amounts of clothing, but what marked your status was the amount of clothing you owned and the frequency with which you could change them. . you like your chimneys, I should say your dressing gown, your chinos or your shirt, which are all the same name for this particular article of clothing that you see me here and as a queen I would wear a very fine soft linen against the skin, obviously it would be Could change my bedding every day, not like that, of course, if you were a peasant working in the fields now.

A robe could be simple like the one you see me wearing here today or it could be beautifully embroidered, so they are actually still survivors of the war. 16th centuries and that's just wonderful and they're in the museum in Bath and you can see they're completely embroidered in the summer. Good health waiting for you on the bodice around the neck and on the cuffs with what is called black work. that means it's black thread embroidery, you get that fantastic closure. I love the little b in the corner. It's fantastic. Equally popular would be embroidery with red thread and that would be called red work, but there are accounts of all types of colored silks being used.

And if you were Amber Lynn then you'd probably be more familiar with having your robes embroidered with gold or silver thread. In fact, we see this here. I just advanced on catherine parna. This is actually from the 1540s, but if you look at his fists, look. Very carefully you can see some gold embroidery and it is definitely gold thread that is used to avoid on her robe so you can actually see here a different type of neckline as you can see I have a square cup neckline here in the decade from 1540, is a good An example of how garments have evolved is a slightly different style of dress that wasn't really available in the 1540s in the 1530s, I should say this type of raised collar and we can see the raised collar . robe collar that complements the dress.

If we go back, you'll see the little collar here again and that would be worn quite often, for example with an English dress, which I'll come and tell you all about as we go along. the talk and then of course I have this square cut neckline and that is very determined by the type of outer dress that I'm going to wear so as you see here with the sand ladies, you can see their robe above the neckline and then the Square Cut Neckline to complement that, so you know now you had a different design, why did you wear a garment like this?

Well, first and foremost, it protected the skin against the outermost layers of your clothing, but as Lady Serena and I know very well. of our days doing recreation during the hot English summer sun is that you tend to sweat quite a bit and the nice thing about being able to wear a robe like this is that the perspiration is absorbed and therefore you can basically wash it and of course it is very difficult, in fact impossible, to wash some of these fine materials that make up the outer robe without damaging them, so the way the Tudors tended to treat their outer clothing is that they would brush it, they would perfume it, but you would never think to wash it. this, but you could wash your bedding, so that's the robe or the nightgown and just look underneath you can see that I have my tudor tights or my stockings with my where's my little artist? and we know they used garters. um, I don't have a photo of that, but the coffin of Eleanor of Toledo, she was the Duchess of Florence in the mid-16th century and when the English opened her coffin, the Italian authorities found her wearing red stockings with little red silk garters. with So, most stockings, I think certainly in the early 16th century were wool, but although I think there are accounts of Elizabeth the First later, instead of having silk stockings, obviously the height of fashion and opulence, and then on my little feet here.

I have my Tudor shoe slippers, as they were called in the Tudor period, so there isn't really much information about Tudor shoes and slippers. If you look in the wardrobe accounts, I saw that he said that Henry VIII had velvet slippers, silk slippers, but what? What we do know is that they did it in England, where his slippers are flat, while on the continent it is moreIt's common to have a heel associated with the shoe, so that's my underwear, now the next layer that I'm not actually going to physically put on today because we have three layers of lacing to do we'll be here all day if we put on each layer but I'm going to tell you all about this so the next layer is if I go ahead oh That's Amberlynn just modeling the square neckline and as you can see hers is embroidered again with that black work I was telling you about.

Oops, and then we also have the tudor slippers, so this is a complete sketch. front and back of a French tudor style again and then you can see the sneaker peeking out from the bottom, that typical square with rounded end that we associate so much with tuna footwear and hopefully that will take us to our bodies for the next layer. what a tudor lady would wear would be her pair of bodies aka corsets so again we have this complication of three different words describing exactly the same item and the purpose of this pair of bodies or setting is basically to provide the definition of the bodice now, in the early 16th century, it is not like the corsets we know associated with the tudor period, not the victorian period, which had a lot of bones and were intended to retain the smallest waste possible, that's really not what that the tudor stays were about providing definition, particularly to the neckline, so once you're tied up and here's an example of a spot that serena has done once you're tied up, you get this beautiful flat front and the intention is that the chest is pushed up so you get that pretty raised cleavage that we might associate, I was going to have Serena tomorrow, you see what I mean, now this particular pair is a backlash, let's turn it around so you can see the back lacing on this particular one.

The pair has been pushed back, but as you can see here in the image slide on the left, it has a remains of the funerary effigy of Elizabeth I. It is a little later in the period, but in this case they were both placed in front . unspoken, which are these types of moldings that allow the space to slide along the hip, providing greater comfort for the wearer and then we have on the right another example of a pair of bodysuits or suspenders with laces in the back again, These were taken from Eleanor of Toledo's coffin. They are made of red velvet in this case, which reminds me to talk to you about red briefly.

Red was an incredibly popular color for Tudor style ladies' underwear, so they had red stockings and red corsets. They have red petticoats. I heard that that was because red was thought to have a very beneficial effect on your health, so here you go, wear red ladies, we'll all be fine, so yeah, I think that's all I need. say about the suspenders, except that what would normally be the case is around the waist, they might have had loops of which they would hold a petticoat, so the other function of the suspenders was to hold a petticoat up and again, very often, a red petticoat, so there are my, so those are the corsets and I think with that I'm probably ready for the next layer, so this would be, do you have to imagine yourself in my corsets in my petticoat and now I'm going to enter my paternity area?

A lady always allows her ladies to dress her, so I thought the story of her father was Gale. I don't know how many of you know that he came to England in 1501 with Catherine of Aragon when she married Prince Arthur. She and her ladies came upon their Spanish quarter gales and realized that no one was wearing them, so they immediately abandoned them to begin with in favor of the long, flowing skirts that hugged and skimmed the body, which were the fashion of The time. However, at some point Catherine clearly decided that she wanted her daughter back before she adopted her again and started wearing her again and of course the Queen was wearing her so it became fashionable and then the storm came in.

Spanish. The English suit clearly its main function is to provide definition and shape to the skirts when it was first adopted, perhaps it was more modest in size than this one, so the skirts still remained relatively narrow in a cone shape and later, tailored As the decades progressed, the gale arrived. became more voluminous and therefore the definition of the ladies' skirts became more voluminous and here we see the shape of this Princess Elizabeth's skirt from the mid 1540s and at that time the gale was quite stiff and gave these beautiful A kind of stiff conical skirt, um, the train which we will also talk about when we talk about the dress that was popular in the 1530s had disappeared at that time, so the skirts were this type of cone shape and in terms of materials. because what you're seeing here appears quite frequently in the wardrobe account, so you hear about some kind of silks and again you hear about red velvet.

The red shows up quite a bit, so I think I'm probably ready for my next layer. The next layer is a very confusing layer of clothing. I think for the uninitiated it took me quite a while to figure out how this fit into a cheaper noble lady's wardrobe, but here's the curtain. I'll stand on it for a moment. moment and then I'll start telling you all about it so the reason why I think it's a little bit confusing because again as you can see it's fascinating so I'll have to try and try but you all can.

Watch me and let's talk to all of you as Serena starts tying the laces and the reason I think the short cut is a little confusing as a garment, is because in the 15th century the short cut was actually the outermost dress worn for a lady and I'm going to have to lean over, so if you see the image on the right side, we could go back to those ladies. If you look at the image on the right side, you will see a lady. clearly not a noble lady, she is working, it seems like she is doing an event for me, um, but she is wearing a kind of 15th century cut, it was a type of dress typical of that time, it was tight around the shoulders and the bodice had a seam around the waist and then the skirts fell in a fairly natural fold um and so I think it was for most of the 15th century and then at some point during the 16th century the Tudor nobility thought no, no, no , we're not going to have that.

We need another layer of opulence and that is why the short cut became the second outermost dress and the English or French dress that I will tell you about in a moment replaced it and became the outermost outer layer of clothing, so the short cut which in the 15th century was often called a dress became a cut and the French and English dress became the game. I don't make any sense, it can be a little confusing, so you can see here, I'm actually being. tied to the front and in fact the turtles could be tied to the front and in fact if I were a farmer working on the land it would be absolutely essential because I need to be able to make my own clothes, one of the things that becomes very evident as soon as you start wearing Tudor style noble ladies clothes is that you can't put them on yourself, in reality you absolutely need someone to tie you up and therefore it was all a matter of wealth and status of course, um , so yes, I am. and normally at this point we tend to cure our breasts in place to get the appropriate cleavage, but I'm going to spare you that spectacle and continue as I am, so I was saying that um, reduction evolved and became Again, reduction evolved as that the 16th century was dawning and here we see Mary Tudor on the right in the altimas cape, she is wearing something called an English dress which I will tell you about in a moment, but underneath that and you can look at it from the elbows to the cuffs and on the front part of your skirt, that would be your curd, your second outermost layer.

Well done, thank you very much. Now I'm wearing this lovely kind of crimson satin, uh, that is. beautiful and a really rich fabric and it certainly wouldn't be available for me every day to choose a noble person, a pulling person um, but it's actually for a curd it's not adorned and you'll see the reason for that in a minute because when I put in my outer dress, this cape in this case will not be visible, so it does not have to be the rich and ornate fabric that we see here, which probably must be some kind of black gold fabric that Mary is wearing, which would be incredibly expensive, but it was all part of the show, so yeah, this will all be covered in a moment and because that's why when you see my friend, if you see Serena Ladies Arena here, she has this deep V slit.

In her dress, this would be curdled or in this case I'm going to wear my four-part suit because I need that part of my skirt to be visible, so it needs to be a rich, beautiful material that will be on. display, so this is a four-part lady, you can see it's just a simple triangular piece of material, but always as rich and opulent as you can afford it. and we see here again. I just clicked on it before we get another close up of a portrait of Mary Tudor again and here you can see the four parts of her skirt and critically the four parts always matched the material of the failure. sleeve so you can see it falsely peeking out from elbow to cuff and as I continue dressing you will see me put on my false sleeves and you will see how the two pieces of material actually fit together, so having put my floor part in place I am now ready for the dress this is a monster to dive into so I'm going to have to leave you for a second while I disappear now this is a pretty heavy dress Because it's fall outside, it's a little colder so as a queen I'm going to want to choose something to keep me warm all day long, so this is made of a beautiful velvet and the sleeves are trimmed with fur.

There we go good, so once my lady gets to tying me up Hi, I'm sorry you missed the first few layers, I should do a quick recap, so let me talk to you about dresses. A Tudor noblewoman had two basic styles of dress to choose from. From the beginning it was the English dress and I must admit that when I learned about the Tudors I really didn't. I always thought about the French dress but I didn't really have the image of the English dress in my mind, so this was a revelation to me at that time, so the English dress.

As you can see, we have Christina from Denmark on the left side. She's only about 16 years old. It is a portrait commissioned by Henry VIII when he was investigating. Europe is looking for its new bride and it's Christina, such a feisty girl, she said yes, she would gladly give her hand to the King of England in marriage if only she had two heads, so, yes, she certainly had the head. literally fucked in the right way um so here we see Christina from Denmark in an English nightgown that you saw me wearing at the beginning of the talk.

The point about the English dress is that it fits nicely around the shoulders and then falls into just a strip of fabric to the floor and quite pretty in this case, quite loose folds, as you can see, the nightgown she was wearing, the Christina's dress is trimmed with fur, it may have been lined with fur if it was winter and she really obviously needed that extra warmth and you have these beautiful voluminous sleeves that are caught in the cup as the century wearing the English dress evolved in style, so here on the right side you have a photo from around 1570, I think.

This is so, again it is a contemporary drawing and draws your attention to the ladies, particularly on the left, the two ladies, they are both wearing English dresses, it is a little different, although they are obviously tighter around the bodice, but they still fall down . In a straight cut of floor-length fabric, the English dress was always fastened in the front and the closure was clear and obvious, so it was fastened with a piece of ribbon as you see with Christina from Denmark or probably in the other se fastened with Hooks and Eyes, the French dress, as we can see when we get to one of the other slides, was normally fastened at the back in the 1530s, but could be fastened at the side or in front, but in that case he always put an extra. layer of fabric called midriff in the front to hide the laces so you never see them in the front of a French dress just to also say that you have these different styles of sleeves that come with the English dress so they can be puffed like you see with Christina from Denmark or they could just be long, quite tight on the arm all the way to the cuff, like you see with one of those ladies there or just this short puff that ends around the elbow. and it's another good image showing how the tortoise could be visible under an English dress so you can see how particularly the second lady on the left you can see how beautiful there is some type of damask material showing through the front slit her. dress, so there is no evidence that this set, although it looks more comfortable than this dress, there is no evidence that the English dress was worn informally, so I told you between gasps, so yes, it was a very formal dress and it certainly would be. has been something thatyou could have chosen to wear, you know, to court and that would be perfectly acceptable to do so and then we move on to the French dress, which is perhaps the game that we all associate, I think most people associate with the shooter period, it's certainly the dress you are seeing me in here and i don't know exactly when the french dress arrived in england, but one imagines that mary tudor, sister of

henry

viii

, who became queen of france, i know she is credited with bringing the French Hood to England, so I suspect she would also manage to bring a dress and, no doubt, when Amberlynn became Henry VIII, her lover and then her consort.

She certainly popularized French fashion and was well known for her french customs and here we see two more queens from henry, I have jane seymour of course, if we are really fed up, it's great therapy, it's exact revenge, um, so we've got jay seymour on the left side and of course of course, catherine on the right and they are both wearing slightly different variations of the french dress, but essentially the same basic outfit with a very tight fit around the shoulders around the The bodice has a seam at the waist, as seen here, and then the skirts fall with that deep V centered in the front and the floor part for the turtle visible, I guess the main difference perhaps between these two images is Catherine, the sleeves are starting to evolve. and I will tell you a little about the evolution of the sleeves.

You might notice that Catherine's earlier sleeves are starting to get a little bit bigger and they became a little bit fuller during the 1540s and they stiffened and also. I'll tell you a little more about that as we go, so here I am in my chocolate brown velvet and fur sleeves. Now, of course, what you wore in the 16th century was what you essentially were and vice versa. So nowadays, you often know that people try to dress like individuals so they can be different. Well in Tudor society you dressed so that everyone knew exactly who you were in Tudor society so of course there were the Suntree laws which were reinforced by the Tudors quite a bit or they tried to anyway I think most Flamey ignored them, but um, this, um, determined what you could wear according to your rank, so you could only wear silk, for example, if you were a count or higher, so nerla marquez or the duke or the king or the queen, the royal family, they were the only people who were allowed to wear crimson scarlet purple, so if you were a tudor, you would exactly ignore someone's status when they walked through the door because of what they were wearing, the other thing which determines what you could use.

During the day as a queen is, of course, the climax of the season and I already mentioned that before, so I wear a thicker dress, velvet and fur, but in the summer as a lazarine and I know that it is much more comfortable if you. You were wearing your silks and your satins and your taffetas with maybe your velvet sleeves folded back and of course the tudors were in the middle of a mini ice age and the temperatures were two or three degrees colder than today and they lived . outdoors, you know, we spend a lot of time indoors, counting on the computer or whatever we do, of course, in research, you're kidding, I need a little encouragement to talk about this work, thank you, so, yes, in the investigation, following in Amberlynn's footsteps, we.

I've done a whole section on the progress of 1535 and it's fascinating to see the accounts of what they did, but essentially almost every day they seem to be hunting and selling from early morning until after the sun went down. Some wonderful tales that survive from their time in gloucester in this very progress 1535 progress where they set out, they spent the whole day touring the gloucestershire countryside stopping at the local gentry along the way and then when they returned to the gates of gloucester town, It was already night and They were met by torch bearers and taken back to their launch, so they were out for hours and hours, so you need to dress appropriately.

I'm just making sure I haven't missed anything here. Oh, I just wanted to talk to you about the train. Yes, it's absolutely true, so I mentioned that in the early 16th century, certainly up until the 1530s, it was quite common for a lady to have a train. I have the smallest one, but not in this one, but as you can see here. this is um again I'm going to go back to eleanor from toledo the wealth came out when they opened her coffin this was the dress she was wearing it is believed to be her wedding dress in reality and you actually there is a photo in the element of toledo with this same one dress, that's why they managed to get them married, but we can see here beautifully that this is this little train, but in England certainly the train had disappeared in the late 1530s and there we go, so I guess the last thing I wanted to tell you about the dress is to go back and talk about the different layers and about the type of material, so this slide beautifully shows all the different layers that we've been talking about, so if you look carefully you can see a kind of very thin transparent camisole that it wraps around the base of her neck, that's another kind of style if you like the neckline and then the red cape that you see there.

I'm interpreting that it's probably her. the red velvet is left on her and then the black is the tail buttoned in the front of her and then you have this final layer of gray damask and if you look very closely you will see fur coming out of the neckline. Can you see the little threads? of fur and this tells us that it looks like the bodices of these dresses could be lined with fur for added warmth. We certainly know that tails were, so when they had them, you could have them if you were very rich, you're trained fur-lined. and you can do it, it looks like they can hook it, probably for practical reasons, you know you don't want your train, one of the things we found is that when you get home after a day of walking, your skirts are dirty, so it was very practical to do that, but it also showed everyone that if you could afford to have your train skirt lined, you were one to be reckoned with, so yeah, so we see the fur-lined bodice here, which must be very comfortable.

In fact, I think we're probably already wearing sleeves, so I'm ready to get my sleeves, so again, this was a revelation to me. I didn't realize you only had fake sleeves, so the French ones down here, this is the main sleeve. What you see here and what's happening is that my fail sleeve is being tied in place now just for purely practical reasons, my cuff is actually sewn into this, but as you've seen in the pictures above, you actually know that it was the cuff of the robe. which tended to be seen under shoes, there is a lot of debate about whether it was actually a robe peeking out or whether they actually sewed pieces of fabric together because I know a lot of re-enactors who have tried to wear this type of sleeve in the smog, what happens is that the smoke just disappears all the time and you don't get these lovely pieces of fabric.

I'll see if it looks better a little bit like you could see Princess Elizabeth. there it just sinks in and you're losing it and you're always like pulling it out and it's very irritating and I can imagine you know maybe maybe they did. I had like a fake robe that people I'm sorry, I just need to go back exactly a little bit to the evolution of the sleeve, so in the 1520s we see a typical sleeve with attached pleated material, but what was common was always this cut to along the bottom and that was trapped together with eggs and if I can show a little bit, we move on to this photo of james seymour, we have a very similar holster, it fits the arm just as well, again it is attached with pleated material, but this time you can see the jeweled aglets that hold the materials and You can see our version of adlets here and these were part of a lady's jewelry and they were extremely expensive and highly jeweled and if we fast forward a little bit to the 15's or 40's if you remember , I was talking to you about how the manga evolved. and here you can actually see this in the photo of Princess Elizabeth how the sleeve is much more voluminous and looks stiff almost um and it's certainly becoming more and more obvious as part of the decoration of the dress and again always very jeweled and again you can see example how the material of the failure sleeve matches the material of the curtain or the four parts, so I think I don't have a hood, we can go for English, I think we will talk about the era of the costume, my hood was left in another place, it doesn't matter, actually, um.

Tsarina you can model your production like this and the next layer of clothing would be the hood absolutely essential peaceful there I think there is a passage in the Bible I think it's in Corinthians that says that a woman should not show her hair and that then had the profound effect of determining how the headdress worn by women throughout Christendom during the medieval period a woman would have long hair of course the only time she was allowed to wear it down was if she was a child, a girl or a married woman basically or if it was the queen of England on her coronation day, so you wouldn't need a hood because obviously the crown would have been placed on your head, other than that a married lady always wore her hair up and covered with a headdress in the decade from 1530, there are basically two different ones. styles of headdresses, here you have the English hood.

This particular style of hood, in one form or another, existed during the 15th century, but it tends to have those really long pieces that you may have seen in portraits of Elizabeth of York. that's gone now, but you still hear this, all the hair is clearly swept, it's not visible, it's quite stiff, if you want, can you, we have an English wood here so you can see how the hair is actually swept. kept out of the way and I have to say I've tried these English hoods myself, they tend to age me about 10 years, there's something quite severe, as you can see here, it's quite severe, right?

So you can see when the French hood came in and why it was so bold because you can actually see some of the hair like you can see with Serena here, you can see her hair under her French hood, so yeah, very, very bold and, of course, Jay Seymour after the Amblin execution. She returned to the English Quarter because she wanted to wash her hands of anything French and she wanted to be seen as absolutely English and absolutely proper, so she really was known for using the English Quarters of her, um, so I'm sorry, I'm leaving. . for being homeless, I apologize, um, but now we're in the fight, we're almost there, but I look pretty plain, don't I?

So I need a little bit of shine, I need a bit of shine to brighten up the The costume now, um, a lady's jewelery hall in the Tudor period, would have consisted of her combinations, so this is the type of filament. You can see it on the left side. There you have a photo of Mary Tudor in her wedding portrait. with charles brandon she wears the most amazing costume it's so beautiful but you can see the filaments around the edge of her hood and they would always match her castaneda which is tudor wood for a collar so normally It would be two strands.

Have the choker very close to the base of the neck, as you can see here, and then a longer necklace that would be hidden under the pendant below the neckline, of course, was very popular and you can also see the jewels around the edge of the dress . Now I have it sewn into this dress again. Actually, it seems to me that Mary Tudor's border now seems to be integrated into the dress itself, but it looks slightly different in this Jane Seymour portrait. and I think it's very popular, but the jewels sewn around the neckline were actually sewn into the curtain and not the dress itself, so you can see where Jane's red dress ends and then the jewels sit on top of it , so they must be sewn on her curtain again, you can see her Chinese dress which is lined with the black embroidery there and while we're here, by the way, I told you about the front lace up French dress and if you had a front lace up French dress .

I would have to wear a breastplate to cover the laces and here you can see with Jane if you see the little pins right on the side, I thought it was the breastplate that she wears instead, the other pieces of jewelry for a lady would be his belt. Would you like to fix my girdle? I feel like I'm breathing without my pearls. I'll just keep it in her place, so a belt that was a very expensive piece of jewelry again, quite often. bejeweled, you could have a tassel on the end, a crucifix, a pendant, a panda so you can keep the smells away, if you want, you could just sit with your commander whenever it got too smelly, um, I've heard too The rings may also be scented, so you could just gently lift the ring up to your nose if you wanted to keep bad odors away.

This is a long piece, so excuse me for a moment, I just have to adjust my curls. So, um, and then the last thing would be the two bracelets, if you can see, Mary Tuna here has two jeweled bracelets, very often they would have a couple of bracelets that they wore in the car and obviously a multitude of rings, that's evident. and I think we're probably reaching the end, so I'm apart of my hood, I'mpractically fully dressed and ready to go, so this is how a lady in the 1530s gradually built up her wardrobe and prepared for her day at court and I will be happy to answer any questions you may have or if you want to touch any of the fabrics or want to know something else, we will certainly be happy to answer any questions and stay.

I have a few copies of the books lying around if anyone is interested in purchasing them and Zarina will be here to talk to you about tudor dresses and any of your tutoring needs if you are now dying to find yourself chewed again for Christmas. and thinking you have a teammate, of course I have to give you a health warning, although if you have a maid you won't stop. I now have four and they are so bulky that they take up more and more space in your closet. My 21st century clothing is progressively being limited to a smaller part of the wardrobe, so yes, yes, I'll be happy to answer any questions.

Could you go hunting in that outfit? You know the hunting question is really interesting because I looked everywhere when I was writing the book to try to find out what women wore when they hunted. It's so hard to imagine you can hunt in this. I mean, you can't really raise your hands that far above your head. You know you are. I've done archery in these suits, so you can certainly do archery and we've done falconry, um, but if you imagine the saddles, I don't know when you've seen the saddles of... I mean, there are one that exists, I think it's in Stratford and it has this little saddle there's nothing, you know, the horn that they have with the Victorian style, so they didn't even have that in the 1530s, so they sit on these hawks, I don't know how they did it.

The only thing I've seen is that there's a woodcutter, Elizabeth the first, who I think is the kind of person who does the honors, there's a deer that's been killed and she's wearing a very formal kind of girl like this, I think it's It's more of an English scam, but it fits pretty well, but there seems to be a real dearth of information about what they want to hunt and I've asked all sorts of different people who do reenactments and you know, they do a lot of things with Tudor. clothing and yes, I don't have a satisfactory answer, but it's hard to really imagine, but of course, their hunting was quite different too, so you know, when we see hunts galloping through the countryside, they made sure that their hunts were more controlled, so there was some kind of i don't remember the name but it was like a cheap hunter they would find the deer and then drive them in front of where they were waiting so there's an account with ann um hunting i think it's the french ambassador at some point in the early 1530s and it literally talks about the deal being conducted in front of them with a crossbow so they just stood there so I don't think they always went out hunting at a pace even though they'd be pretty nice to think that yes, exactly, um, and the same with falconry, you know, they would throw the bird off the fist, but obviously they didn't go after what happened.

They had falconers that ran into the hedges and caught the prey and I did all that, so it was like I went home many times, yes, yes, many poses, but you know you and the dance, you know the pavement, such a majestic dance , but when you wear these dresses you start to understand right away, you know, you know why they danced that way, it was when you get this beautiful movement with the skirts, when you start to move, it's just you know we've been pretty static, but they have a lovely lovely way to sway and shake them while you walk and when you dance and do that kind of dance step with really beautiful skirts, they keep the waist quite comfortable, they don't pull you in well, no they weren't meant to. constrict waste, it was just meant to give you that beautiful definition of the lifted bust, really, um, and they're comfortable, I mean, who often say God, but once you're tied to your body, it seems to accommodate it and gives you a lovely posture no slouching like you know you have to behave very elegantly it really lends itself to elegance and grace that's what we love about them I'm still waiting to go in my life ambition is to go to Waitrose dressed like that It's fun , so when the women were pregnant they just let them loosen up, yes they even have a slide.

There we go, pregnant women for you, so yes, they loosened the laces on the dress and that's what you'll read about it. The laces were released and quite often they inserted an additional panel of material called a stomach. I think it's the same thing, although it's used a little differently here and that's what they did. They continued to leave, as far as I can tell, they just left. They took the lace off the dress and put in the extra material and yes, what they did with women's other intimate needs is a little more baffling. I've heard, of course, maybe, but people were pregnant for so many years and maybe it fed them to the point that I didn't have the last problems in the world, that's so good, but yeah, yeah, I mean, well, that's true, I mean, you know, when you do the research on Tudor families like I did for LTV and I was trying to find out who you know at LTV. little d'angelo, I always call it ltd for short, um, you know, you constantly run into massive families of ten people, more and more, and more, and then some, and uh, yeah, I mean, it seems to be a round annual of being pregnant, really. yeah unless you were amberlynn yeah yeah yeah anyone else but it's about men's clothes well yeah can you remind me we had a chat a few weeks ago about what men wore and you know big pants and baggy?

Yeah, Henry ate four and they had a really weird name that he told us I can't remember it's something like a kindle bully or it's a really really weird name well I have to put my hands up and say I can guess I'm not you know , I know much less about men's clothing and they are equally baffling, but they are often a doublet and a hose, well this is Dublin, the hose with the structures too, yes, well she gave us a very strange one, but there could be , you see, yeah, that's the confusion, you get different names. for the same article of clothing, probably local names too, yes, how well do your socks stay up to date?

Actually, these are okay, I mean, yes, I should have brought the photo of Elena Toledo's tights, but I mean, just, yes, they look. I really like to hear right now these are absolutely to stay on, um, but my daughter has gotten into this, obviously, I have elastic, um, but you know, with the garter tied in place, but it's actually quite uncomfortable, I find it quite curious. All I wear are actually the garters that I find the most uncomfortable because they're tied really tight around your legs, thank you, no, no, there's no give, yeah, and you have to keep them pretty tight to keep them up, um, and I'm sure . without any elastic they had to do that to keep the stockings up, otherwise they would have been around her ankles, I mean, actually, I mean, you know, as you saw, I lost my gutter when I came in, I lost my gaster.

Dancing of all kinds too, you know, no, I mean, I think they had boots, yeah, they wore boots, um again, I was trying to research hunting clothes for the novel I was writing and the lady I was talking to said yes. I would have a short boot, um, but and I know later in the century I certainly had them. I mean, there's a beautiful pair of boots from Elizabeth the first, she has all the buttons on the side, it's just exquisite, with heels and the work, but um, so yeah. I think they had boots and probably riding boots, but I think obviously the queen wouldn't have them, but if people weren't walking the streets, they had these little patterns of wooden things, right? to pick them up pick them up off the floor and follow the ones on the floor to take off their shoes yes yes yes those nasty things on the floor wonderful so at what age would they put a girl in clothes like this?

Oh, pretty early, I mean the little one. The children were like miniatures, well, the image we have, they didn't have children's clothes, you know, once, I think they went out in their diapers, they liked it, well, they didn't always use some kind of iron, they did, friends, yes Yes, they did that. Wasn't it a shame when they went riding? Did they wear capes and things like that? And they happened. I mean, they weren't the worst articles of clothing that I've certainly read in true accounts, particularly in the eighth place of capes and such. If there were other items of clothing you could wear around here, I haven't talked about them today of course, they have lovely flavors in the hope that the fleas will jump into the fur and there are portraits, if you look there are a couple of women with their furs flea on their hands etc, there are many differences on how clean they were kept, yes, so they were washed, some say they were not washed very often, since you say you have your garment underneath, which you washed, but They're real bodies, we don't really know, no, but I mean, Henry VIII bathed, I didn't mean he bathed, he had a Bane tower, yeah, in places like Hampton Court, I mean, it was unusual. he had he had a hot water pipe in his mouth it was like a barrel it's like a big barrel so yeah, I mean, he, you know, he definitely made a baby, I don't know how not, the suspenders were the real kind. of what we would call a corset, yes, but they would only go as far as, you know, it's about shape support and definition, right so that women can wear it in the summer?

Maybe they want to protect their delicate skin from the sun and in winter if they are outside they might want more warmth so they would wear something called a flat so you will have seen this in many portraits but sometimes it looks like it is part of the dress and you don't realize that it actually is. a separate piece which makes it very versatile actually because it changes you'll probably see it as it goes on it changes the look of the dress quite significantly even though you're just wearing it you're pretty small tied up basically this is yeah it's all just tied in place um and I mean this is furline it's just oh it's a god that says do it and there's wind I mean it keeps you so warm um I should do my thing so yeah this is a pilot and I'm sorry. you're never here so if your bridesmaid is a lady obviously she has the lady yes a person dressing yeah well that probably probably the bridesmaids servants were probably in the background they certainly would.

I do not attend to their lazy waiting in the queen's chambers, although one often hears of servants lurking in the presence chamber. um, you know, if their masters were eating, they would just stay at the bottom, um, but yeah, but you do. Hear for example that in the Amberlyn coronation procession, you have an ambulance, you have all your ladies in chariots and horses and then right behind you you have servants of all the ladies who were in chariots and horses, but just one step seven that doesn't It doesn't go, so it's interesting, right? Because maybe if there are only ladies' servants, that's where she stops.

Can you imagine everything that is on your front feet? Yes, normally we would tie them on just to anchor the performance, the sloths, yes, they are actually tied with ribbons, yes, just yes, there are ribbons on the dress, ribbons in the holes where the laces do go, like what seam is finished with this seam, I mean, they're actually on a metal. um buttonhole, but at the actual time of production in Tudor times they would have used little medical rings. They put them together, made a hole and an eyelet over them, so they actually had some kind of metal thing, though. they just had little metal rings, if you know they were, they had the means, if it was a simpler peasant then you would just literally make the hole and then do the buttonhole stitch, yeah if you look at the portraits over and over again.

I don't think I'm an expert on the turn of the century, but most of the writing I've done is from the 1520s and '30s, but obviously the hood goes away, more caps appear, and these jolly little Elizabethans appear. Elizabethan cats and you see a lot of hair there, so I think really by the end of the century this idea of ​​having to keep the care covered really went away, but they still wore headdresses and it's all part of the ornamentation, I was very proud. of her hair, yes, and a lot, but a lot of it showed that this was not just a kitten, the little hats and the sofa, the influence, she was the queen, she could do whatever she wanted, yes, absolutely you.