DIY Laminate or Vinyl Flooring A to Z

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laminate

flooring

click, We will teach you all the tips. and tricks and secrets so you can get a quick and fast professional result that will last a long time, so before we talk about our product today, let me quickly encourage you if you haven't subscribed to the channel, we have a lot of great information here to help people like you so today it's click

laminate

flooring

and the reason we're making this video because we've done a laminate floor installation is because I think this is the most popular DIY product on the market.

There are plenty of people who can install this with a minimal amount of tools, experience, and understanding, so we'll go over the benefits of why this is such a great product. First of all, it is easy to install. This product simply fits into the slots. The ends are blocked. on top or the other piece next to it and as a result, as long as you stagger the seams correctly, you will get a perfect fit without any corners sticking out and you will be able to do it yourself about half the time you have that type of floor. where you have to hit them, hit the boards and secure them, so this is a great DIY project that you can do in an average room in about 3 or 4 hours if you have a helper with you.

Well, it will probably take you all day to install it. The floor cut out the doors and cut out the trim, but in one day he got a whole new room, which is why this project is popular now. This particular floor is a twelve millimeter floor, so it's a decent quality. It already comes with the bottom pad. attached to the back and that takes a whole step of the project, so before we start on the floor, let's talk about preparation. Okay, the preparation for doing new flooring work, of course, is that you have to leave the existing subfloor in the condition it is in.

You are ready to lay your new floor, that means it has to be tight, you don't want it to move, this is a very old floor, it is an inch and a half softwood and it is nailed through the tongue and groove in the joists that are at 16 inches on center you can see that all the joints are for the floor which helps identify where the boards are underneath and the easiest way to do this is to just walk around and have someone look to see if the boards They are moving and if they move. If you're moving what you want to do is line up on the joist line and just have some deck screws in there and tighten everything down nice, once you're done and you've got the floor tight keep the drilling screws handy in just in case you find something in the way, but that's all you need to do to prepare the floor.

If you already have flooring in the room, I always suggest that before laying the laminate flooring you remove the old flooring because it doesn't have the capacity. to inspect your subfloor and that's important if you have holes or you have squeaky spots or you have things that move, you want to take care of that early because once you put down your new laminate floor, if it moves too much, it's going to break the seams and it's not going to to last a long time. The other thing you should do before you start is to make sure you sweep and vacuum your room when you have tongue and groove joints like this that are over a hundred years old.

Actually, vacuum each of these spaces because we're going to create an area here where when you step on a floating floor, there will be some air movement under the floor and that will encourage dirt to blow around, so if you can, get everything . Now it won't creak later and yes just remember your laminate floor can go over concrete just make sure you use a vapor barrier as part of your underpad and you can always talk to your flooring supplier how about getting that product? so let's quickly talk about the laminated product itself, it comes in a variety of different thicknesses that are available in a variety of widths.

I like to have a board that is about four inches long. Find the biggest ones and on many floors there is too much movement and you can't follow the contour enough without having hollow spots underneath, so that's my personal preference. This particular floor has a hand-scraped texture. Some of them have a wood grain texture. Some of them have no texture at all. They are brilliant. flat, there are a variety of differences, some of this product is even good for wet areas, so make sure that if you do it in a bathroom or laundry area, check the product and make sure it is made for that area, That's why I like laminate instead of

vinyl

.

Really, it all comes down to cost. This is the most cost-effective flooring on the market if you are looking for a quick solution to brighten a room or clean up a space. This is the way to go if you are on any kind of budget. on this whole product I actually got a little deal because it was at the end of inventory it's a dollar for six to nine square feet and it already has the bottom pad on so I don't have anything else I need on this project Wade installs It's just a fall from the boom.

They are together and tight, you have a tongue and groove and the boards will continue to install the same way, just line up, snap together and you're done, that's the installation procedure so just do that a few hundred times in the room is fine finished, so what we're going to do now is show you how to distribute it because I get a lot of questions like this. Which way should I go? I go down the long wall, down the short wall, start at the door or across the room and the answer is simple. I prefer to start on the longest wall I can start because the grain of this long board on a long wall is aesthetically pleasing, now in this situation the room is a little bit more square, so we're going to go in the same direction on the which are the existing boards now and that will help follow the contour of this old house that is here and also gives us the ability to come to the front door in a situation where my door will be here and these boards will end up in that space .

It's a much easier way to finish on a door. If you come this way then your cut should be exactly perfect cutting into the jamb and around the baseboard is quite complex but if you do it this way towards your door you will find that you only have one cut on each side of the door which which makes installation really quick and easy, okay, so this is going to be something like this. how to install flooring for beginners first if you don't do this regularly and you don't have good calluses on your knees get yourself some knee pads okay these are very nice they are soft there is nothing hard about them.

Cover them, you won't be rolling around all the time, just make sure you're always sitting nice and upright. The elastic straps that hold this on really tend to pinch if you're sitting on your feet a lot, so try to avoid that. Doing that next, remember that there are two ends, there is one that has just a square end here that is designed for us to fall on top of the lock and there is the one that has the extension on the board and because you want to install a floating floor with space. to expand and contract you have to be careful because if you put this right up against the baseboard you already have a gap, so what you want to do is maybe start laying the floor at the other end of the room, okay?

What I'm going to do is show you a technique where we'll build the first few rows and then we'll pull them out of the wall where we want them and then we'll set a pile of wood on top of the floor to keep it from moving while we build the rest of the room. , so before we begin we will remember that we want these joints to move and change location regularly when We want the spaces, the distance between those joints to be significant enough that force is transferred from one board to the next so that the floor does not separate.

Yeah, to do that we want to remember that this area here with the tab is It's going to be what we call the finished edge, the clean edge and we want the cut to be on the inside of the board, so I'm going to start by cutting three boards in three different areas and yes, this is my Roberts clipper, it's like a guillotine. anyone can use this or this or this or this or this just remember when cutting with these tools do it outside, the dust is horrible and wear your safety glasses. I will cut a board in half, the third board of wood.

Okay, and then a 2/3 board and this gives me the ability to start four rows at a time and that way, when I finish these first four rows, I can fix the space and put those other boards on top, okay? , so once. you start, there are basically two design options that you have and I'll lay them out real quick. One is that it is a constant step and you go from a large board to a smaller one. Oh, if you see junk like that, make sure you delete it. I don't want to have anything in the joint, okay, a smaller board just between the boards, just a smaller board, ah, blah, blah, and then the whole process will start again, then your floor constantly goes down and that pattern becomes repeats on the floor, some people.

I like that look personally, I think it looks too intentional and man-made and I'm not a big fan. I like to mix it up a little. I like long-short, long-short and that's just my preference. There is no really right or wrong way. Now we're going to show you the installation technique, so you put it in the slot, you slide it to make sure they make good contact and then you let it drop well and you'll notice that things are not there. I'll sit very comfortable right away, just put a little weight on one side and work, pulling it in that direction while pushing down and everything will be fine.

I'm going to place the next board until we have some weight on this floor. I'm going to want to move well so you can use your leg, do it like this and then we'll fall short again. Now we have something we can work with. These first cuts, as strange as it may seem, what I'm going to do with them is. I'm going to put them aside until almost the end of the work and we'll use them in the last rows when we meet in the room. I just don't like having them in the way, so at a point now where we're almost ready to go into production, we want to finish our two rows and we always have our big tongue in front of us, okay, as you build and the way what are you going To measure from here to the wall, you must rotate the board in the reverse direction.

Place the board against the wall. Take a black magic marker and right on the edge of this corner I want you to take off a quarter of an inch, which is basically the extension. of the tongue on the first board plus another quarter inch that you want to shorten on purpose, here's why that's going to be the gap in the second quarter inch, which is going to be the floor space for a little bit of expansion. shrinkage now, generally, if your house has conditioned space such as air conditioning and heating system, there is not much expansion and contraction, but if you live in a house where you do not have air conditioning and you have a hot summer, then we will see that your floor will have varying degrees of adjustment, so remember that the hotter and humid it is, the larger your floor will be so you can make adjustments based on its condition.

Some people use a half-inch gap around the outside. of the room and use 3/4 inch wire just because they are in extreme conditions, but traditionally a quarter inch will do the job, so here we go, there's my cut. I don't need it right now, but I'm going to use that to start another row here. Okay, this is how it works, so every time you cut a board after you've done your first view and you put them aside, each board you cut now put one on one side and you start a row on the other side and from that way you don't throw anything away, so again we'll leave it and take another board.

Now remember I'm starting tight on the other wall and so on. when we get the first few rows in mostly, slide it in and close the gap a little bit, but for now we just want it to be nice and nice and tight and then we'll cross it and then we'll drop it and just give it a little tap like that will help manipulate everything in position, here we go again, we'll place it against the wall and mark a quarter inch after the base so that the finished floor is, the end of the rough floor. of space and we'll mark our floor there so here's our little bit so everyone who's wondering if that type of cutter is going to be able to cut me just a little bit the answer is yes it goes the same way slide it in and then lay it flat and That's it, if you see the edge of the board has any damage, tear it off and clean it.

Anything with damage like that will close properly, just push it into the corner, remember you'll be sweeping as you go there. come on there's not much room it's shorter than the board so again I flip it over and measure the same way my foot is under the finish on the floor finish board in my space now work on most of the floors, when you put them together, they call it click on the floor because thefloor actually makes a clicking sound when it's placed correctly, so this will be the secret, we'll see if we can get the microphone out here to pick this up there, okay, here we go, that way everything fits together.

Perfect, the secret to doing a job like this is to be 100% happy with everything you do before moving on to the next, if you're not happy with what you just did, take it apart and try to figure out why you're not happy, You might find that something isn't tight enough, there might be some debris in the gap so it doesn't close properly, but if you keep moving forward, there's no way to go back and fix it later. So basically we have our first five rows done and before we continue, what I'm going to do now is take this original cut piece here, we'll wait here and we'll get the tech.

I'm damaging this board and it's okay. I'll treat it like garbage, but what I want to make sure is that in the first few rows everything is okay and tighten one of the things about the click lock system, just because it's in doesn't mean it's in perfect condition, they can open. up and it's got a space on the right so it looks good you hear that click okay so down below there's a space now listen that's a click lock okay and when you do the first few rows it's hard to get that clicking sound because things are not perfectly straight, you need the first few rows before you straighten it out, so what I suggest before you continue, give everything a little touch with love and make sure everything is nice and tight, then you will not be disappointed and your floor will not be affected.

Don't open up after the fact too quickly, we better show you how to move the floor into position because remember we want to have a constant gap on both sides and on the back wall. Now after doing five rows it can be quite heavy and you may find that the laminate finish is too slippery, it has a good grip, this is where the tape comes in, it's okay, literally hold the tape down and hold the edge of the tape and you can remove that floor from the wall, now you can also push. but if you try to pull it you may find it a little difficult, so use the tape.

The other thing you can do if you have a board that comes apart and you need to kick it back into position, just put some tape on it. down and the reason you want this, this helps give you a little bit of something for your shooter to kick and you can use it to manipulate your floor, get it into position, okay, so we'll check our gap on both ends. I like it to be perfect, so now to keep this from moving on us, you want to add weight. Each of these boxes weighs about 60 pounds, and when you're done, pack up all the rest of the floor in the room. doing two things, hey, you're getting it out of the way because you're installing a floor in the room and B, you're putting enough weight on that floor that you just put in and put into position to keep it from moving now remember that because this is a direct locking system we no longer need to use a hammer now that we have started it and straightened it we have everything tightened now we are ready to start and let's build a floor now it's time for the time lapse and then we can show you the tips and tricks for deal with the doors and putting them in after the fact, chances are some of them will have to be cut off, okay?

So we are done with the basic square meters of the room. Now we've reached a couple of places where it's good to talk about the final details. You can see it only took us about 20 minutes, maybe 30. You know, if you're new. to this and you're starting out for the first time, you might expect it to take about an hour, but I'm telling you, once you get used to the cut and get into the rhythm, we can start making it pretty. quick if you have help or it makes everything much faster so here we are this is what we call a quarter round and if you look at it it looks like a quarter piece of cake that's what it's called basically and we use this as our molding is closes from the floor to the baseboard, and the way we do it is the inside corner is going to be cut at a 45 degree angle and over here we're going to take it right up to where the door frame meets.

So we're just going to make a pencil mark here where the door frame is and we're going to cut this one at 30 degrees and that opens it up a little bit so it looks clean and finished if you cut it square it looks stupid. it's a nice smooth angle and it will work great and what we use to install it is a nail gun and we're only using inch and a quarter nails now this setup here with a pneumatic tool with a gun on the hose and the compressor you can get at the Local Home Depot the Husky machine I think when I bought it it came with the hose and a nail gun.

I don't remember exactly but I think the whole set is under $200 and of course once you have a hose you can get interchangeable tools, you can get your staple gun for the quarter inch plywood, you can get a ratchet so you can use power tools to work on your cars, so having a compressor, the compressor itself, costs you a hundred dollars. I don't need to spend a fortune on these types of tools. I'm hard on them. I probably go through one a year because I don't treat them well, but for me they have something this versatile for a hundred dollars a year. that's just money in the bank as a homeowner, if you really take care of your tools they will last you a lifetime, so you can do all the trimming in your house, all the carpentry done, everything you need and you can also put a bit. blower at the end of this and you can use it as an air broom and you can clean things and clean the dust in the room, clean your computer and everything else with that too, very useful, we definitely suggest having that is one of those tools that every homeowner should have if you're going to DIY, you don't want to spend the day running around between little finishing nails and a hammer trying to hammer in all these trims like it's 1950, which I'll just take.

You forever and you're going to waste your entire weekend doing something that can be done in about 10 minutes, so here we go, once we have a measurement we just run up to the saw, cut it out and glue it into place. We pulled one of these Brad nails. on every 16 inches, every 2 feet, we're done, so let's talk efficient because this is the one place in the entire room where homeowners always get it wrong and it screams DIY, they don't cut the casing or slide the floor. below and the reason for this is that they probably just don't know what tool to use or how to do that job properly or maybe you hired someone to do some work on your house before and they were lazy and didn't do it. correctly, but here's the secret, take your flower, turn it upside down and buy one of these.

It's now called a dovetail saw, ok, because of the way you can hold the handle flush with the ground and still cut without rubbing your knuckles. reversible left and right you push this down and you turn it and then it locks into position to cut in the other direction okay so all we do is put it on top of the floor and the reason we use this upside down piece is for measurement only. the deficit and this is not about strength, it's about speed, okay, too smooth, it means you get to the traffic jam, which is this stuff here, you can stop or you can continue, you can go through the whole traffic jam, it doesn't really matter, but The goal is to get to the other side of this case clean, so you're probably going to cut off some of the socket as well and that's okay, no damage because doing this when we're getting close to the end instead of trying.

To put all your strength in the front, try to use the push up, push against the heel like these types of movements and then you'll get the back of that cut right and the way you'll be able to tell if it's done, just take your reliable. knife there's probably some putty and adhesive there we go there we go now we have it all there may only be a little bit left and you can take your knife and cut off that little bit of trim that's left once you have it Now that it's all clean you'll see that the floor will slide under the molding and you will get a perfectly clean line and there is no need to cock it.

This is absolutely beautiful if you add caulking after the factory really makes it look ugly. detracts from the situation, remember that the only reason they use cocking in the first place is because someone cut the hole too big and they had to close the gap, so if you use this type of fine-tooth saw, the blade saw itself is very thin. It's like microscopic the difference that will be on your floor now if you don't have one of these, you can go to the store for about 20 dollars and buy one or if you have a PVC saw, same effect, so look for two thin ones. blade, this is the cheap little saw from Irwin Fine 2 saw the same effect, all you do is just put the floor there and you can do the same effect, okay, I'll do the same, okay, these are ten dollars, they are a bit. flimsy, but if you are a DIY homeowner sometimes it is not what you can buy but what you can use that works, as long as it is a flexible fine tooth saw, the same process you will also get a great result.

Let's talk about our transition. This floor only goes to this room. I won't take it to the rest of the house. We used a different floor for that, so there will be a transition and the general rule is this when you do a transition anywhere. on your floor you want that transition to be right in the middle under the door, so here I'm going to show you here's the door jamb, this represents the outside of the door, there represents the inside of the door, you want your floor go right to the one in the middle where the transition is except this is a laminate product the transition will look different it will be about a half inch wide it will be a metal track that screws to the floor okay and then there will be like a equipment. molding and it will snap into that metal rail and it will go on top of each of the laminates so we actually want to go right to the jamb with our flooring okay we don't want to go into this area because the transition itself will close the gap from here to here knowing that because the transitions are traditionally an inch and a half smelly, inch and a quarter, as long as your floor comes up to the edge of that, everything will be fine, so to be able to do this ourselves we give the back to this we put our finished floor there okay and we're going to mark right there we're going to cut exactly to fill here and in this particular case we're not going to use our guillotine because we want to get a nice clean cut in this situation I'm going to use the jobs, so here's our Maryland neighborhood and here's our mark with our 30 degrees, so we're going to set our saw to 30 degrees.

I'll block her instead. I'm just going to put them on the blade, up there, done, and then I'm going to push this all the way in, the other side I'm going to set it to 45, which is my inside corner miter and the idea here is that I want the blade to cut from the tip to down so as not to make it shorter now that the piece is ready to install so here is the floor piece this is the one that goes into the room and this is where we are going to finish it on the door now just keep this baked finish in mind here it comes from the factory this is much stronger than the type of finish you get on the site finished floor this is baked on it is very much a glaze you want to cut the foot board when you can it's okay if you're going to use the saw to cut wood, stand it up, line up your saw and you will see that you hit it, you will have to remove the guard from the way, take the saw. starting and go slow, there you have it, that's the finished cut that I can live with perfect and what's the rule when I'm doing floors.

I like to make my cable as it is available. It's probably an OCD issue to be completely honest, but is it that pretty? to see it clean and finished, so what you do is put your gun in the middle, push down and then turn it in a little bit. Well you don't really want to nail the flooring to the subfloor and you never want to nail under an electrical outlet in case the wires coming out from underneath come away and just put one every 16 inches over two feet just to make sure it's okay tight because this is a click laminate floor that you can actually cheat here just a little bit.

You see, we can place it on top of the slot and then slide it over there. Now it doesn't want to sit there perfectly, so what you have to do is lift this side up. a little bit so you can click on this one and you can actually pull, you'll find that's not going to happen, yeah, every once in a while you'll want to hammer something, have a little cut on hand, okay, and the reason why this works great . This is because the contour of the tongue and groove is exactly the same, so you won't damage the face of the board.

If it is closed properly you will sink clean to where the transition will be, this is how you finish the floor, this is easy. From this side of the floor, you lower your body, angle it, slide it, put your fingers in the groove, pull while you wait down,perfect every time you're on this side of the wood, it's so much easier. So when you start, it takes a little bit of time, but from this side it's that easy, so you'll see as I laid the floor here, what it is. I just marked where the floor level is and to make my life easier.

I'm going to cut it after the fact. I just find it easier to install. Good. Bring my jigsaw to place the blade in that hole. I'm using a 3 inch drill bit so you know, 3/8 hmm and this is it. why I like to do it after the factory because I can cut it perfect every time, okay, so we're two-thirds of the way through the project, I don't know, and as far as the floor goes, we have a few more. There are details left that I want to discuss and these are really one of them important is that your doors you need to consider if the doors still work after you put the new flooring down and you want to know that in advance because if you take the flooring up to the door and then it doesn't open, it's really hard to get it back out, so double check and make sure you have some space.

This door isn't going to clear, so what we're going to do is show you the ugly piece of floor in my system in front. and if you want to take a good look at this pencil, if I hold it like this, I actually get almost a quarter of an extra inch. I'm going to hold it like this and mark the door on the top of the floor so that when I cut This door I'm not just cutting it to barely fit, I'm cutting it to make it fully functional. I'm also going to check with the door open because old houses are famous for having different heights and different variations so just double check and here it really clears up so we know we're opening from a high point to a low point so If I remove that door and cut it in that position, it will work great, so we want to get that out of the way. right away, so the way I removed the hinge pins is I use a drill bit, just clean it from the side, once you get a little bit, you can use the claw on the hammer, pop it open and that's it, and here we are.

Come on, we're going to take this out of the room and when we're done, I'm going to install it and I'm going to cut the door and I'm going to show you how to make it very strong, so now that we've reconfigured all the tools. We have changed our workstation. We are setting up our cutting station. I have a moving blanket here on the floor, just because it's a new floor and it has a nice durable finish, doesn't mean I want to risk it, so I always cover the new floor surface when you're working on it and this gives us the opportunity to catch up on our sweep again.

Remember the preparation. As we work, we create dirt and blow. dust, so it was a good time to clean the surface one more time before finishing. Well, there are really only two steps left to making a floor that you will need to know and that is the closet area. has a unique challenge that associates the closets and that is that their closets usually come and are integrated into the room, so now we have this wall that divides one section of the floor with the other and as we come here we will have this intersection. which you have to think you have to pay attention beforehand and come up with a strategy to do this because as you can see this board goes here and it's very well made we can cut and install that last piece and then I can put on that board what happens with this?

You know, mine is supposed to take a jigsaw, cut it in half and try to try to nail it. I can't do that, okay? So what you need to do is realize that in this situation we will want to install the floor from the middle going in both directions, which is a bit contrary to what we have been showing and there is a secret to doing this, so you plan to go from two different directions because it's a drop lock for this board. Do you want to start right here, outside the gym? Okay, and this board is the one you want to cut and measure first and if not you can measure that board first and install it from that side and then use a knock block to push it in. under the molding we used our song for all that molding oh okay we actually took a bent tail saw and cut the whole casing down to the baseboard around this side okay the reason we can do that it's because we're going to add shoe mold all over the base, so it's not going to cause us any problems, but it's going to give us the flexibility to push this edge, push this floor underneath, so what I want to do is Measure here first with my marker , mark my spot where it will slide under the baseboard and in the case, just to make sure I'm going to be right in a measurement from the jamb to the floor, it looks like my mark is 2 and 3/4.

Okay, there's plenty of room, okay, and then I want to mention this so that my finished edge is in line with this Jam because that's what it's going to connect to, and you can just look at this to start right there. we can cut this right after the corner, we're going to use shoe mold or lace over here, so it doesn't matter, let's give ourselves a little bit of room and then put my marker in and then I'll just pull, okay, no, I already have my cut. and I'm just going to run over to my hand saw set up on both sides and of course it's outside because that desk is really brutal and I'm going to cut this piece and then we can come and set it up and measure and cut the other piece and I.

I'll show you all the tricks so you can finish this. I'm going to start with the middle of the floor instead of the edge, take it to where we want it, get it into our slot and lock it properly into place now. What we want to do is take our hammer, take one of its shortcuts, line it up underneath, and then use the cut areas as a hitting block. Remember that the contour of the impact block matches the rest of the laminate exactly, so if you leave it flush. to the ground and hold this together, it will have a perfect transfer of energy without causing any damage.

Now you can see that it's below the outline here, so there's no need to copy it anywhere. Here we will get the quarter round shoe mold so you can cut yourself. a little generous on the back here, make sure you have plenty of room to make this joint again not perfect because this is the click lock, you can actually lift this edge up a little bit so you can fit it in nice and just hit it's a Yankee, fit it in the butt, done, look, that's beautiful, now we can go back to our cuts, make sure you establish your space on the wall, come on and this is just a matter of measuring the cut to finish, so here we are.

We'll do another quick little time lapse. We will reach the end of the project. We will do all the cutting, starting and finishing. We'll make sure we're recording, as we call it. Our joining lines are staggered and mixed. looks good, now we are practically at the last step, besides cutting the door next to install the floors against the wall, obviously the space left is not consistent with the width of the board, so we can't we use our cutting tool, we can't use our circular saw to cut this wood, so now we have to do something else.

I suggest that if you have a table saw that is the best tool for the job, you can also use a skill. saw, you can actually take this board and you can clamp it to something else and then run your hand saw and cut the piece. You could use a jigsaw if you had to, but point is anything that cuts something long and in a straight line will work fine, you won't see the cut line because it will be covered by that quarter turn we showed earlier, so don't Don't worry too much about how perfect it is and give yourself some space to work.

Alright, the biggest mistake people make here is making it too tight and then I have to fight with it to get it in. They damaged your sockets and then you will have problems with expansion and contraction because it is too tight, so the first one. What you want to do is find your two pieces, measure them and cut them to size so that they fit comfortably in the space and now you have your template. Okay, now it's time to use the tape measure. I'm going to measure it from the wall to here. up to here, all right, and that will create a smaller gap than you need and leave that quarter inch gap that you want to have after you finish installing the floor, so measure the gap here to the finished floor is a inch and 3/4 but up to the button to the slot extension here is only an inch and a half and then you're going to take your tape measure and you're going to measure from the finish of the floor to an inch and a half and you're going to make them work well, does that do? sense, so we're actually measuring the smallest part of the space and cutting off the finished floor, so we went with the quarter inch strap on and we're done here, it's at the quarter inch and half an inch and a quarter so each end is a different depth so I have an interesting corner on one end about an inch and a half on the other take one of the floor boards and set it up and this is one of the reasons why you want to remove that quarter of inch, it's nice to have. a little mercy here, okay, connect your dots and that will be your cutting line for your table saw.

Okay, this one is a little simpler, it's just an inch and a half on both sides, the one where you can leave your mark, place your fingers. into the slot and pull it tight, now that we have our two pieces, you're going to go down to the table saw, we're going to rip it out and then we're going to go in and drop them once, I mean literally the same thing. process you're going to put your tongue in the slot I'm just going to give it a moving edge and put it in and that's it okay so the last step of the floor before we cut the doors and install them is just to put in the strips that we cut Of course we cut them on purpose, remember to watch the space at the end and just place them.

No, this is not completely done, it's not tight, so use your knife and move forward a little. Pressure, okay as you push down, here we go, if you're not sure if it's down enough, you're going to lose, just do it like this, try it and I'll close it tight and squeeze, remember. You'll have a wire around it to cover everything, don't be too picky or too hard on yourself, as long as you can see the gap close, see the gap close, push it down when you push it down if the gap opens. Push it forward again, tell us until you can push it without the gap opening.

Click action. I heard that click, click there, you hear that noise, you know, oh my gosh, gold, and then you just take the cable and you cover it all up so one of the benefits of this product is now the room is ready and that's the only garbage What are you throwing? I love not buying material that goes into the trash, so here's a little extra feature for this video and it's kind of necessary because in a lot of boxes and you're adding 12 millimeter laminate, you need to cut the doors. Well, since we marked the surface of the door that you will see from the room before we begin, you will want to protect the door especially.

If you're done painting, look at the marks caused by the song. Okay, whether it's a bipod or not you're going to see the back and you can mark the back. I suggest you do it, but in this situation it is like that. These types of circular saws have a steel plate and that is what keeps it from going crazy and twisted and that still rattles. We're dragging your finished painting around and making a mess, so we covered it with tape real quick. Here is our pencil line. You'll want to set the depth of your saw relatively to the same as the door, it will decrease the amount of splintering it will cause and doors are interesting by a quarter, so we'll set these operations to half, which would be more.

More than enough, make sure you get past the hinge or you'll have to cut from the other side and that's a little trickier. Here we go, now we can establish our brand here. This particular saw, that zero line is where the blade is. we're going to cut and then remove so we can put it right on our pencil line, set the depth of the blade to that almost too perfect, now you can actually use an outdoor tape in great shape, use it just to scrub the door real quick so that it's nice and sanded, it's time to glue it back on.

Typically you wouldn't remove a door. I'll let the paint be nice and practical and all you do is glue the top down nice and then you can work on the bottom. there we go perfect, sometimes they have a core that is about an inch long and when you cut it you can peel off the face of the car door and reinstall it with glue and a couple of nails in this situation, that core has It has been cut because it is already a personalized door. He's been pulling a number cutting her again. If there was any court left, it would be so small.

It's worth worrying about, but if you have the time and energy and still have a core, by all means, sit back. You can reinstall it if you're worried about spiders or mice, whatever will get up in the door to make a home there, you can always use some low expansion foam for windows and doors, and you can seal the bottom of the door and then trim it later. Well, thank you for joining us for this complete instructional video on how to install flooring.laminates, especially the click version. Many of the tips and tricks in it are good for

vinyl

or hardwood and also other types of laminates, but we just want to make sure.

If you are going to be able to start this project at home, you have all the tools you need to be able to finish it like a professional. Thank you so much. Listen, if you haven't subscribed to the channel yet, do so. Check us out on Instagram, but most importantly check out the rest of the A to Z video playlist we have. We have many instructional videos that will teach you all the secrets of the different crafts so that you can be a good painter and a Good set-up and good try. Waller will be happy to fix up your house.

See you next time.