DIY Battery Spot Welder - Demonstration & Explanation

Hello everyone. I thought I would do a quick demo video of my

spot

welder

. This is very, very easy. I've literally soldered a bunch of packages, well, a lot of parallel packages. Anyway, here's one and I have several more. I'm here I'm done, one just gave this a whirl, it was easier to solder and these are yet to be done, so it's just a

demonstration

of how to make a strip of this, it's very easy, all I'm doing is Send down a strip, just bend it a little so that it is elastic towards it, align it well first.

I'm going to do a quick one here to get everything lined up right, so I've got my button up to the solenoid. and if I give it a quick hit, I'm just going to keep a little bit of pressure on this bit here with my right hand and do a quick hit with my left, okay, and those are one of the other, so I'm going to continue with Next, I let this pretty good and I know how long to hold it down because it's literally just two down and up almost and it gets pretty good. I'm just turning that over just to do the other side.

Okay, this is not like that. I'm going to say I'm going to go to this one here because it's easier to do it in the middle than at the end and just do that and keep pulling the button down. I mean, this might be easier on one foot. pedal but to be honest at least I put a stopwatch in its place which I actually have a stopwatch I have a timing board that I was going to put in its place I don't use it now somewhere around here oh here we go like this volts, take it off.

I bought this timing plate here. I'll put a link, it's eBay stuff. I'll put a link in the description but basically you can set it to turn it on and off after a certain period of time and you can set it from a fraction of fractions of a second up to hours and you just have to change these jumpers a little bit well if you want for a longer period of time, so I might put it online and then that will give me totally consistent Wells, but to be honest, I'm doing pretty well. I'm pretty consistent anyway so I'm probably not going to bother and I'm happy to do it this way.

I'm fine. there's no problem and those welds are pretty good and then you have it there's one of my parallel pecs for this 4p tennis package that I'm soldering and yeah it's very easy I mean I've shown you the design before but we have a 16 mil square wire here going into the chocolate box, we call them basically on the natural connector. There's something, I think it's a two and a half thousand copper core cable. In England it is called twin and earth. It is actually a solid copper rod. but yeah, twin and l4d2 and 2.1 million ground, this is just a standard box automotive switch, a momentary switch, it's normally wired so that when you press a there's a light, but obviously I don't need this to just be intercepting. the power going to this solenoid here is fine, so the solenoid takes its power from the positive and negative of the

battery

.

You have a wire coming out of the negative here or negative and going to the switch all the way. here the switch, so you know you press the switch down which then connects the excuse me, the negative and gives the negative to the solenoid, while the solenoid is constantly connected to the positive, so all you are doing with the switch is break the negative feeding. to this solenoid itself and the solenoid is just a normal TV or scooter starter solenoid or most motorcycles to start a relay solenoid, this one is particularly rated for 150 amps, this

battery

puts out 200 amps and so far I have done very much. of the worlds with this solenoid eleven, no problem at all, this piece here is just a copper jumper that comes from the positive on this side of the solenoid switch and I have some crimp connectors here that go to this 16 mil wire and they just screw on this connector here and the little copper rod should be screwed on this side.

It's very, very simple. You should have both copper rods in contact with your nickel when you flip a switch and that will give you the best and the least. amount of sparking but ultimately any battery that provides at least 200 amps of current will work if it's less than that you'll probably end up with poor welds they're probably cold welds but it could go up it could go up to 800 850 amps that would be a bit excessive, so 200-600 is the range I would go for above that. With this method, you may end up melting your nickel, although I say that if you had your time on your hands, It would probably be okay, you could go up to 800 850 like a heavy vehicle battery or something, but yeah, I hope you enjoyed the

demonstration

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