DHM Big Bore Kit install on my Honda Grom (msx125) - 186cc of PURE POWER!

welcome back to the rad and dad channel or welcome if you are new, congratulations, you have stumbled upon possibly the best youtube channel in the history of the world, today we are talking about something that I love and that is a good bbk, okay , so for those of you who don't know what bbk means, big

bore

kit, the kit is spelled with a k, not a c, so i chose dhm, it's an all inclusive, eh, it comes with a gasket, i need an injector new which is an OEM

honda

, but it is a different injector than the one that comes standard on the

grom

, obviously it comes with the hole and a new piston, it is a 186 dash kit, the good thing about the dhm kit, also, the piston already comes with the rings properly

install

ed and separated and everything, uh and then it also comes with a camera if you need it.

You can select yes or no. I don't have a cam yet so I selected a cam that they paired with it and then you can send them your ecu for a tune. You can either get a new one or nothing. I just chose because it was only a few dollars difference. I just chose to get a brand new ECU already flashed as a basemap for this kit which means I can save my stock and sell it or use it in the future and plus this is a tunable ecu so I can put a uh you know,

power

Commander and send it into a pit, drive it, mount it on a dynojet and have someone tune it further, but this is just a kind of base that you will definitely need.

You can't run the stock ECU on a 186 kit, so I've already done a couple things to the bike before you start looking at the pictures I took of the fairings on both sides. I took out the air box uh let me see, I took out the exhaust and maybe a little clip and you know, connect wires for sensors and stuff like that, just some little things like that, but other than that, you'll see me. uh knock everything down completely and then put this suction cup on oh and it also comes with an oil cooler so let's go ahead and see how obviously you already opened it it's been in my garage for a long time and I hate not opening boxes that true, it's the little ecu, this is my original cluster cylinder, it's already off, but I did it.

You'll see it, don't worry, you'll see me taking it off. It looks like the injector is the actual cylinder. Believe in pistons, yes, cylinder and piston, and it's a different color, so when you drive down the road, everyone will know it well. Anyone who knows anything about stock terrain would say oh that's not a stock

grom

, here's the cam, it's a TB parts cam. a gasket, you know, the radiator hoses and the radiator bracket and that's all she wrote so let's go ahead and unpack the things we'll need first. We will definitely need this camera, oh that's cool, I didn't know about them.

We were going to supply the bearings but the chamber is not you can tell anything by looking at it in the chamber but there it is we will need the injector c it says

honda

I wonder if it says what it is no it doesn't and then the Another thing is that we're going to need the gasket, but I'm not going to take it out until we're ready to use it and obviously the cylinder liner, we're going to take that out and you might be wondering, you know, Chris, you bought a grom. I knew it was a small bike, you already have a Harley, why waste the money and time on such a boring girl?

Well, there are a couple of reasons why someone might want to do a big job, press one if you're a man, two if, huh. you're not a little baby and then three if you're not a little girl I'm just kidding there's one there's one it's super cheap it's stupid cheap like for this whole kit and granted this isn't all you should technically have you know there's a few other things , you know, some valve parts and things that were also updated for people who are going to be very difficult with that and those things I will do in the future, but even those parts cost between 10 and 20, you know, 30 dollars depending What you're doing with this whole kit was around the price of some air filters just for a Harley, so super cheap that this will, hopefully, allow for a lot more torque, which won't make me want to change the stock gearing. the grom so I can maintain some top speed, if anything, I hope to change my speed a little bit and gain a little top speed because the loss of, you know, the felt torque of the gear should even out, if not yet. be more frequent with this kit, so you could gain some top speed and at the same time gain torque when changing the gear, if not, you should at least gain, you know, there are a couple of people who say they are using these kits , maybe not necessarily this. one but a big

bore

kit that sticks with the two valves with the stock honda's two valve valve head and still hits 70 to 70 if not 80 so that would be cool what I could do in the future It is also getting something. work done on my two valve head or upgrade to a four valve head all of which won't be as deep as this but some deep so anyway here we go I thought it would be cool to compare sizes of these puppies no I know if you'll let me see if I can see it first because if I can't see it you guys will definitely never see it, you can see it, let me try it Understand, so I have an idea here, maybe, maybe if I put it like this and put this one below, you can see maybe how much bigger is the decent size, I mean keep in mind you're going from a 150 to a 186 it's not like you're going from a 50 to a 300 you know but it should make a big difference so I'll put this together With some of the parts from this, I'll

install

the injector.

I'm going to go ahead and put this sleeve, the actual bore and the piston on the bike first and then we're going to put the cam on um, turn that off and then we'll have to adjust the valve clearances on the spur of the moment, I can't remember what. they are, but when I do, I'll obviously tell you guys, so let's get back to the bike and I'll show you what I did to install this puppy, so the first step for anything would be to drain the obviously, and then loosen it up, it's not You need to remove it completely, but loosen the cam chain tensioner next to the oil drain plug.

Right now I'm undoing the inspection covers, basically, the top left one is where I see a mark and the middle one is where you can actually turn the engine. Then I'm going to loosen and remove the cam cover. The cam chain and gear have a mark on them, as well as that little inspection hole, the hole you have. You will see a little T when you get to top dead center and then the gear with the chain you will see matches the little arrow on the front and I also included some photos for that once you are sure you have reached top dead center unscrew the bolt that holds the cam chain sprocket and you'll want to make sure you remember where that mark was where the sprocket fell because otherwise it's going to be a pain. to try to get to top dead center again and make sure everything lines up when you put it all back together, so what I did was I used a little marker, I marked where it was and then as soon as I took it off, because I knew the marker didn't would stay I used a zip tie for the exact spot I wanted and then you see, when I put the gear back on, I end up tying the gear to the chain once it's on a little bit and that makes everything a lot easier.

Well now I'm releasing the real one, there's like a little spool that guides the camera, make sure it stays and doesn't get caught, so release that bolt. You'll be able to access it later unless you have the real thing. some really thin angled pliers but I just waited now I basically just loosened all the bolts that hold the head, piston and cylinder together pretty easily so loosen all of those and then everything will come off and make sure you remove everything what you removed and scrape off what's left of the gasket, there is a metal gasket between the valve head and the piston cylinder and then there is a typical foamy gasket that you feel between the bottom end and then the piston cylinder as well which I had to scrape it off and then I put a towel there right in the hole just to make sure there's nothing, no debris or anything in the engine, because then we'd have another problem and now we're ready to remove the actual piston that the piston comes in. piston. the bike has like two little tabs, you basically just pull them out and then there's a little sleeve on the inside that comes out like I said at the beginning.

Dhm already has a pre-gap on the piston so I left it there just to make things easier and not have to fit everything in there so I left it just the end sticking out and then I'll install it with the supplied clips that dhm includes with the original cover. I don't do like me and at this point make sure you put the gasket in because I had to redo everything I just did after realizing I never put the gasket in so follow the same steps just make sure you put the gasket in beforehand , so make sure everything is covered with oil. as it was completely dry and will be the first to meet its maiden voyage, so make sure everything is soaked in oil inside.

Now I put the actual spool that guides the cam chain in there installed so before you put the valve head in place make sure you put that metal gasket that dhm also supplies or you know you should buy another one or if you really want reuse it, make sure that happens before you put everything in there, so before we put the new cam in we're going to need to remove the valve inspection covers and remove the valves themselves, so we'll remove this little latch that's holding them there and then we'll remove the pins that they pivot on and then the actual valves and that will make it nice and easy for us to put the new cam in hmm, once those are removed the cam should slide out, make sure the new cam has enough oil or assembly lubricant, it should practically slide. maybe with a little tighter tolerances because it's new, but other than that it should be pretty simple, you shouldn't have to force anything, then we'll put all the valves back together and put the cam chain back on. and then we're going to adjust the valves here, you see, even with the flange, it was a pain to get it in the right place, but the flange definitely helped not having to look, you know, that was oil rubbed or something, once I got it pretty close I took a flange on the top to bolt on, you know, mold the chain and the sprocket together and then I took the old flange off and then put it back on the cam there's a little mark on the cam where the actual gear fits, which is pretty self explanatory, it's the only way you can get it in and then just tighten it and then make sure you re-tighten the cam chain tensioner after this, all good.

It's time to adjust the valve, so you'll need to loosen it. I will say they make a special tool for this but since I'm cheap I don't have it so I had to make do with what I have, you can do it very easily. without the tool, but I'm sure the tool improves it. You need some feeler gauges. I don't suddenly remember what I did. I should have looked it up, but I'll probably just write in the description if you're really curious, but you'll have to set the valves to whatever your tube manufacturer recommends setting and then go ahead and cover the valves again with the valve covers.

Right now, part of the dhm kit is that oil cooler, the radiator that it comes with and that actually mounts to the lower valve cover, so unscrew everything you just did and put it in there. The kit is self explanatory as to what goes and where you get two. bolts two banjo bolts that go to the left side of the engine. You can see on this frame to the left of the engine where the two threaded holes for those bolts are, but once you get this radiator, place it where you want it and you thread the actual tubes through where you want them and bolt everything together.

You can start assembling the rest of the bike. Go ahead and reinstall the throttle body. Once the throttle body is reinstalled, we will have to change the injector pretty much alone. explanatory it just unscrews from the throttle body and then it's just a friction fit where there's the actual assembly and then there's the electrical wiring harness that you clip on, take the old one off and put the new one in that dhm supplies in which like I said, it's an oem honda one a obviously a different bike put the electrical connector back in place, friction fit it back into the assembly and then screw it back into the throttle body all good second to last step we'll put the whole air box back in or whatever Air filter device you have on the floor, put it back on the throttle body, now make sure everything is assembled with that and then the final step will be to turn off the ECU and then obviously turn the engine back on. exhaust or whatever.

You have to it will be slightly different per bike, as I said at the beginning, the kit I got from dhm, you have the option of flashing your ecu, sending it in and sending it back, and having them send it back, reflash or get a completely new ecu. with the flash on directly from dhm I just chose a new one so in this we are going to remove the old one which is very simple it's just a little tight in there so we need a little help. a friend offlat head, but take the old one off, put the rubber piece on the new one and then put the new one back on, put it back on the little placeholder on the frame and then we'll see if she starts everything.

This is legit, the first start I don't even know if it really starts, it turns on, that's a good sign, everything good, everything goes well here, so the installation is done, as you can see I'm wearing different clothes, this is like one month after. I did, I had a period of time where I shot a bunch of stuff back to back and I had to edit it and whatever you guys don't need to know, the whole story of my life is that it's already done, I've had about 100 or 200 miles somewhere out there, I can't really remember because I reset it twice due to different things I did, but anyway definitely over 100 somewhere maybe let's just call it 150 miles, but on the big bore kit it had around 150, so I have enough experience to tell you that I think it was definitely worth the money.

Completely change the characteristics of the grom. It completely changes the sound and I can't tell you if it's more the cam or the large bore kit. Performance-wise, you know which one is better. Obviously I have them both in the kit so I think the big bore kit is great, it adds a cool custom look, it was pretty easy to make, nothing too difficult really. About this installation, as you can probably tell by my shirt, it's Christmas time, it's actually Christmas morning, when I'm filming this, everyone is still asleep. I got up a little early to finish this, that way I could show him.

On Saturday, the rest of the video has been queued up, uh, pretty much completely edited, so now it's time to film this outing real quick, but yeah, it's definitely good. Obviously I'll post the links to this and the dhm website in the description. of this video as I always do, as well as my merchandise, which if you've never seen it, check it out. I have two different collections there, the classic Ryden Dad logo and then the new school, uh, writing dad, which should be on the bottom left. If you're looking at the screen, which you should be this way, it's a little watermark that I put on most of my recent videos, but anyway I thank you all for watching new and old subscribers.

If you haven't subscribed yet, what? You are doing? Go ahead and hit the subscribe button. Give me a Christmas gift: a subscription. Turn on notifications for your posts because you'll never miss a video if you turn them on. Please watch one of the two videos. Let's make them up here. one of these two videos on the screen. I would really appreciate it if you make sure to click the like button on this video and until next time guys, have fun, dad.