Detailing an EXTREMELY FILTHY SUV!! | Satisfying Car Detailing of a DIRTY Ford Edge

Hello guys, welcome to the video. Today's vehicle is a 2013 Ford Edge. It's safe to say it hasn't been cleaned in a while because it's so

dirty

, so let's take a look, from

dirty

tires and wheels to downright dirty. Dirty rear, this rim has clearly seen its fair share of Maquis winter roads and there is also a ton of salt covering the entire vehicle from front to back and I'm moving in and it's only getting worse as the carpets and mats are incredibly dirty. the leather seats are covered in mud or some kind of sticky gunk and there's more dirt and debris here and I think I've ever seen that on any vehicle I've ever detailed, but just before we get to the video, take a second and subscribe to the channel.

I post a new video every Friday, so make sure you have the bail set too so you'll be notified when those videos are posted. Well, it's time to start transforming this vehicle, so sit back. relax and enjoy, so I'm not sure if you noticed it or not, but it was brutally cold outside while I was taking those first shots, so I'm very, very glad I had my electric pressure washer for a day like this because I don't need The Graduate's doors don't crack, there's no ventilation, it doesn't make a lot of noise, and as you can see, it has no problem with dirt on this vehicle now that I spray the back here.

See how much water vapor there was and that's because it was so cold outside, it was -30 degrees Celsius that day and the wind chill actually made it feel more like -40 and I'm not sure if you can see it, but the water It was freezing. The rear here almost instantly, so I ask a comet I've seen quite a bit lately: why do people get details of their vehicle in winter? I guess some people assume it will get dirty again before I get to the end of my street, which honestly couldn't be further from the truth many times, even though vehicles have gotten dirty from wet roads, the roads eventually dry out or if it is very cold outside, like it is quite winter here, the roads will be dry or covered in snow and ice so vehicles can stay clean for quite a long time, not to mention removing road salt from the vehicle is very important, but I'm also

detailing

the interior of these vehicles and as many have seen.

They are desperately needed at the end of the day, although vehicles are always going to get dirty, whether it's from wet, dirty roads in the winter or wet roads in the summer, and worrying about it getting dirty again isn't really a good reason to knock on the door. On a detailed vehicle and after seeing so much road salt all over the paint on this vehicle, the underside is guaranteed to be covered as well, so spraying it is very important and should ideally be done as often as possible during the winter. so that it can keep the rust away for as long as possible, so with the vehicle dry, I will now turn my attention to the interior and removing the clients personal items and garbage is the first step and since the next step is to pass the vacuum cleaner, I will always make sure to move the seats and look carefully under them so that I can find trash or other loose items that may be hidden before my vacuum cleaner finds them.

I've probably mentioned it before, but the slightly stiffer boar hair detail brush I'm using is really great. to get down into the cup holders to loosen stuck-on dirt because that's definitely an area that can be really hard to reach with a vacuum and for plastics that are more prone to scratches, I'll switch to the ultra-soft version and if you're curious where you can get them. You have the link in the description, so feel free to check them out as you go down to the floors. I know I've been asked several times why I always use my nook accessory. my vacuum and not something larger and honestly the reason is because I get a little more suction when using it since it has a smaller opening but also because I would go absolutely crazy if I had to constantly switch between attachments and I'm pretty sure I would always leave the others somewhere out of reach, so I prefer to use this one as it can be used anywhere inside and overall I feel like it saves me time.

Here is the huge pile of dirt and debris that the vacuum sucked up. of this vehicle, even a couple of chips is fine, so to start with these dirty carpets and use them just with a regular one gallon pump sprayer filled with my Chemical Guys carpet solution which is diluted twenty to one, I will spray a fairly generous amount. and then agitate with the drill to loosen all that gunk and lift it off the fibers and for anyone who's curious, the drill I'm using here is an 18 volt Master Force drill. I probably bought it about ten years ago from Menards. in North Dakota on a Black Friday sale, now after doing several passes on this section I can still see a good amount of dirty water coming out so I'm going to apply a little more solution and repeat the whole process making sure extract. from both directions and although with the black carpets you probably would never have seen the dirt left behind.

I could never have left it like this knowing the job was incomplete no matter where it was on the vehicle. I always do the best I can. To get it perfect now in the passenger footwell, I thought I would get closer to the dirtiest section and even though this is an area of ​​the vehicle that people would rarely look at, I'm making sure I get to the

edge

. of the carpet and that's because my whole philosophy when I'm

detailing

is that if I can see it, my clients can too, so anything I can see on the vehicle has to be perfectly clean before I call it a day. detail.

Now, another very common question I get is why don't I steam clean the pallets before removing the carpet from underneath? The reason is that when I spray the solution and use the hole punch brush on the carpets, it tends to spray solution everywhere. place so if they were already clean I would only have to repeat the work. You can see that a little bit of solution ended up on the accelerator pedal here, although in some vehicles it is much worse and in some vehicles they do not get wet, however, that is. It's not really something I can predict, so doing it in this order is the smartest way to do it and saves me from having to repeat the work.

Here is the bucket full of dirty water that Bissell took out of these mats and after sitting for a while, there is a nice layer of mud on the bottom now as I already knew I was going to need to pressure wash the driver's floor. Matt and I had plenty of time for them to dry. I thought I would make them all, so I will drizzle in a fair amount. a little bit of carpet solution, let it sit for two or three minutes so it can soak in and loosen the dirt and stains, then I'll hit it with the drill brush and then clean it with my pressure washer so they're nice and clean going on to all the super dirty interior trim and the Maguire's D 101 All Purpose Cleaner that I use is a product that I would highly recommend to anyone who enjoys detailing their own vehicle because it works very, very well but also because it comes in a concentrate. so it will last a long time if you are curious.

I have the link in the description along with almost all the other products and tools I use. It has a very reasonable price. I asked, I mean, I can probably get 50-70 vehicles. out of a jug, so now it's an incredible value for rear cup holders. This area was super sticky and dirty, so with some APC diluted four to one I'll spray it with a little steam to help loosen it and then hit it with the detail. Brush and then simply wipe it off with a microfiber towel, moving on to the leather where there is all sorts of dirt and grime.

Using a quality cleaner like D 181 on my McGuire will allow me to thoroughly clean these seats, but most importantly it is formulated specifically for leather so it is safe to use and also has more cleaning power than APC. This isn't a step I always record, but I thought I'd include it and go over the process again, so I'm rubbing in a little quick detail as lube. some detailing clay on all painted surfaces of the vehicle to remove any contaminants stuck to the surface such as tree sap, road grime or iron deposits and as you can see it all gets trapped in the clay , so I will need the part for a Clean section and go around the entire vehicle.

Generally speaking, you will be able to get quite a few vehicles out of a bar of clay, but of course that depends on how dirty the paint is on those vehicles and then once the clay is too dirty. To find a clean section then it's time to throw it away and get a new one with the paint clean it's time to seal it so I'm going to use a synthetic paint sealant on a foam finishing pad and the speed of my polisher is set to approximately two or three. a nice even coat that will add a lot of shine to this paint and keep it protected for the rest of the winter.

Here you move on to the glass and one thing that's very easy to miss is the top

edge

of the glass on the doors, but it's warranted. your client will see it when they drink their coffee the next morning so always make sure you turn them down a bit to clean it and I've seen several people ask how to clean the inside of the windshield and I don't really do anything. different, the secret here is to use a waffle weave towel as it won't leave streaks, enjoy it guys, and nine hours later I have this Ford Edge looking super nice again.

If you enjoyed the video, be sure to hit the thumbs up button and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already enjoyed the guitar outro and I'll see you next time.