DESTROYED 2017 Infiniti Q50 Hybrid VQ35HR Engine Teardown. YIKES

Let me paint a picture that may be quite relatable to some of you: It's a nice warm weekend afternoon, you're driving down the highway with the windows down minding your own business when, out of nowhere, a supersonic trumpet passes you by. on the right at 130 M per hour. and it almost takes off your front bumper and your first thought is: do those VQ

engine

s ever blow up when people drive like that? I'm here to tell you yes, because today we have a very exploited vq35 HR from a

2017

7 Infiniti Q50. and before you start correcting me on what

engine

s come in what this is about a

hybrid

, the

hybrid

has a

vq35hr

.

Now I'm not quite sure how much power this exact engine makes because it's mated with an electric-assist hybrid motor and for a combined output of 360 horsepower, which is only 40 horsepower less than the sporty red Q50, so which I think they'll probably do pretty well, they'll definitely do 130, so this one probably did it too many times, it's pretty bad, it's a course you're not supposed to NOP, that shouldn't happen now. I was very excited to get my hands on this core, but that excitement faded very quickly when I started looking at it once it returned to the shop because, like many of the cores I get from late model engines.

Has anyone been here before and the reason is that in many cases when these engines blow up they seize up and to get access to all the torque converter bolts when you replace the engine you have to spin the engine many times. You have to pull the bottom tray, the top tray and partially dismantle the motor and unfortunately after looking at this a little closer there are some parts missing and probably some good stuff but I assure you there will still be malice in the friend combustion as is. exploited hard in every way possible, so I hope it continues to be a lot of fun for all of you.

Let's start by looking at the inspection ports that have been installed, which is a rod hanging from the block with a hole in the pan, and then if they face away. Back there you'll see an exit on the other side, so you have one entrance and one exit. The other side is much better, it only has one hole in the oil pan and, speaking of oil pan, there are more holes at the bottom, obviously, the first thing we should test is to see how it rotates. I know it spins because again there is no torque converter and the crank bolt is loose and I imagine this has rained because of where it was stored, uhoh, that.

Where is my prize? I heard it, okay, so it's not good, maybe we just need to back off, that sounds bad, let's move on, oh okay, okay, now let's find the plugs, first we need to remove the coils, well, it still has plugs. I'm sure this will be fine for my Sharin as long as they are wet, the spark plugs are not broken. I don't see any damage to the electrode tips or straps. They look good. This engine got rained on at least once, so let's find some water. It is unlikely to be the cause of this failure, but it is possible.

I suspect the next thing I'm going to do is start removing the high pressure fuel pump before doing that. I need to drop this line. This used to be a part. We sold it in the past, but I have no idea if they still have any value. Sparkles, next I'm going to remove the lower intake manifold, that's not right, someone put something wrong in there, it's a lot of 13mm, that's not right, someone did it. I've been here before, Jabron puts a 13 on a Nissan, a safety knot, oh everything's going to be okay, we're going to do this the hard way, this is unnecessary, it wasn't supposed to be there and now it's done .

We'll just remove the muffler, oh now we can look at the intake ports, oh that one's wet, they're actually not too dirty, I mean they're not super clean, but for a DI engine it's not okay for one to have a little bit of water. but I don't see any bits of metal while we're here, we're going to remove this fuel line next, we'll work on the left valve cover and I don't know if I need to take these sensors off, so I'm going to try not to do that, okay, i have created a problem, come back, come back, come back, okay, first, reveal in the crankcase oo, it's clean, okay, this definitely stayed out for at least a little, there is a little rust on the surface, but it cleans up with quite easily.

Everything looks very clean here. I don't see piles of rubble. I don't see a ton of flash, although there may be some in that little dirt next to the right valve cover. It looks pretty much the same, you can see there's a little bit of Sil, a very pasty substance under that cube, it's not a ton, but something is definitely wrong. Next, I'm going to remove these variable valve timing covers and solenoids, all in one piece. I think I could leave them on the timing cover when I remove it, but I'd like to look now just because I want to take it apart.

What's behind door number one? Can we see something wrong? Well, the chain is very loose, but other than that I don't see anything else wrong, let's remove the other side. I don't need that board. Alright. What's happening here on the chain seems to be fine. There's our tensioner. I don't see anything wrong here out of pure curiosity. I would like to know. Take the solenoids out of these to see if they collected any metal, one looks pretty clean, the other is pretty broken and there are a bunch of metal g's on the top, that's a technical term.

I don't see any metal here, there's just a cluster right there below due to the design of the VQ and VR engines. I have to pull the bottom blast hub before we can get the top blast hub before we can get the timing cover off, so let's see what's inside this. Oh, there aren't many. bolts holding it on oh boy we got some good stuff so I'm going to go out on a limb and say this might be the most blown engine of 2024 so far just because of this little sample plate here on the bottom blowout bucket or oil. because we have a completely

destroyed

rod cover there is another part of a

destroyed

rod cover that is a piston that is a piston there is a rod bearing that belongs to someone who is here there is a rod cover bolt look at the large volume of pieces and random components and keep in mind has anyone been here there's a bell there's a bell there's a bell pick up the phone there's a bolt it's not a huge volume of stuff but the wide range oh wait there's more there's more there's bolts there's a wide variety of engine components here is absolutely wild, let's twist this up a bit.

I'm afraid to take out a bunch of junk and bring it up to the uh oh hey there's a piece of engine oh it's bad up here it was an unnecessary step so yeah we're missing some components. and I think I can remove the timing cover without pulling on the top tray, let's close this and now it's time to remove a 10mm bolt gauge stone. I think I got all the tens out and then I have two 12's on the bottom Okie doie, we should be able to get this out pretty easily. I hope to let AC look like there's still a bolt at the bottom, yeah, he's still fighting me here, let's take a look at what Bolt is already missing, it's just a perfect fit, I bet so.

I'm supposed to remove this bottom tray first, but we're not going to play those games that we might have to do that. Yes, let's break something. Let's get this bottom tray out of the way. Well, I don't know if I will. prepared to find out what's behind this, but we'll find out it was nice, thanks socket, having a great time, there's still something around here and I don't know what, oh, that was, oh, yeah, oh, okay, that's it a very long bolt oh oh okay oh oh that's awesome so here's a little preview of what we're going on here uh obviously someone's been here it's got no main caps and in the tray we have engine parts that aren't supposed to.

Sean in the oil pan, look, I'm going to cut this hose, okay, everything will be fine, no one, no one will know, now we can finally remove this timing cover so the timing system looks pretty good, there is some mud here, but I don't really see anything too crazy. The oil pressure fed chain tensioner seems fine, not over extended, so the chain hanging was the oil pump chain. There is no oil pump with this engine, it did have one, I promise. It's just not here to take it apart because someone had to take this motor pretty far down to get it to spin at this point with the chain still on.

I'm going to loosen the bolts that hold the cam gears to the cams because it's going to be a lot more difficult later on at this point let's take the rails off and the tensioner looks decent so this top rail I don't know if you can see it but there are a lot of them. bearing deposits on top of that plastic, this thing was a running mill for quite a while The chain even used it here, but the good news is that all of that will be cleaned up and you can completely reuse this thing, okay, so it's fine and the end rail looks great, looking for a date code on it.

It looks like Pierce is original and in very good condition, let's see if we can remove this chain. I don't know if we can or not. I have to take one of these. I don't know if we can remove it. This chain comes out there. It's a beautiful chain, look how elegant, now I need to take them off. I'm not really sure how hard it will be, but we'll do it. We'll get by with a little help. From My Blue Friend, I'm sure there's a better way to do this, that's not the one we're going to do, oh I see there's a turnbuckle there, oh boy, that's a lot of metal, oh wow, that not good, look at the volume of The bearing material on the intake cam gear is on both sides which is pretty atrocious and of course tons of metal on the inside of the cam gears which is exactly the reason why I'm not going to sell them, because if it's there, it's on the inside of these. cam gears as there are oil passages inside, so these go directly to the container.

Now is the time of night when we take out my beloved water pump. Oh, hey, look, there's a bearing plate here that's not supposed to be there. This thing looks great, there are no play bearings. Feels nice and tight no corrosion no signs of leaks this is a fantastic water pump. Next we have a group of 10mm bolts so we can remove the front rear timing cover rear front timing cover rear I'm full I have to unload there's a piece of metal right there it's not supposed to be there now I need to check if the I have all of them I think so, did you count how many I took out?

Why not, let's see, did I miss any? I'm moving on I think I need old blue on the bottom here oh no this fell off and the front rear timing cover is off. I'm sure it's an easy job on the car. It looks like it's EAS so it's kind of a valve cover but it actually has integral cam covers so now it's time to remove these cam covers and then we can remove the cams so we can take out the heads that actually don't. it's the caps so we have to go here next alright LS LS oh Jesus Well no wonder there's a lot of magazine damage here and there are bearing fragments, they don't have a score like I expected but it's pretty clear that some material came through here, sorry I got lost there to take a second look, that's not good and I noticed if you go here there's a piece of aluminum that's not supposed to be there, a little wear on the cam journals the lobes look good but look at that powder bearing there, all the journals are like that and the cam caps.

I definitely show some of them and the other camera here as well. Approach. I don't think I want to sell these tubes, but one is that they are too rough before removing the head bolts. Looks like I need to remove this rear crossover. that someone has been here before to repair a refrigerant leak. I think it's a pretty common place for leaks and instead of gaskets they use just RTV. There is no meeting here. That is not right. I know there are gaskets that make for this and they're just you know, a couple dollars a piece tops and orange RTV orange, come on, I'm disappointed, now it's time to loosen the head bolts.

These are 10mm hex head bolts, my least favorite fastener. I hope this head rises from what we have. there's water here, bad stuff, a lot of bad stuff, well we have a nice head gasket, we have some aquariums here and also someone hit this with a magic wheel, professional machinist, don't do that so as not to cover surfaces or block surfaces, so now we have to do our scientific test Ah, that's what came out I'm not kidding uh this I'm afraid of reaching number two this I'm going to hold on to this thing that's not connected to anything I think one is okay maybe um Wow Let's uh I'm going to soak the water out of this and we'll see better, so the Boors have definitely been stained from rust and water on this one.

I don't know if it can be easily noticed. I think it's a bit. turning one of these is not right and I think it's this last cylinder, there are definitely some vertical scratches in the bore, vertical wear, has anyone been on this engine before. I don't see much damage to the pistons, actually, if you look closely,there's an outline of a combustion chamber on that one, let's look at the cylinder head, so what's interesting is the finish on the cylinder head is nice, so maybe this went to a machine shop, but you can definitely tell that the piston He kissed the head.

I don't see any damage to the valves, that doesn't mean they are good and this is what fell out of the engine when I tried the first cylinder, it's a little noodle, let's take the other side of the journals out of this head, very similar, there are some bearing material there are smaller journalsIt doesn't look so bad. I don't see any major chunks of aluminum on this side, but the bearings shouldn't be there and the bearing material in the cams scratches the camshafts. The covers have fairly moderate wear. I wouldn't say they are destroyed. they certainly aren't great, they look better, actually I take, I eat those words, that's not good, this camera is pretty fucked up too, yeah, they're going in the trash and the last head, these are some of the heads louder. bolts this one should also come up immediately oh this one looks much worse H I don't even want to do my test but let's see it first perfect head gasket well we have problems because the piston is broken that piston is broken this one is still firm I mean clearly was one of those Idol fails that happened at the Drive-Thru after church.

Grandma's Infinity Q50 hybrid I was driving just died or so we were told against my better judgment I'm going to take the test I know what's going to happen I have to do it I have to be consistent I'm just going to give it a little good I think that the rings hold it together we knew it was going to happen, but here is the real proof that one is fine, well, the head is not good, there is a lot of damage to the combustion chamber, the exhaust valve is very bent, one It was hit by metal fragments from the piston, a deep gouge between the two intake valves and then Perfect, but this is all wrong, I wouldn't sell it.

I think you could repair it. I just don't, I don't think it's worth it now. Let's turn this around for the first time. Let's do the big thing. reveal here I'm curious to see what this looks like here well it's not good it's really not good wow um that would keep it from turning oh or oh it's bad yeah yeah we're going to have a lot of memories from this one. I don't even know where to start with this mess, this is a bona fide mess here, the rod is bent but still present which is better than some of the other cylinders, so this is the one that coughed up the rod when I made He tests where the wrist pin is probably on another engine.

This rod was forcefully removed from the crankshaft and then forced through the bottom of the block into the oil pan flange and I believe this is where it started. Look at the discoloration it had. It must have turned. a bearing or ate a bearing and then they continued that piston, you're not supposed to see the piston skirt, there are some small scratches on the inside of the block, right there, it's not yeah, it's bad the fact that the main looks turned In this situation it doesn't really faze me because the main caps are missing, someone was here and unscrewed them all to make the crank spin and I think by doing it without a main cap the bearings will turn as you see them but for the most part, This is the only sanctity of this engine here, the last two cylinders.

I bet we still found some damage here but nothing like the mangled mess that is the front of this engine, these are bad, I mean realistically we have six bolts to get the crank off at this point, first thing I go What to do here is remove this little chain and then this gear will slide oh, look at the crank, the crank moves next, I'm going to turn this try. turn this crank counterclockwise to access this other bolt here, but we also have this to deal with, so you may have to go the other direction, as long as you still have access to these two, it should be fine. nothing to get out of oh yeah we're good yeah I can get to these two and I can get to this one I think we're going to be fine I think I'm just going to loosen all the rod caps and then we'll lift the crank that bolt feels unhappy let's see if we can remove this cover there is one, oh, these two should not be a problem now we have to free this cover from the remaining seal here, I think this will end up coming Out with the block or with the crank, although this is a little on the way here, I wonder if I can do bad things, what could you do?

Okay, everything will be fine, let's see if we can lift this crank. out of here I think we can I don't see why it's not much worse with the starter wow well that's it wow I'm really impressed this looks good this is a bloodbath here I mean we've seen some blown up engines on this channel but ha It's been a hot minute since we saw this level of AG car. I'm not even mad that the main caps aren't here now. I was quite disturbed when I first saw it, but now I'm glad. I took this thing down and these are the only two that apparently survived.

Let's see if we can get it out. I have no idea if this one is coming out. Oh yeah, okay. Actually, I'll see if I can get it out. That's not good. okay I don't know if this one is going to come out I mean I guess oh the wrist pin is okay oh yeah well it stays together sure I'm sure they'll be fine perfect not perfect we still have a piston or debris. Anyway, to get out I just have to get out, I don't want to break it, yeah, okay, look at the holes on that one, we're going to do this, so out of order, here are the remaining main bearings and they're destroyed. and this is what's here obviously there's something we're missing and then chaos this is my best guess of what it looked like this is like trying to dig up a skeleton from 500 years ago I have no idea if this piece came from this piston or this one piston or maybe this piston I don't know, I'm sure this bushing came from the small end of this rod, this rod is the one that fell out when I was doing the piston test, this piston is held together only by a compression ring It's falling off Rings quickly, it's bad and then I found a random connecting rod bearing in there.

I'm going to assume it's that one because it's the only one that appears to have been unscrewed, it's just a guess that these rod bearings don't Well, you can see there's a lot of heat, a lot of impact. Marks here, the metal has been deformed. The piston has a lot of wear on the skirt. Surprisingly, there aren't too many bad marks on the piston itself, but the neighbor next door or across the street does anyway. I think these came from this one. I don't know, maybe not, maybe that came from the other one. I do not know how to say it.

This one is just broken everywhere. This one hit the head very hard. Look how that rod is bent. I mean. this is like a red line failure, this rod is the one that went through the block and look how discolored that rod was, it's amazing so many dents and so much damage, pretty heavy skirt wear, plus this thing wasn't running right, Hey, look. a piston ring came out of something, I think it came out of this one and then the rod caps. I guess here too. I don't know, it's bad, it's good, it's really bad. The two rear cylinders are the ones that survived the most wear on the skirts, quite heavy, but. that is the extent of the damage, the AR between the good cylinders and the annihilated ones is really impressive, they are no longer there and the crankshaft formerly known as a hammer mill, a lot of damage, look what it did to it, it cannot be driven through Rod knck.

I mean, I can tell you that when this thing went off it wasn't hitting because it wasn't working. I think this was the C that came loose that led to this whole mess, but judging by the rest of the bearings, they were no slouch. I never actually showed you the inside of the bottom tray, one outlet, two outlets. I think it's the one where the wrist pin got a new life. I'm sure it's still spinning in some other vq35. The bors are simply gone, they are destroyed. Obviously, we knew the block was garbage, but this is shrapnel, these are very deep and dense indentations.

The only ones we can really see any kind of condition on are the rear ones and you can definitely tell there is a lot of wear on the cylinders. This one had water. The hole on this one is really chewed up on the bottom and I think there is a crack on the bottom of this one. Yes, this one goes in the trash. Here's a better look at the bottom of the block. This took some hits. The oil jets were eliminated. oh hey there's still another main bearing in there this is what they look like not good the noise this one made.

I bet those cars have pretty good radios, although they have to hear it over this thing hammering, so this is a pretty small oil filter. It's really hard to open this cut, but each fold has a few pieces or more of metal. The filter did a pretty good job, but these filters are really small. Nissan has inherently small oil filters and this filter is a 3 and 1/2. L V6 and I think it's the same size even on the V8s and you can also see that the oil has a lot of bearing material in it, it's that bearing infused 5W30, terrible marketing, there's one thing left to do to take it apart and it's Remove the valves from the cylinder head to do that.

I'm going to grab an extension cord, a worn socket, and a small mallet. I'm going to hammer the top of the valve which will release the latches so I can slide the valve out of the cylinder head through the combustion side of the cylinder head it's quite dangerous I would recommend you wear safety glasses be careful you don't want to Hitting your hand hurts oh oh oh man it hurt a lot oh that was too much I should have stopped on the first cylinder which is the only one with bent valves I got a I got ahead of myself it's starting to swell oh man I might have to go to the hospital It's getting bad now we have to take the valves out here are our intakes and our exhaust that one is bent that's good enough to know so they're not bent like a broken chain or a broken belt but you can definitely tell that This one is folded.

I think another one is bent too. Up to this point it is the cylinder that had the most damage, it is the one that only had the piston crown hanging and this is the next door neighbor. I think they're correct, but absolutely some damage to the valves, we've certainly seen a fair amount of oil. related failures on this channel, in fact, I would go out on a limb to say that most of the engines I took down at my booth that exploded did so because of something to do with oil, whether it was the engine running out of fuel. oil or not enough oil which kills them every time or maybe you are extending your oil change intervals or not changing the oil at all 12 to 15,000 miles is a long time between oil changes and I know some manufacturers ask for it but the oil en Cheap engines are expensive or perhaps the wrong oil is being used.

Some engines don't care what you put in them, but a lot of them care if you want to keep it running and I don't like to sound preachy and I think I say that. in each video all you have to do is check your oil regularly change your oil regularly with the right things you do those three things you have a good idea of ​​the life of your engine and in this case this engine blew up difficult, this thing was probably giving this driver all the warning signs. Both Audis, you can probably hear that thing from a mile away, it was probably smoking, it probably smelled bad, and it obviously didn't make the power it was supposed to, so I don't know.

Whether this was at 50m per hour, 10m per hour or 130, that was just a joke in the introduction. I don't think all Q50 drivers drive that way. My point is, although at the beginning of the video I mentioned that this motor was bolted to a Q50 hybrid, meaning it has an electric assist motor that can also power the engine; sometimes it's used as a starter motor in most cases and I don't know if you know what's going on inside that motor so maybe that motor was falling apart and then the electric motor was saying "I'm here to help you buddy" and it kept spinning until it literally stopped spinning.

I wish i was there. I think it would be cool to see it either way. I think we'll see this more often in the future. Hybrids are becoming more and more popular and in many cases it's a power assist hybrid and they don't always know what's going on under the hood, they don't care. Sometimes I really hope you enjoyed this kind of disassembly. There aren't a ton of parts for this engine to sell, but there are some, so if you want to buy any parts for that engine or anything else that's broken. down or out of this 2009 45th Anniversary Vista Roof Mustang GT, you can go to import apart.com and browse our inventory.

I have been uploading our auto parts almost every week and if you don't see what you are looking for you can email us at sales art.com. I really hope you enjoyed this video as always. I love all the comments, all the feedback and even the criticism. I love it all and I'll see you in the next one.