Complete shed build , save thousands $$

let me show you how I built this 10 by 14

shed

after laying it out so you can see it. I pulled a rope to make it parallel to my other

build

ings. I'm using Post and Beam as the base for this

build

ing, so the first thing I had to do was dig some holes and put some pulse into the ground. The way I have been doing it for years is to pour the concrete dry and pack it with a pointed stick and the bottom of the hole and then use the flat end of a stick to pack the top of the hole, the concrete will draw moisture out of the hole. soil and it will harden.

I've never had any problems with that, okay, I measured from corner to corner, from and to the end and from side to side, everything is within a quarter of an inch, that's going to work for me, okay, then I wrap it with a rope, I measure halfway from one end to the other so I can place a center post and the same thing there, oh yeah, that's the boss checking everything. oh yeah, this creek we're on occasionally floats, so I put this bottom band where I felt safe. I used three and a half inch deck screws to put this together and came back later with some four and a half inch leg bolts. all safe I started cutting the end of the boards for the band and the top of the foreign ERS posts I'm going to put my floor joists on 16 inch centers, okay, I've got the floor all put together, it's nice and solid .

I have confidence in it. I guess this would be a good time to isolate if you were going to do it, but you'd be in a workshop. I'm not insulating the floor, okay, starting to put plywood or OSB on the floor. I'm using one and 5 8. inch deck screws to hold it on and I'm trying to stagger the joints so I don't have, you know, a big line running through the floors, well, well, next I'll start with the walls, the weather It's so crazy. Here I suppose it will be better to cover it since I did not buy the waterproof floor or subfloor.

I think what I'm going to do is leave this tarp on top, maybe tighten it down and put some screws in to hold it down and I just mark right on top because it's going to be a while before this dries for the lining of this thing. I'm going to use four-by-eight sheets of plywood and then put in a 1-by-3, probably very similar to this one that will mimic board and batten, since I know I'm making four-by-eight sheets of plywood in the outside, I want to make sure that they line up in the center of that foreign board and again because I know I'm going to use four by eight. sheets I'm going to start my tape measure right here and I'm going to get 16 and on the next red mark 32 and then 48 and I do that so the four by eight sheets fit right without having to cut them okay my door goes right here from here to here , so I'm going to use a 36 inch door, so I'm going to measure 37 and a half or 38 somewhere in there for the opening, the approximate opening and then I'm going to use what's left from here to here of my top and bottom plate for this little piece of wall, then I'm going to take a 14 foot hole and go all the way around the top so that double part of the band holds everything together really well, these walls aren't eight feet tall from the bottom. from the floor band to the top of the wall plate is eight feet.

I did this because I wanted my four-by-eight plywood sheets that I'm using for siding to cover that band under the walls instead of covering the trimmed floor band, so this wall was leaning a little bit like this. way, so I use this bracket here and I use it to push it in so it's straight like I want, then I just put a screw here, put a screw here, now everything is good. and uh, chubby, some might say why didn't you build the whole wall and put it up properly? It's 14 feet long, a little heavy and there's no point in hurting me and I thought I could do it this way and it worked. it looks good, just built in pieces and put it up the way I'm going to do this other 14 foot wall, putting this bottom board on the one I made and then I'll put the top board on and that'll tie it all together and then I'll just add the studs one to the Once, I attached the posts at the top, which left them hanging here at the bottom and what I'm doing here is making sure they're on my mark by putting a block between them. and screwing it in and then securing it with these four inch screws going through all of that was a lot easier than me trying to get that wall up.

I don't think I could have done it. Hey, I think I made it look good. I took these. I removed the bottom braces I used to raise the walls and put a longer one here. I want the top to be correct. I want the top of the sheet to go to the top of the wall plate and this corner doesn't matter. a lot, but I want to make this nice and clear here, so that's where we are a little bit. I was glad to have a little help with the sheets of plywood that need to be lifted.

I used the nail gun to get the plywood sheets in place, then secured them with two inch deck screws, these four and a half inch leg bolts went through the plywood, through the band, the floor band and right into to the posts. Oh, we're looking, sometimes I just take the measurements and start putting in the screws. before I even lifted the board I lifted all the plywood now it's time to start on the beams okay I made a little jig that will hold the center beam I put one on the other side so here we go this beam center measures 16 feet two. for six pieces of pie to get the right slope for my eight-foot beams to work.

I pulled this out with a tape measure and wood in a parking lot now that the center beam is centered it's time to make beams once I have one made. I used it to trace the rest of them, there you go, I cut them out, put them in, there are the first two, well it's starting to look like a roof. Hey, awesome, that part is done. The first thing I'm going to do this morning is put these straps on. Make sure big winds don't blow it off. I think while I wait for the wind I'll go ahead and frame these gables so you can put the siding over them.

I'll put a board right there. and one right there and it's going to turn around and then I'm going to extend these studs up so I have something to nail to, there's time to cover them with plywood. I get my plywood at The Gables. Very little progress. Today it is very cold and windy. I prepared this. I have these boards here to hold the plywood that will go on top of the joists. Thank you. I fastened this 7 16 OSB with one out of 5 8 inch deck screws which fit well. Well, that OSP piece was the top sheet of a new stack, so it came painted, I probably shouldn't have taken that one.

The floors are holding up now. I don't really need the tarp, but it won't hurt. I'll leave it pretty impressive for now, a layer of felt paper before putting on my metal roof. It sure is nice to have a bit of scaffolding to work with with some foreign videos a few years ago where I got a deal on metal. This

shed

was part of some kind of garage or something that the guy didn't pay for and they returned it. It was all new, so I got a very good deal. It is 10 feet long. I only need eight, but it's high.

Just enough to see, you might want to leave that overhang, it's important that the first piece of metal is perfect, as perfect as possible, then the whole roof will be smooth, but so far so good it looks good with the metal. I put that last bit, it was 15 inches. I just cut one in half, made it, you know, like 17 inches and I use it for both sides, so for my ridge I have this leftover piece of the porch that I had cut out. I'm just going to split it in half, put it up there for a ridge and then finish the metal on the roof.

This hundred year old wavy glass window is perfect for this shed, so what I did I determined where I wanted, I started cutting the studs leaving a hole for the window frame around it, then I cut the plywood with a Sawzall and then I put the window in and trimmed it on the outside. My intentions are to put hinges. inside at the top to open. I'm using a treated figure eight for the front board and I'm just ripping plywood. I think it's half an inch for the bottom side, so attach the fish board and panels now.

I make these ribbons and like I said, I bought them one by three, they're a little bit smaller net, I cut the top at 45. and I'm just going to hold them like this and space them out and it's going to look amazing, this is where I'm at, I have these cut off, they go boom, number two, number three, I'm just facing all feet away, number four, the boss is watching you, make sure you're working with nothing, okay, number five putting. these doors is complicated for me because they never showed me the right way to do it, so what I do is I just go, take my level, go back and forth, back and forth, sideways, forward, and I try to make everything plumb and level.

I cut some little shims out of scrap two by fours and screwed them together every time I put a screw in I check the door, if it didn't help I undo it, take it off, I want that crack right there. To be even, I want the door to open and close and I want the lock holes to line up with the casing, so even though this stud is connected this way, this casing still needed to be on top to that works well, someone might say or Ask why he made the ceiling like that instead of making it in a straight line.

Remember I reduced the height of the walls and didn't want the soffit to get in the way of the door which wouldn't look good, so this worked well. The reason I shrank the height of the wall was because I wanted to cover the band with plywood. Hey, hey, hey, this is starting to look good. I trimmed the window a little. I'm really happy to start looking like a cool little building, okay first? What I'm going to do before I put down the felt paper or canvas paper is I'm going to trap this crack with the clear and that will be extra insurance so that no water gets in, so first I'm going to apply a layer of felt paper or tar paper .

Before I start my Cedar Shakes, I simply choose which ones feel right to me and then, of course, I move on. I choose six and a half inches to go up to the next layer and then I always stagger the seams, you know? the top one covers the bottom one and there's not much to do again. I used my nailer with one and a quarter inch nails for the fascia board. I used two inch nails. These fascia boards were 14 feet of white wood, eight-inch lap siding. I built this 10 by 14 shed for less than two thousand dollars in materials.

Now I'm always looking for discounted materials and if you keep an eye out you can also find deals on materials. Rent to own sheds around here cost three times as much. both and they are built on two-foot centers instead of 16-inch centers and they are not as tall or as sturdy, so with a little time and a little effort you can build your own shed and save a few dollars. hey thanks for watching