Como Instalar Piso Laminado Para Principiantes

You will need subflooring and if you don't remove the baseboard, you will also want to purchase a fourth baseboard. and to get the right amount, you need to measure the baseboard across the room, and that will tell you how much you need. And finally you will need some transition pieces to go from one floor to another. Let's assume you have all the materials you need. Now you must clean the floor in this room, there was previously a carpet here, and there were some remaining nails from the strip, a pry bar is perfect for removing them. By removing the debris I can start clean Let's shift our focus to the base and you may have seen different versions available at different prices.

The underlayment is generally intended to be a moisture barrier and keeps your laminate floor dry. There are standard and premium versions, some provide better sound blocking, and the more expensive brands say they are mold resistant, as I'm working. with concrete slabs here. I want to make sure I cover the entire slab with these, depending on the brand you get you will need to pick up a roll of tape to cover the scene. This is the standard version and comes with its own ribbon. You just have to peel and stick. It has tape on one side only, so when you put it on the other side work from there and continue gluing it's time to move on to the floor.

Choosing the direction of the floor can confuse many people. It all depends on your taste. If you are taking it throughout the house then it makes more sense to take it directly to the room but if you do different laminates in each room it can go with the length of the room or in the opposite direction for this installation. I'm going to lay the floor following the longest distance. With the baseboard in place, it would have been easier to start from the door and work your way to the opposite side. Now let's go to the miter saw,, I'm going to cut some pieces that will be for spacing,, and these will be for expansion And that means that over time the floor will change state due to temperature changes,, and what you don't want is that the floor bends because it has no room to expand.

So I'm going to place the spacers at the starting point. so I never lose my gap When it comes to the first row, I like to spend some time on it, and make sure it's ready to go It's also a good idea to cut the tongue on the first row of boards, the first one needs three boards, two complete and a cut. and I need to modify the border that surrounds the cabinet. Although it is possible to cut it without an oscillating tool, if possible use one. It is much easier. After cutting the bottom of the molding, you see that the laminate board can slide right underneath.

Now I need to cut the profile of the board so it can slide under the molding, but before I committed I had to use tape so I could mark the cut, because it's very difficult to see if I marked on the piece of laminate itself. The tape also cut a chip from the laminated edge. with that resolved. I will make sure I have adequate space on the laminate floor. let me explain how I do the first three rows and then everything is repetitive from here on out, for the first row I use a full plank, for the second I use half, and for the third row, I want half of the second plank, and if you want to take that consistent appearance until the end, you could use more boards, and keep a consistent design, if that doesn't matter so much to you, you can use the last cut board to start the next row.

The way they come together is simple. You must take your tongue, place it in the groove at an angle and then lower it. and this becomes quite repetitive until you reach the other wall. as a suggestion, every time you cut the last plank in that particular row, what you want to do is turn it over, mark it that way and then make your cut,, now, I like to use a cutting section of the planks as a way to tighten the joints. I tap it a little to make sure it fits properly I keep it tight as I go the whole distance But when you get to the last row, use a pull up bar to tighten it.

As I said before, it would have been easier to start on this side of the room. And the reason is that the molding didn't come off, which would have made it easier. So now I have to work almost backwards and try to get it to fit under the door frame. It was a little challenging but keep in mind. I have a little wiggle room here with the fourth nozzle molding, so I can hide any space issues. I'm going to focus my attention on that now, normally, I would install the transition and leave the fourth muzzle until last.

In the process I noticed two things, two inches into the room. I saw that there were different levels, one high and the other low. My only concern was that I didn't think the transition piece we had could have worked. So I left it until the end and changed my focus to the corner. I like to cut all the pieces and place them before I start. I cut all the quarter rounds at a 45 degree miter, which gave the cleanest look, so you can begin. practically anywhere and simply move around the room. You can use a nail gun, or you can nail and hammer.

I prefer to use a nail gun. It's not as strong as an 18-gauge nail gun, but it leaves smaller holes that you can cover while you apply the caulk. You will find that you need to extend some of these, the best way is to cut them on the miter saw they are easy to cut, you can cut them on the miter saw, or you can use a miter box. If you want to give them a nice touch, I would say cut the ends and add a cover Now that I've put all my attention on the two doors, it's time to install the transitions.

When you have floors that are at the same height. you want to go with the transition of te. like this one, after a trip to the store, my neighbor informed me that they didn't have tea molds. I find it strange, but I didn't want to jeopardize the work by not having what he needed. So I wanted to see if I could make a modification here on the door. I could make it work. I drilled and installed a metal track, also shim it a bit, which made it higher than the tiles, and the laminate floor. after installing the metal track.

All I have to do now is hammer the transition piece directly into the metal track, there is enough tension under the metal piece to hold the transition piece they can be removed if necessary even though they have a good finish They are not custom products High quality, so they will fall apart if you disturb them too much. I want to change my focus to the bathroom. This situation was new for me, since I already had an existing transition here in the bathroom. What I need to do is cover one transition, with another transition. I wish I had a better way to approach this.

But for now it is what it is, the transition piece not only provides a decorative solution from one foot to the next, but also provides protection to the edge of the laminate. I installed a metal track similar to the one I made on the other end. The only difference is that I put the track on the laminate floor. I do the final touch around the edge, and also between the baseboard and the nozzle this is the opportunity to touch up all the small holes There is a larger than normal gap under this edge I don't know if the purpose is for the carpet to pass through below But I want to fix it with caulking, and even though I'm not fixing it as far as eliminating the problem I'm going to mask it using caulk to make it look more presentable, and once I'm done, all my neighbor has to do is paint the baseboards, trim or just do a touch up job.

Before I pass this on to my neighbor. I just have to clean up my mess, and that's it, job done.