Clay Bar Detailing How To Clay Your Car Properly

alright, welcome back to the forensic

detailing

channel, decontaminate

your

car, another area of ​​

detailing

that may sound very glamorous but very scary when you are new to detailing, it's not scary at all, certain forms of dirt get stuck in

your

paint and they don't come off when you wash the car with detergent and water and a wash mitt and a pig hair brush now, if you look at this piece of

clay

, if the camera arranges its focus, come on, you can see a brown color on a lot of it. this, so there's an element element. of tar and you know what the word is petrochemicals or whatever, basically, tar and bits of bitumen that have stuck to the side, there is also darkness, which is small amounts of rain, you know, brake dust that gets embedded in the paint and sap, what else?

Insect splashes are another contamination that cannot always be eliminated. You know, cement dust. What else can go on the list? Glue, adhesives, paint, over spray, which is really important and common that you can find in your car, so you literally use this

clay

and what is clay? Well, it's butyl, a flexible butyl putty. You will have seen various forms of putty like this that are made from butyl and along with the butyl abrasives are mixed in if you have an aggressive clay they will use larger clamps of a fancy abrasive with larger micron particle sizes or whatever, they are more aggressive that will scratch more and more the word the industry likes to use, to finer clays that use finer abrasives that are less aggressive and will remove less contamination, but we will scratch the car less, so there is a quick summary, now You know, what the contamination is and what cleaning it does, it just removes all these things that washing leaves behind.

Now here's the interesting thing, so think about Bill Hamburger, you know a big fan of the built burger brand. He has some of the best decontamination products on the market. Now let's start with the clay, so the clay is obviously what does all the work. The burger constructed has three clays, the white soft clay and the black one. Medium clay, I think it is the medium, the normal one, the black one is the middle one and the blue one, which is the most aggressive. I think it's normal. They cost 9.99 for 200 thousand, so they are very cheap.

They are rigid clay bars, not so malleable. the white is a little more malleable the important thing we build hamburger is that it removes more contamination, I think other clay bars. I've never done a side by side test, but you know better about the clays, but when I'm removing contamination from a car and I take another fine clay, I'm going over the paint looking to remove the little lumps and to make the paint smoother, It is a longer process that requires more passes with other clays than the built manipulator clays in my opinion, let me know what you think, it is also the price, it is about half the price of all the other clays, that is why I use this clay, That's why I recommend it.

I'm going to pause the video. It's okay, I'm back, family. I came back loaded with Burger King for the kids and everyone else didn't buy me any misfortune. I returned to the garage defeated with a San Pellegrino. Instead, now he was talking about playing and I think I got to the clay itself and he was talking. about the built burger and why I use it, price is important, but the clay I find removes more contamination than other clay bars, don't believe me, if you have a test panel at home, get a can of rattle paint, rattle red paint. apply a little spray and overspray one of the most difficult contaminations to remove test clay bars against overspray and you will notice a difference and it is the number of passes you have to make with the built-in hamburger to remove the excess of spraying compared to other clays, obviously. overspray is if a car is covered in overspray get the blue clay hammer because that makes a big difference if it is heavily contaminated you can use the black clay for all other cars use the light white clay because it is enough and it will do less damage 99 of the time, white clay is the right one.

Yes, constructed patties are stiffer than other clays, so it can be very difficult to get them to know how to work, but once you start heating them and rubbing them, they get some energy through them. They start to soften and then turn into ideal hammer clays that last a couple of years in the garage, if you buy a lot and don't use them after two or three years they can become a little cake-like and go bad. a little of their elasticity, so using them in a couple of years would be my advice now, before decontaminating with chemical clay now, after you have washed the car and removed all the dirt from the car, I think it is a good idea to go around all the panels and spray this product, which is a rain eliminator called hammer corusol built in, uh, outbreak on the car panels, just the spray on the panels and have a clean wash mitt and then apply the spray that you put on the panel.

Work with the glove so you know you've covered each panel with a rain remover. You don't have to use much as long as you've covered it. The trick you want to avoid is to spray tons in there and have it all. running down the side of the car, you know, that's a trick you want to avoid because you're going to waste a lot of product. You should also avoid spraying it on runoff areas if you can, so a little misting on each panel and spreading it around is good if you get a lot of it on runoff areas inside the door jambs, it gets stuck on boots and doesn't you rinse it, everything stinks and you can smell it in the cabin and that is a mistake you should avoid and you don't want to. your car smells like rain remover that happened to me it's a mistake I've made now the key to understanding about rain remover is that this stuff reacts and turns purple it reacts with the rust and dissolves the rust, not the iron, dissolving the rust shrinks the embedded iron and falls off and makes it easier to dislodge, but you still need contact to dislodge it, so don't fall into the trap of thinking that when this turns red and bleeds, it's dissolving the iron, so That's it, you can let it dissolve. and then it's done, it's not just shrinking the oxide layer and leaving the embedded iron much looser so it's easier to remove through contact, so it's also good after you've spread it with the wash mitt to allow let it remain. the panel for up to five minutes so it can do its job and the reaction can occur and the oxide layer can shrink and if it's a warm day like it was today, where it's early in the morning and it's not hot, it's spring in in the UK so it's probably only about 14 degrees so you can keep going around the car and making contact with the rain remover film and that contact will again help dislodge any loose rain once it's been on the car for five minutes, rinse it. outside of the car, this is your final rinse as part of your washing process, as well as when you rinse, pop the hood, pop the trunk, and rinse everything out of those runoff areas, like I said, so you don't get anything coming out. the smell appears in the engine compartment, rinse it everywhere, okay, then you bring the car and dry it, that's what I do and when the car is dry, you can use the built-in hammer cleaning fluid or tar remover and glue of your choice, whatever. but generally they should be used dry because they are not miscible with water, they are hydrocarbons, so unlike water, dry the car and then panel by panel you can spray, you can spray a little bit on the panel, if you want you can spread it on a clean primed microfiber applicator and simply spread a film of the cleaning fluid over the panel and that film sits there and will dissolve any tar that is there.

You don't want to just leave it and let it evaporate. let it sit there and then before it evaporates you want to polish it so it has the maximum amount of time to dissolve the tar film that's on the car it's an optional step um if you just try behind the front wheel and do a bit. of clay and there is a lot of brown stuff in the clay, so you have a good amount of tar in there and it will definitely be worth doing this step. You only make steps if it's worth it and I think it's worth it.

The more pollution you have on the car, the better you'll use a tire and glue remover or you know, yeah, a tar glue remover before you apply clay, this will make things a little easier now some people say you should use a tar glue remover. glue and tar before. you use a rain remover, the only problem with that is that you have to dry your car to use the tar and glue and then after you have gone around and used the tar and glue, panel by panel, if you want, wipe it off with spray. at work, wipe it off and do it again if there are small stubborn tar spots when you have gone back around, then you will have to use the corosol and this is a spray and rinse type product, isn't it an agitated spray? rinse, you have the car wet again, so it's not the most efficient way, um, and it doesn't really matter because whatever way you do it, these chemicals will help remove the contamination, but then you're going in with your bar of clay and then hitting your paperwork dragging what's left of the paint, so in my opinion it doesn't matter, do it however you want, that's how I do it because it saves me time and the net results are exactly the same now, then, after Having completed chemical decontamination, you will be ready to make your claim.

I like to use optimal no rinse water based on your clay lube recommendation or even a little weaker, don't ask me what the dilution ratios are or the reason because you can google it. I find this very funny. They get very irritable. Don't ask me questions. You can Google it because I'm trying to answer a lot of questions and there are too many questions I can't. answer, so I have to choose the questions I answer. I know it all sounds very high and mighty, but it's true. So I hate answering questions that you could Google that I can't remember.

I have to Google it for you. You're asking me a question, I'm googling it and giving you the answer, and I'm too polite to say go to Google and then rant about it, get your clay turned into a disk, you should probably put on gloves, actually , Yes, you know. the latex gloves, the nitrile gloves, not the latex ones, these black nitrile gloves, because they actually seem to help, I think they stop the clay from flying, I don't know why maybe not, I work panel by panel, I started with the hood or the hood, you get angry, people. get mad when I say spray the hood or over the target panel and just play lightly over your car always clap the edges around the edges if you ever put on rain remover after you've played because that's the kind of lunatic I am?

Can I prove where you got lost? It will always be around the edges that you missed. Another thing is the areas that usually get the most pollution, unless you park under a tree and everything will fall on your roof and your The hood is usually behind the wheels and the rear, the exhaust and the wheels, all the discs brake, they splatter the side of the car down there, you know what I mean, so you're going to feel a lot of roughness down there, sometimes you need good clay down there. you can start playing on a hood and think your car is going to be fine and then you get down to the sides and you realize that's where all the clay is, where all the pollution is.

Fold your clay, I often use a lot of this, oh and I. I missed it at work, panel by panel, do a good job on each panel and then when you're done, I'll just pick up who I am right now. I'm just collecting all the o's so I don't have big patches. of dry product when I was done and then go through the car and have it all decontaminated and there is no residue or anything on the car and it is ready to be glued and polished how much time should you spend soaping your car? I've spent about an hour and a half, which is quick, pretty quick considering this was absolutely full of pollution.

You could spend more time. I'm happy when I go and feel around the car, everything is nice and smooth, so it will be fine. Polishing takes as much time as you want if you are trying to polish your car wash and polish your car in one day then you will need to apply clay very quickly John what about clay gloves and clay cloths? Well, I have done it. comparisons I'm a clay bar guy, clay cloths can save you time, but the contamination that builds up on the clay cloth can't get it off the surface and over time, the clay cloth will do more and more damage to your car um, you know to the point where I don't know, I just prefer clay, I just think it removes contamination better with less of that wet sanding, orange peel kind of look, right, that's all about clay, aside of another final rental.

This car has had a dealer put sealant on it and I'm surprised they put sealant over all this.heavy pollution, like this car is splashed with tar and falls off, and what's the point of putting it? a thick sealant on top of all that contamination uh you know it goes against common sense but it's just laziness because in low light the car still looks relatively new and shiny you know someone just washed it and threw a sealant on it um , but just horrible, horrible. What I have to do makes my job of making this car nice harder, and why would you put a sealant on top of so much contamination?

It's just not difficult to clean a car, it's not difficult, it just takes a little effort. Carefully, you do it correctly, you clean the paint and then when you go and polish, you polish the clean paint instead of polishing tar it's just the level of ambush there is it's just unreal because you can get away with it unless you know about all of it. this car cleaning stuff you know unless you know you're just going to look at a car in low light and I think it looks good if you're buying a car sit behind the front wheels always sit down here and ask the dealer, tell him, is this coming?

I would really like it to be good if this, oh, this feels good, does it? a sealer and if they say yes and it feels all rough behind the wheels then they haven't plastered the car they just hold it up and play dumb because they aren't going to tell you the truth so yeah the hole in the wheels is the place to check, that's where you'll know and a lot of times they'll feel rough and knobby and you might even see some little black dots and all that kind of stuff obviously it's harder to see certain types of contamination certain colors what you want when you're done contaminating, decontaminating and cleaning your car that's when you're clay you can feel the little bumps and as they come off the paint starts to feel smooth when you get there you move on to the next part if in doubt just clean a little more , try to be thorough and then when you come back and dry that panel, when you finish that panel, you feel it, everything should feel smooth, that's all, you just want it to feel smooth and then you know there's no contamination so that's it for me three products you need your clay bar you need your rain remover you need your cleaning fluid your tar and glue you need an applicator for the cleaning fluid and you need some microfiber towels and you should use or as a clay loop I will link them all in the description don't tell me ask about concentrations and good luck what else I've missed something I've missed something don't skimp on the decontamination you know if you don't wash the car

properly

, then everything goes wrong after that point, if you don't decontaminate the car

properly

, everything goes wrong after that point from that point, so you need to do each step correctly, as we've talked about before on the channel, so that's it for decontaminating your car with built. guys burger products all the products i use the omr the hammer built i will link it all in the description you might be able to get 10 off with the forensic code don't quote me if it doesn't work it doesn't work.

It doesn't always work, sometimes, um, that's all. Any tips and tricks you have to claim that will be useful to other people, please put them in the comments because that helps spread all the good things. There are some great tips. There it is guys, thanks for watching, don't forget to subscribe and see you soon on the forensic details channel. Goodbye, for now, clinging to what I was.