Building Tile Shower Pan With Drain Close to Wall --- FloFX Drain and Heated Floor

Alright, so we're floating this tray with mud from the deck, we're getting it ready, but we're also putting ditra heat in here, so I already have the flow effects flange installed. I have it at the height I want, it's about an inch. the top is about an inch from the slab here and we're going to create the slope that we need. If you are using Ditra Heat, one thing to keep in mind is that you cannot just screed from the top. the union flange, as you normally do without ditra heat, you need to embed the mud a little lower so that when you put the ditra heat on, it is flush with the top of the flange, because if you were to just remove the mud from the best thing What would end up happening is that the Detroit heat would be over and there is no way to create a good waterproof seal with the sheet membrane going over the Ditra heat, so I run into this and a lot of people come across it. me through my

tile

training and many times it's too late, they are going fine, how do I make this work?

I wonder, man, you're kind of screwed, you pretty much won't be able to use Ditra Heat in your

shower

. unless you rip off the bridle and find a way to lift it up, but that's pretty hard to do, so I'm trying to save you a little bit of pain here and show you how to do it, so what I like to do is I've taken these sticks and They are just strips of Redwood lattice that we use for floating

wall

s. You know, when we chew our

wall

s we use the floating strips, but these are just strips of Redwood about a quarter of an inch thick and I've cut them. above, but what I did was make a notch.

You can see I made a notch here, so the notch is the height of the ditra heat, so you want your notch to be the same thickness as the ditra heat. So when I go to the ruler, here's my cut and I have a few different lengths and you'll see why I have a few different lengths, but when I use the ruler, the notch is going to rest right on the flow effects, so my mud is It's going to be recessed. a little bit from the top, just the thickness of that notch, so it's pretty simple to make and I've made different length sticks because I'm going to use some here where I need shorter ones and as I get them.

I'm going to need longer sticks here, so we mix the mud from the platform. I'm going to put some grout. I'm going to put a thin layer under the flow effects flange here so that the mud from the deck will stick to the bottom, one of the cool features of the Flowfix

drain

s is that they have mortar lock channels underneath, so that when you put a thin layer underneath, it actually locks it to the bottom of the joining flange, so you have less. possibility of the connection flange breaking Bond if you notice a lot with the Schluter that they are completely smooth plastic on the bottom when you make a dry pack or a mud float for deck many times you step on it or something like that and that and that breaks Bond and then it's a little loose and you definitely don't want these things to come loose, you want them encased in the mortar, so we're going to put a little bit of glue under them and then we're going to put the platform mud in, we've used that since we're on a slab, we're going to use a thin layer that we call grout, which is basically an adhesive layer for the mud from the deck to stick to the slab and I'm just going to install my rules and start, oh yeah, okay, foreigner, it's okay.

Well, how about it's okay, probably a little wetter than I normally make it, but Kirk would love this. He'd probably even have it wetter. Yeah, I think he does after doing a few. I also prefer it a little wetter. If you have it. more time with it outside since it's not as rich, it allows you to use it a little wetter without it turning into crumbling brick mortar, so yes, you do need to make sure the mud on the deck actually settles. pack under this

drain

. As much as you can, that's usually one of the first things I do after extending it.

Look, I spread my grout. I didn't spread it under my knees so as not to get thin from all my knee pads. so yeah, I already packed it up, now I'm going to start working on my perimeter here, so I drew, I drew a little line here as an indicator, it's a little hard to see, but I just made a little pencil line that gives me my quarter inch. per foot, so I'm going to do a quarter inch per foot up here for drainage and I'm actually going to increase it a little bit. Normally I do a level perimeter, but as we're using, we're using a mosaic that is long strips.

I didn't want the slope to be too drastic around the drain, especially at the back because I don't want to have to make raised cuts, so we'll see how it turns out, it's usually a little different. I level the perimeter and then just screed everything to get it right. As you're laying down the perimeter screens, you just want to make sure you don't pack, you want the mud to accumulate between a quarter of an inch and a half of an inch on the most unpacking while you're laying down these rulers so you can easily tamp the edges and form that line. ruler, there we go, she leaves that really nice ruler line that we're going to work with, thanks, look, I should have done that.

I think oh, that 32 right behind you, thank you foreigner, nice and nice, and I think perfect, well, foreigner, okay, sweet, just to your left, can I take that little one, your little one, let's let him go? Yeah, that thing is a champ, I know I brought it. Thinking you're going to use it well in the Martinez area, the houses are really small so a lot of the trays are super small, oh yeah this was useful too, that's what that type of e-

tile

also fits . I think that's all he uses, yeah, it's a cool little paddle, this one is the shortest.

I think when you cut, you cut about an inch from the top of that end, right there for me, foreigner, so you can see I've used my sticks. with a notch to get a good ruler with everything Notch is riding there. I continue to cut my strips shorter as I need them. I just cut them off, so I have a little guy now so I can get in back here. and then I'll have to use a small trowel to shape everything, but yeah, so the notch once you get the notch you can check it, so I'm going to double check that I have my ditra heat. down and make sure everything is flush here and I'm ready to go, so I'm just going to continue to shake this pan and get out of here.

Sorry, beautiful, okay, I see that my wooden

floor

attacks the foot, okay, quite strange, strange, strange, I like that good slope, yes, so the good thing about this pan is that it is gradual, it is not so drastic it all goes down in a plane like two feet and then once it goes over the drain it slopes down into the bowl so it's really nice to be able to do this with deck mud so you can shape it and make this bowl exactly like wanted to. He probably could have had a cornea. The cornea could have done it.

I did this with foam, but I was really trying to figure out that it would probably take me longer to try to get it all out for him than it would to float. I know not all of you have floating skills like this. I've been doing it for so long, it's like second nature to me, but it's really nice to be able to place your pan exactly where you're doing your calculations and really create this work of art, so I'm going to go ahead and finish it. this, put a steel on it, put a flat trowel on it and we'll do the heat ditra, then we'll do the tiles, so thanks for joining me today.

I love you, I love being your tile trainer and I will see you in the next sweet video