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Building a 1500hp Billet 20B 3-rotor | fullBOOST

Jun 03, 2021
Today we are in professional matters and we are going to film the assembly of this very bright 20 b3

rotor

for more than 20 years. Australian Performance Master Power professionals have specialized in everything powered by rotary engines, from mild street engines to completely wild racing application premieres. It carries its full driveline and EFI tuning upgrades, we met with the team as they were putting together a very high performance 3-

rotor

20 B engine capable of over 1,500 horsepower, so Simon from the primaries, I'll be working hard with you , but I have never filmed a set of three rotors, tell us a little about this incredible place.
building a 1500hp billet 20b 3 rotor fullboost
I think we've never filmed anything engine-wise before, so this is our first time, which is good. These builds, the boards are obviously made by Billa Pro, they are the best. the world amazing products these have been on the cards for quite some time it's a special purple anodizing, they were really nice yes it arrived, it's not a long process because you have to make all the individuals more done and then take down all of them to anodize them of once and then get them back do all the engraving and all the machining study and all that do all the ports on the bridge and on the CNC so yeah obviously what we're filming in some ways is kind of pretty simple in terms of what you just did, there's a lot of work not only with these but also with the rotors and the housing that goes before assembly like any engine, but now we're going to show some assembly stuff and I know you.
building a 1500hp billet 20b 3 rotor fullboost

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building a 1500hp billet 20b 3 rotor fullboost...

He told me before that he's actually going overseas, yeah, he's going to New Jersey, yeah, he's not going in a Mazda, he's going in a BMW now, BMW, he's doing a little bit of drag, something half a mile, okay, something like that like a street, yes, it's great, but more so us. We're back guys good trick oh yeah Ronnie that's it we'll get into that so Saman this looks like a Bridgeport yeah so it's a Bridgeport semi pp. Our primary ports because of the

billet

Pro plates allow us to run a The big primary boat helps with a lot of low chatter and a lot more power and what you've been

building

these master engines for probably 26 years? 20 26 or 27 yeah, people have a lot of problems with that, yeah, everyone builds different engines, you know, I still do. things today that I was doing 27 years ago, yes, just habit and yes, you just want to stick with the same system all the time, it's crank, not Spitak, yes, so this crank is an aftermarket replica of the factory crank with Billa professionals, bearing support is added. for the center plate it has a special sleeve as part of the crank here if the roller bearing works now I help to hold the tip of the crank oh yes yes 20 B suffers a lot from that we found it to be really good and reliable so We use factory tall rings, the most reliable, we always put the union to the inner port, wishing the machine was your huge vaseline vaseline, no that's late, you see, Vaseline oil base, so it's really not good for eye rings, yes, that's a big no, usually.
building a 1500hp billet 20b 3 rotor fullboost
I'll prepare the way with Vaseline, but I haven't done it today. I actually used silicone grease. I'm on that and just so you can see the side sealers, they lighten up a lot when you don't put them on. Vaseline everywhere, yeah, you just can't see anything, yeah, I always spend probably AZ two days prepping this engine before this assembly process. Luke probably spent a day prepping the boards, prepping them, putting in all the gears, and putting in all the inserts. Once everything has been machined as you can see these inserts are amazing quality so they are cast iron yes it is cast iron so now I'm going to start with the sinner rotor so we always start from the center to build the back.
building a 1500hp billet 20b 3 rotor fullboost
First we have two shorter uprights that will hold the back together while we flip it over and do the front, so when you do the flip don't ride, how much of this do you do? None of this, I don't put the rotors in, so everything except their owners, just mix up the bolts and make sure that yeah, just mainly for the crankshaft, make sure it has all my float, make sure everything is good there, so something about these semi peepee that is very different from others. The people who machine them, so Bill, a professional, has come up with this type of design where it's a ring between the two surfaces.
It's actually what can go through there and not leak and from here it looks factory, yeah, it's a beautiful setup, very nice finish. we've tested it probably at 75 80 psi it actually bites the gasket with no ring or okay that sounds perfect tree yeah gasket a lot of people know the ring there yeah yeah an o ring and a gasket and it creates everything kind of problems, so Yes, we found that this is designed to work best for our needs. This was probably all Scott Hanselman. Yes, amazing job for me. It is a lot of work. Many people run like a 25-26k port semi PP.
We're probably the only ones. run a 30 thousand 130. I know it's a little bigger than what other people start with better service. I guess you guys do a lot of testing, yes, but the 13 Bay has about 1,500 horsepower, so with this same port, what kind of rpm would you use? limit an engine like this to 20 bees don't like rpm like twin rotors, yes, but you could say one of these engines will be 1,800 2,000 horsepower, yes, yes, but yes, the limit will be the crankshaft, but that's why. We have additional bearing support to help you on your way, but yes, this will make a comfortable 1,500, yes, but everyone talks about horse pass, not just if you've never experienced a 20 B, it's like a small block versus a big block, yeah, and Straight up, like it's just an instant conversation, yeah, we just did one recently and it puts out 800 horsepower through the car and the wheels, yeah, so that's pretty cool, yeah, 950 horsepower flywheel of strength and it's not very easy at about 20 to 22 pounds or so. that this is part of my 27 years, but I am struggling to break it, never let me down.
I look terrible, but it does the job. I've seen this used in many applications. Old mechanics love it, we just have to get better. with a better brush, okay, hypixel time, so these are aftermarket unbreakable. Oh, pixels, I'm sure you can see them on the camera, but the machine's work with them is incredible. There is a high quality replacement seal that we use and recommend and a large handle. power, the good thing is that they don't break, so if you have a little mishap, these won't close all your cases, you know they will bend and take them out, put another set in and that's it, I like to put them in with the assist piece on and I fought the way I'm fighting them, but at least I know that the assist parts are actually super glued together and that's how they are from the factory, when I was in Orlando, they actually broke them and I put them in a very different place than what I'm doing now, which for me and I didn't feel comfortable doing it that way.
Yes, it's Intertel's way of having this unique nut, the Titan Z inserts it and tightens it evenly. In the middle you will see a lot of

billet

plates with screws all over them. We like these because they actually talk down the center up to 100 Newton meters and, um, yeah, they hold it evenly in the center and obviously the rotor housing when you see. Watching you take it apart and putting it in you realize you can't get it out, no that's an insert, I mark it and do it with my fingers but the quality is amazing, yes that's where the threaded nut comes in to hold it in.
You're probably wondering why. I have the Norton products behind me because once we're done I'm going to clean everything up and there's nothing better than Norton liquid ice to clean everything up, we make it look even better than the RIA plate is and we can We can tighten the rienne, turn it around and do the front end, so here we have a couple of standard side bolts as well as the billet bolt kit Pro. They are three different links and the main ones go through the entire engine. You need to put one together so there are two to hold the rear end together and then there are two to hold the front end together and then we can put it all together, so obviously the motors are completely studded which holds it all together.
Precision, the main reason we mount an engine obviously when it starts making power the engine starts rotating on itself so looking at it you're talking about sixteen bolts around the engine and its precision Lee is precision machined not they can move another motor can move, these two bolts will hold it together while we flip. finish and do that on the front of the engine, you'll say well we've got it here on the back, you'll notice sir that's a facial year with a bunch of bolts, they're obviously a billet aluminum plate that can expand and contract, we feel that the more bolts there are. the best space to hold that gear stationary, but we've never had any movement or anything like that, that looks awesome, it looks good, so now we'll assemble the front, you can see the Torrington bearing on the inside, however the axle has a torrent except standard above no, no, it's just some Babbitt, they call it Babbitt bearing factory, well bill a probe added this to help hold the center shaft.
The most important thing when assembling tapered shafts is that the taper must be dry. very dry, so no oil, it's pretty crucial, it's always good to polish the cones, we're going to apply oil where the bearings are going to run. One important thing is obviously the factory ones with keyway, high horsepower, high predation are not recommended, Mazda factory machines their pins so they are loose for the faceplate obviously we don't want we want to have a locked up engine and as tight as possible, so we run the standard pins in the front and obviously the bolts through the engine, right in the front, yeah, so just in the front they run like a floating girl, let's say that it would help fake misalignment in the front because a two piece crank and they don't care too much about the movement because they don't generate much power, a bit like in our excites nothing like that exactly twenty B and rx eights shouldn't be in the same sentence unless that you put in a twenty an hour excitedly, well, you've done it several times, yes, it's a good Simon, I noticed you've done it.
I haven't been using a hammer to break this into pieces. What's going on? Oh, everything goes great when it's all set up and it's all new, so yeah, yeah, when it's new and the billet plates make it easy, plus they're all precise. it's all together very well, these see the space in the back it was like that if you can see the assist piece there oh yes, yes, it's our

building

in the front, we placed the assist piece down, not up like we did in the real one, can you do that accidentally? The bad doesn't really matter mmm that's a NASA space it helps the pressure on the apex seal it doesn't matter if it's up or down but I like to keep it constant yeah but there's probably someone in hell who doesn't agree with me, but you.
You've probably also noticed the corner seals, some people notice that it will be different. They are actually aftermarket racing corner seals as well. We've had a lot of success with them, so we use them on all of their customers' engines, the last plate, the last plate and You can put the two short bolts in, turn it around and put all the big bolts in, that's easy, our seals are good, so the same thing we did on the back and got a couple of short stats, these are for the front, these will hold it together. As we turn it over and put in all the Long bolts, these are our rings, we run to seal them.
You probably noticed I didn't put any on that back, but I'll put them in once I turn it over, this will seal out any coolant. it wants to go through those studs, it doesn't want a new siren, so I bite into the stud and it seals around it and bites into the plate. Complete Bella Pro stud kits come with RP half-inch nuts and washers, you know that. and how beautiful it looks, isn't it? They are made from 4140 senilis ground rod, although we like to think they are all perfect, they are not, but it is the closest you will get to a straight rod, that is how I used them.
Relax or go crazy sounds a little rude, but I know, but times have changed and young people come here and present this to me, so we beat them, we don't pinch them, we just roll up there, squeezing a bunch of these new keys impact they don't show you their fingers, yeah, anyway, all we're doing is just turning the lug nuts down, it saves us a little bit of time and you'll see how much we have to warn them with the torque wrench. Can you configure them? They are set to 40 Newton meters. Some people want them to be so strong that they are twice to be too loose.
That's my setup. How it works for me. All my race engines will see that I'm nowhere near my torque setting. that gun you can hear all the leftover parts start to come apartbreak, yeah, like a winding, everything, yeah, everything starts to tighten, it's an old torque wrench, but it's made in Australia, it's my trust, the old torque wrench I've always had, some people have digital ones and all kinds of stuff, this is my pick, silver talk, we know you can spend a little corn on a torque wrench nowadays, yeah, apparently there's a sequence we're doing, there's another assist base breaking down, they're all super glued together so that when the lights come together I break them, they are designed to break, yes, designed to break that super glue, sorry, it was beautiful, it's a good sign, so we already have our rings under these and we put them on before, so no.
I need to remove them again, just talk to them, well, actually, let everything calm down and then we'll put them together, we'll go over them again from now on. I already did. I pre-assembled this engine before we put it together tonight because I always do. A mock check makes sure everything is perfect and while I do a mock check of everything I always do my thing in flight so the inflation is already done so we'll just assemble the whole front and then put the front cover on it to see that looks beautiful. I use it on the switches because they are rated 12 point 9, yeah, there's our template.
I'll get it, yes there is a torque setting for this, my risk here is that I've done a lot of saws and exactly what I'll pay attention to three ogres of Akkad, okay, that's for the steering wheel, so where are we? This here is the thrust washer spacer, so aim for the flight spacer. Many problems can occur when people remove the front pulley so it sits on the lower thrust bearing so you see it sits there. What happens sometimes is when people change a front pulley on the engine they lift it up, the spacer goes up, the bearing falls in the back and then they flatten it all out again, okay, okay, it causes big problems, so I don't know, I don't even know.
I don't even know what happened, no, you won't know what happens. That, but well, you can check if you are inflated and that is a good sign that something has happened there, so it is very important that when you remove a front pulley from a rotary, this should be checked mm-hmm, the best way, Obviously, it is pulling the front timing cover frequently. and just check there are theories behind how you should do it and how you shouldn't, but at the end of the day that thrust washer falls out, you're in big trouble, it chews up the bearings, that's a counterweight, so this was provided with the crankshaft, We can still buy a factory one yes but we go for the aftermarket ones because they can run thicker or they can run a heavier bill because what we run is really serious for turbo so it should have been through these years but It's too beautiful. they were lower, yes they love the 8.4 to 1 compression ratio compared to 9.0 on a factory 20V, yes they are heavier which means their counterweights have to be heavier, it's okay, so if we use the 20 B ones that we actually have. a hit buying spare ones, they are heavier and then we can machine them to fit our counterweights, we need our oil pump gear, which we are not using, we still need it there and there, now the angle sensor crankshaft, yes, that's it. agricultural cover, this beer keg is almost complete, sauna almost there, so when we tighten the front nut, we are actually forcing the front lobe, the taper of the front lobe towards the main shaft, yes, so this has to be very tight, 270 Newton meters, huh? tight, let's take, let's get tired and this is a good part to hear a rotation for the first time, it's always a good noise, nice and smooth feeling, the two axes, movie 2.04 2.09, yes, here's our entry, like I said, I did it previously, so now it's perfect, let's take a look at it and then we'll apply liquid ice Norton Simon, I think you've created a masterpiece, thank you, no matter what angle you film it from, today it looks crazy, you'll notice.
I have engraved your logo on the cases. You know it's going to be really good. Come on, a very nice and subtle noisy garage, yes, at the same time. So Norton makes a wide range of products that are not just cleaning or polishing products, but we use them for deburring or something like that so you know your little flat wheels on the exhaust ports or when you want to deburr something, they also give a really good finish and one thing that I don't know if we mentioned before was the compression of the engine, what have you done with the rotors so that the compression stays the same as we do? clearance and what we call front clearance, so side clearance allows it because you get a lot of flex in the shaft, our bearing bracket tries to stop that but it will flex so what happens is the rotor starts to walk and move.
So by clearing the singer with the side clearance and toe it allows you to move without touching the end plates with the clearance on the face when moving and when you are on the compression stroke and trying to flex it to the other side of the rotor casing. Clearance to help that too, to give it more room so when it flexes it doesn't hit the case. One thing too is that a lot of people turn on their rotors, yeah, yeah, so what happens is when they lighten the road. it's for them to lighten them up, yeah, it looks good, it's fantastic and then when you go to balance them, the balancing is basically done on the rotor side and they take material out of there to balance it, when you lighten it, you can't take out more material so they start to take it out of the oil cooling area and take it out of that, it's never happened to me and why don't I lighten them, but I've seen it in the past where it starts to crack there, yeah, and it causes more problems than I know. okay, so now we don't like that Roeder and yes, thirteen are making fifteen hundred horsepower, you know, without light and rotors, probably more something heard in the past with a hundred naturally aspirated. percent, yeah, and that's really what I spray, you know we're pushing seventy pounds.
It's amazing, something you know, this size can make you know fifteen hundred horsepower, right? Yes, it's a no, not even yes, it looks like a broadcast. you know what it sounds like yeah they're a beautiful motor they actually look like an electric motor yeah yeah that day you're right so yeah it's good that we can move forward and make all these products and obviously we're going to move on to making some rotor. casings and rotors and as things get a little bit cheaper and we're always developing well, eventually you're going to have to because there just won't be any of this, no, at that point it's 12 days and everyone used to throw them away.
Yes, in the trash, yes, now twelve days, if we need to rebuild a 12a and put new road casings on, we have to get 13B and machine them. Yes, the 13 B's will hopefully be around for a long time. longer because it's very expensive to produce them, it's the aluminum and then with the chrome plating, that's where the cost is, so there's no one who can do it profitably. It's amazing how good Mazda got, you know, 50 or 60 years ago, yeah, yeah, it's good. Pull up tonight and you'll see a lot of the early engines and they all have bolts.
It's strange that we've gone back to those types of engines. They're not as tired as tolerance is what we're doing now, but you know, some of the stuff from the '60s and late '60s, you know we still use them, yeah, so using the same materials or the same casings and the same thing, a lot of people were probably wondering how much something like this is worth now you have to take into account what an OE 20 B is worth, it's one of the best, yes, so basically I think that when you pay 15,000 Australian dollars for a block, then dismantle it, rebuild another 15,000 on both your Porter Bridge and everything else. so I figure that's a good chunk of $30,000 Australian dollars so I figure another 10,000 on average because you can talk about different axles and different fuels semi pro obviously poured there's a lot of options but to keep it simple you probably add another 10,000. or so, by building a completely new block, so billet plates, new casings, new rotors, new crankshaft and basically similar specs, it seems like you're thinking about the $10,000 plus, 40-45k Aussie , it seemed like you did, so it shows.
Why are so many more people definitely starting to use that door? Once you get it right, it's not just about the billet plates, but you can't buy a genuine 20 B plate, you can't buy them, so if you take apart a second hand engine. and that's broken, which you know well, nine times out of ten they've been through wars, so you can buy one. Yeah, I mean, you have to go and buy a billet one, so if you're buying a billet. plate there so that sends your 30,000 Aussies to 35 so you're getting close to that you still have second place in part so this way everything is hot on everything this engine is new yeah like we weren't , these are 25 year old Engines so it's true, yes, so we are not saying that this one has some different specifications, so it is at the higher end of the market, so yes, we adapted it to meet the needs of the customers and that can change the price, yes.
Obviously, you guys also have dual and full rotor options. See there's a lot of 13B stuff out there, isn't there? Yes, they want their most popular engine. Yeah, we've made a lot of new 13 billet engines like we've made. built here, I'm not saying it's an all-billet engine, we're just saying billet parts capacity and yes, for anyone, yes, that's what Iran says, but it's not billet casings and it's not billet rotors and yes, we just call it billet. engine because it has billet plates, no different than the ones that use a billet block and an OH&S cylinder head yes exactly, basically our next build will be a quadrotor for Japan, yes, so that's something you probably want to come to the 100% and see how it is put together.
So that's another exciting project we're working on, all four of our rotors are going into Sadie's bins so that's going to be cool. The last time we filmed we didn't quite finish the engine because we were missing some of the parts, just the sun. So waiting for the dry sump pant that was cnc made on a 606 5, it is a beautiful product from the billet factory, so we will put it on the engine from time to time it will be ready to rev it up, the good thing is that we are lowering the silicone roof, no massacre either, it's very big: 16, let's put some strainers in there just to protect the oil pump, kind of beautiful, again, you have some other parts, yes, oh no, aside, this is an adapter of billet pro electric water pump with built in - 16a in fittings, so it stays nice, short and compact compared to everything else on the market, it also has provisions for your coolant sensor, has been hiring groups and they need skin joints and gaskets means CLN means miss, yes I call straight on, like everything else, it's beautiful, it fits like a rotary, so yeah, what's that nice kit you got there?
Another piece, yes, this Universal Front Engine Brace billet pro has some Nala Fane bushings to push into this. I have opted for the front engine and then he can adapt it. The engine of this car is going to go to a BMW. This will allow you to mount it. Assemble it accordingly. a little spin and we have a special plastic box that we will put it in and ship it to New Jersey, so next time you see it, hopefully it will be assembled, he has plans to build a nice billet plenum, yeah, and that. To do this, he's getting a fuel technology, he's already bought the fuel consumption, 600 feet of spark, there's a lot of good gears going on.
As for the turbocharger, let's figure out where we're going to start it first because always when you're building. For a new car from the ground up, it's always best to start at the low end, rate the performance before putting all this kind of power through it and then discover that you can't use it anyway, so we'll just start. It's going to be a huge turbine, it's going to be a big turbo, but yeah, it's always better to start from the bottom, so I'll be a 106 million, yeah, everyone makes a big package and then tomorrow, so it's not a drag car, so no. .
It doesn't have to be no, it's a little bit of everything, it's a little bit of everything, this car, so it's probably between 91 and 94 thousand, so I would like to thank Cody from Raley's garage for choosing promotions to put together the package of he. It's been really exciting. It took us a little while to get it just right, but I think we did it and we got all the good parts, we got the color scheme and he's behind it.

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