Back in Service After 16 Years - V12 BMW E31 850i Revival - Project Malaga: Part 2

the evil twin is coming he's

back

oh no, again you felt kind ladies and gentlemen what you did a coin is balancing on an engine we're going on a long trip 16

years

late precisely and I'm finally sitting in a lawn chair welcome

back

to the second

part

of the

malaga

project

, where after 16

years

of neglect, this series 8 will finally get some much needed downloadable content as we bring all its 12 cylinders back to life, these are some of the

part

s we will need to This resurgence is probably just the beginning, but you have to start somewhere. The first thing I want to know is why this car won't start.

I'm starting by checking the fuel pumps as this is the most common cause. Hi Yes. of those missing now let's see if these pumps are working no, one is dead, you can hear it clicking but it doesn't hum, the other one is working, but it's probably weak, so it has to be okay, that's very good news. Bad news with fuel pumps. The good news is that this is an almost certain reason why this car won't start. One of the pumps that is working is a stock unit and probably too weak to supply proper fuel pressure. The bad news was that an incapable mechanic was already here.

I say incapable because this is a 30 year old strainer and they try to repair it with a little glue. We also have electrical tape on the wire pairs which we all know has phenomenal properties once submerged in fuel, for some reason they replace the black tubes. with these yellow ones we also have this wire that is broken, this is for the central fuel unit, so in general I need to do a little research for parts and try to repair it properly, but first I need to take apart everything that was not there. even connected to the strainer, now the other fuel pump has been removed.

Next I'm repairing the broken cable from the central fuel unit, it's pretty sturdy, it's not going anywhere, I can pull it, so here are the parts we need to fix the fuel pump. Assembly, I got some wires, corrugated flow hose, heat shrink tubing and crimp terminals. I also had to buy a crimping tool, I bought this one on Amazon and let me read you these professional crimping tools for the best technicians, the best tools for electricians, they are definitely not made in China anyway, the plan is to replace the broken wiring of the fuel pumps. I'm not going to touch the central fuel unit wiring because I think I'll do more harm than good, plus I've already checked the continuity and everything.

These wires are good heat shrink tubing and the terminals should be fuel resistant, but just to test that theory, they are left in the fuel for a couple of days and they are still perfectly fine, they didn't melt or dissolve so they are safe . using it on the fuel tank it's nice and firm that's the sound we want to hear great now it's time to attach these flexible corrugated hoses here haha ​​yeah this is a good time to see if this works yeah there it is , yes that's how it is. I wonder why I went to the trouble of rebuilding this set.

A new fuel pump bracket from BMW costs 653 euros and all of this, including the new pumps, cost less than 120 euros, which is a pretty good cost saving before they go back to work. I'm replacing. the two short fuel lines, oh that's close and executed beautifully, then I need to take the fuel tank out and clean it, here is the bottom of the fuel tank, it looks pretty good now, pretty clean, mandatory, I speak French with fluency in case you know. I didn't know how to add new fuel and make sure the bottom of the tank is still clean.

It's time to rekindle the spark between the fuel pumps and the car, there you have it, the gasket is there, meaning a working fuel pump assembly, now to check if the fuel gauge is working, no, It's not incorrect, but we'll deal with that later as the priority now is to get the car running. Next up the fuel filters, I'm replacing the filters, paying attention to their direction and cutting new fuel lines to size and this is the finished product and reinstalled back into the car. We are moving quickly to the engine compartment to inspect the ignition system.

Really ugly, really dirty. I'm removing the ignition wires to get a closer look. There it is after checking the resistance of the cables. It should be six kiloohms. I found four dead wires, more importantly, wires and cylinders six and twelve are faulty, which means the fuel supply will be cut off to both banks, as those wires contain cylinder notification sensors, which tells us. gives another reason why the car doesn't work. Start entering new ignition wires and donut sensors that we need to put on wires 6 and 12. The first thing we need to do is slide this boot over here, a little silicone spray, there is the plug that needs to be unscrewed in the direction counterclockwise as you attach it to the wire with a wood screw, you need this to hold it on a little bit better and then start unscrewing it so these spikes or prongs or whatever you want to call it it's important that they point towards the cap of the distributor, thus cutting a small portion of the cable for the wood screw to grip a little bit new now to verify that the cable is showing the correct resistance, that's a success, that's good.

Fun fact, I thought the intake manifolds were removed at some point and then painted, but nine were simply taped on. around and presumably used the spray can to paint it because there is overspray everywhere and the incapable mechanic didn't stop with the fuel pump as is evident here we have some fuel clamps that were removed from the fuel lines on the back of the engine when it was, I assumed it was checking the fuel supply and couldn't be bothered to put them back in, isn't that something? Then I'm vacuuming the filter housing and spark plug holes and removing the spark plugs.

Oh, they install new spark plugs, better ultra. and these are not the correct ones for this car, it's pretty clear that the previous owner and his useless mechanic tried to get this car running, since I removed all the spark plugs, I'm going to go the extra step and spray misting oil into each cylinder just to help lubricate things a little better for that first start, misting oil for men, after that I'm cranking the engine by hand, oh yeah, it's cranking very smoothly, it was time to change the spark plugs, the old ones are safe for another thing, since they are the wrong type for this engine spark plug replacement completed for a job well done I am rewarding myself with a blueberry muffin replacing the distributor caps and rotors to work with more clearance Later I will install the distributor caps now I will remove the belts and I will replace the pulleys.

Isn't that lovely? There are new pulleys versus old pulleys. New pulleys go in while the belts are left out during the first start. I don't want you to spin the water pump or power steering pump until the system is flushed. I also replaced the vacuum lines which There was another special addition of twigs, like twigs breaking off and two short fuel lines at the back of the engine, time for the new distributor caps, the new ignition wires go in and here's the State of the bottom of the engine oil and dirt everywhere, now I go. To clean all of this out the best I can, drop the oil pan and replace the gasket, so let's go ahead with that, let's drain the oil, so while the oil is still running, I'm going to open all of these bolts very gently, so that is. the oil pan looks pretty clean so let me show you the engine it actually looks pretty nice and clean overall everything looks good.

It's most likely the original gasket the car came with and it was fused to the crankcase, a simple job like this. turned into several hours of scraping, times like these are when you want a shot blasting cabinet that's the old bucket ready. I cleaned the surface of the container as best I could, but since it wasn't perfect, I'm using a light coat of gasket former. Normally I wouldn't do it on the tray side, but I felt it was necessary here to prevent the gasket from moving during installation. I'm using zip ties at various points to hold it in and for the bolts I'll use thread sealant and tread. in excellent oil once i secured the pan with some bolts i cut and removed the flanges for these bolts i went through the feel then the oil level sensor with a new o ring and finally the drain plug i mustn't forget the stupid ones brackets, the new filter gives you a good slap before you try to start the car for the first time.

I'm also changing the differential oil first, the ideal plug, here we go, so here's the default: we'll use 75w90 liquid molybdenum, which means it's full and gearbox oil. that looks pretty clean and that's definitely it, there are new filters, okay, there's nothing left to try to start it, okay, here we go, no, it's the right time to consult my repair manual and I panicked. I started troubleshooting by looking at the spark and it was posted on both banks, the fuel pressure was perfect at 3.5 bar, then I noticed the eml light was staying on, this light should go out after a few seconds when turning the ignition on , I plugged in my diagnostic tool and even though the engine computer didn't have any eml module codes it did for both banks.

I took a closer look at the throttle bodies and the flap was opening poorly and the resistance was out of spec. When I checked the multimeter, I grabbed a couple of good used ones from me. Sky I installed them and this. It solved that problem, the light was off and there were no more layers, but it still wouldn't start. I decided to remove the fuel injectors to take a closer look. Yes, the injectors look very dirty and most of them didn't even activate a supply with 12 volts. It was a good sign, in fact I sent it to be cleaned and tested while I do other jobs like depressing the clutch pedal.

It's time to attack the brakes and clutch. I'm starting to remove and clean the brake fluid reservoir. It's like black glue. There is. and here it is clean waiting to air dry as there are signs of brake fluid around the drive belt housing. I am replacing the clutch slave cylinder. Let's remove the line first, okay, oh, my finger, oh, that hurts every time there's a new one, okay? If these are the new rubber washers, perfect, then the reservoir was reinstalled and brake fluid was added using an electric bleeder. I'm bleeding the clutch line, here we go, disgusting brake fluid is coming out and after a thorough bleed, yes we have a clutch pedal, a working clutch.

Another area that needs to be addressed is the cooling system. I'm draining the coolant and replacing the expansion tank and thermostat. Oops, uh, I can, here's the new thermostat done. At this point, fuel injectors clean and working, it was time to give it a world one more time. it turned on check the injectors for leaks maybe you are a beautiful bastard the third one is alive and is actually running pretty decently say what you want about BMW but this third one has been neglected for 20 years realistically and look at it now first as a newly started kitten. and I'm balancing a two euro coin on top, but not everything is perfect.

Later I quickly turned it off and proceeded with the tasks at hand. The radiator was original and looked pretty poor, so I decided to replace it. Oh, there is one. connector here yes, how did you get there now that we have a lot of space for activities? I'm going to put the belts in there, it's a belt done and this just turned into a radiator unboxing video, okay let's move on to the crop connected a new expansion tank then added coolant and bled the system. I also drained and replaced the power steering fluid. I couldn't resist any longer and had to find out if the car would move under its own power in first gear.

Oh, beautiful. Otherwise, we have a vehicle running and driving, ladies and gentlemen, now we must first fix the brakes. I replaced all the brake lines and cleaned the bleeder screws after trying to bleed the brakes. Brake fluid was not getting to all four corners, which was expected. A car search would show that fluid was flowing well from the master cylinder to the abs pump, but no fluid was flowing through the pump, it was completely clogged. since new units are no longer produced and defective ones can be rebuilt. I went for the only option is to get a used one after installing the new used unit, the brake fluid was coming out of all four openings in the pump.

I put it all back together and this time the brake fluid was flowing smoothly and I was able toBleed the brakes completely so that now the car can also stop now back to the engine, the engine sounds good once warmed up but the cold start was quite difficult, it will be the intake manifold gaskets to confirm my suspicion. I hooked up a smoke machine to check for leaks, not sure how well you can see this on camera, but the leak is coming from the intake manifold gasket, as a guest, so they are definitely coming off. Disassembly begins.

Several connectors need to be unplugged as the wiring harness needs to be lifted over the engine so that everything on this side is free, everything on this side is also disconnected, so there are two more wires here, the fuel injectors come out again, there there, now we have access to the nuts that hold the intake manifold, oh there's one of the bastards that came out, these are the infamous gaskets, a known problem on the m70 engine, they are the camshaft banjo bolts that are They loosen over time, they hold the old replacement rod that feeds the camshaft with oil and if the bolts come off it causes starvation and permanent damage can occur, so while I'm in there I'm removing the valve covers to inspect them, it's out, oh there it is, done, it's actually a very clean valve car and even the rubber is still soft, the camshafts look beautiful, the insides of the engine are very very clean and the camshaft is in perfect condition.

None of the bolts were loose, but they were basically hand tied and the wood was pulled back out. Eventually let's start with the middle one. Here's a better view of the camshaft, which is in excellent condition to make sure it's permanently fixed. Using heavy duty threadlocker and locking tabs, the holes and bolts are thoroughly cleaned and the threadlocker is applied. The banjo bolts are torqued to 12 millimeters, then the tabs are bent and this is what it looks like. I am repeating the same on the other side which was not very tight this bench is also perfect, the contact surface is cleaned and also the valve cover which receives a new gasket before the cover returns.

I'm pouring oil over the camshaft sauce and putting on some sealant. in the parts where the covers meet the cylinder head just as they did at the factory, then the valve cover is reinstalled and not stored at 10 finite newton meters. While taking a good look at everything I discovered a treacherous coolant leak at the valley crankcase gasket, this had to be fixed and to access it many parts had to be removed including the water pump again, the fan clutch had to come out, coolant drained fan shroud and expansion tank thermostat belts and pulleys and finally the vibration dumper needs to be removed to gain access to the water pump bolts.

That's it, oops, voila, fascinating thing, isn't that next? I'm loosening the water pump bolts. I put the bolts in order so I know which one goes and where to safely remove the water pump. I'm using three 40 millimeter long m5 bolts that are threaded into the openings of the pump and as I screw them in it pushes the pump away from the motor, there are two tubes connected at the top that are stuck in pretty well so it's necessary to use some leverage to separate them, oh my god, I wouldn't do that. drop it damn, so these are the three holes here, the screws go through the back and push the water pump out, then the pipes can be removed, look at the valley pan first, I'm scraping off the gunk and vacuuming the valley pan bolts are noticeable. to break easily, something I wanted to avoid, I was soaking them with penetrating gold days before starting this job and now I'm hitting each bolt with a hammer to give them a little fear and pressure them to loosen on the first one. bolt, I also used some heat now let's set it on fire and turn this engine into creme brulee.

I moved the bolt back and forth and it came out pretty easily. Yeah, actually, that's one for the rest of them. I was just hitting them. with a hammer that worked pretty well and the bolts came out with no problems and that's all the bolts were removed. Oops, I cleaned the surface and then vacuumed all the debris, cleaned the cover, new gasket and galvanized bolts because the mating surface was a little rough and make sure it doesn't leak, I used a thin layer of sealant, the torque is 10 newton meters and that's it, the front of the engine was pretty dirty so I cleaned it up a bit, the pipes were reinstalled with new o-rings. and lubricated with silicone grease, I also opted for a new water pump again, all o-rings are new and lubricated with silicone grease for easier and safer assembly and it slides in, so the torque for the bolts of the water pump is 10 newton meters.

Done, there is a pin on the crankshaft hub to align the vibration damper. Yes, that's now back to the intake manifolds that were cleaned in preparation for assembly. The old gaskets were in good condition with no cracks, so they were cleaned and degreased since I am reusing them. them with Victor Right sealing compound. This is a proven method to reseal the intake manifold gaskets on this engine and save some money as new gaskets cost around 600 euros at BMW. The surfaces have been cleaned and a thin layer of sealant has been applied to both mating parts. The torque for the gasket, head is 24 Newton meters, then the intake manifold returns with sealant also applied to get to the lower nuts.

I'm using a long extension universal joint and some small magnets inserted into my 10 mil socket to keep the nuts from falling everywhere. The place where it worked perfectly, the torque for the intake manifolds is 10 millimeters and that's the last one. I left it overnight to settle and the next day I reinstalled the fuel injectors along with the throttle bodies and turned on the fog machine, confirmed there are no leaks and the system is working. sealed which seems pretty good to me before putting it all back together, I took the throttle bodies apart and cleaned them, I also replaced the cabin air filters with Citroen parts and this is what the cold start sounds like, it sounds absolutely brilliant now, it's a nice beautiful cold start and another It was an absolutely perfect time to check the fuel gauge after checking the resistance of both central fuel units the one on the driver's side was showing the wrong value upon removal I found the float was broken, so I got a used one in good condition, installed it and it doesn't? beautiful, it has exactly 20 liters in the fuel tank, so it runs perfectly and peace, the resistance, new emblems for the wheel covers, now the most rewarding part, driving the car for the first time, maiden words, yes , there we go, second gear, she is a beautiful brake machine. yes bellissima, unfortunately this car does not have German teeth, therefore it cannot be driven legally on the streets of Germany, so this little tour in the yard is all you and I can settle for pop-up headlights, yes, There are no errors on the board, the temperature. it holds up pretty well, the fuel gauge is working, moving on to the inside of the car, the front seats have a typical torsion problem where only half of the bottom of the seat moves while the other does nothing, the passenger seat didn't move at all but these are complete kaput I'm removing the seat to fix it and this also gives me a good opportunity to clean the mats tilt it that way this is one of the heavier seats and it's starting to raining oh, it's heavy, it's very heavy fix this It's quite simple and free: first you remove the cable from the motor and then you trim the cable sheet by about 15 millimeters, this way you can push more cable into the motor so that it can hook it properly where before it would just slide with that done. the passenger seat it was also time to clean the interior to clean and treat the leather.

I'm wearing leather. I first vacuumed and brushed the seats thoroughly and this is the condition of the letter. Using an applicator, I am then applying rejuvenating oil generously. massaging the oil into all the surfaces and crevices of the leather i let them bake in the sun while i start on the inside as this question comes up often these are some of the cleaning products i use and now i can hear the music. The last step for the ladder is to clean it with a spotless cleaner and a damp microfiber cloth. The end result is a fresh, supple leather that has a clean matte finish where areas would benefit from being re-dyed, but for a 30 year old light colored leather they look pretty.

Well, once the seats are back in the car, I can test if my repair was successful. Yes, it's working. I am a strong man. Work well done. The interior looks incredible and it's a beautiful place to be, so it took a decent amount of effort to bring this legend back to life, but watching it run and drive is a wonderful sight to behold. The end result is satisfying knowing that another e31 has been revived as a conclusion to this series. I did a breakdown of the parts we needed for the repairs and their cost there is still work to be done but the new owner will take care of that as the time has come to say goodbye to this beautiful car.

Now that the Malaga

project

is finished, I can focus again on the Dubai project and prepare it for the German tooth as well. m5 needs some work so expect a video on that too oh no so kind ladies and gentlemen what you did right. I could have bought another project and it comes from far, far away until it has ten cylinders and three pedals. the highlight is a little bit broken what was it it's pretty broken there is congratulations you just ruined yourself financially idiots i don't get it i thought i would be happy it's a broken bmw whatever thank you so much for watching and if you enjoyed the video , please consider supporting the channel by subscribing bye, are you crazy?

You bought a car on the other side of the world without having seen it, not even a pre-purchase inspection, what's wrong with you? What if you can't see it at all? And if? It comes, it's got three wheels, half a motor, what a genius, I mean, you've done some stupid things in your life, but this is just my finest moment.