‪Arcade1UP Raspberry Pi Install Tutorial - RetroPie in an Arcade1UP

What's going on, guys? CTA Prime is here again today. I'll show you how to place a Raspberry Pi inside your 1up arcade cabinet. Well, I'll show you exactly what I did to fit a Raspberry Pi into my case. You can follow it if you want now, even before continuing. I had to add extra buttons because the Raspberry Pi actually requires a select button for player one and a select button for player two. Some people may not want to modify their cabinet. this way, but what I did was drill two additional holes in the control panel. Now you can always drill them into the side or bottom or even the back of the cabinet so they don't show, but you'll need to add a couple more. buttons or switches now I see these enclosures as toys and I didn't want to invest a lot of money in a toy so I use cheap USB encoders and cheap buttons.

You can always go for high-end products if you want, but I really would. I don't recommend it for a taxi like this before we start, we will definitely need some items first on the list, we will need a Raspberry Pi now, through this entire list, here you can substitute for cheaper or more expensive items, this is just what I used, this is a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ and a cute case. The case acts as a heat sink so I don't need a fan and it keeps it really cool. You'll also need an SD card and a power supply now.

I recommend using a 5 volt 2.5 amp power supply. All the links for everything I mentioned here will be in the description below. You can get them all on Amazon or Ebay as we will be using the original monitor that came in the arcade. I'll need some way to convert it to HDMI. These are known as LCD controller boards or LVDS controller boards. I get mine on Amazon now, but I think they're sold out since I made the initial video, but you can still pick them up. on eBay and I will also leave a part number in the description so you know exactly what to look for.

This will convert the original LCD screen inside Game Room 1 to HDMI VGA or DVI. I'm sure there are others that will work. with the monitor inside the game room one up so do your research if you're not going to get this exact board here the only two parts of this kit we'll be using are the controller board and the Setup button board so we can connect this to the controller here we can control the color we can open the menu contrast on off and we can even change the inputs from here in fact some of these are sold on eBay with a remote control so you can control everything from the remote of a TV, the next thing I suggest buying is a complete arcade button kit that comes with all the buttons we will need and two joysticks, the joysticks and one up arcade cabinets are not high quality, they are made of them. plastic and after about a week of playing with it, you may have to take it apart and reattach the springs to get them to work properly.

These are very cheap on eBay and Amazon, they are not the best quality, but they will work with the Raspberry Pi and don't let anyone tell you that they are complete rubbish because they are not. You may come across some people who had problems with them. They don't feel as nice as the HAP or Sanwa buttons, but they work well with the Raspberry Pi. The USB encoders included with one of these kits are perfect for the PI. We're not trying to put all the brand name parts here and spend $500 on our control panel. We are trying to go as cheap as possible because the cabinet in general is very cheap to begin with.

You'll also want to get a small amplifier. These cost between ten and fifteen dollars on Amazon and eBay. It also comes with its own power supply. You can also add an additional speaker if you would like and it will sound great in a small cabinet like this and finally some additional things I use for this I build a power strip some zip ties a Phillips screwdriver an Exact knife or something to cut and finally let's go to I need a way to Drill those extra holes for the extra buttons. Now I use a step drill bit, this goes to an inch and three-eighths, but you can also find a 30 millimeter or 24 millimeter hole saw depending on the buttons you are attaching. there and if you have a local Harbor Freight near you, these steps are pretty cheap and are very useful if you are doing any type of arcade work on arcade devices or cabinets, so let's go ahead and convert the LCD monitor. to HDMI before we start anything, we want to make sure this works because this is the main component of this unit, the LCD screen, we're just going to take the motherboard out of here under this little panel is what powers the Raspberry Pi, it's a very low level.

The final single-board computer has a single-core one-gigahertz processor with 256 or 512 megabytes of RAM. The board itself also has the LCD controller built in, so all we're going to do is take it out of the back here, disconnect the LCD connector, and power it on. the LEDs and we're also going to need to remove this ground now that we have the old board in the trash can it's time to get to work we're going to grab our new LCD controller there's a place here for the ground you need to get some nut and bolt yourself, it doesn't come with these kits or anything like that.

We'll just take the ground from the LCD panel and place it right on the board. Here, put the nut on, tighten it and we are grounded now we need to plug the power connector for the CFLs into the monitor. I'm pretty sure this is a CFL and off the LED monitor, we're going to go ahead and plug it right here into this port and the LCD itself has a little 30 pin header right on the board that's going to plug right in here and If you look very closely all the red wires are on the far left, this kit comes with a small options board or configuration board.

I don't know exactly what the call is that will turn on and off, change a menu button and things like that, it will connect here now, all we have to do is set this all up. You can use double-sided tape or screws, but no. Mount it directly to the metal plate on the back of the LCD screen, as you see. I have it down here in the wood. I have double sided tape on the back and it works perfectly like that. The LCD controller we just

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ed requires 12 volts and fortunately, the original power supply that came with your 1up arcade cabinet works fine before we continue, let's go ahead and test this, make sure it works with the LCD screen.

I'm going to connect my Raspberry Pi. You can connect anything that has HDMI it should appear on the screen as long as everything is connected correctly and the LCD drivers are working so yes I have a picture here we are running from the HDMI port all my Raspberry Pi to the built in LCD screen on the game room once. to modify the control panel, so I have chosen to change everything here. The buttons are fine. They use very cheap microswitches inside them, but the joysticks are pretty horrible. Here it is an all-plastic design. They have microswitches, but no.

The best: the cheap knockoffs from Amazon and the arcade wah sticks are better than the ones here and that's what I'm going to use. I bought the entire kit you saw at the beginning of this video for $40 and it works great on the Raspberry Pi. when we take this control panel off, I'm sure you've seen this because you built your own, we're going to have this cover, we're just going to take it off, you can always put it on later if you want, but we need to access the buttons here, like this Fortunately, we don't have to unsolder anything to get everything out of here.

Everything is plugged into the top, so in theory you could use all the original buttons and devices with a USB arcade encoder. Now the buttons will connect directly, but the joysticks are configured a little differently. They have two connectors on the end instead of a single connector, but I went with all new buttons because I actually have to add a button for each player, so I need an extra button for player one and an extra button for player two so that each button is disconnected from the board at the top. You'll just tighten the little connectors on the side.

If I can squeeze them right, I'll get them off the top. each button will do this, you can take it right out, they will connect to a USB arcade encoder, but now it's easier to change everything, we'll just remove the levers, disconnect it from the board, make sure you remove the ball. top from the other side, unscrew the four screws and take it out, here is the completely clean panel. Now I left the speaker and the on/off buttons, we're not even going to play with those on/off buttons for this build. We'll keep this original speaker in place because we'll just connect it directly to the amplifier we're adding.

You can find a connector for this or you can just cut it off if you know you'll never use it again. What I'm going to do is I just cut off the end, so I chose these longer screw type buttons because the panel is quite thick. Now I could have used real Sanwa buttons. I have a lot of them lying around. I have more than enough to complete. this, but sometimes they come out of the top, here's the Sanwa and as you can see it's very short, it won't lock properly into place. This is a standard arcade button, one of the LED screw type buttons I have right in the middle. the ones I'm going to use and they're going to be perfect, basically any 30 millimeter button should work here, you're just going to throw it away since I'm using the screw type, I'm going to tighten it and that's it.

So, as I mentioned at the beginning, I was going to add two additional buttons to this control panel. I did this by drilling 230 millimeter holes with a step drill bit, here they are now 30 millimeters. You can use a thirty millimeter hole saw or lift a step. Kinda like this one from your local Lowe's, if you're afraid of damaging your control panel you can always drill a hole in the game cabinet or you can use a smaller button. Many of these kits come with a few extra 24 millimeter buttons that might be easier to drill a smaller hole, but the main reason I added two extra buttons was to select four player one and select four player two with backfoot.

It's nice to have those extra buttons, we can set them up as hotkeys and also all the buttons are Now that you're going to connect to these USB encoder boards, you can always go all out and buy an eye pack for $60 if you want, but they are cheap and do the job with the Raspberry Pi. I already mentioned it once, but I have to do it again, you don't need to go out and buy a $60 to $100.00 encoder board for the Raspberry Pi. These cheap boards here are actually six dollars each if you buy them separately and they will work just as well if you build an emulation PC that costs a lot of money, use more expensive parts, we are emulating all of this on a single board computer that costs 35 dollars with cheap encoders, here's a quick look at the included arcade sticks that come in the arcade version. units, they are completely plastic, weigh nothing at all and, in my opinion, are not garbage for reference.

Here are the cheap sticks that come with my $40.00 arcade button kit that I'm putting here. You can just look at them and say they are taller. Quality, it's a Sanwa clone, now they don't fit exactly here, so you'll have to drill four more holes, very easy to do. Place the stick down, line it up. Mark your holes before drilling anything. Make sure you line it up from the. on the front, so you're going to check it on the front, make sure the stick is directly in the center, mark the holes, drill a small pilot hole and then put the screws back in.

It's very simple to do, just take your time and triple check that everything is okay. aligned correctly before you start drilling, moving on to the button wiring, depending on the kit you get it might be a little different. Usually when you buy a kit, they have some type of manual, either digital or that comes with it, so this is an LED button. kit there are four pins on each button two of them are for the LED two of them are for the switch when you are wiring a dual pin button it doesn't matter it is not polarity sensitive so you can put the red on the black or black on red it doesn't really matter all this does is join the two wires together when you press the button now for the LEDs it does matter these are polarity sensitive you will have to put the positive where the positive goes in the negative, where the negative goes, The best course of action is to follow the manufacturer's instructions or find something similar online and find instructions for that.

These are types of screws, so I'll skip right through. I'm going to grab the plastic bracket or the plastic nut. whatever you want to call it, screw it right into the collar, make sure everything is flush so the buttonstay in place. One thing to remember when using two of the same encoders with a Raspberry Pi is that you need to connect each side if you have one. One player and two player need to be connected exactly the same, so for example, if that's our A button, we'll connect it to port one. We also need to connect the A button of the other player to the same port on the other board.

If it's not connected correctly this way, sometimes if you turn off the PI it will get mixed up and some of the buttons on the second player will be assigned to the first player, why are each button on each encoder in exactly the same place? you assemble your encoder is up to you. I'm just going to use some double sided tape which works well for me. You can place it on top, just make sure you have enough wire to reach any and all pins you may have to move this. around or wire everything and then mount it somewhere where you're not stretching the wires and again you need to wire both sides exactly the same so like I said, let's say this button here is my button for player 2 now.

I'll connect it to the end of the encoder and these don't have to go in a specific order, they just need to be exactly the same on both sides. You will assign these controls later. Now I'm going to move on to my player 1. I'm going to locate it. Exactly the same button that this button will be. I'll just call him for this video. I'm going to connect my cable to that button on player 1, my a button and I'm going to connect it to the exact same port as I'm going to connect it to the encoder on my second player.

I'm going to do this one more time. We'll call it our B button, so our B button on player 2. I'll just plug it into the switch. I'll plug it into a port on my USB encoder. I'm going to move on to player 1. I'll find the same B button. I'll plug my cable directly into the switch, not the LED, and plug it into the second port. My first player encoder, so now we have the A and B buttons on both sides connected to the same port on each encoder. I'm going to go over the LEDs real quick for this unit.

Here all kits are created differently unless you have the same kit. I have it here so it comes with a daisy chain LED connector, you would think the one marked with red paint is positive but it is not in my kit it is actually the negative so the black ones will go where the red paint is . The red ones will go where there is no paint, we're going to do that all the way and this here plugs directly into one of the red ports on your encoder which will simply illuminate the buttons when the encoders are powered on from the Raspberry Pi.

I'm sure there are tons of videos on how to connect a USB encoder on youtube, if you have any problems, go ahead and look for one. I'm sure there is something that can help you so I have everything plugged in here, this is my long USB for my Raspberry Pi it will plug directly into that port. I ended up having to move my encoders as you can see. I mentioned that you may have to fiddle with it as for the volume and power button, we are not using this at all in this cabinet we are using the original speaker everything is wired the USB plugs that connect to the encoder boards will connect to the Raspberry Pi both new buttons in place this is where I drilled the holes and connected all the LEDs and connectors.

It's time to connect everything, okay, so let's go ahead and

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everything. These are our two speaker cables that will go to the amplifier. You can extend them if you want, but I want to set up my amp here and they'll come in just fine. The first thing we need is a power strip. I'm using a cheap three dollar power strip from Walmart. I'm just going to tape it with double-sided tape to the bottom of the cabinet. These are our two USBs for our encoders. I've marked one with a zip tie - no, that's player 1, the amp I'm using in this build comes with a 12 volt power supply.

I'm going to go ahead and plug it in. We want to set up the amplifier. Now you can mount this anywhere. you want, as long as the wires are each - that's how I did it, so I've already placed some double-sided tape on the back of my hand. I'm going to go ahead and plug in my speaker. I won't do it. unsure which one is positive or negative, you can change it later, but either way will work, it may sound a bit strange if swapped. I'll just mount it on the side right here. I didn't have to extend them. speaker cables.

I'm going to need to connect power to the amplifier. I'm going to take that 12 volt power supply that's already connected to the power strip, plug it in directly and now we need to take our 3.5 millimeter audio cable. a 3.5 millimeter connector on the amplifier and another on the controller board, we will plug it in right here and connect it to the amplifier, the Raspberry Pi will send audio and video through the HDMI and getting the audio from the board to the amplifier is now When it comes to mounting the Raspberry Pi, the same thing here. I'm just going to put some double-sided tape on one side.

I'm going to mount it right under the amplifier. Now it's time to connect our HDMI. I'm going to connect one side to the LCD controller board. I'm going to connect the other side to the HDMI output of the Raspberry Pi. Now we need to take the USBs that are connected to our USB. arcade encoders and connect them to the pi of one marked with a zip tie so I know it is player 1 and when you plug them in and start setting up your input player 1 might be detected as player 2 so you will have to swap these USB now.

It's just a matter of connecting all the power which is for Raspberry Pi and we will also need the stop power supply that comes with your one-up arcade system to connect it to the LCD controller board after connecting all the powers and we can continue. Go ahead, plug the power strip into the wall and turn on the system. Now I'm going to go through here with zip ties and cable ties to make everything look good, but for now we need to make sure everything works so we have everything connected, go ahead and turn the whole unit on.

I just plugged the power in and the power strip was already on. You're going to start booting here now. This is a custom splash screen I created. You can create it in Photoshop or even paint if it is not possible to configure a Raspberry Pi. It's your thing. I have a

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coming up on how to put a Pandora's Box here. Everything is already pre-configured for you. You just need to connect your buttons so you can see the detected gamepad. I'll set it up as usual. now you can configure these buttons however you want, this is how I put mine together and when we run out of buttons to press, we will simply hold down one that we have already assigned, it will jump to the end and we need to configure we configure a hotkey to configure the player 1, now we need to configure player 2 and if you ever have any problem where both controllers are doing the same thing or interfering with each other, remember to connect those encoders exactly the same and if that still doesn't work you can always go to Retroarch and map them individually.

Now it's time to test all the controls. Make sure to screw the control panel back on. Make sure everything is okay before you start putting the screws back in. because you might have to rewire, you never know, since this is a Street Fighter taxi, we're going to go with a Street Fighter game. I need to put some coins for the first player. I'll do this by pressing Select or any button you want. map to select, press start, pick up the first player, throw some coins for the second player, choose my characters, just test both players, make sure all my buttons are working so both encoders work independently, don't interfere with each other if I have two. -The player control panel working here wanted to try one more before leaving here.

X-men vs. Street Fighter is fine, so it works well. I hope you can get one of these up and running like I mentioned if you don't like it. Raspberry Pi will be doing a Pandora's Box

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very soon, you will still need that LCD controller board to add HDMI or VGA to get Pandora's Box to work with this unit and there are also a bunch of different versions of Pandora's Box that I have. A real gem, a Pandora's Box 6 and I also have the Box Stick version of the Pandora's Box 5, so whichever way you go with Pandora's Box, I've got you covered.

A lot of people have been asking me about the xu4 and yes it will work. This has an HDMI input now the only thing that worries me is that the encoders work correctly with the Xu 4. I have still tested it with the latest version of Ori. I guess I could go ahead and flash that deep card and give it a shot, so that's it for this video guys. I really appreciate you seeing it. I hope you guys can get a Raspberry Pi or Pandora's Box on your 1up arcade if you want to mod it, if not I completely understand.

I would really appreciate it if you would. Guys, you might hit the like button, maybe think about sharing the video and subscribe to the channel. All the links for everything I used in this video are in the description, but I can't guarantee they will be in stock because usually when I make a video like this everything sells out very quickly. I'll try to find as many vendors as I can and as always, thanks for watching.