Apple said NO to fixing this iPhone! Can I?

Hi Jason, Several months ago, my daughter plugged in her iPhone to charge the battery overnight. When he woke up he noticed the phone was off, wouldn't turn on and wouldn't charge later in the week, after making an appointment he took the phone to his local Apple Store Apple Store technician took the phone to the back of the store, did some sort of quick test and then came back to tell my daughter that it was not a battery problem and that they couldn't fix the phone, please investigate and let us know if you agree, accept that

this

problem of the phone is not a battery problem and that the phone cannot be repaired and if that is the case please let us know if you can recover the data, photos etc. of the telephone.

Hello everyone, Jason, I hope. They are all doing very well so today I am going to take a look at

this

phone and see if what the Apple Store is telling this customer is true and also if there is anything I can do to help so here we are having a Look at this darling iPhone, as you can see this is just your standard iPhone, which doesn't really change much over the years and clearly hasn't been fully cared for, we have a few scratches and dents here on the screen protector. but you know it didn't die after falling, it died just sitting on the charger overnight, so if we plug this into a charger, which is probably all Apple did to the USB power meter, we just get a beep. blip blip blip, you know, we are getting like 450 milliamps, so nowadays with the newer phones like the iPhone 12 series and above, first of all, this is not a new phone, but it is still very important to be very efficient at troubleshooting because the way Apple has changed the way motherboards are assembled it's tremendously important to know exactly where the problem is before you start taking things apart because it's no longer cost effective to just take things apart and going crazy Chase, trying to find a short, it's immensely important to find the short and then take the board apart and repair it, so I hope I can use this iPhone 10r to show you what it is, I mean the phone actually has some screws.

That makes me happy, it's always nice to have missing screws and a noisy battery inside, but no, this just looks like a standard phone that's never been opened before, probably what I'm going to do with this one by speeding up the air. going up a bit is turning it on so the phone boots with all the data intact and then I'll do what I call a 2B secure backup. I have a passcode, right, yes, I have a passcode, so if I get this phone to boot I mean, when I get this phone to boot I'll run a backup to be safe and then I'll finish this as a repair, so done we'll bill it as a repair and send it back to the customer and they just have all their data intact, so we're going to heat this up so it opens just a little bit and it's easier.

Now you can notice I'm in a new area here. It's been quite a while since I posted a video. but I've actually been here in this area for I don't know six or seven months or something and it's a lot easier to control the weather, so it's okay, anyway welcome to my new store. I'm glad you stopped by to watch my video. I warm this up. I'm going to use my built-in thermometer here to check its temperature and make sure I don't overheat it, so I think we're almost up to temperature. Now I'm going to close my a great handy opener here on this phone and a suction cup to put it down.

I really liked this tool, look how it likes that broken screen protector, are we okay? So I'm going to start opening this up and continue to apply a little bit. Heat now on newer newer models like the 12 series and above. I use a Q-tip with a little bit of alcohol around the outside, it's not really necessary on these 10 series, although it's okay, that suction cup is pretty open, so Let's take this out of the opener, let's see what we have behind door number one. If I had heated it up a lot more, it's actually possible to open it up and leave all the adhesive in place on this model that we've only got I've got this flex cable down here to deal with and then one up here to deal with drum roll please , shit, just pretend we didn't see that and voila, we have a non-mutilated iPhone, what do you know about that non-mutilated one? iPhone is fine, so here I have the logic board for this thing.

I'm going to go ahead and start trying to figure out where exactly the short is. I'm going to check the battery rail first, of course, because that's where we're going to start well, so I'm going to put my red probe on the ground and I'm going to use my black probe to do the test and then on the battery line , which is inside the battery connector here. I'm getting a 43 in diode mode, which is a good reading. We know it's not shorted, so let's take a look at the schematics and see where we should go from there.

Here we are looking at the view of the iPhone 10 R plate and the battery line. here it will go directly to the Yang Z or whatever you see here at the bottom of the board, here now I want to see if there are test points that can allude me to other things here without taking this board apart again. I don't want to guess and I'm just trying to solve this at random, so that shows me here at the top of the board, we have some other test points, we have TP 445, that's what I'm going to look for next. that's actually under the stickers here so I'm going to start removing them and for that I like to use just a little bit of alcohol because I also like to put the stickers back on, this allows me to take them off without mutilating them. and I'm just going to follow the line here and figure out where this short is.

Most likely it is a main short or possibly a momentum short. I probably should have let the alcohol steep for a little longer. come on so now we remove the label now I'm going to move on to the next test point in line here and see what we're getting for a diode mode reading so again red probe on ground and it's going to be the you know the 90 angle degrees here, so I'm going to come back here and try this one now. I'm getting a voltage drop to ground of 0.0 and I don't have my multimeter connected so I can show you.

If you don't believe me, I'll be fine now. I

said

before that it's really very important to know exactly where the problem is before you start taking the board apart. It's more important on the 12 series and up where once you take the board apart it takes a bit of time to put it back together but it's not really impossible, they still work great just adds a lot of time which is why the 10r is similar in the sense of the temperature at which we have to use. removing some of these shields puts you right on the edge of floating some of the most important tiles, so before we start breaking things up, what I'm going to try to do here is limit exactly on this board where that short before Even really start using any kind of heat or doing anything to it, so we'll start at the vdd, the main Z line ripped off the pp vdd and see where we can go from there and then look back at the dashboard view.

Let's see that this PP vdd Yang Z main line barely goes anywhere on the board which is isolated from an area right here around the Yang Z. I see that if we look at this a little bit closer, we'll find a resistance in this. The line and the way it is configured looks like a shunt resistor used to measure current. We have all that Samsung stuff here, but on the other side of the shunt resistor, so here on the Yang Z side. that's PP vdd man Yang Z and then on the other side we have our actual main PP vdd, which It's most likely where the Short will be, so to find this short we need to inject some power and let this board, you know, pull a little bit. current so we can see where the heat signature is, but we're not going to want that current to come in at the beginning of this shunt resistor to measure the current because we could probably smoke this thing, so we're going to want to come in on this side, let's select PP vdd Main and let's look around to see if there's anything I can connect to without desoldering or removing any shields, so that at the bottom of the board, nothing jumps out at me from the start. except maybe for this debug connector that's covered with a sticker, let's see if we can go after that debug connector, so here we're looking at the bottom of the board and we're going to go right into this area that's covered with a sticker and remove it because there's a place here where we can directly access vdd Main, so let's get this little sticker out of the way and don't laugh at my tweezers, you know, they fell off.

The floor under me and the way they folded it actually made them a special tool, so we'll just remove this sticker from here and now we'll look at the view of the dashboard if we zoom in really close and look at this. debug connector we can see that most of the pins right in the middle of here are going to be main vdd so I'm just going to scrape off some of these pads so we can solder them and I say some because To find a short we're going to need to run some current . I saw another place on this board where I could access a single Pad, but let's stay off the ground plane.

I don't want to get hooked. where I only have one trace to carry all the current that I'm getting ready to pass here we go now to make sure I'm barking up the right tree here I'm going to go ahead and check this just for a brief moment, I'm going to check here where I just scraped and we should definitely hear a beep and I'm measuring 0.0 ohms to ground. I'm going to go ahead and clean up some flux here I should to do it now let's put some solder in place let's just go put these T pads on nothing fancy I probably should have done a better job of scraping them in there to be completely honest with you, I wonder how these clamps fell off, so let's take our little piece of jumper wire here that I use all the time and I'm just going to hit it with an iron and solder it right on top of here again, nothing fancy probably wants to be a little more elegant than it should be. good enough unless you just jump in there, wait, wait, wait, we'll take it, let's leave it there now.

I'm pretty sure I can connect here, on that ear, to ground myself and check that. I'm going to check and make sure that I have ground continuity. It doesn't, so it won't work. What about the other side? What happens if we verify that it is not? None of that has continuity to ground, so I'm going to go down here towards the bottom. from the board check here what the heck are any of these screw holes ground that's crazy okay then I'll screw a screw into the standoff post okay now I'm going to take my DC power supply and connect one of my probes on the ground just like that and then I'm going to connect my other probe directly to that wire that I just soldered there now that I have the power supply set to 4.3 volts, I'm going to drop that down to 4 volts and I'm going to exit the thermal camera.

So far, this is my favorite thermal camera. It's an infra T2, something, something, something, it's like 25 frames per second and I use all the crap on this thing, especially on newer model phones where we need to find out exactly where the short is before deciding whether or not to disassemble the board, so here we are looking at the thermal image and we can expect my little wire to get hot, let's try to ignore it. Let's try to find some area of ​​this board that we see jumping towards us because I'm pretty sure we're on the other side of the shunt resistor.

I mean, I'm pretty sure the short. it's on the other side of the shunt resistor and I'm going to activate the power supply to turn it on, so here we go and 1, two, 3, let's crash, oh, you'll see a little bit of heat showing here in the corner. I think it's actually in a really nasty place, so let's zoom in a little bit closer here around this area. I'm going to plug the power supply back in so we can see the heat right next to those two screw standoff posts, right? It's closer to the top engagement position, let's get a little closer, are we okay?

Here and let's check it out. Well, this is where the sort of elimination process comes in. Now I know that this board is actually showing a heat signature right here and because it's taking a little while to fade, I'm going to assume that that short is actually on the other side of the board, right there, so we can run with that information and we can In fact, switch back and just take a look at the dashboard view again, the separation post is right here and that's where the heat comes in and that's right above this little Jaguar here, like this Then look at the other side of the board.

He's going to place us somewhere here in the neighborhood here and you can see we've got all these little caps in this area and man, I was sure he hoped we'd get lucky.I would be completely honest because after you trade in your device, they are Absolutely I'm going to send this in and restore it and fix it and then probably resell it again, so, yeah, that's it for now, if you're still watching my video after all this time, I really appreciate it and if you still come back to my channel and watch my videos after being inactive for so long.

I can't thank you enough for that, let me know what you think in the comments below, give me a thumbs up and I'll see you in the next one, have a nice day. everyone thanks for watching