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Andy Learns Thai Cooking Techniques from a Thai Chef | Bon Appétit

Andy Learns Thai Cooking Techniques from a Thai Chef | Bon Appétit
okay so today's assignment I am going to be looking into the Sun region of

Thai

land it's in the northeast region of

Thai

land six years ago I went to

Thai

land for about a month not a planned trip I'll give you the story I was living in this crazy warehouse base in Brooklyn that got shut down by the DOB Department of Buildings and that was unfortunate but I'm just buying a one-way ticket of

Thai

land I had never been before I love the food and I felt even more in love when I was there when I was there I took a decent amount of photos and I haven't looked at them for a while so I'm gonna take a look now you guys want to see them some sometime me that's I might get into selfies some cows oi this was incredible I think this could meal cost like $6 so these are some shrimp balls being made my favourite but it was the food of the Isan region that I really fell in love with all the flavors were kind of hiding to compare to anything else that I had in

Thai

land it was punchy was super super bright the fiery heat that would just like linger on and hug go away I'm gonna be going to a restaurant in Manhattan and the East Village called some thunder I'm gonna be working with the owner sue Panay we're gonna cook through a lot of dishes I'm familiar with and some that I'm hoping that I'll I've never seen before I imagine there'll be some some grilled meats and fried chicken so I'm like salivating I'm just thinking about it it...
andy learns thai cooking techniques from a thai chef bon app tit
is by far one of my favorite type of foods to eat this is the restaurant this is the menu and this is the okay we're in the East Village I'm at some Thunder with the owner sue Panay sorry the cop I know we have a lot of ingredients you put out they represent like the five different flavors of what makes Isan cuisines so unique if you could take me through it sure we have five different flavors and the first one is sweet and then we have salty and spicy and sour and the last one is Peter one of the main characteristics of this and food is that in one bite you can taste all these flavors kind of there's some of the ingredients I'm familiar with so I'm not so the first one is pump sugar it's very dense and it's like a pellet you have to break down mm-hmm this is just white sugar and this is brown sugar okay so this is filled crab this is fermented this mainly go to some famous by agreement by Sun because it's a shellfish I would think it's like a salty flavor but you're saying it falls under the kind of sweet pillar yes is that really good it is it a little salty but it's more sweet than anything and then this one over here this is the peacock Valley with juice we make a lot of sauce with with this juice and sometimes we used to hope he's happy it's funny because I mean I would think like it's would provide acidity or be sour but it's it falls under the sweet category I'm gonna try just the juice the liquid sweet...
andy learns thai cooking techniques from a thai chef bon app tit
the next one the salty if you're talking about this and food you cannot escape abusing fish sauce also another type of fish sauce that we use is fermented one mm-hmm so this one is like punching and it's very strong so I'm feeling more familiar with this fish sauce over here kind of has that clear deep amber how would you describe the flavor difference between this one and this one the flavor I think this is more intense I should try this one first okay not too much very very concentrated that's a strong fish sauce right is there anything else in this you have actually you have salt pickled garlic juice and believe it or not they put the honey on sticky rice cream huh this one almost has like a sweetness to it thicker consistency I love that you love it yeah it's very strong it's very pungent the third is this is a spicy the eat some food can be very very spicy so I guess you have to we have to chilies here dried chilli and this is the bird eye chilli when would you use the fresh one versus the dried one the dry one actually gives you different kind of smell and sometimes we also put into papaya salad the fresh one we use in some time and many other ingredients also sometimes we round it up and put in LA and the bird eye chilli here they'll be fine here it's less spicy yes this is bigger but it's not as spicy this is for you guys that was not a smart idea the next one is it's of course that sourness is our we get from line and we also...
andy learns thai cooking techniques from a thai chef bon app tit
have cherry tomatoes this one is another important one temperature yeah it could be quite sour than suppose event I find it can be very sweet too how's the big bite it's actually a lot more sour than I thought it would be but this almost has like a sour apricot a flavor this one would be the bitter flavor right can you take me through this is eggplant this is

Thai

eggplant we put that in spicy Pepita salad and some of the soup and this one is roasted rice grain in a lot of men you roast it up and then we pound it it has a good deeply toasted oh I almost like I said smokiness to it that's really delicious and the last one this is actually from young grass or enticed by Anna it's very Irby subtle it's not tissue I mean it's definitely bitter but it's not too much ginger in that sense so I guess the last part and fresh herbs and aromatics that are used I know you have a few right next to yes the first one is by macro and lemongrass of course and pear Lanka mmm it's so different tasting than just raw versus good it's very intense it tastes like I'm eating pine leaves pine and citrus and it's really in your face and quite a bit of bitterness and I know you guys call this deal but we call lowchen custard and that's because Laos is very close to Isan yes I guess like there's a few different tools that are used in the my kitchen in the Sun region I know one of them for sure and that's over there that's the Volta and pestle...
crock and slap and that's what you used to make that sometime correct is there any other kind of like

cooking

equipment that you would say like things that you've seen a regular kitchen light in your walk deep fries and stove but right now everybody use fork and spoon okay a lot of people misunderstood about chopsticks we don't really use some

Thai

cuisine sometimes we use it if you eat no those subscripts you use the fork to push the food into the spoon and then you take the spoon into your mouth okay I guess I know we went and tried a bunch of different flavors I guess what are the dishes were gonna be making today suppose I taught the gang of guys thump oh god ah laughing and Sonoma and also we are going to make some sticky rice I would say originally assign has Canio a lot you know because these are people mostly they are farmer so they go into the rice paddy and they work whole day so if you have cameo with you it stay longer okay so that does three out of six I feel comfortable good okay so I'm here in the kitchen at some times where I'm here with

Chef

Jim first dish that we're doing is it fried chicken kragnes this is like one of the most popular dishes on the menu and you guys have bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and is this like very spicy that's better or not you know I said I'm not conspire I see there's ice so you put ice in with the marinade yeah we marinate so you make the batter really really cold so that when it goes into the...
the hot oil I gets really crispy and crunchy all over yeah okay all right I haven't seen that I've seen like cold water or cold sell sir but I've never seen me like I used to do that and how hot is the oil 350 350 and that he gets crispy really quickly okay now it's going back into the hot oil this smells so good okay we're gonna how do you cut it you cut it crosswise oh through the bone everything the board inside yes career okay so I see that you're using a cleaver there cut the chicken is the cleaver kind of the knife you see most often is eyeliner not so much in

Thai

land we you the two or three PI of the this one be used for the shop we use chip knife yeah yeah and what's the third one a small parent okay alright one two three yes right okay so what is this this is the food fry golly these Rockets rice and what's that Pizza chili powder tamarind juice and lemon so it's sweet salty spicy sour yeah that feels like what is bright and that's the calendar coriander so our fried chicken is done I'm gonna take a piece just by itself first mm-hmm it's so crunchy just the texture is so satisfying I mean I think it's perfect on its own but I'm very curious about the sauce it's supposed to compliment each other I thought it might taste a little bit more funky and salty and spicy but it's actually quite sour it's it's spicy and sour I'm gonna steal the technique of putting ice painted with the with the batter...
it makes so much sense so we have the sticky rice going and notes on the stove how long does it usually take for the rice to cook printing we need 20 million 30 million so we have the rice it's almost done the coconut milk here it's for the rice correct yeah and you mentioned there salt and sugar here yeah so just regular white sugar right no neither salt oh that's salt yeah it's so sticky feels right but and you move it around just to kind of bring the temperature down yeah are we gonna make little sticky rice they have to put that coconut meal you do all of it no it definitely takes on a more of almost paste like texture minute Cole we're gonna make ladies okay so you former into these laws yeah it's become a lot more sticky and when you bite into it you almost can make out any of the grains my main goal with sticky rice mingle I was gonna say this is what you need mango sticky rice so we are gonna grilled the coconut sticky rice hmm what's next for this you're gonna prepare to eight so you dip it in the eggs yeah so it's eggs and what else and seasoning so this is a

Thai

soy sauce yeah it's kind of like a lighter version Simula this is just gonna get dipped it all over your constant kind of turning it making sure it's not too brown all over it only takes a few minutes right okay and then this would like go with your some Tom or with your Fried Chicken next ish is getting em home game own Kai so this is soup from the Sun region so...
what's this right now water just water what the Emily slow little bit okay so these are chicken thighs that are cut and so you're gonna add that to the water yeah so the water is coming to a simmer what's this this gonna we have the roasted rice lemon glass the angrily red red onion okay this smells sure and then you're adding some

Thai

chilies yeah and then we read for a few second we gonna put with a bow the type I just wanted he cut into wedges that's gonna take the longest to cook and then he's gonna add a few more other kind of seasonings and flavorings gonna put the boat so at this point the vegetables are

cooking

what's after this this is done yeah it's done itself is quite pungent like on the nose mhm but I'm curious to take this doesn't see how its kind of different from when we first tried it but I know we have one more dish in the kitchen to cook before we make this sometime and that's a lot right yeah so what kind of lop are we making today oh we've make a duck love black pit lark lark that so water brown duck meat and so you let this go until the water is so this does it fried duck skin we're going to use how you throw it in okay I laid it on the pump and later on the top onion coriander cilantro I love that coriander and scallion freshly lime juice yeah this dish has the touches on salty sweet spicy sour bitter it touches all those flavors you would eat it with with the sticky rice right we call more crispy...
crispy garlic and then leave the fry lamb meat that's beautiful you seal up all over

Thai

land but this one is very typical of the eastern region so you would also eat everything the tummy oh I love them mount of textures and how fresh it is how spicy you can be the technique of just adding a little bit of water that

chef

jim was doing then adding the chopped duck and then

cooking

it until the water has evaporated and then combining with a lot of the red roses it rice like it does so much not just for the flavor but texture because it almost adds like a bit of crunch to the whole dish did you know what lab actually mean amidst good and then we have another version of the county out but this is called County County how to you so this is something that you would just see it and you eat on its own or with other dishes I would prefer to eat with something or you know something spicy would you ever eat this with something sweet yeah you can can even eat with the fried chicken mmm I find it very very different from obviously the regular county oh the grains have really kind of almost become like a paste like you get the coconut and you kind of get the whiff of the egg on the on the nose and just that very thin layer of egg on the outside creates this kind of Lacey shell that in cases the rice this one when I saw it being made I was didn't know what where was going is there anything in Isan or

Thai

food that you really don't like I don't think so really you're not...
a picky eater no I could eat everything it has like a deep deep richness but there's a sweetness to it as well it's a lot more delicate than I thought it would be that is amazing it's so delicious but I love it it's it's like a perfect snack okay so now I guess we could leave the kid sir we're gonna head make a few kind of kind of salads of the eastern region yeah okay great let's check it out you're making the some Tom this I know there's a lot of different sometimes in

Thai

land this one is with field crabs what is it called in

Thai

thumpa thumpa butter okay great can you walk me through the ingredients the first thing I don't have just half yeah not even a whole two chilies for a medium spicy and then we be punch like nothing inside machine Lee is coming to bite your eyes before we kind of put sure and this is just the kind of tone down the heat from the chilies and add some sweetness to the salad punished yeah we're going to put the tomato and the next one tiny plant a little bit punch now the whole thing with the whole thing it's very hard to do it when you're right-handed make me look bad this is the fermented fish sauce yeah right now it's everything's kind of looking like saucy so I think it's kind of like you're crushing everything you're extracting all the oils and flavors from the chilies the garlic you're breaking things down to release the oils or juices they're water so that...
everything kind of comes together and so it's not just singular done okay so the next dish is the soup normai which is not a soup it's a vegetable dish and it's a cold dish I've never had this before so I'm very curious this is the so I'm gonna stop you you gotta take a look at this the seats are getting crushed and almost becoming like a paste like so a little bit of white sugar a little brown sugar why do you use two sugars and what not one is brown sugar and we need a smell and color from there and why sugar is more sweet so really breaking it down to like a paste really if I have red onion red onion Korean mint mint this is the bamboo yeah shoots romantic tweets log I'm so into this dish by the way oh and some chili that's a lot thank you so much that was a lot of fun so this is the some time and you mentioned we should probably eat it with some County out the sticky rice and this is just the plain County yeah this is not the coconut one this is the food that I kind of crave because I didn't grow up with it and it's what I kind of always been wanting and yearning so this is very very satisfying and it's very different from kind of the typical sometime that I've had or just the addition of the field crabs and the fish sauce that has a viscosity and it's thicker and just a lot more complex I feel like it goes a long way I just want to eat this it's so intense right so this one I've certainly never tasted before...
I've never seen before super mine is also very very typical of the region very very typical of Isan food when you think absolutely Nam I'd the first flavor that comes into your mind is salt salty salty it still has a good amount of heat but you do get the salt in the very beginning because you get the two different for sauces I love bamboo shoots it's like that wonderful kind of texture that's a little bit stringy almost I'm actually not for a little bit more it's also kind of cooling you know it's spicy but the bamboo itself feels like it's very kind of it's it's calming in your mouth you sound people you know they find ingredient like in the back of the house like mega yacht so this is one of the ingredient that they always find if you cannot find a green papaya then you use you know you make this dish I wanna thank you company

chef

Jim sometimes or the eastern region has a special place in my heart so I hope everybody kind of will see it and fall in love with this food and thank you thank you I just left some thunder I was great to meet supa knee and

chef

Jim I well going in I definitely did have like a good sense of what I was getting myself into flavor wise and the different ingredients it was still great to kind of try each ingredient so I think I think I'm gonna make the fried chicken and I think one of the salads I don't know which one but definitely one of the salads I would like to also just kind of play with the croc...
again and try to get my technique down which is kind of sad after me honest and very comfortable with a mortar and pestle but the a time one is like a whole other beast hey guys I'm back in the Test Kitchen I'm gonna be making dishes from som tum dura and today I have with me a meal a full meal just a snack hi have you been to some tumblr I have not been to some time Wow but now I get to eat I get to here yeah Tom Tom dear does a food from the eastern region or theis northeastern

Thai

land and I'm gonna take you through a few of the Claver profiles that make up that cuisine and then we're gonna cook a few dishes great I'm gonna recruit you so the first bit is a sweet profile that you get from regular white granulated sugar the brown sugar and then these are fermented fuel crabs okay get in there this week a little sweet right like c

andy

it is really straight really sweet and then next is that kind of doesn't salty salt profile where which comes from fish sauce two different types and this is the unfiltered super cloudy I know wakes you up it's so good you know what it reminds me of it's like when you buy a tin of anchovies the kind of like sludge at the bottom you know like around the side edges - yeah now we're moving on to spicy Birds Eye chili and then this is just the dried pulverized you can see the Caesar in there sorry I'm healed snorted some watch some chili flakes good oh yeah it'll get me good so going on sour you have just...
fresh limes tomatoes can be very acidic are very acidic and so sorry it's still in there and then over here you have there Tamron the last one is the bitter flavor which you get from the

Thai

eggplants which you use just raw just sliced up thin no Raya has almost seven there's like a little bit but spiciness to it like a nightshade ease right yeah so this is young grass juice that's coming from here at Cinna can it's called the it's it's a leaf by Jung Nang extract a little more subtle a little too sweet definitely has that bitterness towards the end a little bit like wind from the bottom of the popcorn watching movies at home first dish from making just to get things going is their fried chicken there's this so perfect the batter is aromatic wise it's lemongrass cilantro root and I've crushed black peppercorns like a little over a tablespoon red curry paste I'm gonna add two tablespoons and then six cloves of garlic okay I'm gonna add tempura flour with your sauce I think it will need a little bit of salt as well okay so clearly it's a very very thick a chicken what they do is they'll use bone-in skin-on they'll separate the meat from the bone Oh Jess so it can cook really nice and evenly and I add the chicken straight on while the chickens marinating we're gonna make the sauce the sauce I mean chicken itself should be spicy okay but the sauce I think is definitely has a higher level of you I'm gonna go with...
like half dried chilies we have toast rice powder and then a little bit of fresh lemon juice and then fish sauce yeah it's great the chicken that's some gut sounds about right so the ice has definitely melted not completely but what's spitting it out I mean the batter dip this one by one do you always do that when you're putting things in the fryer the moving back and forth I think I do I have a habit of doing that I also saw him do this at the restaurant to do a little dance yeah sway sway sway sway beautiful relaxing saying crazy people chocolatey mary-kate and Ashley what lets me I'm like what color are you looking for you went a little bit darker than this Wow let's drop this and how long are they prying on this I was go another like minute doesn't this look good warm Bofill herbs you love a mortar you love a pestle I do I love a more than a pestle this is one of my many mordrem pestles that I actually bought from

Thai

land Oh what yeah it's called a crock and they'll make some time here but they'll also use the crock to assemble all the types of dishes and one of them that we're doing is the soup normai which is a bamboo kind of special it's actually the spiciest dish we're making today in this case we're gonna make this sauce first before we add the bamboo shoots twisting sesame seeds I mean I've had about half of this okay so I'm gonna just bring this up a little bit I'm gonna add the chilli add the...
young green juice 2 tablespoons now it's trying to form into like a real paste I'm add a little bit of sugar I'm gonna add half a small shallot to it the cilantro and some mint leaves I feel like this is where you switch from using just the pestle and you use the pestle and the spoon gotcha so you're compressing it slightly then lifting compressing then lifting fish sauce just brighten things up whoo oh look at you we're getting all cute with it the final dish is gonna be a sometime a papaya salad my namesake dish well the specific sometime because there's so many different types of papaya this is called a tongue and putana it's a this is the one with the field crabs I'm gonna start off with just one clove give it a smash I'm gonna do two chillies we're gonna pound that pretty coarse like this I'm gonna add some sugar and then I'm gonna add a few tomatoes cool that's adding a little bit of juiciness to that equation you're done with your dry ingredients a piece of lime I'll squeeze that we're gonna add the tight plant this is just one long bean green papaya can you do anything with the seeds I would imagine like same as papaya see it's like they're edible what did that taste like something very familiar I'm very familiar it's not kinder it's not peppercorn driving crazy I know it's so familiar is it an herb what is it it's so familiar Gaby please come here see well yes it's pricey...
but what does it taste like way I know these I know right I know juniper berries Chris Chris Chris Chris what is this tastes like cyanide it manages to be like both like a metallic bitter and sour all the same time a little bit Miyabi yep yeah like a custardy it reminds me a lot of like a like like like mustard greens oh yeah yeah yeah oh yeah way too that can be kind of sharp and yeah yeah I do think it maybe it's poisonous and I just have even a little grass I don't know can we look up if it's like okay to eat so just move on let's just if we encase you to go I'm gonna add the fill crap as well so we are trying all the dishes we did get the other chicken knurl or with Molly really can use this okay so we're gonna get into all these dishes we did get into the chicken because Molly did we ever did we ever anyways so where do you want to start uh reference so how do you how do you like to approach the the crab I like take a bite I'll take a bite of the papaya and then I'll grab like a claw suck on the claw I mean really taste of crab you do the crab almost has like a sweetness that that tames everything else they it's there though mm-hmm you get it on your lips yeah my Belgian about mmm the eggplant is really the big take away from you it's kind of refreshing when you get it by the house like a super aromatic quality NIM how much is it without the sauce yeah that batter is so flavorful chicken so juicy the garlic is my favorite I love...
that sauce and I love the way that pick him duck I didn't attack the toasted rice I love that texture you like I've not tasted anything like cuz I got that shreddy ropey kind of quality to it it really does remind me of like jackfruit or something like that it's really creeping I've stopped eating yeah thank you a meal thank you so much for showing me all this food thank you for having me on so coming back and testing those recipes out there's things I would love to kind of try again to really understand the movement with the spoon using the crow properly but then also like nailing the ratio of like the ice the batter for the fried chicken trying to find that kind of right balance for each dish I think like I would love to kind of keep going in a little bit deeper but it also just has given me like a deeper love for he son food and just

Thai

land in general like I've always loved the food from there there's plenty to kind of absorb and keep going with it hope you guys learned something