Algae, Lichen, Moss and badly faded paint. Bringing a nakered car back from the brink

Welcome

back

to the Detail Friends channel, so in this video we are trying to recover an old, worn out car from the brief. This guy, yeah, could he, this one was pretty dirty. It's a challenge, but a lot of fun, we've overcome it all. the problems we faced with this car and there are quite a few of them, what we were trying to achieve and how we did it, well guys welcome

back

to the channel, it's a pleasure to watch you, so what are we doing in this video? 55 play Suzuki Aalto ultra or something like that live, I don't know.

I think that's what it was, it belongs to my next door neighbor. I've always seen it going up and down and it was in bad shape so I offered to try to fix it. or make it look a little better for him, so that's what we're doing in this video. Now the car in question was in pretty bad shape, pretty bad shape, almost as bad as it is, it's single stage red

paint

that has

faded

. Too pink and almost white like a chalky appearance on the surface due to years of oxidation and heavily rusted

paint

. The car was quite dirty.

He was one of those who are in the stage where he has growth. Instead of just dirt, the biggest problem is that there is a lot of

algae

on that green mold on the surface of the car and it wasn't smooth, it was quite toney and brittle, but also little leach spots that I normally think of as. I heard that because this type of white growth that you usually see on concrete and it was very hard, it was very brittle and it got embedded in the paint, it was very difficult to remove. What else is there corrosion on the car that can't be fixed with details?

The window seals are corroded so we are just trying to stop the corrosion a little and preserve it as best we can. They need to be replaced in the same way as the rear wiper on your car that has rotted and needs to be replaced. replaced other than that it was damage to the alloy wheel one of the alloy wheel caps which would also need to be replaced and probably worth replacing the interior the car was covered in some sort of dog hair which is always it's fun so we had to take out everything we could or vacuum and there was a lot of dust and dirt in the car so that was the problem we faced with the proverbial "us or me" we thought it would be a lot of fun just see it What you could do with this car, the challenge is always okay, also in this video, is to do all this really in one day and most of the time, the best investment in time meant that the more time I could spend on the paint . polishing it was going to benefit the car, so let's go ahead and go over what we did in this particular video and show you some of the pictures, so first the interior of the car was all Hoover Dale.

I even vacuumed the engine bay because there was a lot of dirt and debris soaking it in a pressure washer, it would just throw a lot of mud and

moss

and stuff deeper into the engine bay in places like that side, actually, would you? Who would take out the engine compartment first and only me? I think I went straight to the new thing with very concentrated pure kammath hip degreaser just to get the engine bay in better shape and make it look half decent after that we vacuumed the whole interior and literally ran the car over like as fast as I could , mainly with a brush on the Hoover to tease and rake out as much dog hair as I could.

The carpets in this Suzuki were very thin, they are like the type of blankets they give you in prison. or blurry, but when you are Hoover on the rugs, you know which ones are the right rugs, not the mats, they will move and stay there, so it wasn't easy to get the whole dog out of there, but as I say it was all a matter of support time, which probably took less than an hour inside the car, you know, with your finger in the wind, 70 to 80 percent of the dog hair, the trunk was in pretty bad shape, and Great part of the back seat lining just disintegrated and tore, so you know the right thing to do would be to get some fabric to replace it and maybe drill a hole in it or something.

There was no time for any of that, so I just gave him hope that the Hoover would start quickly, we'd get the trunk out quickly, and while I was vacuuming all the carpets and stuff, he just hit me with that Turtle Wax foam sprayer he was on. talking to deodorize in there, Danny did a good job deodorizing, there was actually a bulk air smell in there and stuff like that, but it smelled good. I cleaned everything that was in there, a lot of APC degreaser and all that kind of stuff and we got the interior half decent after that we moved on. outwards, now the first thing I wanted to do is soak this car, you know, in a powerful prewash, so out comes the hambar car wash built using it pretty much at full power, you know, 4% PIR is what they recommend that could have.

I've even been there and put a big thick coat of it on the car and used over 500mil and kept layering it and it works really fast. This product doesn't need to be called alive, leave it there, it's so cute. 10 minutes so it still has effects so you can give it, you know, give it a few minutes and then take off, it wasn't very hot so I didn't have to worry about dry drawing and that's actually while I'm blowing up this particular one. Pre-wash the room with single stage paint that's on this car, there's less risk of getting little bits of clear coat that are kind of like chips from the Stein rocks that get under that kind of clear lift on stuff like that so I found myself using the pressure washer a lot closer than I normally would to literally try to get some of the

algae

and that contamination out of the car during the prewash process and at the same time it was so much buildup of dirt in this car which caused all the trouble. clean the toothbrush was the ideal brush to get into all those seals that were covered in mud and a nail here really cleans the d3 main sir the main degreaser I would use for all of this is coach Kenny Green Star Attain On the one hand, it is Well, it's a powerful thing, but it's friendly enough to use an outside lock.

They're really good degreasing products, so that was doing most of the work for me, same with him on the fuel cap cover area that was. it was dirty and covered it in grime, but these things just broke it up very easily with the hulk airbrush, so that was the prewash and then we moved on to the contact bucket type of wash, if you want, now with this particular car over there. There was no point in taking a safe washing approach. Okay, we were dealing with car paint jobs that we'll be cutting a lot and paint jobs with very thick contamination that

lichen

s are stuck in there, so I wanted the most aggressive contact wash method I could.

I think about where it could really get into the paint, so we used McGuire's, we put some of this stuff a little closer, so we used Maguire's or more abrasive wash shampoo with a standard 1 pound bulk sponge, which I know is a Detailing faux pas, but it would have been absolutely pointless to use a nice, soft lambswool glove and try to manipulate and refine the paint, it's absolutely pointless because we're going to cut like a hole in that paint job later, so we went in. aggressively using the sponge to generate a lot of abrasion and work the abrasive qualities of the shampoo and we tried to rub all the things that were on the surface, even Maguire's plus wash with the shampoo did not displace those

lichen

stains. or whatever they are mold, whatever that white plant was growing embedded in the paint, we sent the top part but it was slightly anchored, but it did a good job and I was able to scrub the glass. at the same time, we really cleaned all of that and got all of those panels as clean as possible for a contact wash.

The next stage after the contact wash was to go in and do a decontamination now again with the most thorough method in my opinion. Let's explore this a little more on the chair you will be contaminating. I think it's using a very aggressive clay bar. I just feel like all the pressure is on one little spot and it's very abrasive and you really rub it off. and I think it's the most aggressive method, but I want to do it if any extra minutes I spent doing other work meant less time machine polishing, so I used the clay cloth wherever I'm there drawing and I used it with quite a bit of pressure, without lubricant . or something, I'm really just trying to save time whenever I can, so I flew over the car with the clay cloth using a very aggressive method, more pressure than you would normally use and it took a lot of pressure to clean that bitch off, but I can remove it with the clay cloth slowly but surely so it works well, we decontaminated with the clay, we didn't do any Deacon chemical decontamination because of how aggressive I was with the clay and because of the time factor once the car was decontaminated I also noticed a couple of paint splotches and it looked like some kind of bright white paint, not painted like automotive, dropped on the car, so I didn't want to waste time and start poking with the least aggressive method first.

I used a point. cellulose thinner on a microfiber and it just removed the paint and it didn't cause any damage, no red came off, just the appearance affected the glossy solvent based paint on the surface if you like so it was effective what else there is? To say about the car, I mentioned before that the window panel trim was rotted, as well as the rear wiper, which can't be fixed, but we sanded those down later because all the rubber paints were peeling and all that sort of thing. . of things, we sanded some of the surface rust just to control it and then covered it with pure rust.

I was half tempted to remove those seals, flatten them all again, completely etch the primer from the pure ostomy priming room, and then set up the stone nave. painting on the front sounds nice and simple, but it would have meant removing the door cards and all that kind of stuff and it ended up taking me about four hours, I think just to get the Pretlow, he's ready to paint them. Not even thinking about spraying some stone puts you on top, masking and all that kind of stuff, it just looked like a botch because it would have moved, you really need to replace those seals, but for the purpose of this video, we sanded them down. and I simply treated them with a rustier product to stop the rust from spreading.

I guess it's for the best, so where are we with this? We have done the decontamination and now we are going to move on to oh yes, yes, now we are going to move on to Polishing Phase, as you can see, I have prepared very, very thoroughly for this video, so let's talk next about the polishing of the work single stage painting. I want to move on to the paint type and figure out the paint, what we need to do. Firstly, we are dealing with single stage paint or gloss paint as it is sometimes called, so there is no layer of clear coat between you and the paint.

You are literally cutting into the paint when you do this type of work, sometimes you work with single stage paint. it's really nice sometimes it's horrible sometimes it can be very sticky you're removing a lot more product than when you cut the clear coat and that means you have to maintain your pads a little more carefully, it creates hell There's a lot of mess, especially when you use red or any color, but red is always nice, right? You know that red goes everywhere, on the pads and on all the cloths that you are cleaning with the product.

That's why I've used the cheap Peregrine 7030 type of soft cloths because it will ruin them with a wet tint that won't come out, so I don't want to use premium cloths on this particular car which we're not chasing perfection with either. We'll talk about this particular car a little later. We will be using rotary polishers so the mini flex PE 8-4 is a fantastic little rotary and I finally invested in the flexp 14 dash at 150 for compact size. rotary, which is only dual track because the weight difference between even the compact flex and the full size flex is minimal and in my opinion it's much easier to lift and control that height, so those were the machines that we used the abrasives that We are using the new Auto Bloom Rapid Renovator Plus, which is a heavy cutting compound.

Now you often hear the least aggressive method detailed. First you know what the default rule of thumb may be. It's a good concept, but the level of oxidation on this one. car and the deadlines involved, you know I'm starring in an aggressive product, that's basically where I'm going with this quick renovator and it's also a very heavy cutting compound, you know you could do a major correction with this stuff, but it's also a high finish shiny, good enough finish for the particular car I'm using, if you want to give the finish more shine after the quick refinish, alsoYou can use your standard total quick renovator afterwards and refine the paint if you liked this particular product.

What do I think of this? It is an absolutely idiotic test. This thing, guys, is thick and not prepared to fit even if you use a little more when you're measuring your spots. If you get a drop that's a little too big, it's not prone to. The sling is definitely not prone to dust, you can work it really hard and get most of the cut right from the start, you may feel it's a little stiffer as you initially work it on the panel and then it will start to get thin and break down, so which is easy to measure once it starts to break down, you are losing the heavy cut, you are going to make a more refined cut that will bring out the shine, so what Auto Glim advises you is that you can start at lower speeds, You know, yeah, I really should read the instructions, right?

No, I think it's somewhere between eight hundred and nine hundred while it's in the heavy cover phase on the press, no, it's like a book, it's got layers here, so let's see. what they say about speeds of 600 to 800 at first, low speeds, then they pass over the air in a horizontal motion, gradually increasing speeds up to 1,500 to 1,800, which is faster than what I was using, but you will like it, I say You see the products start to break down to dilute a little and that's when you can start to increase the speed to increase the shine.

Very easy things to use. This guy says there is no sling or dust, which is important to me on the road tree. because if dust is going to form, dust will form on the rotor, right? They are renewed, they are renewed quickly and you also have the rapid refresher that you could use to refine the heavy cutting compound or you could use it alone. If you don't need all that extra, cut the quick renewer. What I learned from using it for this short period of time is to use less product in my opinion and not over work it, and they advise you to do so.

Use it on your white pad, which is a thicker pad if you use this on a soft black pad, which I was tempted to do because I used it on my own in a test spot after using the renewer, the white man but with the black. The pad can slide off the pad and leave product lines that are difficult to clean. If you use the white pad, you just rub it a little harder so you don't get that, so that was one thing, but I noticed with the quick renewer, the renewer plus is absolutely idiot proof, like I said, so it's a really solid heavy tin compound and I'd like to do all the forensic analysis and test it, you know, in pound test and things like that at a later date, so we'll do it in terms of one-shot paint work. stage, the biggest problem we had here was that we have a very noticeable layer of some kind of rust And, now normally with a car that is as bad as it should be.

It was like an orange-red lipstick that you could see on the inside of doors where the sun wasn't there, usually when your paint is that bad, to get that paint back, you're probably going to have to do it right, almost definitely, repeatedly. polishing sets, so you're going to be looking to cut with the first set, look at the finish and see the true paint underneath and you'll probably see that I did a lot of flaws and things that I was able to seal, where those lychee spots were. and embedded in the paint I can see scratches.

I got to see horrible things and the problem was that you really want to do it again and if I do it again you know I'll have to do it again and then polish everything up and be done. I could have easily spent at least three days trying to make the paint on this car look as good as possible, but that wasn't really an option, so there are serious limitations with just doing one paint kit and that's so bad. that you won't be able to get results like you could if you did a ton of kits, but I think that's logical anyway, what do we think about the single stage paint job when you have that much oxidation? notice when you're doing a polishing set when it's not consistent so say for example you know when we're starting out we usually do our cross patch type Hatton cross patch pattern crosshatch pattern on a panel because it basically means that you work that small square with a reasonably consistent amount of polish over the entire square over the target area when you're working on very rusty paint that you're turning to a nice color, the areas where it's not consistent you'll see the difference so it really reminded me of the importance to be consistent when polishing, but he also told me that no matter what I did with this car, one kit would never make the whole car look amazing, like I say.

The value of the car is less than the machines I'm using to polish it, so that puts it into perspective a bit. Anyway, we made our way around this car. Some parts were to make the hardest part, I really had to use it. I positioned the pads quite a bit with this to really get into the kind of edges because if I just used bigger pads and tried to do this very, very quickly, it would have shown up on the edges where I wouldn't have been able to hit as well. and there would have been a big color difference, it just wouldn't have worked and that also slowed me down quite a bit unfortunately, and if I had wanted to polish the whole car in five hours it would have really compromised the results, but it still would have taken a little care I guess anyway we worked our way around the car, polished this completely and after we polished it I just wiped off the polish.

I didn't use any degreaser because the polishing oil was also something like that. Feed the feeds the right word, but they do something if you never touch the rusty heavenly paint, greasy fingers. I have nice greasy hands, just touch them with your fingers, leave them there for about five seconds, take them off. I'll see where your fingertips were, the white is gone and it's red again and it's like some kind of grease on the surface or something. I don't know what it's doing but anyway that will go away again, the rust comes back. but I wanted to leave all the polish holes in the paint, just clean them up so once I ruled out applying a sealer or a ceramic, I would never apply a ceramic to this car in the air, it would have just been a dog. dinner so we put a paste wax on it which is a nice easy product to blend and you also know you'll see that it will sit on top of all those polished minerals without me without any problem and the net result was once we did all the We polished the car and took it out of the garage.

The car looked really good. Actually, what were the biggest positives: We converted a car that was on the

brink

and at the point where it couldn't be sold and it's for the junkyard, it looked so bad. Even mechanically the car was fine, it's not even a high mileage car but it looked so bad it's just horrible and now when you look at the car it looks orangey red, nice and shiny, what do I feel? Why do I mention this well? It wasn't perfect guys, walking through it after cutting off that layer of rust, the amount of damage, scratches and defects that lag behind.

I thought, oh, and part of me wants to break away, likes to work on it and make the P actually work. cute, but I'm not. I'm just doing this as a favor for my next door neighbor, so there was only a limited amount of time to put it on, as well as one word: defects left in the paint, some of them could have come off, it wasn't the clarity of the color, it wasn't that it wasn't turning red like it should have been in all the areas where it's a little more foggy and it needed to get going again, so that's just the nature of I'm not sure I could have done better without testing the aggressiveness and I was working at fast machine speeds as I'm comfortable doing it, it really is what it is, the car looks great compared to how it looked. but it's far from a show car and never really will be.

It was another issue with a section of the car, but the passenger door had been repainted and whoever repainted it decided they would use a clear coat on that particular section and try. and they mixed it up so they couldn't know what they were doing because they wouldn't, they wouldn't use clear coat on us on a car that doesn't have it in the first place, so it was a really bad clear coat repair that failed on the center section, failed in small spots around that are leaving, see if they tried to blend it. I can even see scratch marks from a dual action polisher where I've tried to polish the type of areas at the end, in short there's nothing I can do about it.

Polishing it, polishing it, is not going to help because there are a lot of dirty clear coats in the center section, the polish just gets stuck on the little bits of missing clear coat, so really with that you have to remove the clear coat or remove all the clear coat and then you'll have a horrible matte finish and that's just a can of worms or painting that particular part of Marie which is really the only way to do it properly so in this case I just left it because there's nothing to them details they can do with that particular part, in almost the same sense. the trim panels we sanded and just flattened and then just treated the rust, there is no way to fix them.

I could have spent, you know, half a day trying to get those damn things out of the car, you know, take the door cards. take them off, take them out, figure out how they come out, the car, sand them all down and you know, rust the match tune, first of them and their first spray with stone boat paint and I thought about doing it, but it would just be like that. stupid if it took that long and it really is a no brainer, you would replace those pieces of trim if you can still get the parts which could be something else but it's not really economical to save time for me just tinkering with a car to try to fix things like that , so it moved, there's no two ways around it, but hopefully it will stop the rust from spreading a little bit and it looks a little bad and you see all that peeling orange rust. the paint removed is less noticeable to the eye so that's what it is other than that guys overall pretty pleased with the results in this case the biggest disappointment for me is that I'm working every time I work on a section. of the car and then, yeah, you know you're cleaning up after and seeing it so many times that it needed another pass, at least one more route, if not two more passes, now you know what you do and what you say about this because The bottom line for me is that you don't I was prepared to spend more time getting it right because of what it was.

I guess this must be something similar for people who get paid to do this because I think even a profession will have a hard time making that car look amazing, just being able to fly in one day will be a struggle, there will be serious limitations, so I think that's part of the deal with all of this, the reality is that time is the most important thing you need, especially me. but this is probably the first time that time was a factor for me and I just wasn't prepared to make various types of adjustments to this car, but the end result is a lot of defects that can't really be changed in the paint.

Look when it's outside so when you write light on it there are still these kind of similar scratch marks and indentations and I'm not even sure I can correct them. They were pretty bad and pretty deep. but also getting the color clarity to be the same throughout the car, something that was impossible to do with so much rust within one set, but that's the reality of it all, rather than just not telling you about it, I think it's kind of It's interesting to talk about all these things, but from the point of view of a simple layman, the car looks much better and looks very good, so in some aspects I am satisfied, but apart from the exterior and interior , I could have spent more time trying.

To get more dog hair, I got a separate brush and picked up more of it, I just didn't have time, but overall the inside looked pretty decent, it smelled good, so what have we done? We have fully accelerated. the car and I did everything I could do in one day and I enjoyed it, but it's been a lot of work, it's created a huge mess and I'm going to finish this video now and start doing it. tidy up, clean up, get everything nice and clean, how was everything, what's coming on the channel, guys, well, as I may have mentioned other videos, I have boxes and boxes of pads and I've been blowing up pads to try.

If you want to do a full scale review of the pad and give us recommendations on the fonepad, which might be a difficult video to do, but that's okay, I'm doing it mainly also because I'm interested in all this stuff and it's an opportunity for me to explore this room with the channel we also have after that we will have a best style shootout video about car shampoos and snow phones coming soon as soon as I can finish them and in the meantime there are many other videos that are also posted in the timeintermediate or out of sequence and things like that you can see when I took them from where the baby is, so that's it for this one guys, thanks.

Thank you very much for watching, I hope you enjoyed the video, please like and subscribe if you liked it and as I mentioned in other videos, we are also into forensic details on Instagram, if you like using Instagram, that's it for this one. See you in the next video guys, bye for now.