92-95 Civic D15b7 To B20B Engine Swap

What's going on? Welcome back to the channel today. We have the zg ready to work. Originally I wasn't going to record this process. It's just another customer's car coming in for a quick change. You can see it here on the things here on the table and uh, I didn't want to show another repetitive video. I know the last few videos or probably a hundred videos before this one has been showing me ripping cars apart. My car. Tucker's car. The Parkour car. Joe's car. car and I know you guys wanted to see racing in Mexico or some type of racing a little different than the current videos, but we just haven't been able to go racing, the race tracks are still closed and I know the road racing tracks are still open, but I don't have a car to do that, so I've been here in the garage working hard, but soon guys we'll have some races on the canal, but I'm really excited to start working on this.

Again I was supposed to start working on it today but I have this car here so I'm just going to knock it out quickly and then we'll continue progressing on the krx so I thought you know what, I'm going to turn this into a video. this is more like uh what you're going to need to put a b

swap

in your eg and eg in this case because that's what we have here so anything 92 95 uh to put a b in your car, I'm going to try cover Everything, I'm not going to show you the whole process, how to pull the motor and now change the other wind.

I'm just going to talk about the parts list and along the way show you some of the things you need to pay attention to. Right now I'm going to take everything out of the car, so this

engine

bay is completely stock, the

engine

is completely stock, I think this is a dx model because d15 b7 is not vtec, there are no accessories like power steering, air conditioning and all that jazz is in the All the extra stuff you have to take out, this will be very simple now, like I said, I'm not going to show you the process of removing all this from the engine bay, but we're going to talk about everything What we are going to need to change the B series for an EG, so the engine chosen here is a JDM B20B.

Now there are two models for this engine: the low competition and the high competition, this is the 98 spec. You can see it by the head stamp right here, it says 98 on that first mark, 98 and this is the low model. compression, the high compression is 992,000 and then there is the p8r version which has a better flowing head, but in this case this is a low compression one that was just purchased from a local importer and there are a lot of accessories that we had to remove from this engine and that we are not going to use, so one of the first things that I had to remove from the b20 engine is the intake manifold, we are not going to use this because it is going to stick out from the hood given how tall it is, that's why they call it the boom manifold and I pretty much removed the body idea because we're I'm not going to need this automatic fast idle fast arm valve or something like that and I also removed it so I can take all the bolts and studs for the other intake manifold as well. that we will not need this flexible plate.

It comes with all b20 engines from the import shop and this is for the automatic torque converter so we don't need to get all that out of the way and a lot of miscellaneous things here so the top half of the header won't need that. have an aftermarket one in there, remove the power steering pump and bracket because we are not going to need you to remove this post map because it is specifically for the CRV since the engine sits very low in the engine bay of the CRV. this mount is super tall to accommodate it and it won't work for regular

civic

or integral

swap

s because your engine will be hanging off various low mounts and things that we won't need so I removed all of that from this engine it's a 98 so we have this distributor that has something like the rpm cables, ignition input cable and all that.

I can convert this to obd-1 to work with that car so the distributor seems to work normally, they come with the other one which is like a single eight pin plug and you usually can't use it on a

civic

. I could be wrong. It usually comes with an alternator and, uh, it's obd2. You can purchase a jumper harness that converts to an obd1 alternator plug from your harness. to connect it to the ob2, in this case I'm just going to connect them and keep a small oven in there. I know it works. I've done it many times before so we don't have to get an alternator because I can use this one now before I brought the car here.

I gave him a checklist to make sure he can grab everything before I bring him here so I don't have to run around for a lot of little things. I am not worried. but the biggest items, the main key to this engine holding up here, he was able to bring me everything here on the table, so if you are buying an engine from an importer like the one beating here on the floor, I'm going to take you a little step step by step on what they need to change and what they need to install to get the engine ready for its new home, so by now you should know that this is going to be a more informative video, so there is We'll talk a lot and I hope you can learn a little of this.

I know they leave comments to let me know they learned a thing or two from watching some of the videos and that's always been the goal. with the channel, I'm saying, like you guys, something along the way, just hang out with me, so I'm going to go ahead and take out the engine and we'll start with the transmission clutch and the flying boat. so most

b20b

s from an import shop come automatic, you need to remove the flex plate properly and get a flywheel clutch pressure plate, usually a new clutch kit. In this case, we're doing a stage one competition right here, it comes with a driver.

The bearing here comes with a release bearing and the clutch alignment tool here as well before you put the flywheel on. This is the best time to change the rear main seal and in this case I don't have one but this is the correct one. here is the new bearing, im going to change it right now, i already took the old one out, used the new one, the old bearing and a hammer, once the pilot bearing has bottomed out the flywheel will be ready to install when you remove the flex plate , the automatic bolt is much shorter, okay, now it's very important to go through the manual wheel bolts, which are longer, if you use this type, it won't catch enough threads, uh, the vibration will probably pull the threads out, it gets lost.

All of these bolts can make a lot of noise, probably destroying everything in the transmission case and all the clutch components there, so be sure to use the longer manual flower bolts. It has a competition stage one clutch nothing aggressive it has springs so it's going to help the clutch pedal sit go ahead and clean this up real quick on the gsr flywheel it's going to have six plate bolt holes depression. I think the type r has like nine pressure plate bolts, 19 lbs, so the transmission is really up to you on what gear ratio options you want for your setup, I recommended the b20 with the b16 transmission as a swap starter for someone who wanted to change their car because the b20 has a lot of torque for the b16 transmission and a short gear ratio, so it is really Let's feel the torque of the b20 engine.

This is an em-1 transmission. Gear ratios b16. Stamp uh s4c and then attached a label that says el1. It is verified right here. The clutch kit comes with a release bearing, so let's change it, we're going to lubricate a little bit here and a little bit also we're going to need five of these suckers to put the transmission on the bottom pin, check one here, none there, um it's important to do Make sure you have your pins to make sure the transmission is working properly. In this case we only have one but one is better than them so one thing I forgot to ask is for a starter motor so I found a starter motor on my transmission and I'm going to vote here when they install their half shaft or their intermediate shaft, make sure you use the specific bolt for it, you have this little spacer here, make sure you have at least two of these correct. here to align your half shaft, um, because the last time we didn't use two of these, we shook the half shaft loose and then, uh, we took the holes out of it, so it was a pain to repair to try to get it done on time, but hmm , now we are.

Go two and if you don't have a third, use a bolt of the same length, 40 ml, and you should be fine. There's my third one, so for the B series there are two half shafts, there's the 1993 integra and then the integra 9401. The 9401 has the male end here for the driver's side and the 1993 has the female side for the passenger axle. They are pretty much the same, but make sure you get the correct driver's side axle per half axle and depending on which half axle you are using. make sure the transmission seal matches because it's different between the two so if you're using a 94 a oh make sure you get the 9401 seal if you're using 993 993 seals so this is a hydraulic transmission that has the seal correct. seal I'm sure and this is the 94 plus half shaft so go ahead and screw this into place.

I talked about the alternator. You can use the obd2 if you buy the jumper or you can connect it if you know the wiring diagram. you can find it on Google; otherwise if it's an obd1 harness it makes it easier if you had an open alternator. uh obd1 and ob20 are the same, the ob2 rounded plug is square, but at the end of the day, if you don't have a cable, that will work, so let's keep my hands clean for this one because we're going to install the intake manifold and not I want to get it dirty.

This intake manifold has a capped half shaft bolt for a coolant port now because the b20 comes with a boom intake manifold uh it's better to go for something like lower obviously so you can get ob1 94 plus integra ls b18 b1 intake manifold or you can get like a skunk 2 or a block setup and with that new intake manifold gasket all good, throttle body now because this is a new manifold and we're not running the draft we don't think about it , but he provided me with one here and before installing it. I'm going to put the bolts on what I did notice is that this is a 1993 obd obd0 integrated throttle body and the way to really tell it apart is that the obd2 and obd1 throttle body has a map sensor integrated into the throttle body.

You can see here, we just have. a tps and there is no map on top because the DA and EF have their map sensor in the firewall. This will work, but I will have to take the map sensor out of the vacuum line right here so the map sensor can work. I'm going to run it for now because this is what was provided. I don't have another throttle body and I have the right gasket to work with right here, so I'm just going to put that in there, everything else related to the intake manifold. It's an idle air control valve which is pretty self explanatory and I don't have fuel rail injectors which I don't have so if you're in this part of your install make sure you put all of that in now and usually the new intake manifold no.

I don't have the iat sensor, make sure you put one in there and that's pretty much for the intake manifold for the timing side. We were talking about pole support earlier. We're not using the CRV pole mount, which is a higher, um higher mount, right here. Well, you can see the difference much higher and that will cause the engine to be tilted on one of these cars, so it is very important to make sure you know what pulse mount you are using so that you can purchase the specific engine mount for the engine to your chassis uh in this case we have a three post DC mount, three posts means one, two, three, there are three mounting points here and you can see the kit is for 92.95 civic, this car is also interchangeable with 9401 integrates and says here The b and d series because they are interchangeable when it comes to the brackets and then the manual transmission hydraulic transmission usually these cars are hydraulically driven with the clutch so you want to make sure you buy the hydraulic transmission because you can't put a cable drive on this car you just have to buy a different specific bracket to put the slave clutch on the transmission of a cable drive but we are using a manual hydraulic because b16 em-1 trans with a drive side post mount three bolt driver, so I'll move on. and install this right here, right there, these three guys put the lower timing cover and the crankshaft pulley back on.

It may seem like I'm using an impact for everything, but I check it with a ratchet after this is the best time to change. Remove the water pump and timing belt tensioner. Makes life easier to do when the engine is out of the car. I don't have any of them so I'm not going to change it and here we go with the lower timing cover. Make sure the shim is here and facing the correct way, it's tapered and that's supposed to keep the belt from moving because the keyway slot is upside down. I'm going to go ahead and install the crank and then slide in the keyway.there and the crankshaft pulley bolt, I will definitely do it.

I also have this, another great thing to change while you do all this alternator belt. Also, a b20 doesn't have the PVC system on the back of the block, usually the black box found here that looks like this guy, because it actually comes out of the cylinder head here, so I'll move on and take this guy out, this collector already has a plug and that's his PVC system. When you change the B series to one for example you have to use the 94 t bracket for o1 integra this varies depending on the chassis also let's say if you are doing a b series and if you need the 90 93 t bracket for the geometry , uh for the em-1s or the ej6 or the 96 plus, you need the 99 2000 b16t brackets, so make sure you get the right one for your car, okay guys, so this is as far as I'm going to go tonight.

I think I have everything I could put on the alarm block. What I have available here and everything else is working. to be used on this engine, I'm pretty sure the idle air control valve can shift because it's a dual pattern shift linkage shifter setup. I'm about to change that guy's injectors, harness, everything that needs to be transferred here. before I put that on the card so I'm probably going to spend an hour getting this engine out right now it's like 10:30 and I'll catch up with you tomorrow once we get the engine out of the car alright guys so Catch up Next, obviously, I started very late.

I woke up really late because I slept too late, but we're making progress, so a couple of hours ago I pulled the engine. There is nothing there. The SIM camera is here and I already removed the motor. Without harness you can use the original engine harness on this one to plug into the B series engine as long as all the plugs like the distributor injector match or use a conversion harness to make everything work so on this case we are going to keep the same ob1 injector correctly so we don't have to modify the obd1 injectors, but we are using an obd2 distributor and I took a look at some plugs to make a jumper right there.

The same goes for the alternator if the use of obd1 must be plug and play you can use an obd2 you can buy the jumper or connect it like I did here according to the wiring diagram so the harness is 100 installed the sensor of o2 is installed and I mean it's pretty much ready to plug back in. I don't have a fuel rail yet, but my friend Paco has my original gsr manifold. I asked him if I could take a look at it to see if he had an original GSR fuel rail, but he doesn't bother me.

Now, because once the engine is in the car, I mean, I can work on this from the top, it's no big deal, as far as everything that connects to the engine being installed, we have the new slave clutch, uh, boot manifold, everything under the manifold is done. Again, the O2 sensor speed sensor will have to come back out because we are going to fill it there. I have the rear motor mount installed right there, it is identical to the original and is the same as the DC one. integrates so I have this installed so I have the roof cam or control valve swapped in here as well.

This collector is compatible with both. What I mean by both is the short arc holes and then the long bolt holes. The long bolt hole. You can see there's an extra hole right there on the back and the single cam works perfectly, so it's installed. I have all the hoses in place. This guy here on the throttle body. This guy here thought about the body down to the small um. front water neck port but it's the same one as the guide right here uh this one is hidden because there's no port for it and like I said it's the same one as that guy so this one is locked over the throttle body which doesn't have the map sensor on top like the obd1 like this guy over there, so what I did was I took the map sensor and I screwed it here on the bottom of the throttle body and I have a vacuum line just right there in the back. that winds right there goes right here and that should work plugged in tps don't confuse these guys uh I have the red drivers side mount as well as the center transmission mount coming in guys where do we leave it to plant the engine?

Ok, we installed all the engine mounts, but I've been having a dilemma with the rear T-bracket. I couldn't align the bolts at all and I finally understood that the red seat bracket is an automatic unit and the automatic is definitely different from the and I was waiting for my friend paco to show up with his rear T bracket since he doesn't need it anymore, here my tape measure here, the automatic rear t-bracket has the bolt holes closer together, so this is the automatic, this is what was provided and if you look, we're about three inches from top to bottom, it's about three inches or so, but here, if you look, we're at about three and a quarter and that was the amount that was, you know, way off when it came to screwing the 19mm bolt into the transmission and, this is the right one, in the meantime I installed the axle, forks, suspension on both ends just to Get that out of the way and buckled everything around the engine, all the hoses, the vacuum lines.

I need to make a bracket for the throttle cable because we are using the original cable, for example, for cars, and making a bracket is not a big deal. Paco also left my gsr intake manifold right there and we were able to disconnect the fuel rail right here. These injectors are overhead cam injectors that will work perfectly fine on the stock B series and I just want to show them to you. Guys real quick these guys look like the same camera B Series B Series Single Camera I'm going to change the regulator too but I want to show you, even though it looks the same the bolt patterns are way off so if you can see Right here, one lines up, the other doesn't and it gets worse there, so this is gsr.

I'm going to clean the injectors real quick and then I'm going to install it, put it in, put the harness on it and stuff. It will, so the good thing about having a welding machine is that you can do what you need when you don't have one. Such a complete cable mount we didn't have one because the manifold was New too, we stuck with the original roof cam cable and I took a p75 mount on the right and added some flat stock to it. I cut the tab where the soldered wire goes through on the end here, put it in the middle. so we have fore and aft adjustability, it's a little loose, but it's fully functional so it's out of the way.

The engine is very solid. I don't think there's much left here in the engine bay, so I'm going to go ahead and crawl under it. the car takes out the shift linkage i think that's the last thing before the fluids and the ecu okay guys here back with day number three so i finished the car yesterday we got it started and uh it was a bit too loud. It was like 11:30 with the exhaust open and we turned it off right away because something sparked, something sparked here and it didn't stay sparking, it sparked and then it went off and sparked everywhere else so I'm not sure what that was. , but I'll fix that in just a second, but last night I also saw it up close because the shift link is not the right one, so when you're doing a b shift on a, say, 9295, you need the integra 94 shift link plus now.

The one they provided with this one here, this gold one, they told him it was a type r to me, I was like the right type of gold barge but I realized that this bar here is not that thick if you don't know the integra has a big bar you can see right there and this one doesn't look like an ef. Now I say this because normally when you get a da shift link to try to put it into ef you have to cut it, shorten it and solder it. Put it back together by taking a little bit of length off, but if you look here, this bar is even at the joint, but you can see the difference.

This is higher and this stabilizer bar is the same. Down there you can see where the gear lever is. The supports are also very far apart. I had this in the car yesterday without realizing it and it was super short so I said I would call the garage so I went to storage this morning to grab the shift linkage that came off the cat gsr. engine that you couldn't use and now you have a houseboat on your car, so we're going to use that here and I think it's pretty much the last piece, pull the wheel back, bleed the cooling system, let go of the car. and you should be ready to go home guys so the shifter is back in all gears seems to work so this particular setup is just a stock b20 and you can use a p75 ls ecu from a 94.

No I remember what year it is. up to 94.97 obd-1 could be wrong but p-75 obd1 ls ecu you can use a standard ecu on a b20 you cannot use a chip unit you cannot use s300 or any other standalone ecu of your choice but because it is a style ECU stock engine that will run perfectly fine, let me go ahead and get this car up and running for you real quick. I set my voltmeter just to make sure the alternator is working and charging, but I did. Note the battery is from 2014 so we bleed the clutch because we installed a new slave checking light off no revs everything is shifting we're charging that's good so now I'm going to do the cool down like this What guys.

I've been chasing bugs for a while, the alternator stopped charging after sitting idle for about a minute, the voltage on the meter was like 14 plus and then I saw it drop 13 12 and as soon as I removed the ground battery post The car died, the car started behaving strangely when the battery was dying and I couldn't get the engine to run at the time it was idling at a very high level, so now the owner is bringing me another alternator so I can put it in there and make sure it's charging. The system is working before I take it and another problem I had was the outside control valve.

I started adding coolant. I was bleeding it and then I saw a lot of coolant gushing out of the outside control valve. The lower port. The flat plate that is screwed on. even the idle control valve, somehow it was bent and was leaking coolant in the middle, past the gasket, you know, squirting a bunch of coolant everywhere, so I bent it back, built the sanity, screwed it back together. new and ran the car again before it died. and it's no longer leaking, all these little problems will arise when they do the swap, so expect them to do it on their guys car, but this video was more or less to cover the things that are I'll need to put a b in your example, so I hope this video isn't too boring with me talking a lot about all the parts needed but pretty much the car starts with everything I explained here in the video so I'm going to kill the video right here if you enjoyed this video a little bit with some of the information I posted, be sure to hit the like button.

I'll continue working on CRX tomorrow, so if you want to see some of that, be sure to do so. Hit the subscribe button, but with that being said, thank you all for watching and I'll see you in the next video, peace.