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2012 Honda CRV VTC Actuator Replacement and Diagnosis FULL

Jun 10, 2021
Welcome everyone, today we are working on these

2012

Honda CRV with a 2.4 engine and it makes a loud noise when you start the car cold, especially when it has been sitting for more than six hours, so I asked you and your help. You all helped me, so I really appreciate you guys helping me on this case. It was a little difficult for me to figure it out. I thought it might be the timing chain or the tensioner because I measured them because there are problems with these timing chains and tensioners so I measured the chain it was stretched I measured the tensioner plunger and it was stretched so I knew it needed to be replaced the timing chain but unfortunately it still had a little noise when I started it up and I asked you guys for help and a lot of you guys gave me great feedback so thank you very much for that so let's go ahead and replace the solenoid VTC and I'm I'll show you the process of how to do it, it's very simple and well, it's not simple, but it's kind of simple for me, but again I always tell you that difficult is relative, depending on your skills, you definitely need to do it.
2012 honda crv vtc actuator replacement and diagnosis full
I have a lot of experience, a bit as a mechanic, I'm sure this is something you don't want to mess with because there are a lot of things you have to make sure are set up correctly before you take them or put them back together or else. You're going to have some problems and a lot of this is very technical, so again, if you're patient, you can definitely do it if you're a backyard mechanic, but know that it will take a little bit of experience. I will also put a link in the description below with the

full

instructions for this entire process and procedures.
2012 honda crv vtc actuator replacement and diagnosis full

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2012 honda crv vtc actuator replacement and diagnosis full...

It gives you the right steps, what to do and how to do all this without having to remove many other components. I'll put a link in the description below for all the tools I use on this job and you know any other references up to the description below. Be sure to get it checked out and pick out a hat or shirt at the auto mechanics club. com, the mechanic caps and mechanic engine capes are there and some t-shirts also help support the channel, so thank you very much ladies and gentlemen, let's go ahead and get this started.
2012 honda crv vtc actuator replacement and diagnosis full
I already moved on and at work I went ahead and started removing. the BAL cover, I thought it was going to be pretty easy, especially if you're doing this job, you already know how to do it, so I'm not too worried about showing you the process of how to do it, it's pretty simple, obviously. There are a bunch of bolts you have to remove extend my left side down to get these bolts out here. Sorry, these nuts there are two bolts that go on the back that hold all of this on the valve cover. cover so there's two ten millimeters and I just use a socket and a ratchet and then the spark plug coils I take them off and then there's two nuts on the back here here and then one here and then one two and three there you take them off and then the valve cap can come loose at that point, you know, you just take it off, take it off and then we go ahead with the obso contested.
2012 honda crv vtc actuator replacement and diagnosis full
I will guide you through the process of doing all this work. and I'll show you the highlights mainly because you know a lot of this stuff, if you're doing such a big job, you already know what you're doing, so you don't really need specific details like removing this bolt with this tool. for the most part, so I'll show you the hard parts, like the things that are a little more technical. I think that's where you're going to need to help, especially if you already know how to remove a valve cover, you know. and then I'll show you the details on how to put the valve cover back on.
I hate to make sure I put silicone in here because even though those are the things that you're going to need, they're very specific things that are causing you to have bigger problems down the road, so I want to make sure that you guys are covered on that end, so let's move on. Let's go ahead and get started to get the valve cover off right, so the first thing we're going to do is put the engine at top dead center and we're going to go ahead and put a pin inside the tensioner so we can take the tension off the chain. and then we're going to tie the camshaft to the chain and then we'll be able to remove all the cam caps and then we'll be able to remove the camshaft and we'll go ahead and replace the BTC, so that's basically the procedure, but obviously I'll show you the details, but that's basically what are we going to do now?
Okay, so you want to go ahead and remove the tire so you can get to the camshaft. Sorry, crankshaft, we can turn it and put everything at top dead center. Okay, so we have everything ready to go. Put everything at top dead center, so let's go ahead and remove this cover, this is what covers the turnbuckle and then if you look down here, I already marked the top dead center lines, there will be a mark at the end and then about three. marks this is the mark for top dead center so we are going to turn it until it matches the mark on the top of the timing chain cover.
You can't see it from below. You can only see it from above, but I will. Turn this over and then we'll look at it from the top and I'll show you that once I mark it and everything, then we'll also remove this cover and that's where we wanted to stop in the center, we'll be able to compress the turnbuckle and put the pin a so that it holds the tension off the chain to turn the crankshaft, you need 19 millimeters and just turn it clockwise and then before you forget, there's also another set of marks just above. the other marks, so there are two marks on the right, so there are these ones right here and then there are some over here these are not the marks, I don't know why they are there, but these are the ones that are at the top dead center, so all you know is You should know that there are two sets of marks, the one closest to the bottom left are the ones that you will want to mark everything with and you will know that they are the correct ones because when you put it top dead center on the right, you put it at top dead center and you will be able to check the camshafts and if the camshafts are not aligned then you will know that those are the wrong brands that you are using so go ahead and use the ones on the left one once you get it there go up there make sure the camshafts are aligned too and that's how you'll know what they look like now obviously if you've never started the engine like I already know there are engines at top dead center and it's okay because I started the car and I know everything is working properly so it just makes that noise so I know everything is at top dead center as long as I leave everything as it is remove everything correctly and put everything back in the correct place. then you shouldn't have any problems as long as you put everything at top dead center and know where everything is, that makes sense.
I hope you are good. Now we're going to go ahead and remove the cover using 10 millimeters every time you have a the bolt that drops then drops and then just watch it because these bad boys are going to bounce so if it drops say something like, oh, there it sounds, boom and then Go grab it, never take your eyes off the bolt or you'll lose it, cut the cover, let me show you like a turnbuckle. I know some guys. I've seen it once. This is what the turnbuckle will look like right there. Well, ladies and gentlemen.
The first thing is to go ahead and compress the timing chain tensioner, which is here, the way you do it is there's a little tab here that will retract up when you turn the crankshaft counterclockwise. , so turn this counterclockwise and then this plunger will come back in and on this little tab it will move up and you will be able to secure it using a pin, okay, pretty thin, I think I'll fight, I'll find out measure it and I'll put it on the screen right now so you know what size you'll need, but any pin will do. works and then you go ahead and just put the pin in when the piston retracts because when you turn it back, when you turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, it's going to push back the piston plunger and you can get it in there and hold it. from moving here, I just have it a little bit more right, so we have the pin in everything okay now we go ahead and turn the crankshaft and put it at top dead center, okay, again there are the two marks on the camshaft. show me a picture of what the hell I'm talking about, so you guys should already be aware of everything I'm doing while I'm doing this.
I'm thinking about how to make sure you guys understand what the hell I'm doing. I'm talking, but in the middle there are two marks, you will see the image on the screen right now. Those two brands have to be aligned. Unfortunately for me, this one isn't perfectly aligned, so what I have to do is just turn the camshaft on the crankshaft just a little bit to mark, but make sure those lines are marked. Can't. I can't really see the mark from the top of the crankshaft with the camera. I can see it as if I could sneak in. there and see it, you know with my eyes, but with the camera, unfortunately I can't, but I know that that mark on the bottom has to line up and these marks have to line up and there are also arrows on the camshafts themselves. which shows you how these are supposed to be up, but the most important thing is that these two lines have to be aligned, so now that we have everything lined up we're going to go ahead and make sure all the camshafts are marked before we start .
Removing anything, the way I like to do it is take a marker, this one is oil resistant, but I also like to clean the marks from time to time or the places where I'm going to mark everything, so I use a little bit of paint cleaner. brakes. and I spray it on a rag or a paper towel and then I mark everything so that the marks that go from the camshaft to the sprocket links, sorry about the chain links, I mark them and then I mark obviously the middle where the spark cuts. they're lined up and then I have everything marked in Kay, anything moves.
I know where everything was originally and then I could put it back together. I also like to make some other brands that are not in stock, so I will mark them here. on the top and then I'll mark here on the side just so I can have a reference, you know, I mean, everyone marks two locations on the sprocket and then two locations on the second sprocket and I have everything marked here. Sure that's marked, my pin works and then I'll mark the tooth on the sprocket and then the two links that, uh, the mark is in the middle, you know, I say it, the two links and then there's a little bit. small mark between the teeth of the sprocket, so I will do it just for reference.
I'm going to do it again on another side of the chain and sprocket as well to preserve everything, just to make sure in case one of the marks, for some reason, likes to rub off, which happens sometimes because you spray it with cleaner of brakes or you put oil in there and it's not really marked and you'll wonder, man, where the hell was it? How was this? Where did it all go? What I'm saying is that it's a good idea to mark two locations in case you have any problems with where they are moving and that gives you a better reference.
It just makes me feel better. No man I mean I used to do cobra engines at Ford and those things don't exist anymore except you they don't give you direction so you're pretty much on your own so this is where I learned I learned doing it on a Cobra engine it sucked good so so now that we have everything checked, we're going to go ahead and tie the chain to the sprocket, okay, the next thing we want to do is go ahead and tie the chain sprocket to the chain. and you go through the hole in the sprocket and over the chain, make sure it's nice and tight so nothing falls out because we're going to go ahead and remove the tensioner now that we have everything set up here, we can go to The next step is remove the camshaft brackets, so let's go ahead and remove the capsule covers.
Keep the camshafts down. You want to go ahead and remove them in sequence the way they are supposed to be put back in. and the way you do it is you go from the middle out, so it's going to be one, two, three, four and then again, I'll also put a link in the description of the sequence so you guys have it and I'll put a photo. here on the screen so you know what the hell I'm aiming for four and then it's five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve and then it's thirteen to here then it's fourteen fifteen sixteen and then it's seventeen to here 18 19 20 so we move them on that order and again I'll put a picture here so you have it and realize what I'm talking about so let's go ahead and remove them and then remove the camshaft as well and before we go ahead and remove the cam brackets we'll go ahead and remove each bolt in sequence two turns at a time, so if this is the first one we remove, we give it two turns off then it goes to the next two turns two turns and then when you do them all you go back to the first one another two turns another two turns and another two laps and you do that tolet everything turn out fine and even you never want to remove one and then have this side crooked because they don't mess things up so go ahead and remove it in sequence two turns at a time who tries it twice12 and then the next one so it's one and it's two more. here, so it's one, two, two turns at a time, if you want to mark if you want to go crazy, go ahead and mark which ending is which, so for example, we'll say this is the point of departure, here you already know. you'll spin it one and then two if you want to be super technical if you're scared, but just just two spins, I mean, don't you know, follow one that's a spin and then, okay, okay, now that.
We have everything loose. I'm still going in sequence to make sure, but everything is pretty loose now, so you can go ahead and remove everything. Remove the five cam supports. Place them. Keep them in order. Don't mess this up. two three four five well there's five of them and keep them in order set them aside put them in a nice clean area that's safe for them to knock over nobody's going to mess with them set them aside all the bolts in the same place and then we can go ahead and tilt the camshaft and get it off the chain and then get it out of the way with someone's help if for some reason they're having trouble getting them.
What I like to do is pull the pins frequently so I can see a little bit of the thread and then I just gently squeeze them and move them back and forth and it will come out nice and gentle, looking crazy. They're all pretty off, this one is still stuck, so what I'll do is sign it one at a time. Okay, now that we have everything turned off, we can go ahead and lift the camshaft, tilt it out and power. To remove it from the chain or other instruments, we remove the old camp phaser, we just have someone hold it from here with the 1516 millimeter wrench and then go ahead and remove the bolt, which is 17 millimeters and you could use a gun to remove it.
It's not a big deal or a weapon, but I recommend doing something like the instructions say: someone holds it, you turn it with a breaker bar now that we remove it mm-hmm, we have the new

actuator

in the shop and Then the only thing you will notice is that the difference between these two with the old and the new one is that one of them is locked and the other is unlocked. Now the new ones will be locked, so when you place it. On the camshaft you turn it and then it locks by itself, but you can see that if for some reason you use a service part or it comes locked, there is a procedure to unlock it, which is that you put it on and tighten it with your finger. tightened and then plugs the use holes, then you put compressed air through this hole and then twist it and unlock it.
Now I don't have to do that because a new unlocked one is coming. for me and I'll be able to do all of this once it's already on and I don't have to do that procedure, but know that if you have to do it for any reason, you're going to have to go through that process. I'm not going to go through that because I don't have to, so understand that you want to unlock it as it is here, okay, this little tab is over, you can see this one is over like this, that's because it's locked, okay? alright guys, go ahead and set up the phaser, put a little bit of oil on the threads here on the bolt, just a couple drops there, nothing too excessive, just enough there.
I didn't install it with my fingers, just run it down with my fingers. so you don't have any problems so we go ahead and tighten it once it's

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y on okay ladies and gentlemen so I've got the cam torque down it's supposed to be torqued to eighty three foot pounds , eighty-three feet. pounds and the way you tighten it is someone holds it here with the fifteen sixteenths wrench hold it and then you tighten it so this is a two man job here make sure you don't twist this okay because this is remember which is supposed to be unlocked when you install it, so when you take it out of the box unlocked, put it in, turn it down, turn the nut down, bolt down by hand and then tighten it to 83 lbs. -foot once it's already Tight and you have it in your hand, then you grab the outer sprocket and turn it clockwise and it will click into place and it should look like this, the little one dips it in, it's well, that should be locked and then you won't be able to. to move it more okay that's what I meant when if this thing comes closed you're going to have to tie this hole and you're supposed to put compressed air through it and it's supposed to unlock it okay but I don't .
I don't have to do that, so we're ready to go, but when you put it, I know, when you've talked it all over, turn it up and that should put you in the right position for everything, okay, so now what we're going to do. do is now that we have everything ready to go. I moved on, give me a second, let me put this down. I went ahead and raised the cam and someone helped me get the chain out of the way so I took it off. I had to put this. cap so the camera doesn't move too much on this end, so now I'm going to ask someone else to help me remove this.
Put the caps on and make sure everything lines up then I'll go ahead and tighten everything up and get on with the job and put it all back together okay that's German so I bought the new cam phaser. Sorry, the new

actuator

. Like I said before, I marked this side and this side and everything lined up there. My assistant came and helped me hold the chain while I fished the cam. A little tip was that I also had to lift the exhaust side. I raised the exhaust cam a little to loosen the chain a little more, then my assistant helped me, I put the cam on and they ran the chain over the gear and then they told me okay, turn it a little. a little bit and then I moved it and then we had everything lined up and that's when I put everything on the ground and I have a stand holding it from the middle.
Now I'm going to go ahead and install the rest of them and then tighten everything up. down and then tighten everything in sequence, later, so I'll take a month, grab some oil cap here, put a little oil on all the cam journals so they're lubricated when you start. raise the car again, just a smidge, drop a couple of drops on the cam journals so everything is nice and lubricated when the car starts again, it's not totally necessary, but it's something I like to do and everything should have removed it. and place them exactly, place them exactly as you took them off, but in case they are numbered and have an arrow which way they should point the point of the aeroshell towards the front of the engine, the front of the engine is where the crankshaft okay guys , so when we tighten everything I like to do it nice and slow, you know, so that the cam is nice and still, you start in the middle and then you go outwards.
So 1 1 2 2 So the same thing, just turn them down, don't tighten them or anything, just one of them tight, once they're all nice and down and comfortable, that's when we go ahead and start tightening everything up for these big ones. the 60 foot pound ones, all the 16 foot pound or 22 newton meter bulls, okay, okay, now we've got everything ready to get everything tight, so let's go ahead and start tightening everything up. same way. sequence to 16 foot-pounds, ok ladies and gentlemen, the last thing we need to do is obviously put the valve cap back on after turning it twice and making sure all the lines are still marked and everything is in the correct order.
Look inside the timing chain guides and make sure the timing chain is sitting in the guides correctly if not it is likely to have fallen off and you will need to remove the timing chain cover and then place it in the correct position, but it's probably okay, especially if everything went well. The last thing after that was to put the cover back on the turnbuckle. I like to use a wire wheel and then just remove all the old gasket material, take a razor blade to the timing chain cover and then remove all the old stuff, put some gasket maker in here, put it on standby 30 minutes before topping up the fluid oil, if you put oil, and then go ahead and start the car if the car should have been stopped for about 6 hours, so it's okay to start it and then test everything again, so it should be ok but that's basically it, it was a fun process, everything went pretty well, the last thing I had to do is make sure it boots up and has no problems, as long as they haven't messed anything up it should be fine, everything was pretty standard, pretty straight forward, as long as all the marks were in the correct spaces on the xboxone rocker you shouldn't have any real problems starting the car.
You shouldn't have that noise anymore, everything should be fine and ready to go, but if you're wondering, go ahead and start it, turn off the car, let it sit for six hours, let the oil drain and then go ahead and start it again and it shouldn't have any more problems or noises anyway, but anyway thank you very much for looking. Be sure to leave me a comment. Let me know what you liked about the video. Also make sure they see the car. mechanic Club Kong pick up your shirts and your hats, we have the mechanic, we have chickens and I say the hats of him there thank you very much for seeing him.
I hope you enjoyed the video and found some information if you gave it a thumbs up, thank you. Too much to look at, take care, okay, of course, beautiful, little round and you move the little square, come on, time.

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