2.0 TSI Engine Teardown After Engine Failure

What's happening? Everyone is Charles, so here next to me is a 2-liter turbo

engine

from an Audi. I think it's from a Q5 or something, it doesn't really matter what it is because it's a super common

engine

and this engine has some kind of

failure

, assuming it's a timing chain tensioner

failure

, which we'll do in this one. video is to tear down this engine, do some thorough inspections, analyze what's wrong with it, what we need to fix it and me. I'm going to show you some of the really common things that happen to these engines, so here's our 2 liter, as you can see this engine doesn't appear to have been very well maintained during its life, this really isn't a surprise.

That's having some kind of problem, let's start by checking the timing chain tensioner. If you're doing this on the car, there would be a dipstick funnel running right up front here between the pulley on the deck, no big deal. You can still fix it too if you were doing this on the car, especially on an engine that you were trying to save, we would want to clean all of this out because we don't want any of this to get into our oil pan. You can see how. This little cover really is unpleasant. We'll take our flathead screwdriver and just remove this little cover.

I notice right away that we have our old style turnbuckle. When you see this little gray band on the turnbuckle, you know for sure. This is the old type for comparison, this is what our new style turnbuckle looks like. Our next step will be to set the engine to base timing to see how far off our timing really is. We'll start with us turning the crankshaft and aligning it. Let's raise our TDC marks from our crankshaft pulley to our timing cover. Now there will be some small differences between the VW engines and the Audi engines, mainly in the side attachment.

This pulley is not on VW engines. I'm going to go ahead and remove it. Now this is a t40 fastener, so I'm going to put my T 40 bit in, just give it a little tap. I didn't feel like the bit was going in well enough. Go ahead and remove that. Next, let's wipe off some of this caked-on oil. Remove any debris and debris so we can see our timing marks. Man, this stuff is thick here. Now this engine actually has two different timing marks on the timing cover. There's one that will be right around twelve o'clock on the lid at the top. and then one down here, oh I don't know, at about 4:45, this is the one we're going to use.

I'm going to go ahead and add my own mark right on the factory mark so we can see it a little bit easier and then this pink mark will correspond to a mark on the pulley. What we're going to do is turn the engine clockwise, always clockwise, and set it to TDC, that didn't sound right. We're not right, but we're pretty close and I think this engine is toast anyway, so being awesome 2 millimeter doesn't really matter if you're not sure if your timing clocks are aligned, grab a screwdriver and just put it in on the timing mark and see if it lines up, you can see we're a little off, no big deal, this will be close enough for us though, now that we have our crankshaft aligned let's look at our camshafts, which I usually do for Take a quick look: If I look just behind the chain, I can see the camshaft here on the exhaust cam.

You can see that little notch in the camshaft that needs to face inward so we can access the head bolt. You can actually take the we remove the cylinder head without removing the camshafts as we slide over to our intake cam, we're actually seeing that it's not about ninety degrees from where it should be, so the groove in the exhaust cam it's like this, the groove on the intake cam is like this, this camshaft is about ninety degrees off time, now let's go ahead and remove this pulley before we remove one of these pulleys. There is one key tool that you must have and it can be the fancy VW tool, it can be a small donut.

A piece of donut like this or, honestly, a stack of washers, you know, I don't know, three-quarters of an inch thick will work too. When we remove this bolt, we will remove the crankshaft pulley. This bolt not only holds the crankshaft pulley. It also holds the crankshaft gear that drives all of our chains to our own crankshaft, so if you take it off and start moving the engine, you will get your engine out of time for us, this is no big deal, but if If you are doing a chain tensioner or some kind of oil leak your engine is almost certainly going to run out of time and that is not what we want to do so you better have one of these guys or again the fancy VW tool which is actually is much better than this because it holds everything together much better than this now that I yelled at you about it, let's go ahead and take this pulley off.

You were going to need some type of tool for the counterhole. This one has four pins. and I'm going to open it up so we can run our plug through this wine from my Pollock store tap. I'll be sure to link all the tools you'll need for this job in the description, so we put on our Counter, hold, take our 24 millimeter socket and loosen it. Now this will come loose very easily because it wasn't that tight at the beginning. Yours will be much tighter than that. I like to grab and hold the pulley. Remove the bolt. hold the bolt in your hand remove the pulley lower the pulley get your donut put your donut in and then put the bolt back in place and tighten it that's the order you have to do it you have to do it that fast again otherwise , you run the risk of messing up your engine timing and we don't want to do that, so now that's all secured, the pulley is also attached to that gear.

You can see these little grooves here on the pulley. I'll note that one is like a double notch here, this corresponds to another point on the gear, if you don't position it that way you end up crushing these notches and that bolt here can back up and destroy your motor. I've seen it more than once, next time let's remove our cam bridge, this is another place that is a very common failure point, from oil leaking from this seal here to the screen coming out and causing oil starvation problems on the back of the cylinder head. Let's start by removing our spool valve.

This is our controller for our variable valve timing. You'll notice there are two small indentations here. There are actually a couple different styles of spool valves. They all have two notches. Some are centered in front of each other. others and some are displaced. This is the tool we need to remove the spool valve. You can see that these are basically centered on nine and three and if we flip them this way they are like ten and two, we need the ten and on one side we are. We'll go ahead and put this into the key point here, this spool valve has counter threading or reverse threading, so you need to turn on the wrench to loosen it.

Another thing you'll probably want to do is place a wrench just behind the cam adjuster to hold the camshaft while we remove the spool valve. An 18 millimeter open-end wrench works perfectly, so let's counterbalance it, place our tool, loosen that, take out our spool valve, maybe there we go, come on, do you want to do it? a pretty thorough examination of this part, especially if when we remove it the screen is missing because the screen and the oil passage here can get trapped inside this spool valve. Next, we'll take out these t 30 and this triple square. here we'll start with our number 10 triple square.

The VW and Audi have different bolts here, so it may actually be an Allen, not a triple square and we'll take out our T 30s if you're doing this for maintenance or just. an inspection, it's not a bad idea to stick a rag right here that way, if one of these bolts falls out, it doesn't fall behind the timing cover, which can make for a pretty bad day. We're taking all of ours apart so we can You don't need to worry about that, just a little tip if you're doing this for replacement or as a maintenance item, something down here so nothing gets left behind.

This is also a pin we want to make sure we keep. I need to remove this because it actually supports the camshafts at the front of the engine, it's not a big surprise that our screen is actually missing from our bracket, luckily it's right here on the cylinder head, sometimes what happens is that This In fact, go and get stuck in the spool valve as I mentioned or further down in this oil galley, either of these two oil galleys and it will cost a severe lack of oil in the rear of the engine and ours is here, so we can set it up with our Poco with our cam bracket, next let's go up to the top of the engine, our PCV valve and our ignition coils have already been removed.

What we are trying to do is remove the camshaft crest. Many people call this valve cap PCB. They're already mostly removed, we'll just undo this and get the rest of it out of here. This actually exposes our camshaft. Here's another good look at that little channel I was talking about in the intake chamber at TDC instead of watching. like nine and three this should be 12 and 6 so you can see we're out of time remove this hose here disconnect our cam position sensor we'll actually go ahead and remove that next let's get the vacuum pump and the high pressure fuel pump.

Off, we'll undo our high pressure fuel line here. If you're doing this in the car, you'll probably want to slowly build up the fuel pressure. Off, here's our lobe that drives the high pressure fuel pump. I've even seen that screen. We were talking a minute ago. I saw that screen stuck here because it traveled through that oil galley from the other side of the engine a couple of things before we remove this cam ladder cam bridge or the valve cover off of this. It's a valve lift car, so we have these solenoids on the back of the cylinder head on the exhaust cam side, we're going to need to remove this one to get to this bolt back here if you're doing this for maintenance. .

Actually, we're going to need to set the proper position of those with these little slide pins, remove the solenoid, drop this little pin and as the engine turns, put the pin in the proper position, our timings provide, there's no need to maintain them. moving it to remove our first solenoid here, which is a t25 torx. Next, we're going to take out all of these t30 bolts that hold this to the cylinder head. When we remove a component like this, we want to make sure we remove it. in the correct order we start on the outside and go in when we tighten it we start in the middle and work out so we'll take this side off first and then we'll go to the outside and back and forth until we take out all the bolts and when let's remove the last one, this valve cutter will probably come out a little bit, don't worry, everything will be fine, we'll grab our little pry bar and just pry this cover up. it lifts up pretty easily, you want to be careful not to be too aggressive here on the metal to metal contact surface, we don't want to mess up the cylinder head and we're going to gently lift the cap, remove the gasket from our vacuum cleaner. pump and here we go here are our camshafts these sleeves here are for our outer valve lift which provides the different profiles on the exhaust cam low lift duration low lift higher duration longer duration so from here everything looks good.

I don't see any blown rocker arms I don't see any serious cylinder heads or damaged camshafts the chances of not having bent valves are pretty low but okay let's go back to the front and remove the front timing cover so we can actually remove this chain from here if you really want to you can just remove the chain you can turn the cams up and remove the chain and remove the cylinder head right here let's go ahead and remove the lower timing cover next so a series of t30 bolts. which we are going to have to remove now, once you have all the bolts you will find that the cover doesn't just come off, in fact you can take a pry bar and remove it and a lot of times that doesn't work very well.

Or this cover is single use, once you take it off you probably won't want to put it back on because it's almost impossible to take it off without tampering with it or modifying it in some way. I also don't really like to just destroy the cover or pry up our engine or oil pan or something, so what I found was to take a very fine scraper or like a putty knife or something and get here to the side of the cover between the block and the deck is really the best way to get this out of here if you just put it a little bit between the block and the deck and just tap it gently with ahammer, you can put it between the block and the cover and then all you have to do is fix it, even taking your time and doing it this way, you want to replace this cover.

This is also the method I use for oil pans because this type of thing breaks the seal and makes it much more complicated. It's easier to get out of the car and you don't destroy the crankcase, here is our timing circuit in the front, we have our oil pump circuit, in the middle we have our timing circuits or our crankshaft to camshafts and then in the back we have our balance. The axle circuit will begin D tensioning the tensioner for the oil pump drive. This can be done practically by hand. It will take a small pin, just slide it in and it will hold.

There is no timing or anything for this oil pump transmission, so we don't really have to worry about it, we can actually go ahead and take it off. This is not something I normally replace when doing this type of work. Some of these can't actually be removed with the oil pump chain at all. This installed you have to do it all together, we can fix it, just leave it hanging down there. Next, we have our timing chain circuit. Here is our tensioner. I can see how much movement the timing chain tensioner actually has. What I would normally do is take a pin. and you would come right in here, release the tension, drag this back and then put a lock down here that will keep the tension off the chain for us.

We know we're in a pretty bad situation, so I'm just going to go ahead and remove the tensioner. I want to be careful in case something goes flying. There is a spring inside this tensioner. We want to be attentive. Let's see the failure of this tensioner. Here are our teeth that are supposed to hold our locking positions. and slide it out of your vehicle's entire engine timing, it all depends on this little piece with these little slots and the slots actually wear out and get super sad and that's one of the reasons it comes loose, besides that, like lack of lubrication and so on, so it's no surprise that it's been redesigned and there's been more than one revision, now our chain has no tension, we can go ahead and take this chain out completely, here's our nasty old chain of failed distribution, something else.

We want to consider it's the stretch of the chain, not just the tensioner failing here. I have the old chain that we just removed in front of me and a new chain right behind it and just by looking at the two you can't tell the difference, but if we hang them Place them evenly and reach all the way to the bottom. In fact, you can see that our chain is stretched just a little bit, it's just a little bit longer, that little bit of stretch or that little bit of wear on the chain along with a weak tensioner is typically what causes catastrophic failure.

Here's our nasty old timing chain failure if you're just doing a timing chain tensioner like maintenance or stretching or something and you don't have any engine damage on top or even if you do. You don't need to mess with the balance shaft chain. This is this rear chain. You can leave it in the car and that's totally cool. I'm going to remove it because I actually want to pull the balance shaft. Inspect them, but if you're not doing that, don't mess it up in time, now you don't want to mess it up and take it out of time because that will cause a vibration in the engine.

Here is our side tensioner that looks a lot like a VR6 timing. chain tensioner, if you go that far and do that much work, it's actually not the worst idea to replace it, but it can be repaired outside the engine if necessary, so it's not the end of the world, but if you go like this So far, You could also replace it. Next, we will unscrew our guides for our timing chain. We also want to evaluate these guides. If you're going to go that far, replace them. Don't waste your time, but we want to evaluate it because.

If they are broken, we may need to remove the oil pan and look for broken plastic. Remove our other guide Now that we have everything removed, we can remove this bolt and remove the gear that drives all of our chains. Look right at 12 o'clock on this gear, there's a notch and a flat spot, that flat spot, that little flat spot is technically the key that's supposed to line up with this flat spot right here on the crankshaft, yeah, it is a small flat spot. here and a little flat spot here and what I've seen people do is not pay attention, take off this gear a little bit when they go to tighten it, crush this part of the gear, not only are they out of time, their bolts. it is not tightened correctly and eventually the bolt will back out and go out of timing and you will end up with a Cat OSHA traffic engine failure.

Now that we have the timing chain removed and those things dealt with and evaluated, it's time to pull. I'm actually going to remove the turbocharger and intake manifold mainly because it will make removing the cylinder head a little easier, you know what that means. Almost everything is ready for this engine. We can remove our camshafts easily. We want to do a thorough inspection of the stumps. Make sure we don't have any scratches due to lack of oil or something like that. If you have variable valve lift, don't do it. Don't slide them, there is a ball and spring under strong spring pressure where if you slide them, the ball and spring fly away and you will probably never find them again.

Next time we will unlock our soul. Well, it's more or less that. easy, just like we did with the cam cover, we'll start from the outside and work our way in, we actually have 40 30s here on the front of the engine that we'll need to take off now, we should be able to. to lift the cylinder head, we'll just do a quick check to make sure we didn't miss anything, everything looks good, take this price a little bit, make sure we don't have anything hanging, now we can lift it right away. This isn't too heavy, but you might want to grab a friend or crazy friend and ask them to help you.

We're looking at the top of the cylinder 4 piston, this notch right here that's supposed to be there, that's normal, but if we clean this sticky substance and the carbon, we'll see that our valve impacted our piston and when the valve impacts the piston bends. Now you'll want to look at them very closely because I've actually seen them chipped. The pistons on these timing chain tensioners come loose, so here's cylinder 1, pretty much the same thing, we can see some impact damage. I wouldn't use these pistons for that reason, it just means that we will almost certainly have valves, you can see. impact damage right there a little bit there look what they look like under 2 and 3 well there's a lot of goo on top of the Pistons that's for sure and it looks like we're seeing basically the same damage that we saw so let's look at the cylinder head and see what it looks like, here is our cylinder head, these are our exhaust valves, these are intake valves, you can see a little mark there where there was an impact, a little mark there where there is an impact, it might be a little bit Hard to see in the video, but this valve is clearly not seated correctly.

That will be cylinder 1. Cylinder 2. This intake valve here is clearly not fully seated. Cylinder 3. Cylinder 4. Looks like it might actually be fully seated. Either way, it doesn't really matter, we have at least 3 cylinders with bent valves. In fact, you can see a rim of carbon buildup right there on the exhaust side, on the intake manifold side. It's actually quite difficult to see the bent valves and it's very difficult. I put a camera in there so what I did was I dropped a flashlight underneath and you can see the light directly through this is cylinder 1. You can see the light directly showing how bent they are.

There is no camshaft in the engine, so there is nothing to do. Push the valves down, all of our exhaust and intake valves should be closed at this point, but we're clearly seeing light directly through there, so we have bent valves, something we also want to make sure we pay attention to and consider. is the damage to the camshafts. What I've seen a couple of times is that the lobes actually rotate, which will look like one lobe is here and instead of the other one facing the same direction, it will be rotated a little bit. You can usually see it without having to go. put a measuring device and measure it here, we have our water pump and surprisingly our water pump is leaking on this engine.

This is probably one of the most common problems in this series of two-liter engines. Another very common thing will actually be a leaking rear main seal, from what I can see here on ours it actually looks pretty good, maybe it was replaced at some point, well there we have it, I don't think there are any surprise that this was the kind of damage that this two-liter had clearly we have one - probably the four-cylinder with bent valves will really be best for this engine to separate the bottom end - and evaluate the pistons because Audi is known for having piston problems. oil consumption, so there we have it probably, oh, I don't know, it takes about three thousand dollars in engine repairs, no wonder the car has a different engine instead of trying to rehab this one, guys, yeah If you have questions or comments, please submit them below if you wish. the video, do me a favor, hit the thumbs up button and share the video.

There's probably someone out there running around with an old timing chain tensioner that needs fixing before their engine ends up like this, so guys I'm out have a wonderful day and I'll talk to you again next time