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WILL THE 711CI TWIN-TURBO HEMI FIT INTO MY 1961 CADILLAC COUPE DEVILLE?

May 28, 2024
foreign love with this car again foreign vs garage thanks for hanging out thanks for supporting the channel, especially those of you who went to fsmgarage.com and bought the new merch. We have all kinds of new things for you that you

will

love. that and uh we're renovating a major innovation that's happening on this side of the garage, as you can see I've got a bunch of stuff thrown randomly against the wall, that's where all the nuts, bolts, fasteners, brackets, everything is. that I have accumulated. the years and that I am constantly buying and replenishing, let's go and today we are going to do much better, where do you see this?
will the 711ci twin turbo hemi fit into my 1961 cadillac coupe deville
But first I have to get everything out of the way foreign foreign, each of these shelves were removed a thousand pounds, really yes, it looks like a foreign for sure, so, as you know, this side of the store has been a mess for a long time and I constantly buy bras that I don't need or didn't buy enough of. or I run out of nothing all the time and I met these guys thanks to Cletus McFarland's good looks and they have completely transformed this corner of the garage into a Bra Mecca and the great thing about this deal is that not only do I have everything organized but when I run out of something I just scan it with my phone and it takes me to the website and shows me exactly what I'm missing and how to get it back quickly and it's perfect because the Cadillac needs a lot of fasteners right now and so now I have no excuses not to work on it, yeah, sure, oh, the cart.
will the 711ci twin turbo hemi fit into my 1961 cadillac coupe deville

More Interesting Facts About,

will the 711ci twin turbo hemi fit into my 1961 cadillac coupe deville...

I love this car. I love the stance of this car. I love the look of this car. The welded wheels and the money. I love a two-door stroller. This is a 61 the reason I chose the 61 is because it's my favorite of all the Cadillacs because it has enough tail fin to be cool but it also has these one year old rocket tail lights and these things are just sweet I love them um mrc- Fab did a very, very good job on the chassis of the car and they got a good start on the roll cage, which

will

be the standard cage that will last 8.5 seconds and a quarter mile.
will the 711ci twin turbo hemi fit into my 1961 cadillac coupe deville
We have two parachutes, this is because this car is going to be heavy and going over 150 miles per hour in the quarter mile and we will need those parachutes to stop, so let's thank Stroud Safety for the filming and motion race work for the air launchers and all the safety material we have in this car. I'm going to keep the original Dash. I will do everything I can to keep the original steering wheel. I'm going to put a quick release adapter in there and we're going to make some changes here. Let's talk about those changes, so that's the original rear seat that fits in the car.
will the 711ci twin turbo hemi fit into my 1961 cadillac coupe deville
I love it though, when this cage was made, some of the things that were done to it were done for aesthetic purposes, which I totally appreciate, like the main hoop of the roll cage is right there where the back of the door and the front edge of the rear window meet, it's hidden, it looks great. The problem with that is the doors and cabin of this car are very long, so the front seat ends here, not here, which means your harness. The bar is very far back here and when the harness bar is very far back here you don't have to just crawl over it to get in there, but your legs are under it as you ride, which is not necessarily comfortable or safe, so no No I want to move the main hoop because I love where it is, but what I could do is maybe make it part of a fun car style cage that would have a vertical bar down here and then connect to the harness bar and then maybe a triangle and then maybe a diagonal link down there, basically to make the harness bar sturdy, but make the end of the back seat area open to make it easier for people to get in there, but also so that at least two people can sit there without having your knees under you. a harness bar um this is a chromoly roll cage it's been TIG welded a couple of changes I'm going to make are on an 850 certified car you can make the door bars removable and I'm going to do that I'm going Cut them out and put bobby pins on each end so the door bar can come out uh, the seat frame that's going to go away, um, it's a giant oversized tube, you know, a three-quarter inch tube, which is very heavy, but more than anything, it is eating up space in the car. and this is a classy car, you know, I don't want to see the seat frame, so I'm going to cut all that out and then we'll make a new frame under the floor, um, we're also going to change. some of the floors because these floors are out of a uh I think a 56 Chevy Bel Air test with five cars and well it's a great solution to put floors in here quickly they take up a lot of space in here so you know the electronics for the The car will have to go somewhere that they can't all go, in the engine bay, so I would like to have this space again under the seats, for things like, you know, the Holley Dominator EFI computer, if there It's where I decide to put.
It's that kind of thing, so at a minimum I'm going to cut this area out and recess it, but there's a good chance I could completely cut the floor from the seat forward and just build a new floor. I'm not sure about the other thing that's why I'm kicking myself because I gave away the bench seat in this car and I wish I hadn't. When I gave it away it was because I knew I was going to have a racing seat to go to drag races. and land speed racing, a restraint style seat because it's safer, but I didn't think about all the times I wouldn't be racing the car and it would have been great to have the matching bench seat out of here to go.
Back in the car, so I'm an idiot. I should have kept it. If you're out there, right, you want to sell it to me again. I know I gave it to you, but I'll buy it from you. I know because it goes with the car, it would be great to have it. If not, I'll try to find another one, but I wish I could remember your name. I apologize for meeting briefly and if you have the car. or if you have the seat for this car, I would love to have it back, uh, let's go get it.
I'm not going to put the 711 cubic inch Hemi in my

1961

Cadillac out of business. No, I just won't. hanging there just a little bit to see how it feels and looks, I'm not staying, even though I promise we do this, it's not going to fit right. A little backstory here, I have a

1961

Cadillac Coupe Deville that you guys have probably seen on this channel before, if you haven't I'll tell you all about it. It's not a barn find. I found it in an airplane hangar in California. We filmed a road trip episode of a road trip and then he came here to me and Georgia.
I always thought an old school Cadillac would look cool, very low but with really big tires, not entirely professional but actually a functional eight second luxury car that I could cram my friends into and once I bought the car, I spent maybe eight seconds contemplating. I cut it and then I cut it. This pissed off quite a few people because it is a 46,000 mile original car without any rust, however it has a really horrible repaint and as you will see the paint is peeling off. you know every part of the car it has some dings and all that but I understand why people are mad like it's a good car it really is but my logic says you start with a good car because then you don't waste a lot of time.
You know, fixing rust and stuff like that, and you may think I ruined this car, but I made it the car I wanted and since it's my car, I'm fine with it and if you don't like it, there are plenty of other channels you could be on. seeing you just won't have this car so here we go it's got an MRC Fab tube chassis uh it's not a round tube it's not like a full drag racer it's more like a pro. Touring style chassis, we went to Great Longitudes to get the car low to the ground and still put a heavy duty radial in the rear, it's completely tubular, has four links, has Viking coil suspension all the way around and my plan for this car.
From the beginning it was never to use this engine. I contacted Tom Nelson at Nelson Racing and told him that he needed about 2000 horsepower to do what I want to do with this car for a while. I was thinking LS because it would really fit. well, but he and a couple of other people, including Pete Harrell, talked me out of using the ls. They said what you're trying to do probably won't keep the heads sealed very well, so we went with the traditional big block Chevy that never fails and I sent a bunch of parts to Tom Nelson, he has CP Pistons Carrillo rods, uh, I think we're using, it could be a sunny Bryant crank.
I'm not sure I've had the things for a while, to fit them in between each other. projects and you guys have noticed that I haven't touched this car in over a year and that's because I'm literally stuck. I haven't had the engine and I'm not upset about it, it's just that way these days. the pandemic slowed it down personal things slowed it down I didn't really even have time to work on the car but now I've brought it home with the full intention of doing almost nothing else until this thing works and the goal is to get to some sort of event of drag and drive in 2023 with the Cadillac and my friends try to copy some eight second passes and then drive it, you know it's going to have air conditioning, power steering,

twin

turbo

s, um, it's going to have all the things that they should do.
It's fast and fun, hopefully reliable, we'll see, but the reason this engine is here right now is not because it's in the car permanently, it's not and you'll see why later I took some basic measurements of this thing a long time ago. a while ago and the deck height of this engine basically means that any intake manifold I put on it with an elbow and a throttle body was going to go through the hood of the car and, um, I don't want that, I want the body. of the Cadillac to look like the original Cadillac, very low to the ground, with V-lock welded wheels, so the reason this engine is here today is that I would like to move forward with the car, but I don't have it yet. the engine, uh, however, this engine, although it has Hemi heads, is based on Chevrolet, this is a five-inch bore spaced Brodix aluminum Chevy block, what does that mean?
I know it's an aluminum big block Chevy, but the cylinder liners are moved. As an aside, a standard big block Chevy has a 4.840 inch bore spacing, this has 5.00 bore spacing and that means the boards are spaced so you can make the thicker cylinder sleeves stay under extreme pressure. You know it's a better design than the old original. A big block Chevy, um, Sunny Leonard made it where the Hemi heads bolted directly to it, so this is the engine from a kit on my

turbo

jet boat that I just sold. The engine is here. I'd like to build engine mounts and a trans mount and you know, we move forward until the engine gets here, the actual engine that we're going to use, which is not a half head engine and it doesn't have an 11 inch deck height like this , so the big block Chevy, the heads will be smaller, the deck height will be lower, the intake will be lower, it should fit under the hood of this car, but I can use this engine to simulate engine mounts, mounts trans, things like that and get them going, you know? before the new engine arrives, that's what we're doing today, we're going to put this up here and it will be a great teaser, but it's a means to an end right now.
I'd like to make some progress so I'm going to do that so first I need to take the hood off the car and it doesn't have hinges because we lost them when we took the inner fenders off so I'm going to have to get creative to do that somehow. We take off the giant heavy hood so we can hang this on the car next to it, here we go, yeah all kinds of real estate here from left to right and even front to back, we don't have much height though, definitely we will have to go. dry sump for the lube system and the oil pan and um I'm not going to modify the firewall because I love the dash we're going to keep all the air conditioning stuff in there that's just a can of worms what about Maybe you want to deal as if you don't.
I don't even want to deal with the windshield wiper motor situation, like if I can just rebuild it and bolt it back on I'll do it to get the motor going right before because we have plenty of room up here for an intercooler a radiator God this thing rusted out fast Jesus Man Okay, so let's take our transmission and we'll bolt it to our motor and put it in there. I should really remove the front of the car, but the front looks like this. great in the car, I don't want to take it out of the car, we might have to, I'm going to have to lift the car though, there's no way we're going to put the hoist under the car, so I might as well do that. that right now, oh, I'm not even going to go under it now, okay foreigner, okay, here we go, it's better, let's get a transmission, should we be very careful with this one because I need the boxWhy is this trans going to come back here? shortly after I made a mockup of it because it is one of those ultralight Bluetooths without internal parts.
Transmissions because it wasn't ready when it was ready for the mockup so I'm going to use it for the mockup and then send it back to them so they can build it is from Gear Star which is an American company that does a fantastic job building transmissions. This will be the most powerful engine you've ever put in front of one of your transmissions, but it's one of the reasons I like it. Using Gearstar is that one person does all your build and if something goes wrong, they're who you talk to on the phone when you call and when the transmission is done they put it on a Dyno before mailing it to you as if to verify that this works.
This thing changes, everything is happy, which is pretty sweet and we leave with a turbo 400 with an SFI approved aftermarket rod case, which makes me feel good in case something goes wrong and hopefully, I blew out my toes or, uh, still intact afterwards thanks to the good case, this is what happens when you try to be careful, oh, it's much lighter when there's nothing inside, oh, how nice it looks there. This is an aluminum reed box for a Chevy turbo 400 transmission that looks cool, has a deep pan, will eventually be filled with a list of drums from a Yank converter. carbon fiber risers will have a trans brake.
I'm not sure if we will have external spillways for the liquid or not, but it will be a spicy meatball. I just left my house. I have to make a quick trip to a nearby store. It's an interesting place, there's no sign on the building, most of the things there are top secret and I can't film them or show them to you, but inside this metal building near my house is probably the biggest manipulator of composite materials that it manufactures with carbon fiber bodies. parts let's say they are unique things um killer manufacturers killer wiring people um the owner is a good friend of mine and his name is RK racecraft and if that name sounds familiar it's because Ryan Martin from Street Outlaws has his cars worked there.
I've seen the Murder Nova there. I've seen a lot of unprepared cars, a lot of cars powered by Proline packages. um work at this place and uh I'm lucky because they have a lot of things in stock and right now. I go there to get a transmission mid plate and a mid plate goes between the bellhousing that houses the transmission and the back of the engine block, it sits on the engine block studs and studs and the mid plate absorbs a lot of the torque. rotary motion of the engine and transfers it to the frame rails and it's a good idea to have one on something with a lot of power, something that's heavy, which is what the Cadillac will be and I forgot to order one so I called my friend Ryan.
RK Racecraft had a used one there, so I'm going to run over there and grab it. It won't be perfect for what I'm doing, but it will get me going and there is already streaming support. On the cart, we actually had a dummy engine and transmission in there at one point, so I think I can get the midplate on the bell housing bolts. I can put the transmission there, both on the back of the transmission and on the transmission mount. engine aligned where I want it and then I can probably do mid plate brackets at that point and, uh, another big reason I'm leaving this engine in the car today is that it already has a dry oil pan so I can use it.
That to figure out how much room I have, Nelson is very close to being done with my big block Chevy, but he doesn't know what size oil pan we can put in it and obviously it will probably end up being something custom for this custom chassis, so it needs dimensions and I'm going to use Game overs Sunny Leonard Hemi to give it those dimensions because again, the Chevy block, so we'll continue here when we get to this place and I'll grab that piece of aluminum. I'll show you and then we'll go back to my house. Oh yeah.
Ryan not only had a middle plate but he also gave me brackets to go with it which is great so basically it's a frame bracket and then a brace to go underneath and we'll modify them to fit our stuff and if they don't They work, we'll make them ourselves, no problem, back to the lab. Every time I walk into Ryan's shop, I look at all the pro mods and everything in there and I go, oh, look how they put together the gas pedal, look how they put the transmissions together, look how they wired that up, they just You don't know what you don't know, so you can be with people who are better than you.
With this guy, that's the best on-the-job training there is. If there's one thing I've learned that took me a long time to learn, it's just close your mouth and open your ears and you'll get a lot better at Building Cars because you'll learn from the people around you. I was pretty stubborn as a kid, but I like to think I've gotten better at it as I've gotten older. Anyway, come back to my house, we'll pick this up there. made by accufab for sunny Leonard, used this on this engine when it was running naturally aspirated and with this throttle body on pump gas at 711 cubic inches with no turbos this thing made 1275 horsepower while it failed because it had a blown spark plug that we didn't know. approximately and uh 1275 on the gas pump is pretty amazing and probably would have hit 1300 if it hadn't been for this foreign shot, these are 5 16 fine threads.
I have them now, let's go to the hardware store. Yes, I have a vertical hardware store here. Stainless steel. grade five grade eight socket head standard metric hex head everything is here, well we need 5 16 24 fine thread nuts 3 8 24 5 16 is 24. There we go, boom, we have it in both regular and lock nuts, we don't need a lock nuts at this regular time will do oh my god this is amazing no more searching no more oh god we have it we have to go to the hardware store we have a mail order none of that I miss the middle plate this middle plate is built for something with a chassis tube here is where it would sit on the tubes here are the holes for the pegs I don't know if there is a left and a right side this one as you can see is basically for a model, it's not cut out for a flex plate or a steering wheel or anything, um, there's probably no wrong way to put this on the starter gear, go through it, this might work fine.
You may need a little more clearance for the starter gear, so there is plenty of pin engagement to get into. On the transmission bell we'll put four bolts here to hold it to the engine and then I might have to put the transmission in the car and then lower the engine and I'm not sure we can try it both ways, but I might have to do that, let me back to the hardware store, this really is one of the best things ever, so on the left is grade eight, in the middle is grade five, on the right is stainless steel, plus all the fasteners, like lock washers nuts which type of obviously we don't need metric for this we are making bell housing bolts that are 3 8 coarse thread so 3 8 with 16 threads per inch and grade 5 will do so well we have grade eight , we might as well use it all. correct 3 8 16.
An inch long will be fine actually it needs to be longer than that because we have a transmission so let's do one and a quarter three four five six and then we need some washers to go with those 3 8 washers and I'm just going to use flat washers for this. I don't know, I don't know if that will go there. I think I'll have to put the trans in first. I could do it because I doubt it. It's going to go in there as it is. I can't put it on racing ramps that put the car too high.
The hoist will never work, but it definitely needs to get on jack stands a little higher than it is because it's going to be hard to get to the transmission mount, that's the problem with working in the basement with low ceilings. You can't put the car too high because then the engine has to go very high but then it hits the air conditioning ducts. The car is too low. so you can't get under it to you know connect the transmission cross member so there it is okay I'm going to put the transmission on and then I'm going to lower the car back down that's what I'm going to do let's take Let's take a look to the problems we have here: the engine is not completely in the chassis.
You can already see where the cylinder head wants to go down just above the A-arm bracket and our dry sump pump is going to go in. the steering rack now, the dry sump pump is no big deal, you can reconfigure it and you can move it, but as far as putting the Hemi on the cart, the oil pan is still a foot off the ground and our exhaust ports go to land, which means our heads are going to land right on top of the control arms, an engine like this needs the frame rails to come out and pass like this engine would lend itself to a strut front, you know where it's mounted the strut outside the roll cage and not having arm mounts with the pivot points there, it's almost not even worth going any further.
I'm definitely not going to be able to lower this enough to get the engine into the transmission where it needs to be to build the Mid Plate Mount and then you can see this, there's the fender, there's the engine, like there's about 12 inches between the ground and the bottom of the oil pan, even if you were to lower this thing down, say nine inches and put three inches between the floor and the oil pan that doesn't put the intake manifold or whatever elbow and throttle body you're going to put on top of it under the fender, it just doesn't work if you lower this nine inches you'll get that intake roughly the same height as the fender, but then you have to have a full and an elbow on top of those feet of air, it's just not going to work, don't go with this , which sucks because I was really hoping to use this engine block for mockup, but because the heads are on it and because the oil pump is bolted to the dry sump, I'm not going to use this for mockups, so I have to get another engine block or Nelson, it's time I need that engine, turn it on buddy, send it, send it, let's do this.
Now I'm going to cut this. Look, the frame is coming out, possibly that part of the floor, possibly the entire floor. I don't know, I need to crawl under it and look how much space we have between the floor and the frame and what I gain by removing all this, uh, but first things first, C frame, bye, okay, step one, take the seat out, Step two, protect all the glass before you start throwing sparks. foreign now before we go really crazy uh I want to roll down the windows the passenger side window is up and also the rear side windows because the last time this car was outside was at the PRI show where we pushed it in and out and That was in Indianapolis in December so the windows were up so let's turn on our power windows when there's no battery in our car.
This is the Milwaukee M12 lithium battery from their garden variety. Looking at it from above you will see that it is shaped like a triangle there is a cell there is a cell here are some terminals the one on the left on this particular battery is your ground the right is your positive so I just have some basic spade terminals on some wire I will take the ground one and I'll connect it to ground frame of the car or the chassis of the car, the body of the car where I can and then the right one with my red wire.
Then I'll start testing the wires here, so here we go, that's down on the driver's side window, it's up and that window doesn't want to move very well, so we'll keep it down, that's good news. Now let's find the other windows, so in this black and white car our driver is in front and I were going to hook up and look for a wiring harness. Schematic, but everyone wanted to charge me for it and I was in a hurry and my wallet is up so I wasn't going to pay for it so I'm just going to use powers of deduction, the power of deduction, detective, detective, Sherlock, yeah, electric Sherlock, that is what.
Now I'm good, so let's again lean on our roll cage, which is well inside our frame, let's start hitting things until something magical happens, okay. I guess this fat one, who has a larger caliber than everyone else. has been powering the car, so that's two, four, six, eight wires left, four windows, so we just have to figure out the pairs, what does what power, oh yellow, not sure if I've been trying to go up or down On that one, let's try it. Green, okay, here we go. I'm going to go over there and try to save the driver's side window from the mess because it looks like it's starting to warp and the edge is falling off, it's started to come off that one, okay, let's do it. rolled down, come on, so green it looks like it's going to be with the passenger side down.
Yeah, okay, so the green one is passenger side down. I should write this because eventually I'll have to roll them up and the car probably won't be assembled yet. so let me get some paper and start taking my first notes on thisconstruction. I take a lot of notes to mix them up for my horrible memory. Okay, let's drop in, oh, that's cool, so the right rear window is like rocks on its triangular shape. that was nice, so tan, it's right behind down, let's try Orange, oh, okay Orange, let me turn this around. The orange makes the right front window or sorry, the orange makes the right rear window go up.
What is this? I really like how that window rotates as it goes up. and below, I see that that is sick. Green is right behind so let's make green again to bring it down now all of a sudden green doesn't want to bring it down look what's happening here now all of a sudden even though this was working before we gave power to Green, By simply arcing, maybe bypass some of the wiring and go directly to the source. Okay, so this interior panel would have had its own switch on its own wiring, so this green needs to go to it, so let's ground our battery go, maybe the colors will change again here, let's try, let's try a tan , come on, okay, we have it now, let's go to the other side, we have blue and pink and our connector is still here, so let's see if we can do something with pink, here we go, oh, it's stuck, let's try it again, then the Pink is down, that means blue is probably up there, come on, boom, okay, all of our windows are down and can be rolled down, leaving only the front windshield and rear on the screen. to cover and protect from sparks and people wonder why it takes so long to build cars like you've never done this before you know simple things like figuring out which wires go down the windows can be difficult and you know yeah I could have put a battery in this car except where the battery was no longer exists and the wiring harness on this car for the front half no longer exists so you know you have to do what you have to do and I googled the answer like it a lot of normal people would do and a lot of wiring diagrams for Cadillacs came out that you can buy, you know, but you can't do it quickly. finding the information, uh, Google is interesting now, what you could easily find on forums in the past through Google, now Google is sending you to places to spend money, not just the forums, so you know it's easy finding information from the early 2000s and you know, just 10 years ago, it's now been replaced by Facebook ads and ads for things to buy, like laminated wiring diagrams for a 1961 Cadillac, which I'll probably get sometime moment, but to be honest, most of this car, except for the dashboard and door wiring, everything is being replaced.
You know, I'm going to keep the original board. We will preserve the original doors. We will keep the glass. You know, we'll keep it Cadillac. We can, but the entire powertrain and most of the wiring will be replaced, so the laminated Cadillac wiring diagram is semi-useful but not completely right, y'all. They are called Dragon blankets. You can get them at wirecare.com. It is essentially a solder. blanket is fire resistant it is spark resistant they are a great way to protect things that you don't want to burn or mark by the welding process or the grinding process.
I really like them for protecting car windshields because cardboard can be a pain in the butt to work with to stay there, whereas I can throw the blanket there, put some clamps on the A-pillar and it will cover everything I need covered and it's easy to get in and out and out and it just saves time and when I'm not using this to protect car windshields, I usually use it to protect myself when I'm welding under a car, I'll crawl under it and get in there right away. nice and safe way as if you were going to do it.
I sleep and then Mig rolls right over my head and keeps me from melting because I'm usually in Vans. I'm wearing the wrong clothes. You know, I never went to school. I don't know what the right footwear is. I'm just not using it, you know, but things like this could mean the difference between a piece of slag going through your shoe or your jeans or whatever you wear on your body and if you have a roll cage, this is great because everything that I'm doing. What we're going to do is bring it here and put a clamp on it and then stretch it over there and do the same thing and this side is done.
These also come in many different sizes, so this smaller one we'll just place over the vent. window, okay, this is a Milwaukee cordless reciprocating saw and I'm going to use the blade of the Sawzall to get the meat out of here, you know most of it and then I'm going to go back in and finish it to the point where you probably won't be able to give yourself Realize this tube was welded unless there's something ugly behind it. I hope not. I don't think there is. Let me get some safety glasses. Thank you foreigner and we'll get this out of here. cut this length so that there is excess tube welded to our swing bar and I will cut it very carefully, finish it very carefully to the point where you won't even realize it was ever welded there, that's everyone's goal ways and I try to do it without putting too much heat on it so what I like to do is cut the tube as close as I can before I start hitting it with a fin disc or a grinder because that will put a lot of heat on the tube and you know it .
It will weaken it at some point if you overheat it, so I'll try to avoid doing that and then once it's out of the way I'll probably take a break. I have to be honest, it will be time for a beer at that point. you can see that this tube is close to the original. I used a Sawzall to cut the horizontal pipe that intersects here. I used the death wheel to finish the job and then used a flap disc to knock down all the weld. Now I need to finish. the tube and to do that I'm going to use this tube sanding tool from 525 Industries, you guys have seen this on the channel before.
It's an amazing tool, a little expensive I know, but it's made in America and I like to support little Americans. business, so if you're looking to make your fabulous work look professional, if that's your goal, if you don't want tiger stripes on your tube, these are the steps you need to follow, at least that's how I do it and this is the way to finish the job, this will sand the tube evenly from here to here every which way or at least wherever you can get the tool and it will make the look of this tube much nicer and much more professional.
Look at this, this is it. it's a belt sander that I can fit to various diameter pipes and you can put it on a drill, you can put it on a right angle grinder, you can put it on a lot of things, but look what happens to this tube, look what kind It looks choppy and that's because I was sanding this direction with the flap disc. Look what happens when I finish work with this exterior. You can see there are still some high and low spots here, but look, it's already better after less than a minute of sanding.
I'm going to put a new belt on it, go on, there's a high spot, this is where the old tube was welded on and this is high, and instead of going with a fin disc like this, which will scratch the tube and probably won't. . It's not going to give me a uniform finish. I'll continue with this tool and eventually this area will look like this anyway. I don't think you want to watch me grind and sand for the next two and a half hours, which is what it's going to take to finish this part and the other three tube sections here, so that's going to end this video.
I'll see you very soon thanks for hanging out with me as always. I especially appreciate it to you guys who went to fsmgarage.com and bought the new merch, I'm getting a ton right now. See you next time. More foreign sandy.

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