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MY NEW YEAR'S EVE OUTFIT IS DONE - THISISKACHI DIY

Mar 22, 2024
Hello guys and welcome back to my channel. I don't know if they are already in the winter season. Spirit, but I definitely am. The winter markets are opening in a couple of days and I'm super excited. as one of my favorite seasons of the

year

, if not the favorite season of the

year

, and that means it's time to make some festive

outfit

s. Today we're going to make a really cool and easy A-line dress for New Year's Eve in At least that's the theme I'm going to use, obviously you can use this dress, this pattern for any other festive Christmas occasion, for any other whatever you are celebrating.
my new year s eve outfit is done   thisiskachi diy
I'm making this for New Year's Eve, so I'm choosing a lot of gold fabrics. and haberdashery stores I also have ornaments and things like that. I have no decorations. I have gold trim. I was hoping to find some kind of fringe that I can use and I would like to make this dress something like Wendy's inspired, but I didn't. I didn't find anything so I had to do something else, but I'm super happy with my plan B. I guess that's what we'll do today before we start this video, although I'm on my way to 100,000 subscribers and I want to read. before the end of 2022, that would mean 1K in a year, just over a year, which is crazy, many of you are excited to watch my videos every week and really seem to like my patterns, and I can't even .
my new year s eve outfit is done   thisiskachi diy

More Interesting Facts About,

my new year s eve outfit is done thisiskachi diy...

Put it into words, what a great honor it is, thank you so much, if you can subscribe below and hit the bell to get notified every time I post and maybe we'll reach the goal. of 100K before 2023 starts, that would be a great end to 2022 for me, that would mean a lot to me, so thank you very much, let's start with the video of this dress, we are going to have a very, very A-line. I don't . I don't know about the bodice, it's not really a bodice, but the dress will be a line, it won't have a waist or anything like that.
my new year s eve outfit is done   thisiskachi diy
Instead, we'll have details around the neckline, so I have these panels that will sit. At the neckline they will measure five centimeters once everything is sewn and I chose this beautiful gold fabric. Oh you can't really see it on camera, that's a shame because it looks amazing in person. I don't know if you can. Whether that makes it better, I really don't know, but it's so shiny, it's so golden. I love it, it's so amazing, it has letters that are metallic threads, that's why it's so shiny and I'm so excited to use this fabric. I have it for the neckline, the front and the back and then for the interlining I'm going to use a satin so I have a pattern piece for the straps that is 60 centimeters long and three centimeters wide, you can use this if you want. you can make really small straps like these.
my new year s eve outfit is done   thisiskachi diy
I won't be wearing this because I thought wearing a satin sash like this would look great too. This one is about two millimeters long, so it could look very, very elegant if you have it crisscrossed. On the back which this pattern is basically made for, that's my solution for the straps and then on top of that, I have this trim here that I thought could look very, very pretty once sandwiched between the two fabrics, so I have this beautiful satin here. and then the lurex, this is actually a mix of rayon and lurex here, very, very pretty, and then having this here on the neckline at the top and bottom of the panel, I thought it could look very, very pretty and more festive , since I didn't find the Bangs I wanted to use, so I thought this might be a good alternative.
One thing I have to think about while sewing is that it's not stretchy at all, so you might want to use a little more for the width of this one. it's a little bit stretchy so it's not too small basically and I'm not going to like this, you know, it eliminates any kind of movement that the tension might have, so it's something I have to work with, obviously, this pipe is super optional. You don't need to use this, you can embellish the panel however you want, you can use the same fabric as the skirt if you want, so it looks like, say, a full satin dress, just interfacing the entire panel. pieces out of sight and facing each other and you should be good to go, so I don't see any problem with that as I really want it to be a New Year's Eve dress.
I thought this would be a good alternative and then in All in all, this is probably going to look very, very nice, so what I'm going to start with is the panel, both the lining and the outer fabric, which come together very easily. I put the seams in different places so that there aren't two seams on top of each other which would create a lot of bulk, so for the lining I have the center front as a seam and then the side seams as seams and for Fashion Fabric I have a seam where the straps sit and then the back piece is one piece and then the front neckline is one piece, so to put this together we're just going to put together the right sides of the specific pattern pieces for the fascia fabric, the two back pieces into the front piece and then for the lining we are going to join the side seams with the right sides together and then last but not least the center front with the right sides together we are going to iron everything open so that it's super flat and we're not going to have any problems with bulk, so now that both panels are

done

, the lining and the outer fabric, I'm going to add the binding to both the top and bottom seam so that the seam of the panel and the next seam on the outer fabric and I'm going to use my zipper foot on the inseam to join them together because I figure that since it also has room for the zipper teeth, it will work well with this binding here to have a line Very, very tight seam here.
See how I'm going to do that here in the corners. I'm going to have to cut the binding at the corners, so I'm going to do that right there as well on the top line of my outside and to sew it up. on the face like the Fashion Fabric panel on my face. I'm not going to use my zipper foot because I tried it and it doesn't guide both fabrics at the same speed I guess so it's like curling the bottom and the top is stretching so it's not level so I'm going to Using a single sided foot, since it's not that important to have the face very close to my piping sewing edge, I guess it should be fine.
This worked super well, I'm very happy about it and we can continue piecing the skirt together. I don't really know what to call them since they're not really skirts, they start up here and just go down and basically perform. like a skirt and all but it's also not like a dress so if you know what it's called put it in the comments below because I'm trying to learn and that's something I don't really know yet so anyway, come on Let's start putting that together, we have the front piece and the back piece, don't worry about this pattern mess.
I made a mockup and had to change some things. I have my two back pieces and my front piece. that's folded over and we're just going to gather the side seams right sides together and here you can see my beautiful satin that I'm very happy with. This is a thicker satin that is perfect, it is so perfect, let's take our back piece. and put the right sides together and close the side seam so everything is neat and tidy. Then I'm going to sew with an overlock. I'll iron the seam allowance on the back pieces and now it's time to attach the panel to the bottom of the dress so that Since I have the trim here now, my plan is for the bottom seam, the panel seam, to be sewn as close as possible to this edge.
I'll use my foot on one side and trust that the seam allowance is exactly one centimeter so Can you figure out how to make this work? I have some notches on my piece so I can sew the side seams together, for example, it's probably not the worst idea to do that and pin it in place because for my test piece, this thing here is on the bias at the back. panel seam so it tends to stretch and if you have your notch in your piece, if you find it, you'll know exactly where to put it and then you'll know how much length you have to put into that seam, as you can see, it's a little bit. stretched, which is fine, we can make it work by sewing it because we'll have the satin on the bottom and, you know, it'll machine move while the top side that has the trim on it, so it doesn't give at all. on the zipper foot right here in the corners here I have to cut it and I'm going to cut right towards the trim there otherwise I won't be able to sew these pieces because I have a tip here and this one needs to be put together like this so I guess this It's very drastic advice, but that's how it's supposed to be.
I'm going to find my seam line here at the tip and I'm going to mark it so you can Look at it, it's basically a centimeter from both seams and where they meet is exactly where we need to put this point right where I cut. I'm going to use a needle to mark the point and that will be pinned there. Also, I'm just going to use one needle to guide me and then I'm going to open up the petal as much as I need to so that the seam allowances match up since they're both a centimeter and then I can pin this in place, same goes to one side here just like that and then I can use this pin here just to temporarily pin these stitches together so I can sew better.
I will remove them all. as you sew and then this here, since it's a curve, you may need to cut it to let it open a little bit so it fits better, it probably won't be necessary since it's on the bias and then we'll continue doing the same thing. method here on the center front this time is the other way around, so we have to cut the skirt piece, but I'm also going to mark my seam line so I know exactly where my center front is, it seems to be further from the left than it would be. which I anticipated, but that's where it is and that point here should exactly match our center front here on the panel like right there and now I can also go ahead and rotate it so the seam allowances match up.
I need to cut the skirt piece center front or to the right towards the needle so this time we can turn the black fabric so that the seams or seam allowances match up here as well like this and then I'll use the needle. here in the middle to fix this stitch in place here so that it doesn't move and then we repeat the same thing for the other side and we can sew it with a foot on one side very carefully, okay, that's what it looks like. It looks really very pretty. I am very happy with it.
I think it would be the best option to iron all the seam allowances on the panel because it is then covered by the end facing from the bottom of the panel. The seam with the pipe is the one that is not very close to the pipe, it will also hide it, so we are going to have like two professionals for that, as you can see now, it looks very, very nice and neat, whereas if we had to iron this on the dress you will see the difference this is better and now we can put our straps on.
I waited on these straps for now until now basically because I want this pastel pink to cover the straps, so once it's flipped to the right side, this is going to cover the straps like this and I wanted the gold to continue onto the straps. I didn't want it like that. The interruption here didn't like it, so I did this and we can put our straps here. I just added like a centimeter seam allowance so I can put it up to the edge of the seam, but I have to measure from the seam line here a centimeter up and that's where I'll like my strap to stop if a strap is coming. kind of like cardboard, it has these edges, just quickly iron it on, now it's easier to do this as once it's on the dress it won't be flat anymore, now this will go all the way up here to where we have our strap notch right there now without twisting this.
I'm going to pin this in place here in the notch basically on the other side since it's going to crisscross and I'm going to do the same thing for this and now once. this is flipped, it's going to have this cross on the back, it's going to look very, very nice, now we can put this in place quickly before we do that, I'm going to rivet the bottom edge of the front panel because we're not going to have such access anymore. easy, we'll probably cover it and put it on the inside, but I'm not sure yet, so stay safe, then I'm sorry and we'll cover that edge too.
Now we can join the right sides of the lining and the panel and the first thing I'm going to do is join the points where we have the straps so you can see here that the lining doesn't match the outer fabric, this is how it's supposed to be, don't Worry, so I'm going to line everything up and then use my one-sided foot again just like I did for the bottom seam here, the panel seam. I'm going to sew both pieces together and then we can close the back, turn everything around. right sides out and the dress is ready and I'm really excited to see how it's going to look weird so before we turn everything inside out we're going to cut the seam allowance especially here at the edge here and as I can see where are the straps.
I kind of liked it like I did a couple of stitches on the top so they're secure in place and don't tear because we don't want them to. cut the seam allowance here as well quite drastically so that it's smooth once it's turned out and here in the center. The front we're also going to cut so that it's open andit looks better. Let's cut the seam here so you know it's easier for the fabric to lay flat since it's a curve. The same thing goes to this side which should either and now we can turn the whole thing over using the straps to highlight the edges here and as you can see it looks super, super neat the same goes for this side and I think I'm going too to add a top stitch on the sew here just to secure the strap even more in place now we can iron this before we sew this face like here we can do it this way or right on top we're going to close the center back but it's better iron now when you know it's still flat on the table the dress instead of being a tube and it's pretty good since we have the trim the face won't be visible at all so it doesn't matter how I sewed the seam. all because you won't see it since the piping is in place, however I'm still going to iron or at least try to iron the seam gap a little bit to the opposite side so it's the last step or like the second. last step we can sew this together now I'm going to open the view again so we can sew this seam in one go that way it looks better because we have this seam here hidden on top we have to be very careful that the piping is one on top of the other because it is a pipe that has a shape, this can be a little tricky, they will probably end up placed next to each other, which is also fine, but make sure they match. top, the same goes down here and then we're just going to sew the remaining center to the hem, so this and then we also overlock it and we can iron it anywhere now we're going to iron. the seam here in the center back where the panel is I'm going to iron the seam open so I'm going to cut right below the bottom piping at the seam allowance so I can iron this seam here open and then the rest is Passed Through high together foreign so that when I put those wrong sides together it's as flat as possible and I also try to match the pipes.
I don't know if it worked, oh yeah, here where it's very visible it worked very well and here it didn't. that's visible, but one is hiding behind the other, but it also seems fine, so I'm fine with that. Let's quickly rivet the rest of the center back seam here on the outside. I'm not going to do that because I really don't want to. Don't mind the facing going this way, so I'm going to add a top stitch. You can do it by hand if you just want to fix the siding in place in a few spots, you can also do it like here here and maybe. somewhere in the back or you can just do a quick top stitch that you can do very visibly as decoration or you can just do it a little bit hidden.
I'm going to take my zipper foot now and sew right in the middle here basically. where I've already sewn the panel into the panel seam basically like on top of the piping so it's completely hidden and that way I can lock my lining in place all around. I have to be careful though because that's what I was talking about. At first, my zipper is not like guiding the fabric evenly through the machine, the bottom fabric puckers while the top fabric stretches a little, so I will have to move my top fabric, the lurex one, with a tool to through the machine to have a smooth finish at the end, but that's what I'm going to do or at least I'd like to try to do it now that everything above is

done

, as you can see here, the coating is fixed. instead pretty evenly around we can go ahead and fold the dress.
I already went ahead and finished the hem. I don't think it's necessary, although that's why I didn't tell you, since I'm going to do a folded hem. so, like five millimeters folded inwards twice and then I'm going to sew it up to have, as you know, the fanciest hammer I can make and let's iron this hem so I found out that's the easiest way to iron a curvy hem if you just you stretch the hem even more curved than it is, that way you can flatten any of these and any of these wrinkles here and it worked pretty well for me every time and with that the dress is completely finished, very excited about this one and that's it. for today's video I hope you enjoyed it it was a super super fast soap I'm very excited it took me three hours something like that and I liked it I made this piping obviously you don't have to make this dress without all the special things it's a very quick sew, super easy, beginner friendly, if you ask me I mean it has the corners, but if you work carefully, in my opinion this is doable for all levels of sewing, so if you are interested the pattern link is Below is my Etsy store, you can find many patterns in it.
You might find something else if you're not ready for this one yet. I have a wide variety of different levels, from beginner to super expert, so go ahead and check it out. and while you're down, hit the subscribe button and hit the bell so you'll get notified every time I post, help me reach 100,000 before the end of 2022. It would be awesome to use, that's my goal for this year. Thank you so much for all your help and support here on my YouTube, on my Instagram, and of course in my St. Store. That's amazing. Thank you so much.
Check out the links below for all my social media, Instagram as well as Pinterest and such. I'm uploading a ton of tips and tricks about my projects every week, so you'll find some for this dress there too. Thank you so much for watching and I'll see you next Sunday. Bye guys, okay, foreigner.

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