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Ford 7.3L Diesel Injector Rebuild (2 of 2)

Mar 29, 2024
Alright, what I have now are all my clean pieces. This is the entire lower half or fuel side of the

injector

. This is the top half of the oil side of the

injector

. All the old pieces that had come out the top. Here is the outside. rings and copper roof washer below this line, these are all internal parts, there are three internal rings or the

rebuild

kit comes with the new springs, the new check balls on the new screw, so all the old parts They are outside. I'm ready to assemble at this point, so the first thing I'm going to assemble is take the nozzle here and install the needle into it, that is, take the body and then I'm going to guide it up so now we're installed there at this point.
ford 7 3l diesel injector rebuild 2 of 2
I'm going to go ahead and place this on the fixture so we can assemble the rest nicely, so next I have my two small pins, my two shorter pins are going to install nicely, so next I'm going to Place my barrel and basically I'm going to seat it on the pins, that's it, you just put it on the pins and what I do is I twist the bottom and make sure everything rotates nice so that the Next thing I'm going to put in is this guy here below of the spring and you can clearly see where the springs were so that's the nice thing and then you can see where it's been on the needle so I want the shiny outside or the spring is facing up so I'll drop it and sometimes it will flip over on you, so I'm going to set it up again here, nice cut at that time, so I'm going to pull out of my new pieces, take my new spring and I'm going to drop it like this, the pin that runs down the center of the spring and I'm going to drop it. , I'll take a quick look in there, okay, then I'll move on. and put my two pins in, okay, now I have to install one of the control balls and then next I'm going to install this little one here, there are marks on it from where it was sitting in there, so I'm going to face them the same way right there, then my top piece here okay, now when I get to that point, a little

diesel

fuel container here, my next piece here is the band and the control ball, so what I'm going to do is install the control ball and then I'm going to install the band on the control ball you just want to make sure it's seated on that control ball it looks good so what I'm going to do with this is soak it in

diesel

fuel and Why soak that in diesel fuel this spring?
ford 7 3l diesel injector rebuild 2 of 2

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ford 7 3l diesel injector rebuild 2 of 2...

This pin, they're both soaking in there and then what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring this in. I'm here and there are holes on the bottom, so we're going to line them up by spinning the mouthpiece to make sure everything rotates around each other and does. I have two more pins, so that will be the fuel side for now. I'm going to assemble the oil side in general, so as not to do it. I didn't hit him or hit him on the floor. I haven't put these pieces in yet. I kind of start up my oil side, but we're going to go ahead and put them in there, so that's it, that's the fuel side, right there, the oil side.
ford 7 3l diesel injector rebuild 2 of 2
I have the top half of the body that we need to install the O-ring on, so we'll do that next. I have a photo that isn't sharp and won't pierce this O-ring just to help me get it in, so I'm going to take the O-ring and slide it in and then use the photo to try to straighten it out on the inside. You have to be patient, it only takes a few minutes. to get it to where it needs to be okay, so now my Oh ring is in its groove inside, so I've got a little container of oil, basically I just want to get that O ring, put some oil on that O ring over there. then I'll take the intensifier piston, but I'll take it and this end will go towards the open end, that's where I'll be able to see a little bit of oil as well.
ford 7 3l diesel injector rebuild 2 of 2
I'll just set it up. right on top there and then with your hand who will gently push it until you feel it fit into the O ring and then it will go down until it bottoms out and what we also have is on the upper body that we have. the other ring to install as well so it's installed at this point okay with that installed we'll go ahead and attach it to the bottom half that's on the fitting and I go ahead and put a little bit of motor oil around that O-ring. and at the bottom you have two holes that your pins will catch, so the first thing you do is you'll feel it drop right there, so now when I twist the bottom, I know I'm engaged at that point, so what?
I'm going to do a little bit of downward pressure here to get the threads started, my torque wrench is set to 75 foot-pounds and there we are, so the top and bottom are now made in one piece. I'm going to go ahead and soak. this in oil also slides down and then the kit came with a new spring, the same new oil bit, drop it right now, when I'm going to put the clamp on and basically I have this bumpy thing. shape here, this is how I pointed everything to the front while I was putting it back together, so I'm going to go and set it up for now, so I showed you how to get this out.
This is the third oring that's on the body or one of the three that's in here, so we're going to reassemble these pieces before we put the next piece on, so first thing is going to be the O-ring. My pick is not sharpened, so my O-ring is inside at this point. I'm going to take a little bit, let's say we have a little bit of oil on that O-ring and then this guy here with his washer has a little bit of wear on it, so I'm going to point it up and from the bottom side, so the side that doesn't It has the countersunk screws is where it goes, she's sitting there, so my four screws are already here, with the hole facing what I call forward, that's how I oriented the injector during disassembly and reassembly with my hole The clamping thread has my usual shape here and I placed it right on top, right there.
I kind of just started with the four because I'm going to hold down the pressure on it because it's spring loaded, so I've got them. So it started what I have here and you can apply pressure to tighten them, they don't have to be, you know, it can end there, but what I end up doing is just a little wrench on my wrench, you know? I hold that tool and I turn it a little bit there and put a little bit more on it, okay, so next I have my new screw that came with the kit and we'll put it in right there.
What I'm going to do is take that spacer and just pick one of the flat edges. I'm taking the solenoid screws and starting them there and all I'm doing is using that's kind of a reference line because this guy here rotates, so I want to get it as straight as possible once I get it to talk. Now I'm still going to hold it with the wrench. It looks pretty good. Take this off. Now the kit I use comes with shims to fit where it is underneath. here and then also on your solenoid, so what we're looking for with the kit that I use is, you know, mm and I have a very loose mm there, ultimately, based on the kit that I buy at the end of this. what you want is by the thousands and you can see now I can't get four thousandths on that so we're going to take it apart and I'm going to put a shim on the bottom of this mm-hmm and in your instructions it has a I've predetermined the size wedge that I'm going to want to place here.
Put it back or we'll measure it and we can finish the assembly process. One thing you want to make sure is that the shims don't stick together because they are tiny, tiny. God, since I'm putting my wedge here, it depends on your children, since I had mm, they are the kit or it depends on your permission here, if you couldn't put the mm here, the children will tell you to put. X amount, if you have mm there, it will tell you to put in a different amount. I've put mm below this. This should be my final adjustment here.
I'm going to tighten it, I'm going to measure it again and the wrench is just to keep it from turning so I can wind it up, I just need to get the screw tight. I'm happy with that so now I take my four thousand that come in the shim kit and now I can get my four over there since I send them under I'm going to shim between these two pieces here so I'm going to add shims here this one type here has grooves on the bottom to allow the oil that collects here to spread out, so you just want to make sure. that those slots are down when you put it back together so when I put my shins on which the kit tells me I need these three thousandth shims here, I put my four screws in my annoying cell and then I put my shins on those screws and then match the shims with a spacer and again make sure you have raised just a chin, make sure they are not stuck, ok again, with my drain slots going down, now my shims are stuck, they can't go anywhere and basically I'm going to take my cell upset with my spacer, my shims are in the middle, I'm just going to put it right on top, go ahead and start with this by hand and again, they don't have to be very tight, I mean, I just get them. comfortable I feel like I have a better feel with this here doing it this way you want to use a wrench that's fine so now all we have left to do is install the external o-rings so we have the metal C clip here just slide it, you just have to work, work until we're on our last beat here so that guy moves forward first so he'll be there and then we'll have a flat summer. gray summer black a flat o-ring that we just have to work on.
I try not to roll it up, it will spring back into shape again and I have the black ring oh the flat one I hate to call it ringless but it has flat sides so I have I have the blue one here it will go in that slot too all three are fine so we have four pink ones, they'll go on this o-ring here, a little bit harder to get in, so it'll be there and then the end. Ring the orange here and then before we install this into the head, a little bit of oil on those O-rings, so the last thing we need to put on is our copper washer, it can go either way if you look at your copper washer, depends.
The way you look at it, one side has two raised areas, one side has one raised area because it says the orientation doesn't matter, you can put it either way. I always put the raised area towards the cup of my injector and I will put some in as well. a little bit of grease just to keep it in place, I mean you have to force it in, but as you install it on the head you want it to get stuck by pushing it all the way down, touch the grease. I'm going to clean up the excess there that's a finished 7.3 diesel injector ready to install now at the beginning of the video one thing I didn't do was knock this guy down you know it's full of carbon the tip when I took it out it's all dirty I always take First remove all my outer rings and delete this.
There are two ways to do this: take a razor blade and go between the copper washer and the bottom of the injector and just work your way around it. A small knife will do the same. thing to get this guy out of there, then start the injector disassembly procedure and that's it, thanks

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