How to Install Vinyl Flooring , Laminate Flooring and Hardwood

Hello and welcome to Home Renovation, the YouTube channel designed to help you renovate your homes and get professional results. Today we're talking about four different types of

flooring

install

ation and we'll cover the entire tactic here, every technique, every material, every tool, every cost and when. We're done, you'll be able to choose which floor project is right for you, and stay tuned because you might be surprised which one will be your new favorite. I think we are going to increase the value of this kitchen. it's not acceptable and that's money in the bank here's where it gets funny that's kind of old this is really brutal i love it it seems like the biggest industry in north america today is the

flooring

industry let's face it everyone has floors that are I'm not happy with it for many different reasons, whether it's performance, quality or sound, or simply because it's old and ugly, so everyone wants to

install

new floors and there are a lot of products on the market.

How do you figure out what is best for you? This video is all about that, we are going to cover all the new trends so we will start with some luxury plank flooring. Now this is not just a simple

vinyl

tile, this is a luxury

vinyl

with a cork backing, this is a high end price and you're probably looking at three to four dollars per square foot for this stuff and then we'll move on to a floor luxury plank

laminate

. Well now this is a really amazing high end material product, here you can build kitchens and everything else. on top of this floor and it will last 40 or 50 years, the trick to this again is the four to five dollar per square foot price range that it reaches there and then we'll go back to the traditional click shop

laminate

now, whether it's click laminate or click final, the box store stuff is quick and easy to install and all of these videos have one thing in common: they all just measure and cut, but there are a ton of installation techniques you'll need, so let's go a Let's go over all those things with you and the last thing we're going to show you is the

hardwood

floors.

Now I know a lot of people might think that

hardwood

floors are a little out of the toolbox, but trust me, watch the video. Make sure you take all of that information because at the end of the day, if you know how to measure and cut, you can install hardwood floors and no matter which of these products you choose, chances are you'll need to rent a tool anyway. At some point, so don't be afraid to buy a nice hardwood floor. You might be surprised which one is your new favorite. This will be luxury vinyl or luxury laminate.

Will you go with the old standby and just go for the click stuff? because you know it will be quick and easy, it won't cost you a fortune, maybe in a few years you can exchange it for something else. Are you going to go all out and opt for that beautiful three-quarter inch hardwood floor that will last? forever you decide your budget your house you chose the floor that is good for you let's get started so in today's video we are going to install a new plank flooring system and I have a trick for you it's not MDF this is not a laminate this is vinyl yes this is an all vinyl floor and comes with a super quiet gloss texture cork backing so if you are looking for that type of installation stay tuned there have been a lot of changes in the flooring industry in recent times 20 years.

Let's face it, the old standard of carpet everywhere and maybe the wood tiles in the bathroom are gone, new products are coming out, it seems like every six months to a year and again we have another one here, this is a vinyl plank . Now many of you may have seen vinyl planks available at your local home improvement store or at your local Costco, this is not your vinyl plank that you will find there, this is the premiere of Turley's Everwood, it is a brilliant series, the material It costs about five to six dollars a square foot so be careful if you are looking for a floor that will last a long time this is a good option for you if you are looking for a quick fix it is probably out of your price range now when Going to install a floor like this, you're going to want to keep two things in my prep and then in the prep, okay, it all comes down to how clean your floor is.

You'll never be able to remove the dirt from under a floating floor once you've started, so you'll always want to vacuum, sand down any patches, and "When you're working in the room, have it swept and vacuumed, then check the floor to see if there are squeaks and screws. Have the drill handy as you go. If you hear a squeak on the floor, stop what you're doing and take some time. Put in some extra screws. because you don't want your floor to squeak when you're done, that would be almost impossible to fix. Hmm, now I have seen many installation videos related to this type of product or different plank flooring and they are all kind. to follow the same theme, if you have seen them, they have their little clip system, they have little wedges that you place around the perimeter of the room you do your best to keep things in order and to be honest with you I have tried I installed it years ago and it drove me crazy so what I did was develop a better system and I will share it with you first.

You have a photo that, of all the ones you want, in most cases you will execute this parallel. with the longest wall in the room in this particular location, it is an open concept main floor so we can run two different options for the client to discuss. He likes this direction, so we will do what the client says next. Get out of your confidence. laser and at both ends of the room you want to measure the wall at some point or another something healthy like three inches, well you can do it here three inches and here's why instead of using shims I'm going to put this laser level levels my mark on both ends of the room, if you're working alone, just put something on the other end where the mark is to help you identify when you're in that spot, there we go, BAM, now what I want.

I want to do just check the measurement along the wall wherever I go and I'm noticing that most of my measurements are pretty consistent, it's a little tighter here about the beautiful room, so now I know the wall It's relatively straight, there's a little bit of an arc here, so when I put the first boards down I want to make sure that I don't slide under the baseboard, but just touch the baseboard here, it'll open up a little bit of space on both ends and then I'll be good because I'll use a quarter round to cover it when I'm done.

If you're like me, you like to do things quickly, you don't want to waste time. What I do is just start. I tap the baseboard, drop it, my first board is ready when I get to the vents on my heating register. Now of course they have the click system with these floors so it's brilliant, no need to hammer everything once you put it together, you're done. I just mark right on the floor when I go to mark my heating register vents. I prefer to drill a hole when I'm done and then go back and use my jigsaw to cut it out because that helps maintain the integrity of everything. of this together because when you start you know we all know it's hard enough to keep things straight as they are, so now what I'm going to do is pull out my handy dandy tool.

I'm going to cut a few more boards because I like to build three or four rows at a time, this helps keep everything straight and square and you're not always running around and worrying about closing gaps and making adjustments, so here we go. We are ready to cut our boards. In general, you always want to cut from the left side because that's going to go under the molding, so I want to have a board that's about 3/4 and then 1/2 and then maybe something like around it. 2/3 is fine, that's a good way to start keeping the joints a good distance apart.

Now there are different ways to cut these things. Read the instructions online that say: use a knife, let's try that and then just score it. God, that's not easy, hit him again, that looks dangerous. You can use a circular saw or you can do what I did, grab my laminate floor cutter and see if it works. Yeah, I don't know why the online instructions don't include laminate flooring. cutters, but it worked brilliantly, we'll be using that system from now on, so what we're doing here is just a unit click system, okay, let's put these things together, it's really quite simple, the idea is to just get the first one .

A couple of rows, okay, now you can see because this is tongue and groove on both sides, you can't just push it in with your hands, so there are different techniques. There's this technique where you can do a whole row of the room like this and then. you can put them together and you can leave them down and that works if you're working in a room that's going to be 20 feet long and I told him that unfortunately the systems are not going to work for you trying to maneuver all those boards. At the same time it will take three or four people, so if you are working alone, unfortunately, all you are left with is a block to hit.

For me, the best way to make a hitting block is to simply take a piece of the floor and cut it off. Reduce the size, okay, now I have both edges I can work with, so here's the other way to install the board. Both joints do the short side first and here's why this vinyl and cork has a tongue and groove, if you can look. that this is a very long piece of floor, I put it down and then I started punching from the other side, it takes a lot of force to force that because there is a lot, a lot of resistance because of the type of texture we are dealing with. now this is going to work a lot like my laminate flooring video a little bit of tap just to seal the joint it seals nice and good ok you don't have to get the daylights out of this just a little tap and then all these together. are locked now you will see that the floor moves all over the place when we do this and this is where the trick comes in so that you don't have this problem, usually when you are doing a plank floor the problem What you find is that everything It moves while you use the click system because you have to use a certain amount of force to make it work, so these floating floors tend to slide around the room to prevent that from happening with vinyl.

You can actually screw it on. I would recommend every six inches, right near the edge where your quarter round will cover it. Make sure you have it lined up very well. You don't want to commit too much to this program and then move on. then just grab some screws for each microphone when you're done, you can take the screws out later so you don't have any bulges when putting the cable down, look at that thing closing up, really nice, beautiful, good. This covers most of the basics on how to install this flooring, of course you know when you get to the door transitions make sure you can slide it under the casing or install the casing after the flooring, that's always my preference and one more.

The thing about this floor, this particular product, this company has developed a tool for the main issue, that's extra time. If you have a damaged piece of floor like this, you want to remove it, they have a special stretcher, it's like a rib spreader and you can leave it. on the floor and you can separate the floor and then you can lift the board and then reinstall a new one. This is why the manufacturer suggests that you have space around the outside of the floor so that it is not for expansion and contraction purposes, but for maintenance purposes, it is okay, so when you are done making your floor this way, make sure to take the screws out because one day in the future you might have to make the call and then I can come in with my rib spreader and take care of that.

Damage As a quick note, it doesn't come in all boxes, but there are instructions and all other recommendations here. One of the recommendations is to place a 6 mil polyethylene, not as a moisture barrier, but rather to help make it easier in case we ever have to do maintenance, so on the floral slide we have installed the luan of a quarter inch, which is a really smooth surface and we won't see the need for plastic here, so don't do it if you find it necessary. Another question you might have is why it is cork. Can I put this directly on my concrete floor in the basement?

The answer is yes, you don't need plastic when you put the cork in, so make sure it's not a new pour and that it's solid. surface in one of the previous videos, we actually leveled the floor around where we had cut the concrete and that was necessary because you want to have a nice flat surface for this to continue, you don't want this to go up and down. because then it makes it very difficult for the locking system to activate, there you have it folks, that's how you install it on a vinyl floor, place it, click, tap, repeat hundreds and hundreds of times and of course, If you need one of these cutters, go to the A local construction store will rent it to you, it is a great investment, but if you are only building one or two stories in your house,so rent the tool for thirty or forty dollars, you can do most of the house in one day, it's definitely worth it. the inversion keeps the dust down, keeps your running going back and forth to the saw, and will keep you from cutting your hand on that knife because that was ridiculous.

Hi, I'm Jeff from Ottawa Design and Construction. I'm here. To give you a little tutorial on how to install laminate flooring, we are talking about a medium density fiberboard or high density fiberboard laminate, traditionally this came out as a picture of three different pieces of wood, it has developed a lot over the years. years and now we have what looks like a wide plank floor. Now this is a flooring product from Tarly. It has fabulous quality. The joints in this click come together and are very tight. You won't see gaps over time. There are many. There are a lot of products on the market, with many different price ranges, from a dollar per square foot to five or six, so you get what you pay for, so if you have a ten year project and are just looking to do something clean so you can You can sell your house by all means, you know, go to the cheaper end, but if you're building a new one like us, we hope this flat lasts a long time, this will be a 30 to 40 year flat.

We also installed a bar on top so we can't cut any corners with the quality, so since we're not cutting any corners with the quality, we're also using a high quality bottom pad. This is a very thick piece of rubber. has a vapor barrier, it's always that vapor barrier on the base floor, this product here is good for basement floors and residential use if it really is laminate flooring and you're in a situation where you're like in a condo or apartment you have to get a different floor that eliminates the sound. There is a sound transmission rating on that bottom pad.

It's a little more expensive, but generally speaking, if you go to a wholesaler, you can get this type of product for less than 20 cents a square foot, it's not. a big expense so of course get the good one, if you go to the hardware store you will probably pay three to four times as much but never spend anything cheap so the bottom of the pad is the gold side that has a adhesive strip so that when you make the next join you can tape the pad to this little piece of leftover aluminum foil, so I always install the pad in the right direction so you can add the next layer, we basically just roll it up and cut it . to fill the space now this room is a little dusty so let's leave some footprints how wonderful that is okay so the way I do it is I just push it against the wall find my mark roll it towards me cut in both directions get that out of my way I'm just going to shoot it under the drywall for now so it holds up nice and we're ready to go so the basic tools we need for this project are pretty simple.

You must have the pencil and the tape measure. hammer this is what most people don't have the dun dun dun cutting tool this is the next generation in laminate floor cutters it's also good for commercial vinyl tile this thing here has an extension on the arm multiplies your leverage by which works like a guillotine principle, it simply squishes into the space and snaps the board right into the cut line. The good thing about this is that one person can operate it without having to go up or down and it does not create dust on this type of floor if you are working for the before and you are using a huge amount of dust of your size, so one of the biggest drawbacks was that you always had to cut outside or you had to wear a mask or you would just get sick and have a sinus infection and all I learned the hard way, but this tool is worth its weight in gold.

I think it cost me about four hundred dollars. It has been through the mill several times. Still works. I haven't sharpened it yet. I don't have anything bad to say about it. I'm going to give you a demonstration because I'm going to need a small piece to start with here, so when I start building the floor I want to cut just a first piece about five or six inches from the end and I'm going to use this as my nailing block, okay. , because you will discover that installing this floor is not an easy task. If you do it alone, we'll go from left to right.

I will recommend that you start with the first row and the second row with half. compensate, so cut your board ahead of time, no need to measure, okay here we go, like any other type of flooring you want to have, pay attention to its aging, which is where your joints meet now, traditionally, this is blocks nice and simple, right? align it and move it, click into place, you heard the click, that's the sound of a good installation, you can see we have it installed so that it slides under the baseboard, we don't want to start against the wall right away.

If you want to start here, let me show you why if you are working alone or even if you have someone with you, this can be very complicated. You'll see a lot of guys do this and they'll put that side down there. This also clicks. together, very well, they put it on and then they move on to the next piece and there is a little conundrum because this type of floor is not a locking system. I can't just leave it in place, you'll see. There's a tab here, so the way this works is this piece actually has to go back a little bit, you have to force it down, and then you have to push it into the space from the other side when you're starting. go away just trying to keep things in order having this board here is an obstacle in your way so don't do it keep it out of your way and you want to work back and forth on your first and second row let's cross your room, important.

To keep in mind, traditionally you will find that people like the look of the floor better. There's that click again if you're running the grain along the longest wall in the room. Meet that piece I cut from scratch. I'm going to block it. That now I take my hammer arm which is a very nice tight fit. I will never have a problem. No, I take this table. The benefit of this tongue and groove action is that it actually locks from both different directions. Well, then you understand. nice and tight, put your weight on it, nice, okay, now that we've gotten to the end of this wall, I want to take out my knife and trim this on its pad a little bit back and this is just to keep the noise down, okay? ? it doesn't matter if it goes all the way to the wall or not it's okay to be shy and this is what we do this you don't look in the same direction when you want to measure your cut you have to do it by eye Okay so we're at the extremes we want to get our piece, make sure the room tab is facing the same way, then take it and turn it, so now you will measure the actual space with the same piece of wood. that will be cut and installed there and since nothing in this world is square, it will not take the shortest one or the place where the contact with the wall is and mark the floor to be cut within a quarter of an inch of that now because we are using a baseboard of 3/4, we have a lot of mercy.

I mean, I can make this floor come. I'm almost an inch from the wall and it will still be covered by the rudder. I'm done with all my decorations, but for good measure. I like to leave about a quarter of an inch in there for expansion and contraction, take it to the cutter, put your mark right where the blade goes down, flatten it out and now instead of trying to hammer it in like that, you can just drop it into this piece. However, it's going to be a little trickier because you don't have room to get the hammer out from the end, so this time we have to hammer in this direction.

No, every time you cut a piece, start the next row with the leftover. Feel your product, save time. Here is our piece, turn it over, make contact with the wall, come back here, measure the cut and be careful all the time not to break the corners, send the corners, that piece is of no use to you, no one wants an ugly piece of floor in the middle of the room, no. like I was trying to show here, I can't just leave that there, I don't have room for a hammer, but I can do the same concept from this side, I can leave that there, okay, I don't know when you'll do it. you're working with us floors, keep an eye on the corners in the back if you have debris and it gets caught in these spaces and you force it in, you're going to break everything, your floor is going to open up on you, so leave this.

Now we put it in place, we take our hammer block, we put our weight on this other piece of wood, we see that that doesn't sit very well against the wall, now that you have finished about four or five rows, take a minute and take it out towards forward from below. the baseboard and then move the floor from the other side of the room where you have it stored, stack it all on the floor so that you put enough weight on it so that when you hammer the end pieces it doesn't slide. around and maintains that space you want under your floor and around your perimeter.

Try to keep a half inch gap wherever you go and your floral will last forever. Now really all you need to know now is that it will take about an hour to finish this. The room is not bad, without dust, without dirt, almost without garbage and it will be new, beautiful. Hello, welcome to home renovation. We are a YouTube channel that specializes in helping homeowners do home renovations but get professional results, so stay with us on this journey today. We are talking about Click laminate flooring, we will teach you all the tips, tricks and secrets so that you can get a quick and fast professional result that will last a long time, so before we talk about our product today, let me encourage you.

Quick if you haven't subscribed to the channel we have a lot of great information here to help people like you so today it's time to click on laminate flooring and the reason we're making this video is because we've made a laminate. Floor installation is I think this is the most popular DIY product on the market. There are many people who can install it with a minimal amount of tools, experience and understanding, so first we will go over the benefits and why this is such a great product. All in all it's easy to install, this product just fits into the slots, the ends lock on top of the other piece next to it and as a result as long as you stagger the joints correctly you will get a nice snug fit without that corner. glued and you can do it yourself about half the time it has the type of flooring where you have to tap them, tap the boards and secure them together so this is a great DIY project that you can do in an average bedroom in about 3 or 4 hours, if you have a helper, it's okay, it will probably take all day to install all the flooring, cut the doors and cut the trim, but in one day you will have a completely new room, that's why this project is popular now in this particular floor.

It's a twelve millimeter flat, so it's decent quality. It comes with the bottom pad already attached to the back and that's a step up for the project, so before we start on the floor, let's talk about preparation. Okay, preparation to make a new floor. The job of the flooring of course is that you have to lay the existing subfloor in the condition where you are ready to lay the new flooring, that means it has to be tight, you don't want it to move, this is really old flooring, this is one and a half inch softwood and is nailed through the tongue and groove into the joists that are 16 inches on center.

You can see that all the joints are for the floor, which helps identify where the boards are underneath and the easiest way to actually do it. Do you just walk around and have someone look to see if the boards are moving and if they are moving then what you want to do is line up on the joist line and put some deck screws in there and tighten it all down once? He already reviewed it and left the floor well adjusted. Keep the drilling screws handy in case you find something in the way, but that's all you need to do to prepare the floor.

If you already have a floor in the room, then I always will. Suggest that before you put down the laminate flooring that you remove the old flooring because you don't have the ability to inspect the subfloor and that's important if you have holes or squeaky spots where things are moving and you want them taken care of. early because once you lay your new laminate floor, if it moves too much it will break the joints and won't last long. The other thing you should do before you start is to make sure you sweep and vacuum your room.

When you have tongue and groove joints like this that are over a hundred years old, you really want to vacuum each of these spaces because we're going to create an area here where when you step on a floating floor, there will be some air movement under the floor and that will encourage dirt will blow away so if you can get it all on now it won't creak later and yes just remember your laminate floor can go over concrete just make sure you use a vapor barrier as a part of your underpad and you can always Talk to your flooring supplier.

ThatWhat if you get that product? So let's quickly talk about the laminated product itself. It comes in a variety of different thicknesses that are available in a variety of widths. I like it. I have about a four inch board, I find the largest and on many floors, there is too much movement and you can't follow the contour enough without having hollow spots underneath, so that's my personal preference, this particular floor has a texture like hand scraped. some of them have a wood grain texture some of them don't have any texture they are shiny they are flat there are a variety of differences some of these products are even good for wet areas so make sure you get them in a bathroom or laundry area Check the product and make sure it is made for that area.

The reason I like laminate over vinyl is that it really comes down to cost. This is the most cost-effective flooring on the market if you are looking for a quick lighting solution. a room or to clean a space, this is the way to go if you are on any kind of budget. This product, I actually got a little deal at the end of inventory, it's a dollar for six to nine square feet and it has the pad underneath already attached so I don't have anything else that I need on this project. What Wade installs is simply an arm, put it on and it's tight, it has a tongue and groove and the boards will continue to install the same way you do.

Align it and put it together, that's the installation procedure, so just do it a few hundred times when the room is well finished, so what we're going to do now is show you how to design it because I get questions. I really like which direction I should go. I'm going for the long wall, the short wall. I start at the door or the other side of the room and the answer is simple. I prefer to start with the longest wall you can start on. Because the grain of this long board on a long wall is aesthetically pleasing, now in this situation the room is a little more square, so we're going to go in the same direction that the existing boards are now and that will help.

Following the outline of this old house here also gives us the ability to get to the front door in a situation where my door will be here and these boards end up in that space, that's much easier. way to finish on a door, if you come this way, then your cut has to be exactly perfect - cutting the jamb and around the baseboard is quite complex, but if you come this way towards your door, you will find that you only have one cut in each side of the door makes installation really quick and easy. Well, this will be how to install a floor for beginners first if you don't do it regularly and don't have good calluses. on your knees, get yourself some knee pads, okay these are really nice, they're soft, they don't have any hard covering, you won't be rolling around all the time, just make sure you're always sitting nice and tall, the elastic straps that hold this on really tend to to pinch if you sit for a long time, so try to avoid doing that then.

Remember that there are two extremes. There's one that has just one square end here that's designed for us to fall on top of. lock and there's the one here that has the extension on the board and since you want to install a floating floor with room to expand and contract you have to be careful because if you put this right up against your baseboard you already have a gap so what you want to do is maybe start laying the floor at the other end of the room, and what I'm going to do is show you a technique where we'll build the first few rows. and then we're going to take it out of the wall where we want it and then we're going to put a bunch of wood on top of the floor to keep it from moving while we build the rest of the room, so before we get started, we'll remember that we want these joints to move and change of location regularly, when we want the spaces, the distance between those joints, to be significant enough for force to be transferred from one board to the next, so that the floor does not separate, yes, to do that we want remember that this area here with the tongue will be what we call the finished edge, the clean edge and we want the cut to be on the inside of the board. so I'm going to start by cutting three boards in three different areas and yes, this is my Roberts cutter, it's like a guillotine, anyone can use this or this, this or this, just remember when you cut with these tools, do it.

The dust is horrible outside and wear your safety glasses. I'll cut a board in half, the third board is fine and then a board in 2/3 and this gives me the ability to start four rows at a time and that way when I'm done with these first four rows, then I can fix the space and place those other boards on top. So once you start, you basically have two design options and I'll design them very quickly. One is a constant. step and you go from a big board to a smaller board oh you see junk like that make sure you blow it out you don't want to have anything in the seam okay a smaller board just between the boards or a smaller board table and then the whole process starts all over again, then your floor goes down constantly and that pattern repeats on the floor.

Some people like that aspect personally. I think it seems too intentional and man-made and I'm not a big fan. I like to mix. a little updo, long, short, long, short, that's just my preference, there's no right or wrong way. Now we will show you the installation technique so that you put it in the slot and slide it to secure. They make good contact and then let it drop, that's fine, and you'll notice that things won't be very tight right away, just put a little weight on one side and work on pulling it in that direction while pushing down and everything will settle. okay and then he put the next board in and until we get some weight on this floor it's going to want to move okay so you can use your leg do it like this and then we'll fall short again now that we have something we can.

Now work with these first scraps, oddly enough, what I'm going to do with them is just set them aside until near the end of the work and we'll use them on the last few rows when we get to the other one. At the end of the room I just don't like having them in the way, so now we're at a point where we're almost ready to go into production, we want to finish our two rows and we always have our big tongue sitting in front of us, okay , while you're building, the way you're going to measure from here to the wall is you turn the board in the reverse direction, place the board against the wall, take a black magic marker and right on the edge of this corner I want you to remove a quarter inch which is basically the length of the tongue on the first board plus another quarter inch ooh you want to shorten it on purpose here's why that will be the space that second quarter inch space will be the space there will be for the floor for a little expansion contraction now, in general, if your house has a conditioned space such as air conditioning and heating system, there is not much expansion and contraction, but if you live in a house where you do not have air conditioning and you have a summer hot, you will find that your floor will have varying degrees of fit, so remember that the warmer and more humid it is, the larger your floor will be. you get so you can make your adjustment based on your condition, some people use a half inch gap around the outside of the room and use a three quarter inch wire just because they are in extreme conditions, but traditionally a quarter inch will do the trick. do the job right, so here we go, there was my cut, okay, I don't need it now, but I'm going to use it to start another row here, okay, that's how it works, every time you cut a board. after you have done the first view and put them aside, each board you cut now place one on one side and start a row on the other side and that way you won't throw anything in the trash again, just leave it on the ground and then we will take another board.

Now remember I'm starting firmly on the other wall, so when we get the first few rows in mostly, slide it over and close the gap a little bit, but for now we just want this nice and nice and tight and then we'll pull it up and then we'll drop it down. and just giving it a little touch like this will help manipulate everything into position here we go again, we'll place it against the wall and we'll mark a quarter inch after the base so that the finished floor is, there's the end of the rough floor, there's a lot of room and we'll mark our floor there so here's our little piece for all of you who are wondering if that type of cutter is going to be able to cut off just a little bit for me the answer is yes it goes the same way slide it in and then leave it flat.

If you see that the edge of the board has any damage, tear it off and clean it. Anything that has damage like that will close properly just push it into the corner remember you are going to sweep as you go here we go no my space is shorter than the board so again I flip it over and measure the same way my foot is finished. Floor finishing board and my space now carry most of the flooring, when you snap them together they call it click flooring because the floor actually makes a clicking sound when it is placed correctly, so this will be the secret that we'll see if you can get the microphone out here to pick this up there okay here we go there that way everything fits together perfectly the secret to doing a job like this is to be 100% happy with everything you do before moving on to the next if you're not happy with what you just did, take it apart and try to figure out why you are not satisfied.

You may discover that something is not tight enough. There may be some debris in the gap, so it doesn't close properly, but you keep going. Moving forward, there's no way to go back and fix it later, so we basically have our first five rows done and before we go any further, what am I going to do now, so we just take this original cut piece here, wait here and hit it. Now I'm damaging this table and that's fine, I'll treat it like garbage, but what I want to make sure is that in my first few rows everything is nice and tight.

One of the things about the click lock system is just because it's in doesn't mean it's in perfect, they can open up and have a gap, so it looks good, you hear that click, okay, so down there, there's a gap. , now listen, it's a click lock, okay, and when you're doing the first few rows it's hard to get that clicking sound because things aren't perfectly straight, you need your first few rows before you straighten them, so what I suggest before Go ahead, give everything a little touch of love, make sure everything is fitted nice and tight, then you won't be disappointed and your floor won't fall open after the fact too quickly.

We better show you how to move the floor into position because remember we want to have a constant gap on both sides and on the back wall now later. you do five rows, it can be quite heavy and the laminate finish may be too slippery, get a good grip, this is where the tape comes in, literally hold the tape down and hold the edge of the tape and you can pull the floor. Now you can also push it off the wall, but if you try to pull it, you might find it a little difficult, so use the tape, another thing you can do if you have a board that comes apart and you need to kick it. get back into position, just put some tape on it and the reason you want it is because this helps give you a little bit of something to get your shot started and you can use it to manipulate your floor.

Get him in position, okay? I'll check our space at both ends. I like it to be perfect, so now stop this from moving over us. If you want to add weight, each of these boxes weighs approximately 60 pounds and when you're done packing the rest. the floor in the room there you're doing two things, hey, you're getting it out of the way because you're installing a floor in the room and B, you're putting enough weight on that floor that you just put on. Lower it and place it in position to prevent it from moving. Now remember that because this is a drop down locking system, we no longer need to use a hammer now that we've got it started and straightened, we've got it all. tight now we are ready to go and build a floor now its time for the time lapse then we will be able to show you the tips and tricks for dealing with the doors and placing them after the fact most likely some of these will have to be cut so We are done with the basic square meters of the room.

Now we've reached a couple of places where it's good to talk about the final details. You can see it only took us about 20 minutes. maybe 30, you know, if you're new to this and you're just starting out for the first time, maybe expect it to take about an hour, but I'm telling you once you get used to the cutting and get into the rhythm, we can do it pretty quickly, if you have help everything will go much faster so here we are this is what we call a quarter turn and if you look at it it looks like a quarter piece of cake that's what it's basically called. andwe use this as our molding, they close from the floor to the baseboard, and the way we do it is the inside corner is going to be mitered at a 45 degree angle and over here we're going to take it right up to where the door is.

The casing is fine, so we're just going to make a pencil mark here where the door casing is and we're going to cut this one at 30 degrees and that opens it up a little bit, so it looks clean and finished if you cut it square. It looks stupid so it's a nice gentle angle and it will work great and what we use to install it is a brad nailer and we're only using inch and a quarter nails. Now this setup here with an Eric Eric tool with a gun. The hose and compressor can be found at your local Home Depot.

The Husky machine. I think when I bought it it came with the hose and a nail gun. I don't remember exactly, but I think the whole set costs less than $200. of course once you have a hose you can get interchangeable tools you can get your staple gun for quarter inch plywood you can get a ratchet so you can use power tools to work on your cars so having a Compressor pressure itself costs you 100 dollars. I don't need to spend a fortune on these types of tools. I'm hard on them. I would probably use one a year because I don't treat them well, but for me it's something that versatile for a hundred bucks. one year that's just money in the bank as a homeowner, if you really take care of your tools it will last you a lifetime, okay, so you can do all the trimming in your house, all the woodwork done, whatever you need and You can also put a small blower at the end of this and you can use it as an air broom and you can clean things and dust the room, clean your computer and everything else with it too.

It's very useful, I definitely suggest having that's one of those tools that every homeowner should have if they're If you're going to DIY, you don't want to spend the day running around with the little finishing nails in the hammer trying to hammer in all these trims like the 19:50, that will take forever and you will waste your entire weekend doing something that could be done in about ten minutes, so here we go, once we have a measurement we just run to the saw and cut it and glue it instead for one of these brad nails every 16 inches, every two feet, let's go.

We're done so let's talk about transition because this is the one place in the entire room where the homeowners always get it wrong and it screams DIY, they don't cut out the casing and slide the floor underneath and the reason for this is probably just not I don't know what tool to use or how to do that job correctly or maybe you hired someone to do some work in your house before and they were lazy and didn't do it correctly, but here's the secret: take your floral. upside down and buy one of these it's now called a dovetail saw, it's cool because of the way you can hold the handle flush to the ground and still cut without rubbing your knuckles.

It is also reversible left and right. You push this down and swing. around and then in the locks in position to cut to the other side okay so all we do is place it on top of the floor and the reason we use this piece upside down is just to measure the deficit and this is not about of force, it's about speed okay, too fine, too soft, once you get to the jamb, which is this material, you can stop or you can continue, you can cut through the hole, it doesn't really matter, but the goal is getting to the other side of this case is clean so you're probably going to cut off some of the socket as well and that's okay no damage because here by doing this when you get close to the end instead of trying to put all your strength into the front , try use the upward bend, push against the heel like these types of moves and then you'll get the back of that cut right and the way you'll be able to tell if it's done, just grab your trusty knife, there's probably some caulking and adhesive there.

Come on, come on, now we have it all, there may only be a little bit left and you can take your knife and cut that little bit of molding off that's left once you've cleaned it all up, now you'll see your floor slide under the molding and you'll get a line Perfectly clean and no need to cock. This is absolutely beautiful if you add caulking to this after the fact it can make it look ugly and detract from the situation. Remember the only reason they use cocking. First of all, it is because someone cut the hole too big and had to close the gap, so if you use this type of fine-tooth saw, the saw blade itself is so thin that it looks microscopic, the difference which will be on your floor now, if you don't have one of these you can go to the store for about 20 dollars and buy one or if you have a PVC saw with the same effect, it's a thin thin blade, this is the little saw cheap traction drive from Irwin. ok i saw the same effect all you have to do is just put the floor there and you can do the same effect ok i will do the same ok these are ten bucks they are a little flimsy but if you are sometimes DIY homeowner It's not what you can buy but what you can use that works, as long as it's a flexible fine tooth saw, the same process you will also get a great result.

Let's talk about our transition. Now this floor will only be placed in this room. I won't take it to the rest of the house, we're using a different floor for that so there will be a transition and the general rule is that when you make a transition anywhere on the floor you want that transition to be correct. in the middle under the door so here I'm going to show you here is the door jamb this represents the outside of the door this represents the inside of the door you want your floor to go right in the middle where the transition is except that this is a laminate product the transition will look different it will be about a half inch wide it will be a metal rail that screws to the floor okay and then there will be like a tea molding and it will snap into that metal rail and go over the top of each of the laminates, so we actually want to go directly to the jamb with our floor.

Well, we don't want to go into this area because the transition itself will close the gap from here to here knowing that because transitions traditionally are an inch and a half, an inch and a quarter, as long as the floor reaches the edge, everything will be fine so to do the same thing we turn it over and put our finished floor there okay and we're going to mark right there we're going to cut exactly to fill here and in this particular case we're not going to use our guillotine because we want to get a nice clean cut in this situation.

I'm going to use the chop saw, so here's our Maryland quarter and here's our mark with our 30 degrees, so we're going to set our saw to thirty degrees. I'll block her instead. I'll just place them on the sheet. Up there we go, that's done and then I'm going to push this all the way in, the other side I set it to 45, which is my inside corner miter and the idea here is that I want the blade to cut from the tip down, like this so don't make it shorter now that the piece is ready to install, so here's the floor piece, this is the one that goes into the room and this is where we're going to finish it on the door.

Now just look at this baked finish here. It comes from the factory, this is much stronger than the type of finish you get on site finished flooring, it is baked, it is largely a glaze, you should cut the standing board when you can, it is fine if you are going to use the saw to cut wood, stand it up, line up your saw and you will see it hit it, you will need to remove the guard, turn on the saw and go slow, there you have it, you are done. I can live with a perfect cut and what is the rule when doing floors.

I like to make my cable since it is available. It's probably an OCD thing to be completely honest, but it's nice to see it clean and finished. Then what do you do? Do you put your gun in the middle and push it down and then turn it in a little? Okay, you don't really want to nail the floor all the way to the subfloor and you never want to nail under an electrical cord. plug it in just in case the wires coming out from underneath come away and just put one every woops 16 inches about two feet just to make sure it's nice and tight because this is a click laminate floor you can actually cheat here just a little, as you see here.

You can put it on top of the slot and then slide it into it right now, it doesn't want to sit there perfectly, so what you have to do is lift this side up just a little bit so you can get it in. click and you can actually pull and find out that's not going to happen, yeah, every once in a while you'll want a ham or something, have a little cut on hand, okay, and the reason this works really well is because the outline of the tongue and groove is exactly the same, so you won't damage the face of the board, it's already locked and perfect, you edge clean to where the transition will be, this is how you finish the floor, this is easy from this side of the floor, you get your body low, angle it in, slide it in, put your fingers there in the groove, pull while weighing down, perfect every time you're on this side of the wood, it's a lot easier, so when you start, It takes a little time, but from this side it's that easy, so you'll see as I laid the floor here, what it is.

I just marked where the slope of the floor is and to make my life easier, I'm going to trim it after the In fact, it's easier for me to install. Well, I bring my jigsaw, I put the blade in that hole and I'm using a 3 inch drill bit so you know three eighths and then we just go and that's why I like Do it after the factory because I can cut it perfect every time, it's okay, so we're about I don't know two-thirds of the way through the project now and that's when it comes to the floor, we have a few more details left that I want. to discuss and these are really important one of them is your doors you need to consider if the doors still work after you put the new flooring down and you want to know that ahead of time because if you take the flooring up to the door and then it doesn't open it's very difficult take it back out, so double check and make sure you have some room.

This door isn't going to open, so what are we going to do? I'll show you my ugly system. piece of floor in front of it and if you want to take a good look at this pencil, if I hold it like this, I actually get almost a quarter of an extra inch, a little bit like this, and I mark the door at the top of the floor so that when cut this door I will not only cut it so that it barely fits but I will cut it so that it works completely I am also going to check it with the door open because the old houses and those in the Turia because they have different heights and different There are variations so just double check and here it actually clears, so we know we're opening from a high point to a low point, so if I remove that door and cut it in that position, it's going to work great, so we want to get that.

Out of the way right away, so the way I removed the hinge pins is I use a drill bit, just clean it from the side, once you get some you can use the claw on the hammer, pop it open and you're done. and here we go, we're going to take this out of the room and when we're done, I'm going to set it up, cut out the door and show you how to reinstall it. Now that we have all the tools reconfigured, we have changed our workstation, we are going to set up our cutting station. I have a moving blanket here on the floor just because it's a new floor and it has a nice durable finish.

It doesn't mean you want to take any risks, so I always cover the new floor surface when you're working on it and this gives us a chance to catch up on our sweeping again. Remember the preparation, the preparation while we work, we are creating. dirt and dust, so it was a good time to clean the surface one more time before finishing, okay, so there are really only two steps left to make a floor that you will need to know and that is the closet area, they have a unique challenge that associates the closets and that is that the closets usually come and are built into the room, so now we have this wall that divides one section of the floor from the other and as we go this way, we will have At this intersection, you should think that you should pay attention to beforehand and come up with a strategy to do this because, as you can see, this board goes here and that's nice and lovely.

Well done, we can cut and install that last piece and then I can put on that board, what about this one? You know, mind you, you're supposed to take a jigsaw, cut it in half and try to try to nail it. I can't do that, okay? So what you want to do is realize that In this situation you will want to install the floor from the middle in both directions, which is a little bit contrary to what we have been showing and there is a secret to doing this, so you plan to go from two different directions because it's a block this board, you want to start right here, outside the gym, okay, and this board is the one you want to cut and measure first and ifyou can't measure that board first and install it from that side and then use a tapping block to push it under the molding we use our saw and cut all that molding ok we actually take a dovetail saw and cut all the casing , up to the baseboard, around this side, okay, the reason we can do that is because we're going to add that shoe mold all over the base, so it won't cause us any problems, but it will give us the flexibility to push this edge, push this floor underneath, so what I want to do is First I want to measure here, have my marker mark my spot where it's going to slide under the baseboard and in the case, just to make sure that I'm going to be okay from the jamb to the floor, it looks like my mark is 2 and 3/ 4 okay, there's plenty of room, okay, and then I want to mention this so that my finished edge is in line with this Jam because that's what it's going to connect to correctly and you can just look at this to start right there and then we can cut this right after the corner, we're going to use two molds or cord over here, so it doesn't matter, let's give ourselves a little bit of space and then I put my marker in and then I'll just pull, okay, no, I have my cut and I'm going to run over to my hand saw set up outside and of course it's outside because that desk is really brutal and I'm going to cut this piece and then we can come and set it up and measure and cut the other piece. and I'll show you all the tricks so you can finish this.

We're going to start with the middle of the floor instead of the edge, let's take it to where we want it, get it into our slot, lock it properly into place. now what we want to do is take our hammer, take one of its shortcuts, line it up underneath, and then use the cutting areas with a striking block. Remember that the contour of the impact block matches the rest of the laminate exactly, so if you leave it flush. to the ground and you hold it together, it will have a perfect transfer of energy without causing any damage now you can see it is under the outline here so no need to copy anywhere here we are going to get the quarter round shoe mold so you can cut yourself a little generous on the back here make sure you have plenty of room to do this joint again it didn't turn out perfect because it's a click lock you can actually lift this edge up a little bit so you can fit this in nicely and just give it a tug, snap it in in the butt, ready, look, that's beautiful, now we can go.

Back to our cuts, make sure you set your space on the wall, let's go and this is just a matter of measuring the cut to finish, so here we are, we'll do another quick little time lapse and we'll get to the end. of the project we're going to do all the cuts, starts and finishes, make sure we're engraved, as we call it, which are our seam lines, they're staggered and blended and they look good, so now we're pretty much on the last step to a side. from cutting the door next to installing the floors against the wall, obviously the space left is not consistent with the width of the board, so we can't use our cutting tool, we can't use our circular saw to cut. this wood so we need to do something else now.

I'm going to suggest that if you have a table saw that is the best tool for the job, you can also use a hand saw. In fact, you can take this board and clamp it to something else and then run your hand saw and cut the piece. You could use a jigsaw if necessary, but the point is that anything that cuts something long and straight will work fine. You won't see the cut line because it's going to be covered by that quarter round we showed earlier, so don't worry too much about how perfect it is and give yourself some room to work.

The biggest mistake people make here is making it too tight and then they have to fight with it to get it in, they damage their sockets and then they will have problems with expansion and contraction because it's too tight so the first thing you need to do is find the two pieces, measure them and cut them to the appropriate length. they can fit comfortably in the space and now you have your template, okay now it's time to use the tape measure. I'm going to measure it from the wall to here, not to here, okay, and that will create a smaller space than you need.

You'll leave that quarter inch gap that you want to have after you're done installing the flooring, so measure the gap here to the final floor is an inch and 3/4, but to the button on the extension of the slot here is just an inch and a half and then you're going to take your tape measure and you're going to measure from the finished floor to an inch and a half and make it work fine, does that make sense? So we are actually measuring the smallest part of the space and cutting from the finished floor. so we went with the quarter inch tall lump and we're done here, it's at a quarter and a half inch and a quarter so each end is a different depth so I've inched into a corner at one end, inch and a half. the other, take a look at the floorboards and set them up, and this is one of the reasons you want to take that quarter inch off.

It's good to have a little mercy here, okay, connect the dots and that will be your cut. line for your table saw, okay, this one is a little simpler, it's just an inch and a half on both sides, that's the one you can make, just make your mark, put your fingers in the slot and pull, okay , now we have our two pieces. I'm going to go down to the table saw, we'll rip it out and then we'll go in and drop them in and I'll drop them in, I mean literally the same process where you're going to put your tongue in the slot.

I'm just going to give it a moving edge and lay it down and that's it, okay, so the last step of the flooring before we cut the doors and install them has to put in the strips that we cut, of course we cut them. Short on purpose, remember to watch the space at the end and just place it. No, this is not completely done, it's not tight, so use your knife and press forward a little bit, okay, as you push down, there we go if you do. You're not sure if it's down enough, you're going to hurt yourself, just do it like this until you give it a chance and I'll close it up tight and tighten it, remember you'll have a wire around it to cover everything.

Don't be too picky or too hard on yourself, as long as you can see the gap closing, watch the gap closing, push it down when you push it down with the gap open, push it forward again, tell us until you can push it in without the gap opening click action I heard that click click there you hear that noise you know oh my gosh gold and then you just take the cable and cover it all so one of the benefits of this product is that now the room It's ready and that's the only garbage you're throwing away.

I love not buying material that is thrown away. Well, here's a little extra feature for this video and it's kind of necessary because in many cases when you add 12 millimeter laminate, you need to cut the doors, okay, so as we mark the surface of the door that you'll see from the room Before you start, you'll want to protect the door, especially if it's already finished painting, so that the marks caused by the saw, it's okay if this is a bipod or you're not going to see the back and you can mark the back. I would suggest doing so, but in this situation these types of circular saws have a steel plate and that's what prevents them from going wild and twisted on you and that will still drag on your finished painting and make a mess, so cover it with some duct tape real quick, here's our pencil line, you'll want to set the depth of your saw relatively to the Same as the door, it will decrease the amount of splintering it will cause and the doors are coming into the room, so we'll set this rinse half, that would be more than enough to make sure they get through your door. hinge or you're going to have to cut from the other side and that's a little more complicated here we go now we can set our mark here this particular saw that line at zero is where the blade is going to cut and then remove so we can set that right on our pencil line sets the depth of the sheet at that almost too perfect, now you can actually use an outdoor tape in great shape and use it just to rub the door real quick so it's nice and sanded, it's time to stick it on.

Again, okay, she's usually a way to remove a door. I'll let the paint be nice and practical and all you do is just take the top part and then you can work on the bottom part. Here we go perfect. Sometimes they have a core that's about an inch or so and when you cut it out you can take the face off the car door and reinstall it with glue and in a couple of hours in this situation that core was cut off because it's already used or has been thrown away. Never cut it again. If there are any cores left, they will be so small that it's worth worrying about, but if you have the time and energy and you still have a core, yes, feel free to reinstall it if you're worried. spiders or mice, whatever, climbing on the door making a home there, you can always use some low expansion foam for windows and doors, and you can seal the bottom of the door and then trim it later, so the Today's video we will show you.

Some really cool tips and tricks for installing hardwood floors in your home so by far the most common type of flooring out there in the world today is hardwood flooring and I know in North America we tend to to try to get away from that a lot. Recently, there are many products on the market, especially for DIY enthusiasts. You know you have laminate flooring, which was supposed to be a cost-effective option instead of hardwood if you replaced the carpet, for example, and that was true. to some extent, but it doesn't have the lifespan that hardwood has and then we have plank flooring and sheet vinyl, we have carpet, we have cork flooring, they came up with bamboo, but listen, let's get back to basics when we break it all down.

No matter what type of flooring you are talking about, its cost per square foot is really the first thing you start thinking about suicide due to performance, cost is the biggest issue, hardwood floors are six and seven dollars per square foot. Yes there are many products available now that compete with that price that are not even wood, so engineered hardwood is about the same price. There are many laminate products that are luxury products and they are all going up into the five to six dollar range, so when it is a high quality product, whether it is wood, vinyl or laminate, the installation will be about the same price and One of the benefits of this is that it doesn't require any kind of subfloor material, so by factoring that into the cost, you'll end up with a fairly cost-effective piece of flooring and it comes prefinished, so you'll have the ability to choose the color you want and you also have this option ten fifteen.

Twenty years from now you'll want to change the color, sand it down and you'll be able to refinish the floor on site and that's not something that any other type of flooring product has the flexibility to do, which is refinish on site, so this is a floor that will be here in a hundred years unless someone decides to rip it out for no apparent reason, so at the end of the day, I think protected flooring is still your best option unless you are in a wet area, but if you own a house and you want to do a DIY wood floor, today we are going to show you all the tips and tricks so that you don't get intimidated by doing something that traditionally would have been called carpentry and this is just installing floors, yes.

You need a couple of carpentry tools but it's not that complicated and when you see we get into this, you too can do it at home and you can rent the tools to do it, it's a perfect DIY project that you can tackle. on a weekend and you still have plenty of time to get your furniture back in order before we start next week, so as with any floor installation, the key is in the preparation, so before we can put the new wood, we have to tear up the old flooring and in this case that means sheet vinyl and it has to go.

This thing is just ugly and it's that easy. Special note: be very careful. These staples are extremely sharp. I suggest having a roll of electrical tape in one hand for when If you puncture your hand, you can stop the bleeding because when you get punctured by one of these bad boys, it's a deep cut that will create a weak spot when you install the floor, your subfloor won't. you need to go straight to drywall hell. You don't even have to reach the socket. You will always put four. Feel free to install the subfloor a little below the back wall.

That's just frustrating. I mean if you're going to measure and cut make it a little smaller than you need no need to tighten it against the wall just pull nuts next time you want to try changing oh yeah she really is installed to last a great adhesion, who are you kidding? Look, it's supposed to be. It's that easy, be careful whenIf you are on the side floor lift, if you slip and it is under pressure, it will hit you, that will make a whole roll of holes in your leg, so when you are doing a wooden floor, the installation is about the same. it's any other type of floor, you want to have a clean surface, you won't have it prepared, you want to sweep it and vacuum it, make sure you vacuum and the reason I love vacuuming is because it's the last chance to run into something on the floor and I'll tell you if you have a staple sticking out or something.

Now this type of floor has a tongue and groove construction. Okay, it's a final cut. I don't like. What we are going to do is simply discuss the real thing. quick how to put this I mean you have to have some kind of reasonable approach to the situation so this is what we're going to need to start over you want to know the ending from the beginning so one of the most elegant ways what you can do is to buy one of these wood grates that is designed with tongue and groove in mind and place it on top of your hole and finish the floor directly on it.

Okay, now into this particular situation we're approaching. an existing wood floor, that floor was started with a full board with the groove exposed, which is lovely because our wood has a tongue on one side, so our nailing direction is going to be like this and it's going to slide right in, like this that what I want to do because I'm in a hallway and even if it was a bigger room because I'm going to go in this direction and I'm going in this direction just because the simplicity of a hallway and when you run along the long wall is really It's hard to get a straight line and it's almost impossible to sew it into the existing floor unless it comes right out of there like this, but the truth is the wood we're installing is a little different shade, they don't make that color.

Also, one of the ways we're going to help hide this is by using a different green because wood in a different grain, even once the same color looks different, this will help it blend in, that's what we want do. align some pieces nice because I don't want to start on my floor at the back of the closet and work this way, it will be impossible to have this floor square with that floor and I want this nice and square so that all my pieces fit nice and tight against that other one floor and I don't want to have these occasional spaces that open up, so these spaces are really dramatic, but the more square you are, the better it will look, so we don't want to even be half a degree off the angle and the way we do this, there Come on, that's perfect.

I want to have my whole piece on the side of this log, which is kind of flexible, I mean, it can move a little bit to the right and I want to have these squares for this. I want to start in this area, but if I start in the middle of the floor, how am I going to go in this direction? Because the way the Danly system works is the wood nailer, which will be our pneumatic tool for the day, sits on the floor right on the edge here and shoots an angled nail through that tongue and into the floor, okay, to set this up so that it can be really pretty here, perfectly square here, I just want to squeeze all of these together, okay?

Well, what I'm going to do is take my square and put it in the slot, okay, that's going to help keep it nice and square, and I'm going to run it against this wood until it's all nice and perfectly square. There's nothing more square than this right there, that's my place. I'm going to take this piece of wood, okay, just confirm it. I love where it closes. I love everything about this, so there's my start. I'm just going to draw with a pencil. That, for now, yeah, the way I'm going to start with my floor is, I'm actually going to screw a piece of wood in here and I'm going to start nailing everything inverted that goes into the closet so I can fill it from a square position. . here to the other floor nailing in the right direction and then when I come back I'm going to take this little piece of wood here I'm going to demonstrate how this works when I come back from nailing to that wall I'm going to take this piece of wood and I'm going to slide it into the slot like this and I'll do it I will rotate and then fit it into the existing nailed floor and then start nailing in the other direction to the other end of the hallway.

Here's how you can get started. in the middle of the room and this is Sookie, when do you come across a finished piece of wood? You want to start where it is, so if you're doing a bedroom and your bedroom door is near the back wall but there's a closet outside of that, you don't want to start at the back wall and leave the room because when you get to the door is a transition nightmare, take the few minutes needed to install things on the existing wood floor with a couple tons of slide. the things are pre-made, they're like three dollars each, you can't go wrong, you lay them out and you can reverse the direction of the wood so you can start square nailing the right direction on the end of the cabinet and then you can come out here, cut Tong, turn it over and then finish completely by putting another wall together that way your joints and seams are going to be perfect, just the money is perfect and take the time to measure with the register because now I don't have any ugly cuts, I can put all that in with full pieces of wood and this is going to be perfect now these logs are pre-designed to have exactly the same thickness of the wood piece from corner to corner so if I can set this up or my log will start right on the tongue and then I'll finish on the piece of wood with no cuts, so the only cut you have to make is on your saw as a final cut and that's behind here. this start, all of this can be full pieces of wood, take your variation of sizes and when I'm nailing my floor, I can come in here like this and make everything fit perfectly and that's how you get a perfect installation, yeah, that's the LAN joist there, so now we have something that is incredibly strong, so we'll quickly recap here before we start because we want to remove anything that's outside of the area that we're not going to use, so once we have the job set up, you're really going to want reduce the number of tools you use and adjust your nailer and only your hammer because there is almost no need for anything else in the room other than a marker and I always suggest using a black marker to make marks on the wood because now you won't see a pencil .

We've measured from our grand level, we've squared it up to our existing floor, we made a line, we installed this plywood board on that line and the idea behind that is that when we install our floor, the nails are driven in this way the hammer . The action is this way, but it's bolted directly to the floor joist, so this floor is not going to slide and separate and open up as we build and that's why this is here, we want to leave this in place, the sliding tongue is in that wood. there so you get this and that will keep the end from lifting and moving and separating and creating a tripping hazard over time, which will be perfect, the only thing left to do and I hate doing this, but come on Now I need a little construction adhesive.

As a general rule, I try not to use this product in my house during Finnish installations because these things don't come out and if you make a mistake with this, you will make a mistake that will last. otherwise life here if you don't clean it in the first five minutes and making a mess this doesn't come off with any type of solvent PL construction adhesives there are different varieties there are 200 400 series but the PL premium doesn't clean up, so Be careful, be very particular when you place this and the reason I'm gluing this in place is because this is where I'm going to change direction and when I change direction I'll have two pieces of wood behind me. -back and there's no fastener here so I don't want this to open up and move so we're going to glue it in place and I don't want to use any surface nails so I'm just going to glue it in place and then start when you put this nail down to pull the entire board flush and when you come back on the other side it will pretty much be in place forever so this is the boss stitch hardwood nailer tool rental that I love .

As far as rentals go, you can set these things up for 3/4 hardwood, hardwood, half inch bamboo, and engineered flooring. These have four different thicknesses, so they have four different configurations for these plates that go on the bottom, usually the rental stores will have them. a number of tools will have a few of each available at any time and loads from the top very simply, just like any other stapling machine out there, take a couple of tracks, place them and you are loaded with a powered arm, that is simple and The way we install about every 6 inches, you want to put a nail in, okay, and since it's my first strip, I'm just going to nail where I have plywood screwed on just to simplify my life and you want to give it a good try. firm push so I'm a big fan of every six to eight inches and really the goal here is to place the nylon plate on top of the finished wood, slide it against it and position it so that it doesn't lean to one side or the other is the entire system.

I'm just using this move here, okay, ah, no need, don't hit it too hard, if you hit the hill too hard, you'll end up denting the front edge of your what just. nice and easy ok just the wrist don't use the arm if you start swinging with your arm you're going to hurt something or someone so now that we've demonstrated how the nail gun works I'm going to demonstrate the uses of the hammer. You can see the angle from it, the reason it is set up like this is because this is what you use to move the floor as long as you hold it on the ground, the part of the hammer that makes contact with the wood is always on the bottom . the wood is never close to the finish so you can slide everything into place, close all the gaps, tap everything into place and then drive in the nails, this is where this gets fun, look at that perfect gap, this is how it looks makes a joint. ladies and gentlemen, other than that, really the only secret left here is dealing with aging and this kind of crazy concept, but what it comes down to is talking about where the joints of the wood are, you don't want there to be anything that To happen again. a pattern over and over again on your floor, so if you put the wood together like this and every other board is four inches apart, you're going to run into major problems.

Generally, hardwood floors are milled for strength and straightness. of a tree, so there are different sizes, so you will find that there will be a lot of pieces in the box of the same size, it is different than laminate or vinyl where everything is the same size, everything here is different, so What I like to do is use as many long boards as possible to try to eliminate the need for too many small pieces and hardwood comes in different grades so you can buy them where they are all small pieces and that's like the leftover wood that is throw in a box.

Sold as hardwood flooring, it looks like a really cheap puzzle when you're done because there's nothing but joints, so if you buy quality for another couple of dollars a square foot, you'll get boards that are four, six, and eight feet long and that makes a beautiful floor, but now all we have to do is measure the cut, yeah, so what I have, I have three rows started. In fact I'm going to take a trip to the mountains and make all the cuts for this because running back and forth is your killer, this is where all your time goes so the more you run back and forth the better it will be now that's how you measure the same type of system we go over here take your wood, turn it over, lift it up edge, slide it until it touches the baseboard and then mark it so you're actually cutting this wood on your mark at just 1/16 less than actual size, okay, that gives you all that room for expansion contraction under the socket, okay, which is lovely and It will make sure that you can end up with a very nice, tight shoe mold and you don't have to use a big, thick, ugly quarter inch, so the same thing I'm going to flip it over, it's on the edge, run it. come up to us and contact the socket there, which is two rows and then I'm going to use this board here, okay, don't worry, I'm going to cut and use this part of the slot and I'll be left with a clean cut. so I can't use that on the door, but I can use a clean cut to start a row anywhere else along the walls, so I'll leave that piece aside, use it later, you don't want to have hardly any waste here , so whenever you're making a cut, try to keep it under four inches if possible, feel free to look through the box and get the perfect because we're a little behind on the project today, so I'm going to eat. as I work, it's probably bad to show it, but when you install the final pieces, remember that when you have this angle, the distance from here to here is longer than from here to here, so set it like this, keep it. tighten on thiscorner and then pull this side in and you are actually slowly pushing the wood back until it fits perfectly and you will always get a perfect fit when you do it that way so just to mention that the machine makes a very distinctive sound when there are no staples, it takes a little practice to get used to hearing it, so my suggestion is that if this is your first time laying a wood floor every few rows, just lift the rail here, double check and see how your coefficient supplying staples is working because when you hit it, the wood will be very tight and it fits a pretty good compression and makes a dent, and it looks like there might be a staple in there, so it can be a little misleading and not you want to go through a whole row of flooring, start the next row and then you hit without staples and then two rows of Woodill bounce and it will start to open up and that's when you'll realize it. that you were doing it without staples and I thought I'd save you some pain, so this is how you figure out how to cut this because when you're done you're going to want to have it very tight to that wood, so what?

What you do is you just set it up like this and make your marker right on the edge because that's where you want to cut the wood. Well, you see that and then you turn it to set the thickness, you put it in your slot and that's why. The marker is awesome because wherever you mark that is the thickness of a sheet, so when working with hardwood use your marker to determine where you want the sheet to go so you can see that I have my sheet is going to go there and here and then. you can use a square or really good fingers.

Now I'm going to line up my blade, my marker, so I'm cutting exactly where my marker is. I always put it on full speed before you make contact with the wood, especially the hardwood you burn. you cut it if you start and bet this too early not a pervert okay so this is ultimately the problem this is not square so it fits here it doesn't fit right so unfortunately that means I have to cut the whole thing off because I need to slide it in so I have to remove another saw blade and the way I cut this is really going to piss off the security trolls oh hey quick question for the security trolls while we're at it What's more important is to wear safety shoes so you don't step on a nail every once in a while or don't wear safety shoes so you won't need a knee replacement when you're older.

Well yeah, not bad for a circular saw now. I probably want to say this, that's not the recommended technique. to cut a piece of hardwood, but in general I like cheap because every time I cut less than six inches, why would I want to set that up, move the wire and put another side? We're about one to four rows from the wall and this does it. Really complicated, now you will see professional flooring installations. These guys end up making marks and dents all over the drywall when they put down the floor because honestly, that's really hard to do.

I can't get any closer with this machine, so now it's the only way. What we can go further with the fastening system when you get so close to the wall is to put on that construction adhesive that we talked about earlier, the premium pl, and you can use a nail gun like you would use to finish trim, so this is exactly what you will see in condo apartments or applications where you are putting hardwood over concrete, be careful you can't put it everywhere, this concrete doesn't go in basements directly to the basement because there is too much moisture transfer there, but in a building apartment is actually quite useful because it is a conditioned space above and below the concrete so that there is no transfer of moisture, so what we are seeing is that all of these boards are the ones that we cut a moment ago so that we can fix them in the adhesive .

I'm sorry I forgot it. let's touch this closer attach the ups or brad now these are 2 inch 18 gauge nails okay it's probably a little longer than I need but I don't like to mess around with too many types of nails and the idea This is where we are We will put the nail in the same place on that tongue that we would have right where the adhesive is and it will go in the same every six inches like a stable. Now that nail won't hold anything over time, but what will it do. It will hold that wood in that adhesive until the adhesive is dry and then the floor won't be there, you'll open up and move around if all you're using are brad nails, guaranteed the wood will start to open up and split, you know.

I always have this angle, you'll have to practice a little not to nail through the surface, no, I need something else here, my drill, no, my nail punch, it's perfect without a punch and it's the Robertson bit and they come to the Mine my screw gun I can put it on that nail here we go you can use that technique anywhere you find a nail so you know that's usually a pretty useful place to be in this situation when you get to the door areas of your house You are removing the existing flooring and putting in hardwood.

You will probably run into a situation where the door frames are lower because you would have had carpet, laminate or vinyl, in this case it was vinyl flooring but then they added plywood and then tile so even though we put a 3/4 inch thick floor, we're going to be a little bit thinner than the previous molding, so this will be a gap, but this is what we call a dovetail saw if you've never seen one before, changes so you can put the floor in place, okay, what you saw on that and then you can cut them out, you can cut your moldings with this fine tooth saw. saw and if you are working on the other side you just push down on your little spring loaded flap turn it and now you have another bigger size so it cuts right and left it only costs a little under 20 bucks and if you don't No You have an expensive power tool and you are doing flooring in your house, this type of tool can save you a lot of time and money and give you a really professional finish this way, once you have cut the entire floor. slide under the molding, that's fine and then you won't have a big ugly space, it seems strange, but now I've taught you all the techniques you know to wood the entire room, how to start a nice transition, how to get under the molding, how to splice. up and how to make the cuts how to close it and nail it and glue it and pin it how to finish it against the wall the only thing we haven't talked about now is how to finish that cool heat, so we're just going to do this, we're going to change the direction now so you get the whole experience in a short little video and you don't have to wait for the next two hours and we do the same thing over and over again. and on top of that Wow, beautiful now the advantage here is that when you work with this floor it is good to always have the hose coming behind you that you won't trip over, now we have the tab here that fits in the groove of the old floor. look what's going on here like there's ridges and gaps there's no way to close that nice and tight okay that's why we also want to consider reaching but we want to put our exfoliating cream in here now and just to try to help keep clean things.

I'm just going to hit the size of each port at a time, like with any fine, so it's more about speed than pressure. Okay, you have the option if you want to glue this, but honestly, if both pieces of wood are glued together. You don't need to stick this tab on the floor, but if you want, you can leave it in the glue for a second like this and then stick it on. Now we have a transition. I just take my board leaning on the police. Go back to our hammer and now we've turned this wood in the opposite direction there we go now remember I was talking about the angle of this look how when we turn the boards in the different direction here I'm ending up with my microphone ceiling when you put this on the floor and make contact with the wood.

You see the space at the top. I'm not actually in contact with the finish because I have this on the floor, so I can hit it, even standing up, I can slide it in and close it. nice and tight and because the rest of this floor is already nailed it won't move on me so I was getting too comfortable and I never hit this one hard enough my staple was sticking out so now my piece of wood won't be able to close, you have to recess it, so steal that bit again and hit it close to the outside, okay, you won't be able to drive it at an angle, so don't even try the goal is to just bend it. down so the wood can slide or that, so we'll do it, we'll just mark this wood right here.

I know, call me crazy. That's why we have a knife another time for another review. No, there isn't much. of strengthening that wood there to fight with that knife, you see how you just cut it, it's like a bar of soap, I'm just taking a little, one more travel trick, so in this situation you might think, well, let's do what we did the other end, we'll cut the splinter there and that's an option, but honestly, when you're cutting that much splinter out of a piece of wood, what you want to do is cut down a couple of times because when you start here, chances are you're going to You break that piece and it twists and breaks going backwards.

The other option is if you can get under that casing, you'll remove some of this tongue here on the saw so I can butt right up against the jam and then we'll install this wood and then what I'll do is make a fabrication for this little piece on my table saw later and I'll just leave it in place. I only need the top. piece of wood, I don't need the whole length, so I'm just going to take my table saw, rip off a piece and put the adhesive on it after the fact and put it right there and that'll be Perfect, here, sit down, install, we're using the grooves all over the wood to keep this in place, isn't that crazy?

The only interesting thing about these grates is that this wood is hard, so it's actually strong enough to step on, no. Strong enough to place furniture on top. I don't think you'll be placing furniture on top of it, so definitely go for a metal grate. We have 1 inch and 13 inch pieces okay so I'm going to use 4. pieces 1 inch from this and then here it will hold the tab because when we install this we want this tab to go in here to wait for the oldest record to be on your place and so measure up to the drywall and then mark off about a quarter inch off okay one two yeah I'm just using some full boards here 1 2 3 because that's the end of the box so this is a perfect place, nice Civ because what we're going to do here is just set you up Ladies, tighten it up tight now.

I'm not going to put a nailer on this until I have it all installed because I don't want to risk splitting all the wood. They know I have everything here. In fact, I'm going to break through the surface. I'm going to nail through the surface where I know my base shoe will cover it. Hold your gun nice and tight against the wood if you have any space there or not enough pressure. You'll leave the head sticking out and have a mess to clean up later. We want to be careful not to put too much force on this grille and these little nails.

We just want to be careful. Here it comes. Right into this, close it with your hands, close it tight and in the middle, these I cut so they're all the same size, so we'll close the far side first and then we'll move over there. come on, that keeps everything nice and tight let's let the nails, the staples, pull this joint tape, well there we go, that's pretty much all I have for tips and tricks for doing hardwood floors. Now remember each aspect of this video that you can use in different. scenarios, so as long as you know how to square things, glue things, screw, nail, cut and measure you should be fine, just remember when you're doing a job like this every time you put a fastener on something you want to be completely happy before commit.

It's okay, if you don't like what's happening, stop, take a step back and take a little break. Think carefully and make sure that you will be completely satisfied once you do it. You've thrown it on the floor faster, you don't want to come back when the job is done, we'll really wish I'd taken more time with something, so yeah, some cuts can be really frustrating and time-consuming. It takes effort before you get it right, but getting it perfect is worth it. Thank you for joining us in this video. I hope you have all the information you need so you can renovate your home now and put in something new and beautiful. wood floors remember that there is a finished site, there is nothing to do after you know it except sleep, so if you like this type of content, pick up my cell phones like this video, comments and questions, even the trolls of security are allowed in the comments below, where they answer those questions. every day and we love giving you those types of questions to help you with your renovation project.Remember that our goal is to help you make a fortune renovating your home.

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Well, I hope by now you have had the opportunity to choose what type of flooring you prefer. Don't be discouraged if you have different conditions in your home. Most of these floors can be installed either in the basement, over concrete, or over an existing floor. So depending on your situation, you can choose one or the other, but always feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. We're here to help and we have other videos on the topic. How to Lay Subflooring in Your Basement. Knows? Alright? how to put vinyl on tile and what is waterproof what is there are a million questions and a million products available so not everyone gets the right answer the same question in this different place so on this channel if you do one question here, I will answer it myself Okay, I answer the technical questions for sure, feel free to post it in the comments section below, don't forget to visit us on Instagram and if you like this video, give us a big thumbs up, We would really appreciate it because YouTube I love knowing that they are happy with what we are giving them and we want to hear what they like so we don't have to give them more.

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