Mit diesem einzigartigen 500€ Wasserkühler lässt sich der 13900K auf über 6 GHz übertakten

Hello everyone, welcome back to another video. In November 2020 we saw how we could overclock a 10,900k with this Peltier Element based CPU cooler from EK water blogs. It was all a cooperation with Intel, meaning Intel wanted a cryogenic cooler. At that time, the Intel processor was, of course, a little more manageable than an AMD CPU in order to continue to lead the test charts. A refrigerator with a PLT element has, of course, the big disadvantage that the order element is inside, so if you do. I don't know what it is. Simply put, petelement is a small disk and if you then apply voltage, one side will be called cold and the other side will be cold, so it's pretty simplified.

I recommend you watch the old videos again. and depending on how much energy you can pump into them, you simply create a greater temperature difference between the hot and cold side and if you keep the hot side nice and cool, then the cold side is even colder. We did that back then and of. Of course, the main point of the matter is the enormous energy loss that a Peltier has created. Item that hasn't changed yet because eK or Intel can't do anything about physics but EK now has it or this thing has been around for a long time.

The eK Quantum Delta 2 technology has long been an improved version of this cooler. So here, almost to say a completely new development, according to the EK product page, the thing also has completely new PLT elements that are there, which are what they are. normally you know, so the top and bottom are so white, made of aluminum oxide and eK has it here now. Aluminum nitride Peltier elements were installed, which are a bit grayer, and according to the product description, EKD even soldered them together for an upgrade. heat transfer between Coldplay and the cooler base and Peltier element to achieve even better temperatures and efficiencies.

I'm very, very excited. In fact, I think I bought this four months ago or something like that. Euros for him. I bought it for 12,900k. It officially only supports 12,900k and now I'm excited to see what we can do with it with 13,000k. I have no idea if this is compatible with the z97. We'll find out and I'm very, very curious to see how a 13.900k performs because it's still much more watch friendly than the 12000. I've almost forgotten about it. By the way, according to the eK website, the petierelement is specified at 210 watts, which also means that it will not be possible to completely cool a 13,900k under full load simply because of the part's power loss in Cinebench, for example, or Prime 95 can be much higher than 300 watts and we really need it for effective cooling, a ratio of around 50 percent with respect to the Peltier element, for example, if we want to dissipate 100 watts of the CPU well, then we need a Peltier element with 200 watts, so that's about the rule of thumb, but we also know From a launch standpoint, 13,900k in gaming is typically between 70 and 120 watts of power loss, so it should work fine for gaming.

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The heat from the Peltier element and ultimately of course also the waste heat from the CPU is released into the water and up here was only the control unit, which is not the cooler now, but that is the new control unit , basically what was on top. from the refrigerator here First of all, I think it's good that you now have it individually because it's not as good visually when it's hanging above it like that. Here you now have the option that it can be placed somewhere. On the case there is also an adapter plate, so in theory it can easily be placed somewhere in the case for a 120mm fan.

So of course I asked myself: is it like this and in a new case? but that's definitely not the case because if we go back to the above, we see that we have two connections marked h and c, very hot and cold, where before there was only one connection, so on the side you can see this that says beige connection. But before that, only one of these connections is for the temperature sensor, which goes on the back of the base of the refrigerator in the old one, that is, on the cold side of the Peltier element.

This just allows you to check what the temperature is in the cold. side and where the element is held. Now it happens with this control unit that there are two connections. I suspect this makes it much easier to regulate because not only do we know how cold it is at the bottom to perhaps avoid condensation, but also. We also know how hot the PT element at the top is. In pure theory of course it can be a problem if the thing doesn't cool down enough and the Peltier element gets too hot on the hot side, then in theory a PLT element can destroy itself, so it's definitely good that a small improvement has been made here.

Otherwise it looks the same to me, we still have an eight pin power connection, the same one we had on a CPU, I think it's here so it's also on the graphics card, I think it was on the EPS connection, that would be the CPU and in here you can see the little power connection that then leads to the Peltier but now the cooling block of the Delta 2 day and I have to say that from an aesthetic point of view, it is much better than its predecessor , just a lot simpler, we don't have the weird stuff in the middle anymore, really nice.

At the bottom we still have a rubber edge which must then be flush with the motherboard to prevent condensation. Of course, that always exists. We will definitely try to find out if it works well if we don't open it. It's also relatively unspectacular; in fact, you could confuse it a bit with a normal water cooling case, with the difference. being that here we have the connection cable for the current and here the one already mentioned with the two temperature sensors for hot and cold and I want an RGB connection. But then don't disassemble it yet because I have no idea what I will do.

I'll break something so I'll put it together now or we'll put it together right now and maybe we'll take it apart later and then we'll look at it again. I just wanted to start now. To assemble the refrigerator, I have not packed it. 13,000 900 base and then I'm going to put the cooler in here and I think it's going to be kind of extremely tight with the Xtreme, or almost too tight, I think I really have to see if I can get the cables in here. save it somehow, maybe you have to cut some of the insulation off of this rubber thing here, so maybe that works because alternatively, of course, you could also rotate this 90 degrees, then it would probably fit, so here then it would probably fit like this .

In principle the problem is that it doesn't fit at the bottom because it has a certain shape, but of course I could also try to take it off and see if the rubber thing can be rotated, that could be an idea I have now. I actually removed the four screws and with that I was able to remove the rubber part so we can see that it is cooler again. Worst case scenario, I just leave the rubber part out because. In such a short test, it doesn't really matter if condensation somehow forms or doesn't happen to us otherwise with transmission overclocking, even if you isolate it a little bit, it's not really a problem, I think I really find it interesting.

We have four smaller Peltier elements underneath, if I can actually see them, it's actually very, very interesting. We see Coldplay below the structure, so the one that makes contact with the refrigerator is nickel-plated, the other part above is nickel-plated. Well, it's just copper, maybe that's the reason. I can't really see if you've soldered it here or not. If that is the case then it is definitely much easier to solder copper than nickel and that would explain why that is the case. uncoated Anyway, it's an interesting structure, so it's immediately obvious that we can't turn it because it's just that one section of the thing is made to only fit in one direction, so I just assemble it without myself.

Now we've also briefly converted it to the contact frame simply because of course we want to get the maximum possible temperatures in this video and if we still have it. If you can get 4, 5, 6 degrees, then you should definitely take them with you. When it comes to RAM, today we use Trident, we have 6,800 c34 modules here, which should definitely give you a nice boost in performance. Just put it in for a moment and check if the cooler makes contact so it's not screwed. I really just put it in, it definitely looks good, so there's nothing in the way, so now we can continue mounting the thing on the back.

The intention is that you first place these pieces of rubber and then usually this foam is cut somehow like a Foam Rubber, you remove it here and then you stick it here, so I guess this is also supposed to help prevent condensation and then you put the back plate on it and screw it on from the front, but I have to say that I have relatively little interest in gluing it to the back of my dash because I don't know how easy it is to remove, so we'll leave it out again. I have to complain again, sorry, but this mounting mechanism is. particularly important for this one.

The prices in the refrigerator are not very good. Now I'm supposed to screw these pieces in here so they secure the backplate from the back and the cooler is mounted on that. there, right in the corner here. I mean, you can't touch it. There's no way you can reach there with your finger and somehow grab it and squeeze it is extremely annoying, so we finally did it, so the cooler is done. Sitting on it with the image here, the element is of course the residual heat of the thing is huge and that's why I took the opportunity to build a Mora, which I ordered over a year ago, I've now fitted it with fans assets, which Then goes under my table, so Arctic doesn't have to look good, it just has to be quiet and offer good performance, Architect fans are definitely the best.

I'm going to fill it now. I also received Apex Liquid Clear from Alpha Cool which is now perfect so the setup is almost ready to go. I just connected it differently to see if everything is okay. Like I said, the controller is fine too. connected, temperature sensors are connected, USB is connected and the power is on. The power was a completely normal 8 graphics card, now I will add a 40-90 and then we will see in Windows if everything works like this and if the software works like this because officially, according to the product page, it is only maximally compatible with the 12th generation and I'm curious if Intel has blocked the software somehow or something.

At least we'll have to find out. nothing exploded Well you can see the red LED inside glowing, but that was the case with the previous controller, now it will depend on the software. I would like to mention very briefly in passing. I think the new Maximus extreme is really very interesting. board, but what was Asus thinking by nesting the debug LED like this? You can really only see it directly from the front. Otherwise, as soon as you have a little left to right and that's what you'll have in the case, you won. I don't see any of that anymore, that's another way of saying it, nice development backwards Unfortunately, as expected, I can't install the software, he tells me that the CPU would not be compatible.

I was expecting something like that because. the software version is from august, the 13th generations were not there yet, it also says that they are not supported or they are just not listed among the supported CPUs, then I wrote to my Intel contacts and told guys like It seems compatible with the 13th generation , do you have a software update somehow? So they got back to me relatively quickly that they will be compatible, but not yet because apparently there is still a bug in connection with 13th gen and I said okay, no problem, send it to me. just the software anyway, otherwise I'll just build a motherboard next to it with the 12th gen and just put my USB cable on it, I can also do that so it's somewhere, yeah, we'll see how Intel responds, No?

Teait looks cute? Z is a 690 Mini x system with a 12,000 KS Intelbox cooler, a ramstick SSD, it already has Windows 11, which will be our cryo management system on the back of this portable monitor. Now I find that the pieces are super good. bugs or something like that where I can, I would say complete. I need a system with a huge monitor and now I'm going to try to install the cryo software with gen 12, it definitely looks good now it tells me I should connect the cooler here to the board, the software is already working, it says I'm in standby mode wait.

I still don't know if it really works properly because exactly. An error was detected in the fan. Check the fan connection. The water pump error is the text. It's interesting. I've actually been wondering why there is f&p here, why I have to connect it, because why should I do this here if I now have an external Mora? As in my case, it doesn't make any sense, why? They tell me I have to do this on top, so actually the control unit wants us to connect a pump and a fan there, luckily I'm alive. In 2022, everyone can be whatever they want, our island refrigerator.

It can also be identified as a pump in the future and this second case cooler and it's already a fan, it's just identified as a fan and as you can see our pump and our fan as well. The cooling is definitely at the beginning, of course it's so the controller has no idea what it's connecting because it just wants to have a signal from the speedometer, which means if you connect a pump or a fan or something else, the controller can't to do that. That's why I didn't feel like putting my Mora's cables in there, so I just connected randomlift somehow.

By the way, I think it's very, very cool how this error message keeps appearing in the background, so no more, but you can see I have it here. Somehow. i feel like i have no idea 100 times this error message is also good what windows does with it if you somehow stack 100 windows on top of each other why it opens every few seconds and then doesn't close because our pump and our fans they are connected but they are connected, which we can also see here. We have a 2200 fan and a pump. Now, hopefully, we can activate krüde mode here.

At least we will succeed. Take a look at what it's doing here. here at 13.9 degrees Calculate that from the current temperature i.e. ambient temperature here We can also see that the PT element consumes minimal power, the CPU is idle at 13,900k which is what happens because the temperature It's not much colder. 15 degrees The Krüger mode just seems ultra-stylish to me because it calculates this dew point based on the ambient temperature and, even now that we don't have, let's say, any insulation, we won't run the risk of having condensation water somewhere. Now I just wanted to switch to my other system and now I get the DT1 error, no idea, I turned it on again for the moment it seems to be closed.

We can also see that it works according to the temperatures because the temperatures could not be. I can't reach it with any water cooler, that's the good thing about this cooler, we see minimum temperatures here in the lower 14 degrees, that's something really cool, we see 13,900k 5.5 GHz. Now I'm going to take a little time while I am idle and Set everything in BIOS. At least now we know it works. I hope the Aero message doesn't appear all the time and now I'm going to try to configure the CPU properly because we want to. Of course, let's take.

Take a look at what temperatures and, above all, clock speeds you can play with and here you can see again perfectly what the increase in terminal speed can do, that is, increase depending on the temperature. I have now set it so that the base clock speed is 6.2. gigahertz of course all the cores are then loaded and it all depends on the temperature and depending on which core the CPU is currently under load we have between 5.8 and 6.2 GHz to see what you get at the end of Score, I probably run it twice because. Now, as I said, I have cpz information here for all sorts of things, but you can see the CPU temperature even here with the low test faded out, you can see that we never actually go above 70 degrees Celsius and consequently the clocks the MPU.

They are also tall. I'm curious to see what value we'll see in the end. We will see that the power consumption is technically between 60 and let's say 75 watts, which is also the range we are in in the individual games. The cores are smaller, which means we should see a decent boost in gaming when it gets to that point. I still have to adjust a little, that's a really bad result, 941 points, almost 1000 in year 20, so the performance is just complete. sick of course the RAM helps 6800 c34 which is really fast but the 6.2 depending on what the temperature is maybe 6.1 gigahertz they just make their value here so they can sort it normally if you do nothing you have one of 13,900k, by the way, around 830 to 850 points on top of the Cineplexx R20, now I have also done three gaming benchmarks to see how much more performance we can get from the system with over 6GHz, what we can do with pubg on humans .

At most, now you can also see some gameplay footage via UBS screen recording, the FPS here in the scene you can see is a bit lower, 40-90, than in the actual benchmark simply because is running in the background. but the CPU still works extremely well. Depending on the core, CPU temperatures are constantly between 30 and 50 degrees Celsius and this allows the 13,900k to rise to 6200 almost all the time and everyone knows that if the threshold I defined is exceeded 68 degrees Celsius, the CPU it briefly drops to 6100 megahertz on all cores, but even that is still absolutely sick.

The CPU, of course, requires a little more voltage than normal and for this I defined an offset of more than 170 mv in the Bauhaus. , which is a bit excessive, but if you think about the temperatures the CPU has and how low the load is, it's definitely not a problem from my point of view. As in the launch review, you can now see the average FPS in yellow. and the average CPU power consumption in blue on papchi we had IVECO HD resolution and the 13,900k was here with 625 FPS without modifications, so the stock actually needed just under 100 watts relatively fast with overclocking at 6.2 GHz through the cryo-cooler, performance increases by 7% to 668 FPS.

Even at the price of a 27 percent higher power consumption in Far Cry 6 at 1080p, we can get almost 10 more FPS out of the system through overcocking, but this only corresponds to an additional five percent, while in Battlefield 2042 the consumption energy increases by 18%, the increase actually decreases. The reason for this is that the CPU load in Battlefield is much higher than in other games. This can also be seen very clearly when. If you look at the power consumption, here we have 152.2 watts, which also means that the CPU simply warms up a little during operation and therefore reaches the predefined threshold values ​​much more quickly.

Consequently, the 13,900k can only remain between 5.8 and 152.2 watts. 6 GHz Performance increases by 6% while consumption is 21% higher. The cryo-refrigerator is definitely something extremely shameless in different aspects. First of all, the price of more than 500 euros or almost 600 euros with shipping is a real word. a refrigerator and of course you should not forget that it will also consume you money throughout its useful life because the power consumption of the refrigerator is on average 120 to 150 watts, at least in my test it does not constantly consume the 200 watts shown here theoretically could, but there is definitely still an increase in the power consumption you get from the system.

You'll notice it and of course that would have to cool down too, which means from my point of view there's also the power consumption of 13,900k. Also, you need at least 2360 radiators in the system to be able to use the cooling technology sensibly, that's also a problem, that's all. It's a lot of fun here with this little mini structure. basically to get around the Intel lock because right now it's not officially a caddy for the 13,900k, but it will be soon, but Intel has also told me this several times, and also wrote that they would soon provide again with a beta version where I can try everything and of course we'll do it and then we'll probably do another follow up video when it's actively running on this system and then hopefully it won't spit out this stupidity.

I don't get the DT1 error message anymore because all I can tell is that the cooler is connected to the system here with the 12,100k so that can't be the problem and the DT1 error according to the manual like I said somehow someone is telling me something. with the temperature sensor or the cooler if I'm right on the CPU and both of them don't make sense to me because I can easily read the temperature which is correct and the performance is also adequate I mean we did 6.2 gigahertz which It is a leader. I mean we have 6.2 GHz in gaming with a 13,000 that can reach 100k, these are temperatures that the 12,000 HJK couldn't even with dry ice, that's really crazy, it's completely messed up the kind of temperature that the 12,000 scales. 13,900. k has done it, so at launch it also set a new world record at 8.8 gigahertz, basically the fastest CPU ever, the fastest clock speed ever validated and it shows, so the CPU It has huge potential and I'm really excited to see what the 13,900k can do when it arrives, because it's supposed to be around 6 gigahertz with, say, a normal AIO with a normal water cooler, if you put the cooler on it then maybe even 6.36 .4 I don't know, I'll be surprised, of course we'll test everything and hopefully the software will be ready for it.

I guess I'm not entirely sure if you should buy the piece now. It's extremely cool, from a technical point of view, it's incredibly well implemented with this external controller, so the whole hardware setup is super cool, that's the only thing that really appeals to me. The software is a bit annoying, so I'll give Angel feedback again. I hope they fix it because what bothers me the most currently is that no matter what, it always immediately goes back to what I would say is standard mode, then it's not active, the element crashes here, then like. As soon as there is the slightest problem, the element fails, it does not return to the kryomote.

I wish the controller would try to return to the kryomote, because if you're clueless for a moment, it can somehow do it. It could be a software bug that the temperature sensor is going crazy and instead of trying to go back to crew mode it always kicks you out and then of course depending on how you have set the company speed boost it is the most free if you have done so. you didn't define it correctly or you just lose a lot of performance because you don't have to forget that the voltage is still applied, which means that if you no longer cool it properly then the day will definitely go down a lot or from my point of view. see also it would be important that the software is activated when the system starts it can always be in cryo mode because that is also annoying reboot and stays in standard mode why with Intel let's do it and I can't imagine that any of you would do it I like to do it software adjustments every day when you turn on your computer.

Nobody does that every day so I have no idea, so for more than 600 euros or around 600 euros it is not possible, otherwise it is great. The performance is completely incredible, it surprised me too. I thought six gigahertz would be fine. It turned out to be 6.2 in the sense that I would like to thank you for watching.