Pour Paiting an entire bass guitar + resin!

welcome back to our poor painting week and today we have an exciting video for you. We're going to take this old starter

bass

and turn it into this beautiful

bass

, but to do that we first need to take part of this apartment, so we're going to start unscrewing all of these things, covering them up and making sure no paint gets in there and ruins the inside of the apartment.

guitar

so we can still play it and then I'll have to sand this all down. finish so our paint will adhere, paint this once it's painted, we'll cover everything with that clear coat of

resin

that will protect it so we can still touch it and it won't just be something nice to look at.

Let's go ahead and get started, okay, so it wasn't until I was actually almost sanding this base surface. I was wondering why it was taking so much effort to actually rub this in and get rid of some of the stain. of sealant on the surface and then I realized, looking at a little old chip from a show from a long time ago, that this is actually a plastic dip base, it's plastic that's around the surface, which means I'm not going to remove it. without a ton of tough sand that could alter the shape and the sound and the ability to put it back together, so I just scraped the surface of the plastic real good, gave it lots of little grooves and things that should be more than enough work to leave that the paint sticks and the worst gets worse, if this turns out to be just a display piece, this thing cost between 25 and 30 dollars, so I can certainly afford to want the top of this to be the theme of conversation.

I want the top and sides to be where the focus of the paint is, which means I'm going to

pour

the back first and once the paint dries I can flip it over and

pour

on top to have both sides covered so there's no weird discontinuity, you'll see all the same paint marks and colors and things like that, so we'll start with the back and you saw that it had both adhesive tape and covered with plastic so that when we paint this. only the surface that will be covered with the rest will be safe by the time we are done.

I'm going to start putting some paint on these cups, we have silicone and we're going to paint a little

guitar

, get this. in your you should be able to see more of that, there we go, let's paint this guitar, oh man, that was a rush, it was definitely the heaviest Flip Cup I've ever done, man, did this thing show up for us in case wouldn't you do it? I don't understand the details of this, we have a big old cup centered right next to the center of the guitar. You'll notice that if I place a real center, there's a huge curve that's cut out so you can angle your arm and body to play. guitar better, so if I put it right here this would go up there too and leave a big gap at the end of the guitar, so what I did instead was place it mostly towards the end and when I removed the cut it gave it just the slightest squeeze to help push some of the paint out, that's why we have so much coverage here that it barely stretches and then when you pull the rest of the guitar along the edges, you get this beautiful little stripe like the green and the black and white paint really play together and just get absorbed by the edge.

I needed a little more for the top here, so I made a little cup with some leftover paint and just sprayed it over the top and empty areas. We had, I took this little guy here, scraped some paint off the bottom and just applied it where needed. I tried to cover the sides even though we said we would prioritize the other side of the guitar when painting. The top side, whatever is left on the top that goes over the top is what we're going to look for, but in the meantime I wanted to make sure that we have all the coverage here so that on the next side we can work with less pain and that will give it a more mm appearance, which is what I'm going for, so let's let this baby dry, it's going to smell like paint all over my house tonight and we'll come back to this for the next step, then the

resin

and then we're on.

I'm going to put it back together so let's take a look at the back of our guitar, yeah pretty nice dry stuff, a little bit of stretching but the colors came out pretty solid, there are some thin spots along the edges a the ones I should pay attention to. pay close attention and I have removed the protective plastic from this little panel this is where the actual electrical components of the guitar are and I don't know if you can make it out but there are a couple of little spots where the paint came off because it was too attached to the little ones pieces of plastic, so I'll probably go back and touch it up with some black paint, green paint or something, but now we're going to paint the top of the guitar and I went pretty extra with the paint I prepared, I didn't even use the drill bit of water everything floats and just paint and this should give us less prep so we should see some really nice cells on this this piece of masking tape was used to keep On the guitar pickup you can see there's a big tape that plug the whole back into the outlets and I have this resting on top so the paint doesn't go anywhere there and I have the other little pickup wire covered. part of the neck is taped where this is then attached just so the paint doesn't get too thick and then warp the level the neck sits on.

You may have noticed little pieces scattered everywhere, that's because I've been taking a small razor, this is not a straight razor. I've been taking a little safety razor blade and just removing these little clumps of paint on the top because as the paint dripped down the sides, the spots were building up. they lift up and drip off the guitar, they end up a little lumpy and if I don't shave them off, they'll end up as a texture on the finished product, so I'm not trying to remove everything, just the big stuff. lumps and big pieces like that and that should be enough, here we go, last point I want to mention.

I don't know if I've ever talked about this, but I use a level to make sure my surfaces are right. The table or my room where I paint one of them is slightly off, so to make sure my face is nice and level at all angles, I stacked an extra cup, these are the five cups that my base will rest on or dry on the painting. and this stack has two cups instead of one and that's a little harder to cut. I tilted the guitar just enough to keep it level. I'm going to prepare the paint and we'll start pouring it well.

Oh, and me. I almost forgot, we already pointed out that as the paint drips around the edges and leaves those little gobs, we don't want those gobs on the bottom of the guitar and if we try to scrape them off with the razor when it's all dry. We'll remove more paint then we'd have to redo the whole bottom, we don't want that so what I did instead was have a small stack of paper towels that I cut up and I'm going to wet them and just treat the bottom of the guitar, smooth it out and wipe off any excess paint so we don't have that problem this time.

I've been so excited about a project for a while now. We have the guitar, the back is painted and the top. It's painted, I've put it back together, this comes with advantages and challenges that we'll go over in a second and we're about to add some clear resin if the resin here that you've seen Muse with some of my other videos and we "Let's "apply just a small lighter coat on the back. The reason we're applying a very light coat is that if we keep the amount of resin very thin, it will cover the paint and protect it from scratches and chips, and that's it." Don't drip down the sides if we keep it too thin, then the surface tension between the resin and the little bumps in the paint will keep it from leaking out, but it's a very, very thin amount, so I'll use gloves to just spread it over the edge and cover it there, that's the resin for the advantages and challenges.

Assembling the guitar now means I don't have to worry about resin seeping into the area with the electrical components. I can just pour the resin in and be good, I don't have to do any cleaning or maintenance, I can just set it and forget it, so that's the main reason I'm doing this. The disadvantage of setting up Attar in advance is that it is very unwieldy. I had to do it. I added a few extra bits to make sure I can get the guitar level. Remember we have our level to make sure the resin slides all over the place creating weird clumps as it cures, so it's level, but I had to fix this quite elegantly.

So I won't show you this yet, but we'll take a look at the completed guitar before the videos. Man that's a nice shiny bass, it's good though I like it and actually the resin has brightened up. some of the clear coats of the paint I like the tint, it's not as bad as it used to look, it has an interesting feel, it has dimension and has given new life to some of the colors underneath the greens that already look more vibrant, yellows are richer, blacks and whites have more subtle tones between them, this is one of the reasons why many artists love to seal their paintings with resin, apart from the obvious protection advantages, it simply makes it look look so good and we have most of the resident for the top of the guitar, so we can do a thicker layer and make it really shiny and shiny, but we'll come back to that in just a second.

Boy oh boy I wouldn't experiment. This turned out to be me. I had a great time painting this thing after the resin was fully cured. It looks absolutely beautiful with these vibrant greens bursting out from under this layer of resin. It's absolutely beautiful. Now there are a couple of things to call attention to because, first of all, there were some inconsistencies with the way the resin was cured because my surface was not one hundred percent level. Looking back, attaching the neck ahead of time allowed me to reattach and rebuild my guitar without any internal issues, but adding the neck to this base to add the resin made it very difficult to balance and was a little out of place. and there was a little distortion in the resin, so I went back and touched it up with just small areas of resin, but that left little areas of warping. maybe you can see a little bit down there and I could totally photograph it in a way where all you see is the brightness and you don't see any distortion, but that's not fair to you because you probably want to go home and try this yourself, maybe with any other piece of wood or a large surface, and I will let you know that it was very difficult to get a smooth resin surface.

You may see some of the same distortion from the point of contact, but that's just a few. things it is a brand of resin I used different resins can be leveled in different ways some are more mobile in other words less viscous less sticky more fluid they are all the same and some are not some are very fluid and will leak in places and just They do their thing, it's brand by brand and I happen to like this one despite how it worked for this experiment. Another thing I want to point out is that there are a couple of small lumps that I couldn't keep. trace of the resin as it was poured, dried and cured, so there are a couple of small bumps right from where it would drip around the side.

You can see maybe a few more visible here and this is the back of the bass as we talked about. As before, this one is a little softer, but has less resin and was handled much more closely. I kept an eye on it most of the time, so there are little lumps here too and whatever I could do with all this guitar, I could do. Accept that it looks the way it does or you could go in and sand everything because you can sand the resin, but it is a time consuming process and requires a lot of tool work.

You want to make sure everything is level as it is. When sanding you don't want to go too deep into the resin which is then sanded with paint and after sanding you have to use a very coarse grit to start with which scratches it up and the rougher it gets the easier it is to scratch things up. that's how you get a smooth, consistent surface and then to get it back to this reflective polish state you would have to go through dozens of individual grains moving a little less rough each time until you get to a perfect mirror shine like you have here.

Naturally and simply, it is more time than I want to dedicate. I would have to do this indoors because I would need to see because when I get home after work, the sun has already set and I can't see what I'm doing. so I don't have time and since I don't have time I don't have the area with proper ventilation and lighting and I just don't have that kind of sandpaper right now and I wanted to show you this. I'm experimenting so I'm going to keep this little twisted base. I really love how it turned out with all its imperfections.

It's simply one of the most beautiful things I've ever done with poor paint.until now and I am very proud to have been able to. to share with you and I just want to say thank you for watching, don't forget to like, comment and subscribe. It's always a pleasure to have you in the videos. This is Ben Soufflé.