Fix a LB7 2002 Silverado 2500HD Duramax with leaking fuel filter housing that won't start or prime!

hello youtube, thanks for coming back to the cassidy car cave, so today we're going to talk a little bit about the

2002

lb7 chevrolet

duramax

2500 hd again last time I did some work trying to clean the injectors a little, to see if we could clean them the smoke that came out at idle. This truck has approximately 240,000 miles and all injectors have been replaced. It should be burning a little cleaner than it is. It seems to have gotten worse and worse in recent years. I don't know eight or ten thousand miles, so the sea foam did its trick, I think it really helped quite a bit, but if I'm honest, as you should always be, I think the sea foam probably killed the O-rings. that are inside the

filter

housing

on these trucks, now the

filter

housing

s on these get messed up quite often and this one has probably never been done so it didn't take much to completely dry them out and ruin them, but I was coming back from the other day.

Knoxville pulling a trailer and the truck wouldn't

start

at a rest area it just rolled over but nothing and I got out and looked at the

fuel

filter housing and there was only diesel and of course, of course that shouldn't be there so So I did a few things and pushed the plunger a couple of times. It was obvious that it was just sucking air in instead of keeping it out and I was able to squeeze it and get it to work. I worked on it and prepped the pump and drove it straight home and brought it here to the shop and haven't moved it since, but obviously there's O-rings and stuff in there, so I've got the rebuild kit, we'll go through the process. today from rebuilding the filter housing for the

fuel

filter and hopefully if it's letting air in around those o-rings, which I'm sure it was, it may also be causing some of the smoke issues so I'll fix it. we will get.

When we

start

, we'll do this and we'll go through it, um, step by step, basically what we're going to do is remove the turbo pipe to get more access and then we'll disconnect the lines for the fuel remove the bolts, remove this whole housing and then I'll go to the bench and we'll replace the o-rings, put it back in and hopefully have a clean burning diesel, these trucks will always be loud. true, they are not as smooth and quiet as the new common rail injection or direct injection, but it is a great truck, it is still a traction machine and I think this will help everything run so at least I can drive it without worrying for getting stuck. in knoxville because i actually have to go to charlotte, north carolina, i bought another car to fix it up and sell cars and deals.

I'll update my youtube channel with that shortly, but yeah, big exciting shock, another black Mercedes, okay, let's go. It started fine, so first thing is to remove the two clamp bolts holding this turbo pipe. The tensions are 11 millimeters in the bushing of these, but we will undo them, we will not take this tube to the end. out of the way we just want to move it so we can access the filter housing here we go okay so let's see if we can get this out of here without doing too much surgery. You could also remove the turbo pipe. like some other parts, but let's see how we do it, we're just going to try to disconnect the fuel lines, unscrew them and see if we can lower this down or up without doing too much major dismantling here, so take a look at what we do.

What we're going to do here is the fuel filter housing that's

leaking

. Get a good video shot there, so here's your plunger that looks like two bolts back here holding it to two supply lines, return line each and some electrical connectors, we can remove it and lower it down. down and get it out that way, so the first thing we're going to do is undo these two clamps on the fuel lines, make sure you put something underneath to catch the drips because the diesel is going to get everywhere and we're going to try to get it out that way.

Get out of there, okay, so we have the fuel intake line disconnected. I'm going to break the bleed screw on the fuel filter housing just to let some air into the system. Hopefully this will prevent so much diesel from spilling everywhere. I'm sure if this is necessary or not, but we have to take that screw out later to replace the O-ring anyway, so let's go ahead and open it up, it's a 13. And I'll put you in my perspective here, that's it here . let's put it in there, give it a little crack, open it up a little bit, hopefully that will allow some fuel to drain back into the system, into the tank and not so much into the floor, okay, we take out both lines and it's really not that.

A lot of diesel came out, so that's good. The next thing we're going to do is the electrical connectors for the fuel heater that need to come out, so you have a red one here, just give it a little twist and it comes out. On the other one, the ground uses the filter housing as a ground, like this that you have to get a t20. You'll need it again later anyway, a t20 torx bit and let's take this one out and we can disconnect that little torx bolt and remove the negative cable. Alright, if you watched my other video on how to do the meerschaum directly into the fuel filter, you know that there is an air, excuse me, a water float at the bottom of your fuel filter that we have to disconnect, so again It's this connector right here. and just be very careful not to break that plastic, use a pick to push it down and it should separate nicely, so we disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines, disconnect all of our electrical connections before removing the two bolts. that hold onto the fuel filter housing, pull the fuel filter out, it's going to be a lot easier to torque it off now while it's still attached to the frame and the body and the engine, so if you pull it out of there and try to pull it out.

Pull it apart, you won't have much use for it, so get a big old strap wrench or a big old oil filter wrench like this one, loosen that up, get it out of there, okay, the sun is shining perfectly through the window of the car. cave here right in my eyes, so that's perfect and General Motors and the zoos that have set the record for most fasteners within a three inch area with different sizes, that is, 12 millimeters to take the housing out of the engine block bracket fuel filter, two nuts. right here take those two out and you'll have a fuel filter housing on your work table I'll see you there okay we've got our housing assembly on the table here and we're going to take it apart hopefully we'll end up with parts that look like these, so basically we have two o-rings, two seals, a third o-ring, a new bleed screw with o-ring, and three torx head bolts holding the priming pump on, so let's start by taking the three t20s.

Take the Torx head screws out of the priming pump and we'll take it apart. Okay, we got those screws out. This is where you need to be a little careful. Take out the fuel heater, but this little ball should stay in place or at least. don't lose it there is a spring on the bottom that keeps it controlled so keep in mind as you pull this out here we go you can feel the spring release here is the fuel heater there is our magic ball that I don't want to lose and the screens come out fine too, the first o-ring we are going to take out is what they call the big o-ring, this one here is very dry and crusty, no doubt in my mind, it has 240,000 miles on it a little surprised, it's not even falling apart in my hands, clean it good, get a nice new seal, that's one of the new ones, very good, very good now, the second one usually surrounds the fuel heater here, but on mine it's trapped inside the housing, give it the turn, it's right there in the housing, take that one out and we'll just put it in the fuel heater and it will slide right to where it needs to be, clean it up a little bit, okay and then The third one, we'll do this last one, it's here, brittle, dry and disgusting.

Install the new one. Nice and tight. Now, put it back on the plunger. To open it, you will find two fairly large seals on the plunger. Pull these. I guess all of these are bad, but if I had to put money down, I would say these are the ones that have hardened and allow air into the system. My symptom was that when I tried to start the truck, it would not start. it just flipped over like it was out of fuel, the side with the lip in or the notch goes up and that's why the air was being drawn into the fuel system, iron diesel doesn't mix well so you go with that notch , that lip down, okay, down, okay, we're ready to reassemble, we're going to start with the fuel heater back in the housing, just put some rotella or diesel, whatever you use for the engine oil from your truck, in both. o-rings so they slide nice and easy again put the spring put the magic ball in which I can't believe I haven't lost yet put it down and just gently seat it in there you should feel the o- rings catch but then the fuel heater It bottoms out and you can loosely fit the two bolts or torx screws holding it there, slide the top o-ring in, have it fold under the plunger and you can push it out. the rest of the way down put the spring on we've already greased this o ring well and we'll secure a couple of screws and again the same thing just go around tighten each one a little until they're completely tight that way you get a nice seal and smooth, okay, you can hear it sucking air through the intake, that's good, put our bleed screw back in there, come on, okay, reinstall, put the fuel filter back in, watch us do it, we have our Replace the fuel filter housing.

Let's start the truck first, see if it starts. That was a problem before. That's why I did this project. It's really because I was having problems. Like I said, it just died in the rest area and would roll over. but it wouldn't start and when I opened the hood you could tell there was just diesel fuel dripping around that fuel casing which wasn't supposed to do that so we can get some improvements although with the smoke in the truck we got a lot. on the meerschaum injection I did earlier, but if air is still getting into the system we may get more improvement in the darker smoke at idle, so let's turn it on and see how we did.

Okay these trucks are super loud so I'm gonna yell a little bit but it came on let's see if we have any leaks and then we'll check and see how we're on the uh spoke everything looks good there I'll just give it a The plunger too make sure Make sure there are no air leaks around the plunger. You can see it well. You can definitely see it from here. It's still too blue for my taste. I'm going to drive it to the beach. Anyway, well, I'm going on a trip. Travel somewhere probably this weekend. I'll give an update when I finish this video in the comments and we'll see if it helped with the smoke, but it definitely helped with the non-start.

Thank you so much.