Layered Face Frame Haircut Tutorial | (G)old Clip
Mar 26, 2024Alright guys, so we're going to start with this cut, parting the hair towards the center and then going straight towards the center of the back and then combing each side towards the side we based this
haircut
on a center part, but If you have a guest with a side part, you can do that too. Simply start thehaircut
by parting it on the side you wear it. Now we are going to create a V shape in the front bangs and basically the shape that I determine. How far I want that v to go is where I want the bangs to end, so I go to the edge of my eyebrow and then braid that section down.You don't have to do this with your guests. You could Sometimes twist it up, that braid annoys people if it hangs right in front of your
face
, but sometimes a braid works great to separate your hair instead of using aclip
, it's better for presentation so What we're going to do is start diagonally back to the right. outside of that triangle, so we're going to follow the head shape down. I'm going to start creating thatface
frame
, so I cut out my guide, decide where I want those pieces to start falling along her face and then as I move along the head. the shape of the head is starting to move away from me, so the key thing I want you to focus on in this cut as we work on it is that my elevation on the side of the head is going to change, I'm going to elevate further away from the head towards the camera instead of just bringing it right up to the face, what that will do for me is create that elevation and create a clearer facialframe
for the guest, so now that I'm moving to the back of the head you can see how high my elevation is compared to the beginning.If you go back to the beginning, you can see, but that lift was right in front of his face and then when I move to the back of his head, I started to lift much, much higher to create that feeling of lightness. Now this works for clients who have a lot of density as you work on the shape of the head, but if they have very fine hair, you don't have to raise it as much because you don't want to take away too much weight also in the front, I take my guide from a previously cut section, so I just pull a piece from the opposite side and then start cutting and do the exact same thing.
What we are mimicking the haircut on this side the reason we can mimic the haircut is because it is parted in the center, if it was parted on one of the sides then I would definitely make sure to adjust my lift accordingly. The lower density side and the higher density side would definitely make a higher lift on the higher density side or the side that it separates towards, so now we're going to comb out that marginal area and we're going to take one of my favorite tools this is the donald scott carving comb I use the 100 carving side this is available on freesalon education.com it is the best 35 tool you will ever buy I am using the wide tooth version and I just follow with a strong stroke and create that fringe broken which I will detail later in the dry cut, so then I add my brocade foam or chopping mousse to the hair cut and blow dry it.
I'm using a flat wrap technique for the most part just working the hair around the head and keeping the nozzle pointing down. The reason you have shiny hair is because the cuticle lays nice and flat and allows the sun to reflect off of it, so if you want to create soft, shiny hair. You have to keep that nozzle and the air flowing over the hair. You don't want to rough it up too much, so I use my Bracado vibro-treated iron. It's a really cool iron because it vibrates as you move. Lowering the hair so it creates less friction on the hair and less damage, which is one of my favorite things about that straightener, so now I have my hair straightened, prepped and ready for my dry cut.
This is the 5.5 inch Mizutani Puffin. scissor actually we just did a class and we had a lot of cool people in the class and they were really excited about the puffin scissor so this is a good sample of what it does. What I love about having a dry cutting scissor is the fact that dry hair can ruin a scissor, so if you have your main scissors for precision cuts, it is always good to have a dry cutting scissor. It is designed to handle dry hair, so you can see that the thicker blade has more power, works and glides.
Through hair much better, the blade is also designed to glide through hair so it is a good tool to maintain the life of the scissors, but also has a smoother feel when you swipe and glide across the cutting point . how I'm doing it, I'm taking those vertical sections, I'm just doing a nice deep parallel point cut, what that does is it doesn't take off a ton of weight, it just softens the edges, softens the ends of the hair to make them look very good and smooth in the haircut. They make a kind of concave, I guess they lift the hair a little bit and just detail the ends and then I go over it and smooth out the bottom part that I like to cut. the perimeter lasts for the most part on most haircuts because I don't like determining length and length and basing the haircut on the length I created.
I like to go in and create the length of my layer first because that's the most important part. then at the end detail the baseline of the haircut, now we're just going to do a slide cutting technique across the face frame and in the bang area we got a lot of texture with that Donald Scott carving comb, it was easy . way to quickly cut the bangs, but now I just go over it and detail it with the sponge and the scissors half closed on the scissors while I go down the hair, you can see that texture that really comes out, finish it with a little hairspray to Bracade hair and that is our final look.
I hope you liked this video. I know it was short and sweet. Definitely watch it a few times. You will learn different things, but I hope you like it. Let me know in the comments below. thanks for looking
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