Ragmela 4 - RVO Cardigan/Jacke beginnend mit einem Schalkragen, an einem Stück gestrickt

Hello and welcome to the knitting room. In this video I will show you how to stretch a

cardigan

, I learned the technique and everything in one piece, starting with the neck and also the panel in one piece. Color gradient cons with a double And I'm going to use a size 3.0 needle for this. Of course, you can use any length of yarn. Then you just have to recalculate the conversion split accordingly, but that always depends on the stitch test, like Trojan. es, so you will also do that with a temporary neck cast and for this you will also need a crochet hook and some yarn.

We'll start with that and as I said, I have a gradient four-day beard that is capable and ladies' dream sews it super quality and that's why I like it a lot Well, if you want to stretch the same, this double means the ease of being, but There are also many others in the online store that vary, so let's get started. Now, first of all with the calculation, then let's see. Maybe you already know it from mine. In other videos, we basically always follow the same method. First you do a mass test and see how many points you need to measure ten centimeters.

Then you take a tape measure and place it around your neck and guess how big the circumference of your neck should be with what Kadi is able to do. It is advisable that you choose a fairly narrow collar so that it sits on your neck anyway. The weight will cause the neck to spread out a bit, so it's best to choose a fairly narrow neck. For me it measures 70 centimeters and my stitch test showed that 22 stitches is ten centimeters, which means that for 40 centimeters I need 88 stitches in total for the entire fastening. Now I want to stretch a direct line one point at a time, which means I have to subtract your points from these 88.

Then there are 84 more points. I divide these 84 points by 3, there. they are double 36 24 which is 83 08 24 goes exactly, I was lucky if that's not your case if you have 23 points or you would like to make a larger neck circumference It doesn't matter as soon as you have a leftover Point here, write it down and then always add it figuratively to the front. So now I have these 84 points divided by three, 28 points, that means I need 28 points for my back, I need 28 points for my edge and. half is 14 points and the Radler machine can do this. It's an open

jacke

t, of course you can't stretch it with the front, which means we have to leave these stitches for now and just take one stitch. on each side first in a single point and then there are still 26 points left here which you will then gradually increase in the neckline 26 points, that is, per side, then 13 points to then get the total number for the whole day, so now I have to see it because yes, I would like to start with one with a scarf and with a temporary cast, we actually divided the back and yes, the whole part into two halves, so from the back there are 14 people here and 14 together 28 later. each of the cyclic stitches then the sleeves then offer the radler stitch and one stitch for the front of the dough making a total of 14 28 30 31 stitches on the side I'm just going to say it like this and accept it just like that because then we have to start with the provisional cast on with the provisional cast on and first we have to stretch this side and then stretch the next side and then we have to stretch this side until we can pick up 31 stitches here and then We have to stretch this side until we can pick up 31 stitches here and I'll show you a little bit of that here too because we do it with shortened rows.

If you want, first take a look at the principle of shortened rows. Then you can see my video Rin shortened at the collar cuffs in the rv hof. In fact, I explained it pretty well. So let's start with the scarf crane and I would like to knit the neck of the shawl with a small pattern and I would like to stretch it. 15 points wide. 15 machines. For this you now take your right bonn and the crochet hook and, relatively loosely, simply cast on stitches in a very simple air chain and it will be complete. No matter how much you do, that means no, no.

It doesn't matter, of course there may be more than we want to knit and I want the shawl collar and the border to be 15 centimeters wide, which means that of course there have to be more than 15 stitches and it is best to make a few more with In case it gets stuck or something so that no mishap happens because this chain of air masses is basically of no interest, it will open again later. If you have any questions about the video, you can visit me on Facebook. also under milas streck stube, which is where I have it.

A page has been created with the videos shown here on YouTube. There you can leave comments or ask questions or also in my Facebook group, Strict Melas we also talk. Everything else, especially natural knitted things, but also everything else, I think it should be enough for me, it just broke, I only said that the sound collar will be 15 centimeters wide, that of course is not true, but 15 masses and that's approximately. eight centimeters fine for me, then start. I'm going to show you again, so this can be a 50 percent cotton and 50 percent polyester blend battery, relatively easy to care for, goes well in the washing machine and with longer wear.

I won't be able to tell until the end, when I have pulled the kadi, how much length of run I needed in total because I will first wrap the doubles that are still missing and leave it when I have put my arms still so I can know what color it will continue with, so I start babbling from the outside to stretch it, I just like it better, of course, you can do what you have, of course, you can do whatever you want and also, like I said, add one every other. So now we have our beautiful air mass chain here and you have to look ahead, here you can see the loops and if you turn the ball a little bit you can see these little hills, these little mountains and that's exactly where we want three.

So don't don't stitch right there in the front on these loops, which actually look like woven stitches, but it turns to the side and I hope you see it like this and now it's going to be all day once I've done it so now the first one. . The stitch will simply be taken out here. Now the next knight gets stabbed on this hill and in the back and tries to stab him as cleanly as possible. Then they'll pull this roll out, so it's pretty good if it doesn't get stuck in there. I had it again. I'll show you again here on this little mountain one stitch and I'll pick it up with the needle and the next one and that's what it's doing now, so far it's had 15 stitches on the needle that I already picked up. my 15 stitches in these masses of cheeky air I'll finish it and I'll start with the first row here, pick up the thread and in this first row and only in this first row the first stitch on the right is stretched and the first stitch on the right and the second stitch on the right and then we start here directly with the pattern with the small one, which means that you will always alternately knit one stitch on the right and one stitch on the left and then move exactly on the back row. , then the stitch that was then stretched on the right is worked on the left and vice versa.

I'll show you, just look, now we're here in our first row, which immediately comes to an end and thanks to it. In the plan, we would have to be a little careful where the right side ends. I had almost forgotten about it now. We want to stretch the edge of the jack so we can pick up the stitches nicely afterwards and that means the first stitch is always lifted until it is stretched. to the left and the last stitch is always stretched to the right by squeezing a little, that was only in this first stitch that we stretched it to the right, otherwise it will be as it is now, now you go to the second row, take the closure, I have it in front of the work and I lift the stitch as if to stretch it to the left, just lift it and then you will see here a left stitch, which means that now it is stretched to the right and now the whole thing comes back alternately with 1 right and left alternating always at the same time.

In the end we went back to 15 stitches, it wasn't that long and here it's just a right stitch and the last one, no matter if it's a right stitch or left stitch, it's always stretched to the right and turned again and then the one that starts the third row again take the thread as if to purl knit, simply slide and then again there is a purl stitch right left right left this is how you do it until the beginning of the sixth row I have already reached the sixth row and we knit ten stitches in the sixth row, we stretch 10 stitches and see how we have 78, that is, there are five stitches left on the side.

Turn the job. Now we are knitting a shortened row for the first time. Let's tighten this grass here a little bit and weave this row back and that's our seventh row. Don't forget to count this short row, that's the seventh row here. Now the last one is on the right again and Catrin and the first time, it slid like it was inside out and that's according to the pattern. This is now our eighth row here. Don't forget to count these rows, otherwise everything will get mixed up. , that's what happened to me, so I speak from experience, so here come our walls.

Let's stretch this Hagen tube well and knit now that there is a straight machine underneath, completely normal and Japanese. Continue the pattern and the last stitch is fine. -hand again now comes the new AP row and that is now the 93rd and you keep doing this on every 6th row which means next time on the 12th row turn back one stitch and stretch it with the hare tubes on the 18 in each. sixth row you do this now twist once shortened once stretch until you get to 62 time that means you have to stretch these shortened ten times and then we'll meet again in a moment so now comes the part that's really fun for me something happens here if you drop something here, you have to do everything again, but we are looking because and not only you, I see that now you have become a bow here and now I have extended the 62nd of the row and I have knitted the shortened ten times in every sixth row and if you see this up here in the long arc then you can clearly see 31b here, let's say 31 large stitches, two rows each make one large stitch that you can always sew on afterwards to pick up stitches and if the accounts, at least according to my calculations there are 31 points, which is how I want it to be if you had calculated more at the beginning then of course there have to be more points to make and the rows also have to be a little longer but remember in all cases if you make it bigger I am a little bit wider since I want it to be a little bit wider in the neck remember that you always have to stretch the shortened ones inside so now we are going to cut the thread like this and that is on a needle o The thread stays still now, so cross your fingers for me now, let's see how it works now, so now I pull the chain stitch very carefully on the needle and now I do it very carefully with each additional stitch, so so that we don't drop it and then you have it and again a small point so that I can get my legs out so well, yes, there you are. you have it and you don't sew it and you pull it and now he does that the whole row now I have put all the stitches on the needle there are exactly 15 stitches and I can take out the auxiliary layers and the wool house now you have all the stitches on the needle and now the other thing will happen, stretched part, now we start the second piece from the smaller and shorter side that is folded inwards and this is now our first row and remember that in every sixth row there has to be a shortened row. stretch again now we are starting again here Inside, the first stitch is knitted again to the right, the first stitch is knitted differently than usual with the cat edge, stretch this stitch to the right and now you have to put point. backwards and then we start with 1 on the right now I place the stitches differently and also the needle and a left one and here I can sew on the back right and I turn the left stitches again left right left right then I put. them backwards and he thinks rich and turns left.

I pull you right here so you can't even see the damage and here again. On the right, we'll pull this a little bit and we'll tie it right away so it doesn't come undone, tighten it a little bit and tie it and then comes the second row with the wide one in the C and then you do as usual, you remove the thread and release it here and now you just stretch back using the pattern and a shortened section again in every sixth row. Now I've stretched my 62 sharks on this side too. I knitted a shortened row in every sixth row.

This is what a small crescent looks like and I'll show you. See how we do our division, how we place the markers now.For a neck circumference of 40 cm, I calculated 88 stitches for myself, from these 88 stitches, we subtract 4 loops, when 84 stitches divided by 3 were 28, that is, 28 for the front, 28 moments, 28 for the back, 28 for the front, 14 and the four wobbly points. We only have As we said, in the front the kadi will go with the one with a V neckline, that is, we will divide this one here and only one stitch will be cast on per side for the front.

There will be 26 points left and us. I will divide these 26 by two for each side, which will then be 13 I will do them on each side here in the neckline so now we have to look and put them on our markers and I have here which is the back and the back there I also want to mark two more points in the middle, that is, 28 minus 2026 divided by two, which would be here 13 points here 13 pointsthen one marked after your 1 and here two points we are then on our 28 here comes another mark for the line here come the 14 points for the arm again animals here comes the branch like the invader now comes the front with a point and here we also put a brand because here we have our countries so that a little bit of when the panel ends or since when or since when we in the pattern have to extend ourselves more like this That is our division of control and the division of the brand I think it was a little blurry so I'll show it again like this So here we have our entire back that I want in the middle in the middle also Cut two more points separately, that means that here on the front we start here on the front we have our band to the neck one mark one point one mark one point one mark 14 points cyclin marker mark 13 spinal cord points your colon points mark the other 13 spinal cord points your cycling point marker 14 make the marker raglan point marker al front of the part likes its length, then let's see what will work here in practice as I explained it so beautifully in theory, now we stretch our opening again, stop, stop, stop, stop, don't always forget the mark, just remove where it is woven the band now with the normal pattern and stretch this point well until now, here on the right, yes. now we put a marker because this is always our band 26 18 12 17.15 points is the band we have only put the marker now here you take it in your hand and you sew on the first hole here and you take a stitch which is the stitch for the front here comes a mark the front now comes a stitch for the cyclists stitch like the mark of the cyclist's line again now comes 14 stitches for the arm and always a stitch here so not down here but yes 89 10 13 and one is 14 by what now he comes again marks a point for a direct line mattia now you said yes.

First let's take 13 points on the back 13 37 9 10 and 13 now I want to mark the two center points here on the back separately. I'm on the right. place for a moment, yes, that was already in the back. Now the remaining 13 people come 5 13 so now it is more direct again maschera line moment here it was at the points 2 4 6 10 no, that was the back exactly 13 those were the The last people at the back we had a point for you to act . Now there are 14 stitches for the arm. 6 7 8 9 10 I'm 13 years old, so now I have to quickly put my needle back here, where I am. a screw but of course that's not an obligation if you already have a different one if these stitches are on another normal round knitting needle So you don't have to do something like that now, but otherwise it's very practical if I can stop it here later because now we had to the cyclists here so 14 stitches for the arm 46 in stitches for the arm now there is another wobble to sew again now comes a stitch for the front of the part to mark again so and now we are in our blender and I start here with what difficult the first point with the right I'm right um yes exactly so that the pearl pattern here in the correct system in the correct order in the correct pattern continues first let's see immediately yes, we have done it where now with a little care and also pull the questions a little so that the stitches that were on the left do not come loose too much and the team is yes and rantum and I tied them here again immediately so that they do not come undone in both sections, so I tightened it enough, I think that's okay too, now it's our Judas parts, nothing like I said and the division and that's pretty tight here now, that means now I take a longer needle and I knit it over it and you can now look here on this side that inevitably is the left side where we increase very well on the beach on the other side here which is the left side and I will always be in the straight rows to take the front in the back and the rider lines, that means this is now the front row for me, the route, the front row and this will now continue to the front with our chat.

The buttons you have to earn correctly and now see how the pattern starts so that place it always stretch it with the pattern maybe we are here this is now here on the right so this is now on the front the stitch that we stretch now here on the left this It is the land line of the frame. I don't want that here at all. Emphasize that it is also knitted on the left side and now we stretch everything across the entire back to the other side. First of all, everything is upside down as usual, this is how it should look and now we move on to the second round. , we start with the second row and although now I will take a stitch in every second row in front and behind the regulating stitches, always in front and behind the cycling stitches here in the front I will increase one mass in every sixth. row, that is, 13 men we still have to add 13 stitches here in the front so that we can reach the number of stitches for the back and also here in the back I will take stitches in every sixth row in front of these two. center points and take a point behind them.

I'll show you the increase again in the regulation stitches at the beginning of this row here, yes, ok, remove the trend and then start here with the knit, the band is now knit all the way. in this couple pattern I do not take the children of the main pattern, who so here now that is the point of the front, there will also not be an increase in the front, now the point comes from the ra clan line, that means one point . now it is increased in front and behind the regulating line why tilt God and now you stretch it more that is now the right row the right row the second row in front and behind each raglan stitch to take a stitch here on the back no It's like this I'm starting now with my sixth row here and in the sixth row there I'm going to stitch right behind the band for the first time, so I'll tell you that here they are again the pattern again like the band. and until now I have always increased points in front and behind the wheels in the second and fourth row, of course also in the sixth row so that with our band this is the one you like on the band and then take it Now just add a point here in front of the band.

This is now the ground line of the ras. Be careful with the threads and add wine again behind the measurement line and continue like this here on the back, now also on the sixth row in front of the. Mark to take a point and behind the mark to take a mosque and now I'm here on the back points, I'll show you this again to just take a point and now stretch these two people in the back and the other. on the side, actually inclined in exactly the same way as with the regulating lines, do the same and in every sixth row of the cuffs of the names and on the back, make the radler lines straight to take one every second row, now I have woven a whole. piece and I'm here at 80.

I want the Radler line whenever I want the

cardigan

to be quite loose and directed. You have to keep looking and test how big and long the Rockland line should be for you. now they are 31 in the front so they are 31 centimeters in the front. If you wanted them to be a little shorter, no problem, then just spread your arms a little earlier, just remember to keep increasing the weight on every 6th row. in the front of the waist until then and I will also do it after separating the arms in the back in the back in each sixth row we will continue taking in front and behind the marker then we separate now you have subscription Diana to separate I want to stretch the last stitches, I just see when we have that and take them from the radler line towards the front or back piece, so just add the radler line stitch to the edge that was now the mark like this and just get another knitting needle round knitting needle we don't need it and then you just pick up all the stitches on a new needle, you just pick up the arm stitches on a new nose.

These are the last things I have to do that I still have left. to lift down here is the maquis and this is now the point again and I am, this is now the point of the radler line again I will take it to the back, that means it is here now like this the arm. it's separated so it sounds bad the arm points are now separated so it sounds better so it's a little early I stop here like this and to connect the front and back on the small To connect the front and rear piece, I choose Lift four new points , pick up 4 new stitches, 4 and that's all for now.

First of all, it's the luggage. Now the marker has to go and these are now the points on the back piece. Now they are stretched as usual. Yes. That's right, now I'm here in row 81 on the return trip on the second arm. I just did exactly that, so I put the stitches on another knitting needle and picked up four stitches to connect the front and back. part and is shown here. I'm just doing it again on this first back row and then on row 81 as I stretch it here a little tight maybe tighten and these stitches are just as normal as the other stitches on the left now and on the row in the next row then to the right.

Pretty normal with some compromises if you want to do a little more I'll put it this way you can do more no problem include them here. I'll just use these four to connect them. It will just fit you a little bit better, like I said, if you have a larger bust size or The figure is more noticeable since you can simply take a few more stitches, you have to try it on again and again and now that it's raining. they extend a little more like I said, I'm still working my way through the 6th row here in the back and behind the akira, of course you can also decide individually how wide you want it to be if you don't want it.

If it's that loose, you can just stop doing it or you can continue doing it like I do, ok, I've already knitted a whole piece and reached the length that suits me. Now I'm in row 187 and I'm. Now starting with the cuff, I plan to just stretch the cuff in a bead pattern and the band was knitted the whole time, so now I want the bottom edge of the cardigan waist, where you still have to stretch the stitches. from the band you just have to do that for kirchen left now you just have to do the perl pattern by stretching with one stitch on the right and one stitch on the left alternating and the return trip Then share it like you did here with the waistband on the panel and now I'll come back here.

I have increased one mass so far on the 6th row on both sides of the mark so I will stop now, that means I will only stretch 1 to the right 1. Left with no more increases now I have the first row in my pattern for the waist in the bottom almost done now I'm on left right left left the comtec walker good and I'm lucky now or that's good it just keeps going so it's still leading. Can I do this using the pattern? We are stretching the salt. You should have an extra stitch here, I have no idea somehow you've increased too much, too little, in any case, if it doesn't continue flush here with 1, knit 1. purl, then you could just stretch two stitches together here that they fall.

Nobody realizes that then you not only see that the pattern is always continuous, so not even two right or two left points next to the land should always be sold. Now I have 24. 24 rows here in the worked pattern stretched the cuff and the length is enough for me now, I tried it on again, that's what you should always do and now I'm just going to click on all the very loose stitches and stretch. pull them out again using the pattern, so always do the left stitch and then the right stitch as they appear and then loosely pass them through now.

I'm almost at the end here, so these are the last few points and then I'll show them. You know how to finish them completely, most do, but maybe there are also beginners here, watch the video and for this or let the last stitch I raise it again above for me, this loop is a little longer, cut it and just pull it.loop, okay, that's a body, then we continue with the sleeves, so now we will start with the arm and before we do that I would like to point out again if you have any questions about the piece or don't understand something or Yes.

If you haven't expressed yourself clearly enough, you've proven it, then you can visit me on Facebook. I have a small group on Facebook, milas sala strict. We talked about all kinds of things there, but me. I have also created a special page that is about YouTube videos that are possible and that I show you no matter what sweater Kadi wore and you don't have to join a group, you can find them like this and there you can do it under each post. of giving sweater video 1 write a comment ask questions or express your opinion if you liked it, of course I would be happier with the positive ones than the negative ones, but the criticisms are not bad either, you can learn from them, so if you have any suggestions to improve , well now I have mine here twice and I had them wrapped like the color gradient.

Not at all because I'm stretching the cardigan now with a bicycle gradient that came from the utility room if you had a completely normal one then you don't need to lend itpay attention to that now with the color gradient it would be pretty cool if you used the Babbel surround media that allows you to see what color you have on your arm with what color you have put your arms still so that the arm bends, so start exactly with this color because here it is now, for example, the first color, the entire neck and shoulder area is the first color that was sold out.

I don't need it anymore, so it doesn't have to be that way. It will no longer be like that and that is why the second phase has already begun for me. Until now I had my arm resting on a long rope or a longer knitting needle and I'm already getting there. A short knitting needle measuring 40 centimeters is one of those that we use a lot to stretch the neck cuff. I can do it very well at first and I can stretch it in the round for quite a long time and then. Then I turn on three short needles and leave half of the work there, I stretch it on a short and round needle, the other half on another, and with the third needle free, I then stretch each one, but of course that can be done as iris would like.

Some people prefer the medlock with a long round needle. Others prefer to work with a single needle. Like I said, I prefer to do it with three rounds of food. So I'll take it here and now I'll first stretch and I'm here with the table now I'll first stretch the stitches on this short needle here just take a needle and look here to knit this stitch on a short needle like this and when I've stretched it turn it around a lot I'll be right back there with you now that I've knit the first round and I've got all the needles on the short round nail and now I'm going to go and pick up these four extra stitches that we used to connect the front and back and I'll do it again for the front and the back.

Pick up two points so there isn't a hole here, which is the best place to show you, so here are these four additional points and here I go. to pick up two extra stitches and I'm going to put them quite deep here now I have to look here so that as I said there are no holes so now we are here with the four which is the first and the. second point I have to take out a marker so that half of the arm remains because here I will always make the decreases so that it remains one.

The line is continued and the decrease does not last all afternoon, it is one after the other and now it is a little complicated at the beginning I want to pick up two additional points here on the side there and then I will go in there so that, as I said, there are no holes left. There are and now we're going into our second round, but before we talk about more stretching, we would have to connect them in the back here and I just tie them a little tight, I swear, not too tight or too loose, with feeling, just them knot and.

That's all. The round is closed and now the first one is still a little slow, it's a little difficult at the beginning but it was good to be careful at the beginning. Now we're going to continue in rounds and I'm going to decrease. one stitch on every fourth row on both sides of the mate basically decrease two stitches on every fourth row so now I'm on the third row and I would like to show you the decreases and I realized when I told you before that I had created a Facebook page. forgot to mention that this page is also called Miller's Streck Stube, just like the Facebook group or here's the YouTube channel.

That's where we've gotten to now, so now there are two points in front of the markers and the stretch. I just put it together so I've already decreased one stitch, now it comes to marking and I just stretch the next ones together so I've decreased another stitch so I've decreased in front and behind the akira and now I do that in every quarter round So I've already knitted the arm to the point that I want to start with the fist. I also want to do some patterns there again, as well as on the body and at the bottom and at the beginning I have decreased one stitch eight times. in every fourth row in time format, so always before and behind it in every fourth row and after that I stretched 17 x 17 x in every fourth row once in front and once behind the mark, so once in front of it and then again 4 1 and then on the back I decreased the stitches so that they remain in line, so you will have to see how it turned out so that all the colors fit.

We just have to see if maybe we have to unroll some. I have to do that now, for example, because I want to start with my fist here and that should be the last color. That means that here I will cut the second to last color first, so now I unroll this color. that's what's left and if there's more left over from the body and the other arm, you can take a look at it and maybe you can get a little praise. Then you have to see how much is left to combine with the cardigan. It always depends on what the color gradient is like, how often the color changes on your boppel, what you have there and what you have left.

I am now at 84 rounds on my arm and would now like to start on the bracelet. the bead pattern and of course you have to see for yourself how it fits, try it over and over again to see if it needs to be knitted a little more, strictly just one more. A few turns in addition, maybe continue decreasing one. in the fourth round or if you want something shorter then we'll start a little earlier with the fist. I just want to see individually how it fits your figure and your body, so come on, now I want to show you the beginning here. , so like I said, this is still my round 84, only these are the last stitches here and now round 85 begins and here I start with the mother of pearl, which is like with the band as much as with the cuff.

Do you know that once to the right of a left it is always displaced? I knitted the cuff now I'm on the hundredth round that the mark showed, it doesn't matter here, it's the hundredth round and I'll update it now. I've had enough. I tried it on again. I have it for myself. If you have reached the desired length, try again and again, better once more than less, if the length suits you, if you would like to start with slightly elastic cuffs. or maybe add some extra stretches. Then come here now the last stitches in the hundreds of dogs and then chain and the other arm knit, then continue exactly the same way again, there's the last stitch and then I can take the. one marked here with me like this and now knit the last one again and completely normally in a pattern and take it very simply as we have already done with others and on the body, just lifting it up so that you can easily and loosely cover it.

If your fist or arm in general seems too wide, of course you can too. Instead of like I did, after the 8th time from marking, I decreased one point, so I started decreasing just one point again and of course, you can continue like this and then just decrease more points so that it is at the bottom . The cuff will be a little narrower if you want that. I wanted it to be a little loose because the whole cardigan is loose and light and then. I have already reached the last mission of the fists. Now I'll show you the last point and the loop.

Pull it a little bit more and once here and now you just have to get it all a little bit right and like I said work the other arm against it then I wish you a lot of fun stretching and see you soon