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Folge 20 -- Test mit dem neuen Fräser - damit die Fasen rund werden

Mar 18, 2024
yes hello greetings, I'm your Matze, today I have a milling operation before my

test

and I bought a round phase milling cutter so I'm going to use it, it's from Sortech and it has a radius of 1.5 mm, which means you can See the edges on the top almost round with a radius of 1.5 mm. He will try it today and now shows the strawberries. Yes, here you can see from left to right the three burs that I use, so on the far left is the face. drill these are 10 mm drills. I always use the sorotec as a plan, the truth is that it is quite good, nice and sharp and it also has a diving depth of 5 mm, I think, although we never use it.
folge 20    test mit dem neuen fr ser   damit die fasen rund werden
When I reserve the piece first then I get practical with the incisor. The contour milling is available as a small box and bed so I leave a border on the top which is about 5mm the box is pretty much the size and the outside is the. thickness and then I'll do it again, so to speak, and I think that's a really cool part. So I have a 1.5mm radius and I can touch the outside edge at the top again at a 1.5mm radius and I want to

test

that. I'm going out with you now and let's start now, we hold the normal face milling cutter that is mine.
folge 20    test mit dem neuen fr ser   damit die fasen rund werden

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folge 20 test mit dem neuen fr ser damit die fasen rund werden...

So that was the first operation, now we have practically planned the base area first and now we will continue with the next milling cutter and now comes the tool change. never to the incisor cuts the cuts and now that I have the incisor there, now I'm only going to 22 deep, which means I'm not going to go to the full depth of 28 and then I'll just mill everything later. , so now I have no connection and instead of the normal milling came Estel, this plate itself is also 28 mm thick as I said, I go there now it is actually only 22 inches, although 22 is stupid because you have the adjustment of depth of 3 mm and you go into 22, then it makes exactly seven milling passes in the depth of another millimeter, so at least you want to optimize, then probably only 21 mm, exactly seven milling processes, then everything is finished, but I only I wanted to go a little lower so that the bottom plate of the small case doesn't get too thick, so I still have 6mm left on the bottom and that's it for me.
folge 20    test mit dem neuen fr ser   damit die fasen rund werden
In terms of shape, it's fine, it practically goes to a depth of 21mm and practically does the penultimate request for deep cutting, but now it has already sucked up a lot of chips and, since that is quite evident, it removes what is actually in the material and what a bur can do, I have to, I think it's great, it's going to be pretty good, so it's right at the end when the last millimeter goes into the depths and then the outside contour of the box is pretty much there and then it's the next again changing the cutter for the top contour with my new radius cutter or whatever it's actually called, internal radius cutter or something like that maybe and since you probably don't have a radius on the outside of the cutter that's handy as a round head but it is actually designed to cut.
folge 20    test mit dem neuen fr ser   damit die fasen rund werden
Of course, what I want to say now is that the depth is fine because then of course you no longer have any smart savings and now it's back to a depth of 15 mm and it's usually quite nice with the incisor because it has quite a lot of space. to get the savings but I am already at such a depth that I think it will be quite narrow and yes, there is a lot left in the mill and a suction system would be ideal. Sometimes I think it really is. optimal, but that's why I often have to manually vacuum in the meantime.
So now the third milling cutter is used, our new one, which means no more changes, which is also the problem now, which is a bit common because I've actually milled everything. to let it cool again, that is, now I am going to cut the top edges that have stopped in the milling of the cutter, now I would like to grease myself a little so that I can put the plate on. I put it back neatly to remove it, change everything so that I have a flat surface on top where I can then put the plate halfway to make zeros.
It's still going pretty good because now it's pretty much my zero, don't be scared, no Not being to the left of it and the air conditioning is on again, it's a little further down from the place, so I wouldn't have had to drive that far, okay, what I do is pretty much you can do it with it. Set the offset to 1.5 mm, which then practically corresponds to the radius. Then I virtually create two contours, the inner contour and the outer contour, and then I will virtually mill them with the newly created milling cutter at a point offset of 1.5 mm and.
Let's see if that's the case and yes, we'll see you in a moment, so now comes the moment of truth, I've said it up to this point, the truth is, let's see, you're already dizzy, but everything will work out somehow, it seems that I have been lucky and now everyone has looked at me, yes, very proud and now that I look at the whole thing there is a wonderful and beautiful routine of lazy people like me. , it's ideal because I don't have it at all when I do all that afterwards, it's amazing, okay, great, so I recommend it to everyone who wants clean, fresh edges without themselves.
If you want to lubricate here, buy the milling cutter. from sorotec with this one with the inner curve absolutely great there are still two millimeters left 1mm and I think 05 but that's really cool now that I'm done the good piece has become a small jar yes Almost as always the inner contour is really great , as I said with the one and a half millimeter radius milling cutter and that was the small one here. In the end it is similar to a milling machine, it is also much smaller and can be made and used in a single operation. on the CNC milling machine I said again with the simple 6 mm milling cutter and the 10 mm face milling cutter, although in reality I can give it away, but I did it as a precaution so that in the end it would be cleanly at the same height and that I had it clean and that It was there how clean the contour on the outside is, there would be a small difference in practice that does not come into play because if you then go over it later with the mm radius cutter and maybe it already has a tenth or two changes, then it could be that there is a little offset and on the one hand the round phase comes a little more and a little less and it won't be as nice and I think so, who will definitely use it more often, so it's really great and you really save a lot repeated work, especially in the higher phases if you want to do it later or it is good compared to if you do it. now with a 90 degree phase cutter or with a 60 degree one and it has it a little lower and more organic and yes, whoever thinks about it maybe even with a 2 mm one, but I actually think it's great now with the half and I hope you liked it. the video and that there is nothing there again, there will be a lot of conversion work on the portal milling machine, so I already ordered the ball screws.
I already have them, now I'm working on adapting the 3D printed parts. to be able to adapt everything intelligently, like doing it in a similar way to what I'm doing now with the belt more clearly in the longitudinal position of the motors, which also lets them run independently of each other for the moment. That means it is controlled synchronously, like now by the Arduino signal and I have the power amplifiers, which I have practically connected in parallel, one for each motor and I have to see if it works or if I have already done it like this, maybe in the tips I mentioned which somehow connects with a belt, although I already looked at the spindles, which seems a bit stupid to me, if so it would only be possible with motors that practically have a continuous shaft that also comes out. back, where it's easy to do it again at the back.
You can put a belt wheel on it and then synchronize the two all over the x axis again, but like I said, if you try it first and I think if there were no problems with the belts, then there would be no problems with it. On the contrary, the spindles fit maybe even a little more exactly and with greater precision because there is not really that thing called backlash or what hash has some play, they're super cool in terms of precision and it definitely works, continue like I said , the renovation is still a little delayed, I think in the middle there will be one or two milling videos and stay tuned, subscribe to the channel, give me a like.
If you liked it I would be very happy and the community is growing and asking questions if you have any. I'm very happy that you have any suggestions or maybe uses that you can still use everything for or go further and then Everything will still work. Thank you very much for turning on or watching and now, as always, turning off, thank you Ciao, your Matze.

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