Completely Transform the FRONT of your 2022 Honda Grom Ohlins Fork Kit Install HardRacing.com FDK112

Hey guys, today we are here again, in a tough race, we are working on our

2022

honda

grom

rr project bike and we will go over the new olins fort kit, the

fdk112

, this is slightly different from the previous generation 111. Today we will go over the differences, we'll show you an in-depth review of the product, we'll show you how to

install

it, what makes it a little different is that as you can see it has extra parts, you basically get four of these five millimeter preloads, you get two of the five millimeter preloads. 15 millimeters and you're probably thinking what that means.

They go on top of the springs when you push the

fork

s together and compress the spring, which is called preload and you can dial it in to

your

personal preference.

install

both basically two of these plus that for a stiffer feel if you want a little softer less preload you can use just one you can use two of these you can use all three it really allows you to tune it really it all comes down to personal preference there isn't a correct or incorrect answer. Some like the preload a little stiffer. Others like it a little set back.

Now you can adjust it exactly how you like it. They have five five spring rates. six spring rates and then you could use one of each and get a 575 spring rate, so basically you have three spring rates to choose from depending on the weight of

your

rider, it all depends on the instructions on what to choose for the weight of your rider. your rider again, personal preference if you're right in the middle you can use one of each on the new 575 or you can go, if you like it a little softer then do the five five, if you like it stiffer then do the six or if you're a heavier guy then I definitely want to use six or and all the preload spacers added up and if you're a lighter guy then you'll probably use five five and maybe one or two sets of spacers again personal preference that's the beauty From this, you can check Do it the way you like, you don't feel like you have to do it a certain way, it's your kit, you do it how you want, you get a rebound side and a compression side, you get new aluminum

fork

caps billet, you get the copper clips. spacer washers bolt back on the preload spacers and two sets of fork springs.

Olins has told us these have new valves. These are updated versions of the fdk 111s, they are not the same, so keep that in mind that not only are the preload spacers now split and you have more adjustability there, but the actual four kits are different as well. It is a complete kit that is relatively easy to install. I know some people are a little intimidated by taking down the forks, but it's actually not that hard to do. Let's splice in our installation video. Carrie will show you how easy it is to install. The video will be of the installation og 4k.

Everything is exactly the same. The only difference will be the fork preload spacers on the. video she only has one, there are no options back then, now you have options of which ones you want to use, one of them, two or all three, totally up to you, that's the only difference, everything else will be exactly the same. I've got you here, if you don't mind, give us a quick thumbs up and click subscribe and click the bell icon so you get notified because we're going to be making a lot more videos like this, and more products are coming out for the new one.

grom

we are going to make a video so you can see exactly what the product is, how it works, how it is installed, some little tips of the tricks we learned along the way, all we can give you is We will be in these videos so please Help support the channel, click the bell icon, click the subscribe button and click the thumbs up.

We really appreciate it and now to continue with the installation, okay, so the first thing you're going to want to do. is to make sure you have these special tools, you can't really find them at any kind of local hardware store, you might be able to do something, but these aren't exactly one of the milling tools, this is a 14 millimeter hex tool, it's very long . and it has to be long because basically you put a bushing on one end and the other end goes on the bottom of the forks. This is the tool to hold the fork.

It has a retainer that prevents it from rotating. It is sized specifically for these fork tubes. Yes, you can hold it. in a vise with some cardboard, maybe some pieces of rubber or any shop cloth, maybe it will spin, maybe it won't, maybe it will hold, maybe it won't, but if you want to do it right, get these tools, we we also sell them. rent them it's all on our website just check it out when you're paying for real owens 4 kits you'll see the option to buy the tools or rent them. I highly recommend you do one or the other, okay?

The first thing you want to do is loosen this big nut here and the bolt on the inside before you take the fork off the bike, just loosen them, it makes it a lot easier and you don't have to use the vise. In this step once you remove the forks from the bike the next step will be to

completely

remove the fork caps so you take the bushing and you just unscrew it so once you unscrew the fork cap you slide Slowly lower the fork tube down so you can grip. Take off the top pieces so as you can see I switched from the vise to the table so that when I remove the fork cap the whole bottom part doesn't fall off so the next step is to take the fork leg and Drain the oil from the fork, so be sure.

While you're doing this, don't take the fork leg

completely

out, that wouldn't be good, so to save a little time while the other, first fork leg, drains completely, you can start with the second fork leg. the fork now. The next step is to carefully separate the forks until all of these holes are exposed just above the holes, then you need to take the fork tool and place it. Place the dimple right where the hole is in the hole for the next step. Once you have installed the fork tool, you need to place it in the vise and tighten it.

It is very important that before tightening it, you must ensure that the dimple of the fork tool is inserted correctly into the hole of the fork. It's very, very Well, now comes the fun part: the blowtorch, so you can use a blowtorch, a heat gun or even a hair dryer, but obviously the blowtorch is going to be much faster, so that's what What are we going to use? What you have to do is heat the fork leg to a little over 200 degrees and you're just going to heat this last little bit here and that will loosen up the loctite nicely, as you can see.

I'm moving this flame constantly, it's not really important again, don't stop in one place, you're not trying, all you're trying to do is heat this loctite to loosen it, you're not trying to burn anything, so once more like. I said before, you only need to heat it up a little bit here, it's about an inch, but you have to do it on both sides every which way, so as many of you are probably wondering right now, how long should I heat it up? Basically what you want to do is if when you put this here you try to loosen it, if it comes loose very quickly then you know it's heated up enough, if there's resistance then you're going to have to keep warming it up.

It won't take long, but that's the best way to find out: go ahead and try it. If there is resistance then you will definitely want to continue heating it up, so it is very important that you unscrew it clockwise once more. They are unscrewed clockwise. This goes against everything you want. I've ever been taught, so it's very important to make sure you unscrew it clockwise and be careful because the end of the fork is hot, don't touch your skin, you don't want to burn yourself, we're using this lever, but it's something else easier. Using your shaft is fine, so once everything is loose, your instinct will want to pick it up with your hand.

It's not a good idea. Do not lift it with your hand. Just pick it up and place it on concrete. Do not put it on vinyl carpet. floors, something like that, put it on concrete, okay, so this part will still be hot, so depending on how much you heated it up, you definitely need to be careful, so now you need to take a paper towel and wipe off all the old loctite. that has turned to dust and keep in mind that there is a small o-ring on the top of this fork cap so make sure it fits properly so the next step is to take your 14 millimeter allen wrench and its 14 millimeter socket and loosen the cap.

Okay, and as you get closer to the end, the best thing you can do is take the key out of the socket and do it by hand because what's going to happen as you get to the end is going to have a tendency to want to do it. appears, so apply a little pressure, okay, the next step is to take the spring out of the fork, okay, then the next step is to remove the fork from the vise, turn it upside down and remove the valves, so that two parts remain retained. From the original valve kit one is the return spring, you'll save it and use it in the olin so it's like all the other kits are the same way and the other is the little piston ring.

There are now two piston rings, one on each. one and if you look at it closely you will see it better in person than with this video camera. It has steps on one side and is flat on the other if the steps are facing up the rod which is the rebound ring if the steps are facing the end which is the compression ring it is shown very clearly in the detailed photos of the directions, but I'm showing this in the video so you can see here, the little steps are up the rod, so that's the bounce ring.

You're going to remove it, it comes out very easily and you're going to put it on the Holland rebound rod right at the end. This is the most important step if you want your valve kit to work properly. It's not very hard. Is not difficult. you just have to get it right so once again the stepped sections of the piston ring are facing the rebound rod and you're basically going to take it out of here and put it right on the rebound rod. there it is, here's a little side by side comparison between the original and the olins, as you can see the olens have release valves and a bunch of nice shim stacks, much nicer design piston overall, it's just a difference between day and night. fully polished rods for less section, even slotted on the end so you can put a wrench on them to tighten the nut on the end and the bolt, so once again you're going to take this off and put it right under it, it's very important. that you have it facing the same direction from here to there with this stepped area looking up the rod very carefully remove them slightly, you don't have to force them, they come off very easily, but don't try to pull on them and break them. you break it, it depends on you, it is very, very easy for it to come off what you do, you take it from one and put it in the other, what you don't do is take it from one, you turn it around and put it wrong, now it goes to be on the face in the wrong direction, so once again look at the little steps on the rebound bar they're going to face up right now we're doing the rebound bar and the compression is going to be the opposite of the compression. be upside down so the rebound rod comes off and just slide it over the new one, don't twist it, that's right, don't force it, don't try to wedge it in, pry it up, pull it out, just carefully, carefully, put it in there and You could probably make it even easier if you came this way, that way you wouldn't have to clean up as much metal from here, so once you have it there, you're good to go, now you take the stock return. slide the spring down the shaft and you're ready to put your new valve kit on a quick note if you accidentally took everything out of the packaging and forgot which is which, as far as rebound versus compression, the rebound side will have the little spring and that small valve assembly on the rod side, the compression valve will have the spring and valve assembly on the nut side and also shows that in the directions the spring and valve assembly on the shaft side for the rebound spring and the valve assembly on the axle side nut side for compression, yes it is very important to do this correctly, I just emphasize it again because if it is done wrong, they will not work correctly and you will have to separate them all again , so the small and easy step if you skip it because you're in a hurry, it's going to cost you a lot of time having to take the forks apart, so try to make sure you do it right the first time, okay, so the next step after installing the return The spring is to install the valve kit on the fork leg, okay, then the next step is to install the new Olin spring behind the valve kit, so once you have installed the fork spring, you will Next thing to do is take your tool and install.put it in the fork making sure the dimple is seated properly in the hole and then you're going to take and put the fork tool back into the vise so next you're going to take the original washer and put that on first and then continue.

To take the Olin supplied spacer, place it next, so the last step is to install the fork cap and Olins recommends putting a little light grease or a little fork oil on the O-ring before installing. okay and it's very important that as you install it that you apply downward pressure as you tighten it so that it doesn't come back up and you remove the threads so once you have it tight what you want to do is take your torque wrench and turn it up to 30 foot-pounds, okay, and the next thing you want to do is do a final cleaning of the threads before you put loctite on it, okay, so by now the bottom of the fork should be nice and cool, like this you want Take a paper towel and wipe the dried loctite powder inside.

Okay, the next step is to put some deloctite on the threads here, olin recommends the 243 blue, however, we are going to do the 273 red, it is a little stronger, but one thing we want to keep in mind is that you don't Go crazy with the loctite, you only need a little on each side. Don't go crazy and make sure your o-ring is on the fork cap, okay, and then you're going to hand tighten this and don't forget now you're going to tighten it counterclockwise, very important, counterclockwise, so next A Next we're going to install the bottom of the fork into the vise, we're going to take our 14 millimeter hex wrench and put it on the bottom of the fork, then we're going to torque it to 52 foot-pounds, so next you're going to install the circlip on the shock rod, then you're going to take the washer and install, you're going to install this rubber bushing and then you're going to take your fancy new Olin fork cap.

The next step is you. We're going to take the Olin supplied bolt with some blue loctite and we're going to put it like this and once you tighten that hand, you're going to want to torque it up to 11 foot-pounds of torque, okay, so we're going to tighten this to 11 foot-pounds. , okay, so the next step is to take 235 milliliters of Olin fork oil and put it on the fork and as you pour it, slowly move it up and down a little bit more. So once you have finished pouring all the fork fluid down the fork tube you should tighten the fork cap tight and as recommended by olins just put some light grease or fork oil on that O-ring and then tighten it well.

So the easiest way to do a final tightening of your fork cap is to put the forks on, go ahead and install them back on the bike, put them on the triple tree and do a final tightening so you can see, these are fork caps really pretty. by olins, so if you don't want to scratch them, what we recommend is to put just a couple of wraps of electrical tape to protect it, so that's the final step to install the fork valve kit. Now you will. Exactly the same on the other side with the compression, the only difference on the other side will be that the compression ring or the valve piston ring will be facing down towards the nut on the compression one, so remember that the bounce has the step up.

The rod and compression have a step that goes towards the nut, that's the only difference; otherwise the installation is exactly the same. The only thing you can really mess up if you're not careful is installing the ring incorrectly, so make sure you take your time, do it right, look at the instructions, watch the video and you won't have any problems installing it and then it will be an improvement of the difference between Night and day regarding the stock fork internals and you'll love your grom all around. again and we hope you enjoyed our installation video. If you would like us to create more great videos, please help support the channel by simply clicking the Like button below and be sure to subscribe and click the bell icon to be notified when we post. new videos if you have any questions be sure to send us an email give us a call we are always here to help and of course visit our website at

hardracing

.com we will see you soon.