VINTAGE vs. REPRODUCTION, 1940's Overalls pattern || Comparing Simplicity 3322 vs Simplicity 8447

As a

vintage

pattern

seller for 10 years, I can tell you that hoodie

pattern

s are extremely popular all the time, so of course when things like that happen, companies say, "Hey, I'll do that again." Hi, my name is Stephanie Canada, in case you don't know. I, yes, have been selling

vintage

patterns for the better part of 10 years and yes, I could talk too fast all the time and you've come across another vintage vs

reproduction

episode where I take an original pattern from the 40's and compare it. to its modern counterpart in today's adventure we're going to deal with

simplicity

3322

versus

simplicity

8477 modern playback in case this is your first time clicking on one of these videos.

Yes, in fact, my name is Stephanie Canada, as is the country and no. I don't live there and what I'm going to do today is take each of these patterns and compare them line by line now in case you didn't quite catch this video. Here, where I explain why I hate

reproduction

patterns, I'll give you a quick rundown of the company on this matter, the simplicity that was requested in the early 2000s when retro patterns were coming back into fashion. donations to try to get some of their old patterns back so they could play them because I didn't really have a full library of their old patterns, well, go ahead and play from now on previous episodes of this that you've seen me do. a jiffy dress a caftan and a child's dress where in some cases it is very clear that they received the donation and then decided to change it on their own because they felt like it and other times maybe they had a donation maybe not and they just redrafted it just as you saw it because the changes were so big that it was very noticeable and I'm also going to set some basic expectations today, while I understand that many of you would really like to see me do the vintage version and the reproduction version in some kind of full format so you can really see the differences side by side at this point, it's not really feasible because with 4200 subscribers on my vintage versus 1930s fashion reproduction dress I made exactly that amount.

Seriously, if I had bought this pattern outright it would barely cover what it cost, so now it's something I'd like to bring to you in the future and to that end, what I've done is set up a coffee account, yes. coffee coffee I don't know, I'm going to say coffee because it's my favorite drink, so that's what we're going to drink, so that way I set a little goal there so I could figure out how much it would take for me to do one of these beginning projects. I'll end up with all the time it takes to make both pieces and I'll put that total in there, so if that's something you'd like to see in the future, you can feel free to do so.

Go ahead and donate towards that end or if you generally enjoy my content and want to see more on the channel and want to just leave me a tip and say hey, thanks for taking the time to do this, you can do that too. There is absolutely no pressure, although I just want you to know that this is an opportunity if you want to see me make these clothes, this is how we are going to be able to bring them to the channel. Now I'll mention the other thing. It's just that if I really do make these things where I completely make them up, don't be surprised to see said fabric and everything reused multiple times because a lot of the reasons I haven't done this either are not just because of time and money.

It's also because it would be a huge waste if I were to make this pattern, which is very pretty, but a size 30 bust wouldn't fit my thigh. The other way to combat the waste of this is that I would perhaps take each piece in its vaguely complete form. state and then I would raffle it off either way, let me know if you like any of those options, whether or not you're okay with seeing it cut up multiple times, you know, start with a big dress and then make it into small pieces. or if you'd rather I make these pieces and then raffle them off knowing that the product you're going to get probably isn't 100 finished and that you're going to have to just make a few adjustments or maybe add a zipper along the way because probably what I would do is take this to the point of being vaguely complete so that it can be placed on a mannequin and not ready to use, so if you want your own UFO delivered by Stephanie, let me know that it also has to be dealing with the environmental impact of buying new things or even things second hand and then turning them into clothes that are never worn, it's hard for me, it would be absolutely easier if people said yes, raffle it off, then great, someone else will take it. project and finish it just for them, but it doesn't make much sense in how I like to live my life with the smallest carbon footprint possible, so after that ridiculously long statement, let's go ahead and move on. the educational route which is where I just take the patterns, place them on top of each other and then measure them so everyone can know the differences because at this point it seems like the most practical and educational way so that they can Take maybe this reproduction pattern and make it for yourself a little closer to vintage.

Thank you for coming to my ted talk, but before I continue, I want to thank my dear friend Felix for lending me this amazing vintage pattern. You should go check it out. their profile on Instagram and we'll go through it in our standard order of looking at the envelopes, looking at the instructions and then diving into the pattern piece by piece so we can see the differences now, although first of all I want to say that we are dealing with two bus sizes different because, as we know from that video, sizes have changed drastically from the early

1940

s until now, so for current size differences, we will try with a size 12, which is a 30 bus, a 26 waist and a 33 hip and a size 6 which is a 30 and a half 23 and a 32 and a half you don't get to a 26 and a half inch waist until you get to a 12.

Let's dive right into the envelope where we can see that our model years 40 only has the line drawings and the modern one, although it actually includes all the original line drawings, also has a made up version of the model, although the downside to this is that I really think that if you were going to do an incomplete look you should have had it. I understand why they made the Rosie spin-off, but I would have preferred to see this hooded version and see how it was fixed in real life instead of wearing the same outfit over and over again in the Rosie the Riveter pose, but I also understand that that can depend a lot on the look of the costume, so it serves a dual selling purpose, which I understand, plus the fronts aren't that different, so it's fine and as always, modern is a multi-line pattern.

One thing to note on the front is that I still wish they put the original pattern numbers as well as the new pattern numbers, but again, that's just because I'm a purist and I'd like to know the original numbers and not have to look them up on the miasma of the internet and then on the back we can see that we start here with a little description, the body sizes, the materials required, the suggested fabrics and notions and then what pattern pieces you are looking for. for and then on the back of the modern you can see the number of the fabrics and the notions what measurement you are looking for what sizes equal sizes and then you can also see here that there are actually all kinds of different widths of fabric and how much you will need for each one and finally down here which is pretty cool you get the measurements of the finished garment which you don't normally get and I'm usually referring to vintage patterns so it's actually good so you can see what the measurements of the finished garment are in comparison to your body measurements, so that already tells you the ease of your pattern, but one thing to keep in mind is that since I don't know, here for our vintage pattern we're just going to have it. do the best we can to align the standard body measurements for vintage with modern and see if we can discover any kind of differences because I feel like they're going to be huge with the measurement differences on these two, but we're going to give it the good college try talking about college try let's get to the instructions another thing to note, I actually borrowed this pattern from a dear friend of mine, so these instructions have not been ironed at all, why, because this rip is still going on Here, if I put an iron on it, it would be completely torn apart from each other or it would destroy what's left along these little margins here, so I'm not willing to do that, so I apologize, it will be a little more wrinkled than it would be. usual, luckily, although the pattern was in better shape so I was able to iron it on, but the instructions not so much when we look at the old instructions, they seem pretty standard as far as the old instructions here are concerned. you have a black and white version of the exact same cover and then next to it you will see your steps in making dresses, it will tell you the notches you need right there again, it will tell you all the pieces, but this time with a little more detail you can see here where you can see if you want to cut it short sleeved or stay long sleeved and it actually goes through and actually tells you what the notches are so if you ever do When you come across old patterns always check this inside part because sometimes they have this little breakdown, so you know these notches here is where the pocket goes.

They really try to make it a little easier if you read all the instructions. I know it can be a little frustrating at first because it's not as clear as modern instructions are, however, there are actual denotations for most of these things, so you just have to work on it slowly. I believe in you, you can do it and then continue. On the other side we can see that it says adjust the pattern. Here's how to lengthen and shorten it and how to do it safely without using tape. Use pins and tissue paper or just trace it and don't cut the actual vintage. pattern, that's what I do and it actually gives you little tips on what to do before you move the pattern and how to make a tailor's tack, which is my preferred method of marking fabric because apparently I'm old, so below, at the bottom you have the general cutting designs for basically everything you're looking at hooded blouse collared blouse pants pants and hoodie and jumpsuits and it also gives you a little blurb right here of some cutting notes like a hey don't forget from me then on the back we'll start with some general sewing instructions which is always good to know, this is where in this particular pattern you will find the differences in the seam allowance, which will let you know that the little dots that indicate the three-quarter inch seam allowance under the arms, which is plenty, but it says to allow for alterations and the other seam allowances will all be half an inch, so the only time we're

comparing

the two, the need to look for differences will be in the armpit of the blouse, which is good to know, and then generally you will follow all the steps except this bottom part which will tell you the stitching details. finishing up how to make a single buttonhole worked on the bias, etc., but it's very compact so everything can stay on one sheet, which to my weird brain that's what works great, but I know it's not for everyone.

Now let's look at the modern ones. And see how they differ a few moments later. Now, for moderns, there is one big thing. I noticed you have one with the back, two with the back, all with instructions and it says up here because we bought this in the US, it says English. and Spanish, so I also have a completely separate Spanish package that contains all the worded instructions and measurements in Spanish, while in the vintage package all you will get is English, at least for this pattern I found in the United States, so now, what exactly do we see in an overall design of the piece?

But again I think they did themselves a small disservice by not showing the hood fully raised on this version and then we have a pattern design that is actually a little less detailed than even on the vintage and then a general direction section, some notes special cutting instructions that we saw in the other pattern as well as general sewing instructions, which is always great if you're just starting out and then at the bottom here I'll give you this. it's pretty well laid out, there's no giant white space, like I feel like there's enough white space for your brain to put it together, but not so much white space that you're like, why did you waste your time on this?

That's good, but you got it. pants,

overalls

, interfacing pieces and blouse, and then, oh, we have some Spanish here, okay, that's good, then they fit some Spanish into this version in the back, come on haha, oh, oh, okay, talking about things not being that detailed. I just pushed the rest of the designs to the bottom of this page because here we can see the contrasting hood versus the blouse interfacing and more interfacing. I'm sure it's fine, based on the design and the way it is. I understand why it had to disappear. back um and write it down here so thatso you know when you're looking at this page you should also turn it over, so I guess in that case, I'm sure it's okay, uh and then you have some just really big sewing instructions, that way, in case you don't have a book of sewing, they'll go ahead and tell you in the instructions here and then we'll just jump right into them so the pants and the

overalls

, but the only thing I want to know is what the seam allowance is.

Do we have the same seam allowances? That's the key. Where the hell are you? According to the instructions which sometimes turn out not to be true when you look at the pattern pieces, but we'll do it. get there so that the seam allowance on your modern model is 5 8 inches, which at the armpit should be 1 8 inches too small and on every other seam there should be 1 8 inches too large, so I'll see how it goes and then in the back we just have more instructions which probably tells me that there is a lot of the usual style in the ancients, but we are not here to go too deep into the instructions because the moderns always add in more detail than the ancients, we know thanks to the innate domestic economic experience of modern sewing, but now comes the part you've all been waiting for, let's go ahead and delve into the pattern pieces where I'll be using my lovely fabric tape measure and putting vintage on top and modern on the bottom because just like that It's how it should be.

The other thing to keep in mind is that I will be going through the pattern pieces as the vintage puts it, so starting with a and continuing to the end. down, which means we're going to start with the piece that I think the crop didn't really do any favors, which is the blouse. Now remember that in this we should line up our 12, which is a one-size-fits-all pattern with a size six and possibly a waist. that goes up to somewhere between a 10 and a 12. Sure and there really shouldn't be any other changes, right, let's just say we're not starting off strong.

I don't know how to convey this to you properly. it's supposed to be a blouse it's not supposed to be that hard not only is it not right i have my big center marks i have my six lined up your neck is definitely wider the shoulder curve goes right between an eight and a ten the eye of the arm it stays right with the eight practically up to the curve of the arm, so it looks like the eye of the arm is smaller on the old one, it's smaller by a quarter of an inch, so if you want older arms, you need to Pushing that up a quarter of an inch, this pattern piece hits a size 10 almost within a 16 of an inch.

Wow, I didn't think we were going to start off this bad, so as you run down the time you make the final notation of the three-quarter inch dart seam allowance, it's on the size 8 line and yeah, my nails, today I'm depicting a hollow cue, so there you go supporting youtubers much bigger than me, you're one eighth of an inch from one and five eighths of an inch and then along the opposite side you start down the corner at three quarters. of an inch and then when you get to the first center line notation you're one inch away by the time you get to the second you're holy cow, you're starting to see the curve of the modern pattern, but it's the old one, it's basically a straight line all the way to the edge. here and when you get here you're 3 8 of an inch away from the six, so the curve This is a much straighter pleat, while this one is much more curved and then the neckline here 7 8 of an inch at the neckline of the modern and then you have to follow the same curve down and here. on the fold line there is no center front line here on the center front line you're a quarter of an inch away from getting to the modern so from the six you're basically on the eight until you get to the sixth point well that's a good start . he says nervously let's move on to the second piece which will be the back of the blouse let's start with the positive we'll try to stay positive everything will be fine the plate line isn't that bad you're probably a 16 of an inch away or minus, the center back lines up straight for some reason, some unknown reason, the back of the blouse is almost exactly the same, it's the crop, it's a quarter of an inch shorter.

I don't understand how the front of this was so much. different maybe it's because they bought they left everything on the table because they did this like real shit so first we follow the neckline of the six basically to the dart notation of the modern and then it takes a sharp turn in the vintage ah It's really hard to explain this, so I'm going to show you here how different it is, so when we get to where the six are, I should say the sixth point, God, I hate multi line patterns, you're one inch long. on the pattern and a quarter of an inch to the tip of the vintage, so basically draw a little line out and a little line down, make a mark and then use your French curve to go from the dart of the modern and up. to that point, that's your vintage shoulder line because honestly, the only thing I can tell you is that there's some kind of notation near where the other one is, but basically this little hole here, this mark for 14, is almost where are. the sleeve is the top of your shoulder is your 1 8 of an inch away if you line it up and shoot the line down and you want to end the shoulder line basically right at the size 10 maybe a 16 of an inch beyond yeah , that's cool, that's cool, I love it, mmm dude, so the arm eye is actually not that bad, eh, it's basically after the shoulder line notation, where it sticks out a lot, curves back almost immediately to size six and stays. to size six up to about the second note, small modern circular notation and then it goes to the eight and then when you go over the double notation down here, you're looking at a quarter of an inch past your double markings. on the size six that's where your lines meet again and then you want to make a mark on your size six that's three-eighths of an inch down and curve it down to that point that's going to give you the correct vintage arm eye, so? that?

What you want to do is basically stay at a size 6 until you get to the curve at the bottom where you want to trim it by a quarter of an inch and that will give you the top you want. the vintage that is super easy. Did I mention that b was the number nine and that a is the number 17? I love how they line up. The other thing to keep in mind is that since I'm giving all these measurements, you're going to have to do them. Make sure you are using the half inch vintage seam allowance except for the armpit which is three quarters of an inch and that will give you a vintage look using your modern pattern.

You got it right, here comes my favorite part. I always love a good one. hood, what do they say now, this is why I have confidence issues in vintage, these three holes denote the center of the back and the fold of the material, so this goes here on the right, so this will be the top , the modern put the center. back seam there and then, the center fold is supposed to be your top for modern, okay, okay, okay until you look at the rest and then realize it's not okay, for some godforsaken reason , they decided to add pleats. the modern one has an extra curve that doesn't need to be there and is just modern and vintage.

I could sit here and measure it and try to tell you what to do, but I'm telling you right now, it's basic, it's a complete remake. which is for a modern sewer who is trying to reproduce a vintage garment. These are already exhausting. Why are you making it harder than necessary? To be simple. This is not like this. They are not the same god that drives me crazy and that is why I say. Please try older patterns first before you get nervous that modern ones make things more difficult than necessary. I'm sorry you got hit a lot, but that makes me angry, okay, so we won't give up.

Let's see if I can get this for you. Step one. Ignore all fold notations. Don't do it if you just cut it. Do not do it. You'll straighten this center line here. Go from the tip and go one inch from the corner and make a straight line one inch along this curve, then you will follow this curve. I'm following the old pattern so you can see how to do this because somewhere here basically right on point. which tells you to hold your third fold that's your point where it lines up again so you want to take your French curve and you want to write everything down here so that this line matches up as close as possible it's not going to be perfect but that's okay we're just trying to give it a better

1940

s silhouette instead of this monstrosity that looks like a hoodie you'd wear to your school class in the early 2000s, how do I know?

Because I lived it back then. there you want to continue that line, you actually want to straighten the curve because the curve basically stops here and then you're going to basically take a straight line down, interestingly right here, at the allowed seam allowance of 3 8 inches, which is a Complete shit. and that's why I hate and don't trust modern patterns because they change seam allowances all the time right at the end of that e that's where my vintage pattern lines up and then if you go from that e and you go down 5 8 of a inch beyond where the line and the er go straight down, it's still going to be a little bit off of you guys because this is so different, but I'm doing the best I can for you guys, so your hood is a quarter of an inch off the modern line and then from this point that you made here to this point that you made here pretend it's an edge of the face curve, so there's a slight bevel outward and a slight bevel inward, it's not going to be perfect and honestly, if you wanted to just make a rounded curve or a straight line that would work too but don't make this hood basically this hood is garbage as far as keeping the 40's look no let's play the game of flooding this video in the tray simplicity entrance. maybe they start paying attention, I don't know, maybe just ask the old sellers or I don't know, buy them again so you can do it the right way, okay necklaces, what can go wrong with a necklace?

It's not as bad as the hood is a very low bar, well are we surprised it doesn't line up? actually the curvature of this inside where it connects to the neckline has changed, but that's also because the neckline of the vintage was different and much shallower compared to a wider neckline, so just take these notes if you have the intention to change the collar of the blouse. wide like I described it, if you don't use the modern collar it's not that bad, but if you want, you want to trim it on your sixth by a quarter of an inch and you want to make it wider to the edge 1 8 of an inch anyway we're going to go to the sleeve oh I'll just say it, they probably took a much earlier pattern from the 1940s with a bit of poof and decided to poof this one because that's not how it looks so what I've done I've lined up the bottom curves of each of the sleeve lines and now we're going to take our little tape measure and tell you how much the curve of the arm has changed.

Let's do it, so even to get to six you have to keep going. an inch and an eighth to get to where the modern curve is, so the best option is, if you feel like redrawing it, lower it an inch and eight and then resort to some other sleeve pattern because you won't line up again until in the bottom, so none of this, none of this curve is present on the vintage, so when you get to the side with a single clamp, you're actually on the size 10 curve when you get to the notch and then on the double notch side. the double notch you're starting the drop down and then it curves so it's basically a much more rounded curve instead of the poofier curve that they give you here, if you like pouf sleeves use the modern one if you want. make it much closer to the rationed look of the 1940s and then just lower that curve overall uh the length is actually pretty clear it's actually pretty it's like it's perfect the length is perfect so it's okay, but I will say that it is in one notch. side for both patterns instead of staying on line six you're on line eight and on the double notch side you're on line twelve so vintage gives you a lot more room in your sleeve other than that sleeve doesn't It's the end of the world, let's move on to the cuff which is the letter f of the number 24 and that's fine, although the vintage one was the one with the widest sleeve, the vintage cuff is smaller than the modern one, oh my God, it's okay so if you want the vintage bracelet it's necessary so if I'm lined up along the side of the notch what I'm looking at is I'm looking at 1 8 of an inch shorter on the bottom side and I'm looking at 5 8 of an inch less on the other is basically allowing your sleeve to have more volume on the wrist, so if you want your wrist to have a little more room to move again use the modern one, perfectly fine, if you want it to be a little more vintage , just cut it out. a little bit and make it work for you, that's enough, oh no, there's a pocket, a few moments later, now that I found the pocket on a random extra piece of tissue paper, I was about to say, hey, good job ,simplicity, you put everything. of those pieces in one piece of fabric, except the pocket, so close, yes, at the bottom, it looks like there's a quarter of an inch difference between here and here, but all the sides have an eighth of an inch difference , which is the seam allowance, so it's not bad, it's okay. wear the modern one, okay you get an extra quarter inch at the bottom, but before we leave the blouse, let's move on and talk about some of the pieces that just don't exist in vintage, first of all, they are my pieces and patterns that I like least, the back of the neck, I just perpetually hate them, now the reason why modern has it and vintage does. it's because vintage actually tells you in the instructions to go ahead and put that finish on just the bias facing, not an actual piece.

Remember that rationing was a big part of this, so the bias facing was much smaller and used less fabric as opposed to an actual facing, that explains the oh god monstrosity piece here of piece 25 on the modern, it's quite a guide for buttonholes, you didn't need a separate piece because the actual perforated pattern just has it perforated for you, the modern one. one can't do that because they are already quite confusing with those ridiculous multi-line spaghetti and another piece that is not seen is the front interface which could also be partly due to rationing and really trying to use as little material as possible. as much as possible, so it's not a piece that I would say you should skip if you're going to make a real version of this because honestly, the interfacing helps hold the buttonholes and buttons so I'd actually use it if I were making it. . but I would do it with the vintage pattern piece, not this, if I were doing it that way the other piece you don't see will be the pocket band and that's because in the vintage instructions it only tells you to cut one strip of bias tape two and a quarter inches wide instead of giving you that rectangle.

It would be a bit annoying if you had cut out all the pieces and not seen it, so I understand why some people prefer the modern ones for that. because it really just gives you the pieces, but it's something you should know, that's all the time for the pants after the rest of this, I can only imagine it's going to be terrible. Great, I'll remind you that the pattern for a size 6 is supposed to have a 23 and a half inch waist not a 23 inch waist and my vintage waist is supposed to be 26 inches sure bad bad bad bad bad bad bad at least for that one side is worse than the other when you look at the pattern i've lined up the top left corner and done my best to keep the curve as long as possible throughout this godforsaken pattern until it just bends towards the bottom, so that when you get to the bottom your pants are one. half an inch wider basically up to the size 10 line on the piece which is 6 10 14. the vintage is an inch and a half shorter, the only thing I can think of is if they are too long you can thank modern simplicity for that too. the overall shape of the leg is wrong, it's a curious fact that here they have made a much more tapered leg, while the vintage one is much straighter, so the width is on the length at a shortened mark on the actual modern pattern , that's where you really start.

See how you start the curve of this pattern because at that point you are already 1 8 of an inch away from the size 10 mark and when you get to the final point of the crop you will be on the 10 line so start your curve. and start trying to get it down to a 10 and then if you want the length leave it up to the mod up to the normal length and then take it from there the mod is giving you like a three inch hem which is not correct , they should I've only folded about an inch and a half back, not what they gave you and then at the end the actual length on one side is up to 10 and on the other side you have another inch and a quarter. your line from that inch and a quarter basically draw a straight line to the inseam notation six, but leave it a half inch short because that's where your inseam ends, so the modern inseam is a half inch lower, that's your pant line , friends. so you have a lot more room in the vintage than in the modern ones and then you follow the curve basically of the 14 and that's your vintage line, the pleats are actually correct for size six, so there you have the simplicity.

I got the pleats right like a mega disk, well that was enlightening, let's go to the other side, so basically we are seeing the same problems that we saw on the front of the pants, the back of the pants, what I have done this time is lined up with the top. The right side is aligned trying to keep the front curve as close to the modern six as possible. The interesting thing is that the vintage dart is an inch longer and a quarter of an inch less wide, so they took a longer and narrower dart compared to the modern one.

Honestly, it depends so much on preference that it doesn't even matter how different it is. I will say that the placement of the darts on the curvature of the pants is correct, however the overall width is not that great at the top, the pants are 3 8. of an inch shallower and if you follow the curve of the line posterior is basically a nice even 3 8 and then continue closer to the size 12 until you get past 5 8 of an inch and then from that 5 8 inch mark by the When you get to the end, you're looking at a difference of 2 and 3 8 inches in the width of the pants.

If I'm honest, folks, the pants aren't even close. The old ones are much wider, they are also one and three. A quarter inch shorter at the bottom too and maybe I should be more surprised by this, no, no, I shouldn't, but here I get my hopes up every time and I just crawl to the ground, you know what's funny when things they match, uh, the waist with a size six lines up, let me repeat that the waist on a vintage 26 inch waist lines up with a modern 23 inch waist size pattern, it makes sense that this shouldn't line up of all things that shouldn't line up, this is it, I think even the rear center marks line up, oh my god, that's right. the rear center marks align. the front center marks are only off about a quarter of an inch.

Makes sense. We will not stop at the container fire. Now we move on to the front of the bodice, yeah it's really no big deal that the modern one would only ask you to cut one, while the vintage would have you cut it at the pleat, that's really no big deal, it's okay, they even give you the small notation here so you already know where the center is so I guess if you just want to cut it at the fold you could start with the wrong angle at the bottom basically just follow the size 14 line because that's the actual line From the vintage here, the other thing you'll notice about the modern one is that it doesn't have this little camper flap.

I'm pretty sure that's actually a completely separate piece that you have to do and it's neither here nor there as far as the lines that match are pretty close to where the six crosses the 12 mark here at the bottom, however, you quickly get out of the picture, so the crop is an eighth of an inch past the six here when you get to this little dart point, you're on line ten, you might as well follow that until you get to this angle here and then from here, actually up to 10, you're on this line, however, I will say that the joining lines are pretty close to where the six are.

They're not spot on, but they're close until you get right here where it's actually on the size 10 line and I'm still lined up down here in the center, yeah, back to classic because there's rationing all the time. you're doing it along the far edge, you were supposed to fold those half inches and that was your view and then you do a hem view to make a thin hem face and then you fold it along those perforated marks and then the lining up was the only thing you had to deal with in terms of folding it for the main part of the lining and it's amazing how adding that little flap at the top means that now you don't have to do this.

The whole extra piece down here isn't that pretty, but considering how the hood looked, I'm actually pleasantly surprised it wasn't that bad. Shows how low my standards are, oh don't even get me started on the buttons. they're all wrong, but put buttons where you want buttons, that's my always, I always put buttons where you want buttons, not necessarily where they want, I always mess with where the buttonholes are, I mark them as a guide and then just do whatever I want um , I just realized the dart is actually half an inch oh no that's three quarters of an inch shallower on the vintage so if you want it to look more like vintage shorten your modern dart by three quarters of an inch . inch and then if you want to have a more vintage look, you want to trim it by an eighth of an inch on each side and after you move it three quarters of an inch in, okay, let's see how much they picked up the back, okay, so this is our little reminder that the vintage model is supposed to have a shallower one-eighth inch seam allowance all the way around and yet it is much larger.

What's funny at this point is only funny because it's comically bad. Um, I think they got this pattern in a donation, but it was missing the hood, that's what I'm guessing because most of this lines up loosely and the lined top for the jumpsuit is too close, so I think they got this in a donation, but the hood was missing or maybe the whole blouse was missing, so the whole blouse was very off anyway, let's go back to the back, so if you line it up in the bottom corner here it follows the line of the eight, but then it ends up halfway between the six and the eight, so leave your point there and you want to stay outside the sixth line all the way the same way, like right in the middle, but once you get from the top of the six, you'll want to pass. 1 and an eighth of an inch and then curve it I would say follow line 14 because line 14 looks like it's 3 8 of an inch, yes it's roughly 3 8 of an inch all the time so follow line 14 3 8 of inch making little notations and stay there, which will give you the most appropriate vintage rear look and the attachment point for any drilling you've been given for the six is ​​three-eighths of an inch above the six mark on the modern model .

I don't even know what it's for that's a disaster put your shoulder straps where they fit because this don't get out of this shit make it work for you don't get out of their notes because they're a disaster actually that's almost right, like this So what you're seeing here is basically a difference in seam allowance along the entire length of the strap, but honestly, the strap for the vintage is a sixteenth of an inch longer and the button location is in the same place, this It's actually fine. the shoulder strap is fine, there you go, look I can be positive from time to time when they do it right, what's the last r?

Which one are you? The letter r is the general belt as opposed to the pants belt we saw before. translate to piece number 15. And for some reason they gave you each of them for this one, so again I'll remind you that this is the waistband for the general version, which again I have from 26 vintage to 23 modern. Hey, look at the first one. Once again, the difference actually makes sense, the eyelet lines up on the other side, but this is the first time my vintage piece should be larger, it actually is larger and is larger by an inch and a quarter lengthwise. from the back, but I think Oh no, you'll be cutting two of these an eternity later, so in this waist situation what vintage does is you first connect the bodice and the pants and then take the singular belt piece that you have cut and sew it so that it is in the middle of those two pieces, the modern one gives you two waistband pieces, one for the front and one for the back, first you sew them to the bodice, then you join the bodice and the pants and then fold that belt piece yourself.

I prefer vintage because that means there is less bulk in the waist because you only have one piece and it is on the outside of the garment instead of the inside. The interior can be finished with pinking shears or overcasting. Let's look at the pants pocket. Completing our pieces that we actually have, yeah, okay, that's not bad, again it's pretty much the difference in seam allowance and then an extra quarter inch at the bottom, exactly the same as the top pockets, so It's not bad at all, it's actually okay, but Stephanie, what's up with everything? those extra pieces, well, folks, I mean, are we surprised first?

There are only duplicates on some, you can see here eight and eight, I mean it, it's lovely and here I have a loop underneath that is supposed to go along the side that the crop tells you. do too, but again it doesn't give you the actual piece, it just tells you in the instructions what size it's supposed to be. I'm not even going to bother measuring it because almostI can guarantee it's wrong and we already discussed the interfacing pieces and then the same for the back, they give you a back on this which is funny because that can make it 5 to 8 inches even less because oh heavens, while the vintage back only allows you. that same hem with a very fine level of stitching and then you fold it over that half inch so this front facing piece here no, two and a half inches, of course, no, why would they make it the same size as actually It is, but in the vintage it is labeled as a three inch wide piece.

We've talked about the pocket pant band simply not existing because, again, that was just a described piece, not a given piece, and the only other piece I see is this one under the lap here that goes to the pants section of The one we talked about above is described in the instructions, but no final thoughts are actually given. Well, I hope this video helped you today in hopes that you can use a real retro pattern and turn it into a more authentic and vintage style. what you were looking for and if you think this is fun for me, you would be wildly wrong because I would rather poke out my eyeball with a rusty fork.

They're not that bad when it's actually something that's a little bit closer to the actual pattern I'm measuring, but when you come across things like that hood, there's just a level of murder in my eyes that comes through because, like I said, the The only reason I can think of that pattern piece is so different is because it was missing from the original pattern they were given if you enjoyed this video. Be sure to click the like button below and be sure to comment and let me know what patterns you would like me to keep an eye out for, like I always said I keep an eye out for them all the time but I like to make a list of that way, in case I find the crop or the play, I can get it and hopefully eventually pair them up one day and make sure to hit that bell notification that way YouTube could let you know two days or two weeks after posting a video . and friends, if you want to see them come to life in a real made up version of repro vs vintage, be sure to visit my coffee link so you can help donate towards that end and if in doubt.

Stay beautiful friends, we will see you all next time. My name is Stephanie Canada in case you didn't know because that's the name of my channel and I'm very creative. Oh hey, you finally finished the pressure washing, yeah, because if it's not. trash people so it's pressure washed in this yeah actually we're going to deal with I don't know the number you think would do this eventually I would insert the SpongeBob thing in here because this is going to take forever to figure out where m oh no, what? I did it? Do all this and I don't understand that you got the vague shape, the simplicity right, however, let's get down to the nitty-gritty, please, okay, wait, what's your seam allowance on this?

You had a job too in case you were wondering about Stephanie. Why don't you cut them so they're easier to put in here? I don't want them in my house.