SLEEVE PATTERN tutorial (+2cm): BASICS - SEWING SCHOOL - THISISKACHI

Hello guys and welcome back to my channel, so you might be wondering what's up with the title of this video because in my last video I said that I would be uploading the second part of my empire dress video and I might have made a little mistake of calculation regarding my fabric consumption for the skirt and it's possible that I didn't order enough, that's why obviously I can't show you the second part of the video because I don't have the fabric yet, maybe you won't even receive it next week, but it will arrive . Don't worry about that I just have to wait for the fabric to arrive and then I can continue with my empire dress so since I didn't want to just not upload anything I thought it would be good to continue with the basic

pattern

tutorial

s. that I've been making and the next logical

pattern

would be the

sleeve

pattern because we made the skirt, we made a dress and then obviously we need a

sleeve

for the dress before we move on to pants and jumpsuits and all that good stuff and then a bunch of varieties for all the patterns that we already made, as well as how to adjust the patterns, adjust the patterns and also what additions you have to put in different patterns for different garments, so those are all the videos that I still want to make and that's why I decided Make a sleeve pattern between the two parts of the empire dress.

We will make the sleeve pattern for the dress pattern I made in this episode here. If you haven't seen that episode, I highly recommend you do because you have to. you have a blouse or dress pattern to make a sleeve pattern because you always make a sleeve pattern for a specific dress and that's why I encourage you to go ahead and watch the video on how to make the dress pattern before watching this video and that's it for the introduction let's jump right into the video okay so we'll start with a blank sheet of paper as always we'll need something that's a minimum of 60 centimeters or around that number and then we'll need around, Let's say, 50 centimeters. aside so this is a lot more than we need, we're actually only going to use that amount and today, since we're going to make sleeve patterns, which is very, very important, we're going to have to use our dress pattern, so the Rule number one with sleeve patterns is that you make the sleeve pattern for something you already created, you need a pattern that you make the sleeve for, that's rule number one and then also just for a setup, we have a dart here and we actually need to close the beginning. and put it here on the shoulder now all you have to do, I prepared it a little bit is cut on this line right here towards the corner and cut here and then you can move it like this and tape it down. down with a piece of tape like this and this is all we need to do for the preparation of the pattern because now we are just going to work with our armhole, before we start we are going to have to take some measurements and I am going to have a separate table for the measurements of the armhole or sleeve pattern.

I set up the table basically right here, but I'll quickly review it with you and create a new one. What you will have in your size chart are all different measurements. that you will have to take, we will start with the height of our armhole and then we are going to separate both into the circumference of the front armhole and the circumference of the back armhole, as you will remember from my episode 1 where I showed you the custom size chart for the patterns general dresses or for patterns in general. I'm using the German abbreviations only because I don't know the English ones and I don't know the exact names in English, since I learned everything in German, obviously, okay, so We will also need the circumference of our armhole, then we will need the diameter of our armhole.

We already did that calculation in our custom sizing chart for the dress pattern, but we'll need this in the sleeve pattern as well. and then just some other measurements like wrist circumference, upper arm circumference, in case we need to add some extra widths on the sleeve, we can also write that here and then one thing that is very difficult for I translate in English, basically you have a sleeve cap and we need the sleeve cap to have a rounded shape, so now that we have all this, we are also going to calculate the force one and then half a few and then we need a third of a measurement so the armhole height we're going to go back to our pattern pieces, the front armhole height and the back armhole height are measured differently, so you go to the outside shoulder point on the front piece and measure to the point where the third of the armhole circumference is located. it's marked right there so in my case my front armhole height is 15.5 and then the back one is measured differently so it's better if you have a ruler that has 90 degree angles painted on it so we'll have to have a 90 degree angle. right here and we'll measure up so you can see I have a back armhole height of 16.8 and then you'll just add both numbers together and that will be your armhole height which is 32.3, then we have the circumference of both the front and the back piece which you just measure like this, so basically you just measure this part and write it in the front circumference position and then you'll measure it here to the side seam and you'll also write it in the back armhole circumference. place in the size chart and then you will add both and that is your full circumference, so in my case it is 38, so the ad we already have in our personalized size chart that we have been using to make the dress pattern and Lo we have down here and we need this calculation with the addition, so in my case it's 9.75, so the length of this blade is basically just a standard 60.

Then we have the wrist circumference. I just took a look at a size chart that has around my measurements. and I used 16, then the circumference of your upper arm, which is also something I reached on a size chart. I'll add the size charts you can use for this right here on my sleeve chart so you can use those too if you want. For I'll use 27 centimeters and then here we're going to calculate so the width of the upper arm is calculated like this, just use the circumference of the upper arm and just add two to four centimeters depending on the garment you're making.

So this sleeve can be used for blouses, jackets and coats. It's just a standard sleeve pattern and the wider the item of clothing, the more you give in the width of your upper arm, so in my case, I have this dress really small and tight. pattern, I'll just add two centimeters to my width to get a width of 29 centimeters, adding fullness to all of this. We're not going to do this now since we have a small pattern and then we have the sleeve height. and that's also a calculation now this calculation is a little more complicated than this one and it's half your height minus one fifth of your circumference minus 0.5 centimeters to 1.5 centimeters this also depends on what you're doing so this one right here, this formula is only for smaller patterns, so if I were to make a coat, I would use a tenth of your ad and then put one to two centimeters into this calculation, so that's four layers and this it's for smaller patterns like blouses or tighter jackets and things like that, we'll use this here and if we do the calculation we can also use this here, so this is 16.15 minus one fifth and we'll have to do the calculation correctly. here a fifth of 9.75 is 1.9 and then we'll do 0.5, so we'll get to 13.75 for our sleeve cap.

Okay, so we'll start with a point that's at the top left and there should be enough room for you to measure 60 centimeters. In fact, I'm going to take my black pen again so you can see better what I'm doing measuring 60 centimeters. This is my place that I start with and the first thing that What we're doing is actually marking 60 centimeters down which is right here for me and after that, because our sleeve is obviously also a 3D object and it's going to be around something round, we're going to have to adjust the hem for this situation basically. so we're going to have to adjust the line right here, so we're going to measure two or three centimeters and that's basically due to how our arm is built, so we have our elbow, which goes like this to the right, so we're Most of the time we have our arm at a bit of an angle, so you don't need as much fabric on the inside of your arm as you do on the outside because here you're going to have to cover the elbow that's there, you know there's more space than there would be here, so That's what we're going to go up two centimeters right here, okay, once we have all of that, we're going to measure the height of the sleeve cap, basically, which we've been measuring before and stuff. is this number that we calculated down here, so 13.75 we're going to measure down from our point one, basically this is here now, once we've done that, we're actually going to measure from this point to the point that we placed highest.

So up to here we're going to divide this length in two and add a centimeter to the bottom section so this is 44.25, half of that is 22.125, so it would be right here, but then we're going to add a centimeter and mark this right here and this is the elbow line, so we can go ahead and tilt it to the right, as well as the hem, not the two centimeters higher but the actual hem, then also this place right here where we mark the height of the sleeve cap and then also this point here we're going to continue with this point here and we're actually going to mark 1 4 of the diameter or width of our armhole.

This is actually a number that we already calculated here, so in my In case it's 2.5 centimeters, we'll mark it right there and this is our front sleeve point. As if you remember, we already marked this point on our pattern pieces, so basically this point that we marked here will be this point and then we're going to do something similar on the other side as well and this will be this point, so these two are our sleeve stitches where we know they're going to meet, so if we sew all of this, we're going to have to have a notch right there on our fabrics because we know that these stitches are going to be sewn together and now we're going to take this stitch and we're going to measure half of the circumference of our sleeve, so in my case 19 centimeters for this side right here and we are going to mark until we meet the top line that we drew before, so this is right here and then we will do the same but we will do half the circumference of our armhole minus one so that not 19 but 18 centimeters until we meet the line, so it's right there.

Now we'll go back to the first point that we drew and we'll mark our ad plus four centimeters and then we'll mark our ad plus. six centimeters, so in my case it's 13.75 and then it's going to be 15.75, so here now it's going to get a little more complicated, so once we've measured those lengths there, we'll have some kind of overlap and this overlap has to happen, if you don't have an overlap right there, you have to redo all your measurements and do it again because this has to overlap, so now we have basically this area here that overlaps and we're just going to take the middle of that and use this like our point that tells you how wide your sleeve is going to be, so we're just going to angle everything down from that point down, okay, now we're going to draw the cap of our sleeve here.

We're going to measure this length right there, which is 14.5 in my case, and then we're going to divide it in half, so 7.25 and we're going to add one centimeter from the first point, from the left, so we're not going a we make 7.25 but 8.25 as our first mark and then we will do the same thing but in the opposite direction from this point, as you know, this is 14.5, half of that is 7.25 and we are going to go plus one coming from the right side, so We'll be right there and then we'll come back to this point and we'll actually have this right there and this point will be connected to our sleeve point and we'll have it right there as well and then we'll be.

We're going to take this point and we're going to connect it to that point up here and now we're going to go back to this point right there and we're going to need our 1 4 a d which is 2.5 centimeters, but we're not going to to do that, but we're going to do that for a quarter of our ad. plus 0.5 centimeters, so in my case it is three centimeters, please ignore this point. I made a mistake right there, so we'll be there. This point connects to this. point here and then we'll come back to this point right there and we'll mark 0.5 centimeters to the left on this help line and once we have the 0.5 centimeter mark we'll connect this to this point that we already drew down. there and now we're going to take a ruler and mark 0.5 centimeters from this line right there and now we're going to need our front piece because like I said these points are going to connect once everything is sewn so we're going to have to put these together points and copy the curve of our armhole.

Now this curve should end at the help line that I just drew there and we'll need to mark our lowest point, so basically where our side seam is, that's where the point is. the lowest point is now we're going to go back to our elbow line and we're going to go to the right, so we're going to narrow this line between zeroand 1.5 centimeters. I'm just going to do one centimeter and we can move on. and connect all the remaining points, so we will connect from this point from the front sleeve point to the hem point that we put two centimeters higher before and then on the right side we will go from 0.5 to one centimeter to the left, I'm just going to do 0.5 and we're actually going to connect this point, not the 0.5 help line point, but on this big line that we drew earlier here, now we're going to work on our hem.

Actually, there is a small mistake I made here. Obviously we need this number. We know what the circumference of our hem will be and we actually calculated this too, so we'll take the circumference of our wrist, which is 16 centimeters, and we'll add two to four centimeters, depending on how wide you want your hem to be . I'm only going to make 22 centimeters total, so I'll add six centimeters and make it 22 centimeters. Normally you would have a hem circumference of 18 to 26 centimeters, so this is the norm and you can choose anything between those. we're just going to do 22 and then obviously half of that is 11.

So we're going to go here and measure half of our circumference that we just calculated or that we just said we want, in my case 11 centimeters and we're going to mark. this up to our hem and then we're going to connect this point on our elbow line with the new hem point so you can see it almost looks like a sleeve now, so what we're going to do now is just mark one for two centimeters on this line there, I'm just going to make a centimeter and we'll mark the 0.5 centimeters right there and these are just help points because now we're going to draw the sleeve cap, this up to here will be a straight line and then from there we'll have this line that it will continue like this through the help points here and it will end at this point, not at the 0.5 point and then from this line onwards we can measure half as a helping also because we are going to make a line like this and this will also connect from shape this line round and then we can take a round ruler like this and we can go ahead and draw those lines. and then I'm going to use a red pencil so you can see the lines that I'm making, so I'm going to make this nice and neat and then I'm going to connect the point on my shoulder with this point right there.

I'm going to let it come in on this line right there and then I'm going to connect my side seam like this, so this is going to be my sleeve cap. One of the last steps before opening the sleeve is basically marking our side seam so we're going to go parallel to the front line that we already drew earlier and we're going to mark our side seam like this so we can go ahead and do the right side seam there same and now what we have to do like the one left What we still have to do is basically copy this part and transfer it mirrored to this side and then do exactly the same thing with this one right there.

The easiest method to transfer is to simply take a sheet of paper and connect all the dots. For this transfer we need to basically copy the pattern piece onto another piece and then use it to trace the mirrored pattern piece onto the cardboard, so Another thing that's very useful now is a tracing wheel that looks like this: We're going to turn this over, we're going to place it right there in this corner adding up all the different lines and you can see it's going to form a dart there, so we're just going to trace our rounded shapes that we drew a second ago and also all the cross points and the dart and you'll have some holes in your cardboard that probably won't be visible on camera but I can see it.

In fact, I'm going to use my ruler for this, my rounded ruler and I'm also going to try to connect this rounded shape in a neat way so that it doesn't make any weird corners, something like that and I'm going to connect it like this, here's the side seam and then I can connect this like this and then everything. of these points can be connected with a normal ruler and that's it and this is our dart and then we do exactly the same for the smaller part, we turn it over and then you'll see that those points don't add up perfectly, but Okay, just I'm going to show you how to trace this, obviously the curve and then all the corners and here's a corner, so you're going to mark this spot and then turn right there where those lines split, you're going to rotate it so the bottom is now on the line and then you're just going to mark those lines right there and you're going to end up with your finished pattern piece so you can go ahead and lengthen your elbow line as well as this line here and now the only thing left to do is measure obviously you want that your pattern will fit, so this line here that measures is 545 and this has to connect to this line here which is 46 and that's totally fine, actually it's good that this line over there is smaller and just a centimeter smaller than this line because, like I said, this inner line there and you want it to have less fabric than the outer one. line right there so that it folds and fits really well if this is a tap and smaller than this so it's perfect and then also up here you're going to have to measure if all your calculations actually fit your dress pattern and we also have for put the back sleeve point still on this, so we're going to need our two pattern pieces right there, we're going to go ahead and measure this right there, which in my case is 7.4, so we're actually going to go up here from this point right there and We're going to measure 7.4 right there, which is the point of our back armhole and then we have to measure the remaining parts of our sleeve both in the back and in the front as a control to get this right, so in my case they are 13 centimeters, so we'll have to measure from the back sleeve point to up here, which is right there, we'll see it and then from this point it's actually 13.4, which is right here, so you can see there, we have an armhole that measures four centimeters.

Too wide, which is quite a bit in my opinion. I don't like sleeves that are much wider here than the actual pattern piece and four for me is quite a lot, which would mean I would have to squeeze two centimeters into my direction pattern on both sides, back and front, which It's not very nice, I don't like it very much, so the only thing we can do is make the curves not so crazy basically, so what we can do is make this less curvy. Less curves, this is not going to be of much use. I can tell you right now we had 13.5 right there, at least it's coming up to here and then 13 on this one coming here, so this is going down by a centimeter, so we would have the tip of the shoulder right here in the middle and then we would have to add 1.5 centimeters each in our sleeve pattern, which is doable, it's still a lot, but I think it should be fine if you do it very well if you put everything in.

This is really nice inside your sleeve, it's actually going to make a really nice, cute sleeve in your shoulder area, I'm just going to leave it like this, this is my shoulder stitch and this is how you make a sleeve pattern, obviously you are not. pretty much done and now the pattern is done but you would have to cut this out of the fabric and then obviously also the upper torso pieces and make a full mock up and then fit this pattern into the actual dress pattern, adapt it to the person who is made. and then adjust it accordingly.

If you are interested in how to adapt the patterns, you can leave me a comment below and I will be happy to show you how to adapt a sleeve pattern or any other pattern you would like to see. I'm going to stop this video right there and I'm just going to trim it and then the sleeve will be ready and that's it for today's video guys I hope you enjoyed it and I hope you have the perfect sleeve pattern in front of you or are you going to have a guide that will help you in the construction part.

I know it seems complicated, but once you do it and follow all the steps, you will be fine, at least I hope so. If not, feel free to ask me anything in the comment below or head over to my Instagram. I'm always happy to talk to you there because it's also easier if you can send videos or photos of your problems etc. and so on if you have any specific questions. For your specific situation, just go to Instagram and write me a message there and other than that, of course, if you like this video, like it and leave a comment about the algorithm there, it will help me a lot. because it tells youtube that you really enjoyed this video and it might also suggest it to other viewers who don't know my channel yet but have similar interests, so go ahead and do it.

I really appreciate it and then, of course. Please go ahead and hit the subscribe button, as well as ring the bell, because then you'll get a notification once I post again. Thank you very much for watching and see you next time, bye guys.