Mimi G Sew-Along for Jeans Patterns 8222 / 8516 - Part 2

Hello darlings and welcome to

part

2 of our

jeans

, so last week you should have cut out your pattern, cut the interfacing out of the fabric with anything that needed interfacing and now we are ready to start doing some sewing, one of the things that are a clear gift for when you get home,

jeans

are your top seam, so the top seam is going to be very important, so if you are lucky enough to have two sewing machines, I would set up one top seam and one top seam. to sew that way, you don't have to. Keep changing the threads in and out, if you don't then you will have to change the sewing thread with the top sewing thread which is the heavier yellow thread you are using now.

I'm going to try the best I can. to match all the top seams to make it a little bit easier for you so you don't have to go on and off as much, but either way you're going to have to do it, so what I'm going to do in this section today we're going to do most of it. of the top seams on our pockets, so we're going to make our coin pocket, we're going to make our front pockets and we're going to make our back pockets and attach the back yoke. on the back of our pants I hope you're ready let's get started let's go over the pieces we're going to use today you should have the smallest piece 14 18 17 12 11 10 13 and 19 now for the back pockets and our back pocket coins.

I want you to go ahead and fuse some interfacing at the top so that when we do the top seam it doesn't stretch so that the hem allowance for the large pocket is 1 inch and the hem allowance for the large pocket. The coin pocket measures 5/8 of an inch, so I cut a strip of interfacing that measures one inch and 5/8 of an inch and fuse it to the top edge of our pockets, on the wrong side of course. Okay, so let's go ahead and fold that 5/8 inch and I want you to press it and then I want you to fold the raw edge until it meets the fold and then press again and we're going to go, I'm sure we're going to sew close to that edge, okay, so I'm going to sew on the top of my fabric and on the right side of my fabric, instead I'm on the wrong side because I can feel where the edge is. of my fabric is so I just measured it so I could have my top seam right on the right side of my fabric.

I am using a 3.5 long stitch kanau. I'm going to create a second row of stitches about an eighth. about an inch from the top and you can

mimi

c genes that you might have that you like top seams you can always do that too okay so we have our two rows of top seams and now what I did was I went ahead and sewed around of my pocket 5/8 inch away from the raw edge so that when I pressed when I pressed I know exactly where to press my pockets let's even out all the sides so it's I'm going to turn along my sewing line and I'm going to press that way.

I know that the tip of my pocket will be right in the center and that I have folded and pressed it even 5/8 of an inch all the way to the end. around my pocket, now you're going to do the same thing with your back pockets, so I want you to press 1 inch and then you're going to press the raw edge all the way to the fold and sew it right into the shape. we did it here and then you're going to press and fold five-eighths of an inch around your pocket. Okay, this is what your pockets should look like when you're done sewing the top and then pressing under the seam allowance, so set your back pocket to the side and we're going to work with our coin pocket and we're going to work with our front yoke.

Now what you're going to do is place your pocket where your dots are so you should have transferred the marks, you had two big dots and then a small dot here and a small dot here, so you want to make sure that your coin pocket is between both large stitches, like you see me doing here and then we're going to sew. This now before you do that, I want you to go ahead if you have a serger and finish the raw edge of your yoke. The front can't go ahead and trim my seam allowance to about a quarter inch and now before attaching it. this to our front yoke.

First I'm going to sew around my pocket about 3/8 inch from the folded edge and then use the top seam along the edge to attach my pocket to the yoke. I just found it's easier to do this step first. Now I'm going to grab my forehead. I'm going to place my pocket between my stitches and we're going to stitch close to the edge all the way around. Okay, now that I have my pocket pinned, I'm going to sew all the way around the edge of my pocket, okay, so your coin pocket should look like this, and what we're going to do is place the front of the yoke on top. on top of our front yoke, so what we're going to do is place it over the top just like that and now, if I were wearing a heavier denim, I would be cutting this piece like it was a cotton fabric. because you're not going to see it well, this is the yoke that covers that piece, but my denim is pretty light and I like the structure around my pocket, so I just cut it out of denim and what we're going to do is I'm going to sew it this instead using five-eighths of an inch seam allowance.

I want you to sew on the top and then on the bottom and then we're going to sew close to the edge here and you can follow the stitching of your serger if you want. I would like to sew our yoke to the front so I went ahead and sewed my yokes on both sides as you can see here and now what we're going to do is sew our pocket lining to the front of our pants and then we'll move on and we're going to attach our yoke to our pocket so set it aside and what we're going to do is you're going to place your pocket lining with the right sides facing right so that the right sides are facing each other and we're going to sew using five notes of a one-inch seam allowance around the edge, then we'll sew under it and turn it inside out.

Now I want you to go ahead and cut this down to about a quarter. -inches, so I went ahead and trimmed my seam allowance and made some notches, some clips on the curved edge and I'm going to turn this over and we'll do some stitching underneath so that the seam allowance is facing the pocket. so it's to the right of my body and I'm going to make a top point. I'm not going to make a top stitch under the stitch along the edge, slowing down just on our lining. Now we're going to put this underneath and we're going to press it on both of them.

The sides do both fronts the same way once you finish the pocket lining on both fronts we'll go ahead and sew with a top stitch close to the edge and then we'll resew about 3/8ths of an inch from the edge now we're going to sew again about 3/8 inch from the edge, okay, we have the top seam done on the front of our pants and now what we're going to do is 'We're going to place this on top of our yoke and what we're going to do first is sew the pocket lining to the pocket all around and then along the bottom and then once we're done I'm going to sew this into place on the top and on the side so let's go ahead and pin with pins now.

First I'm going to pin it at the top. I'm going to make sure my notches are lined up just to keep this in place. I'm going to pin here and I'm going to pin here to turn this around and I'm going to pin around my pocket and now we're going to look using five-eighths of an inch seam allowance right in our pocket on our lining of the pocket now I'm going to turn this to the right side and I'm going to base the top edge and then I'm going to sew the sides if you're going to do the other side the same way.

Don't go ahead and press one more time and then go ahead and go around your pocket direction so it's nice and clean on the inside and we're going to set this aside and we're going to work on our yoke and the back yoke, okay? go ahead and take a back and a back yoke, so you should have double notches on your pants and also on your yoke, so I want the right sides to look good; Pin it matching those double notches and we're going to sew using five-eighths. of a one inch seam allowance, so we're going to press this and we're going to do some topstitching.

Okay, now go ahead and serge the edge of the seam allowance if you have a serger or zig zag or you can trim it if you want and we're going to go ahead and press our seam allowance towards our yoke and then we're going to do two rows of topstitching, okay, we're going to sew the top close to the edge, okay, and then we're going to sew again 3/8 of an inch from the seam that we see here and then we're going to sew again, you're going to do that for both sides, it's okay, now we're going to go ahead and pin our pockets in place, so we do this one at a time and you should have two points for your pockets.

Yes, you should actually have three points on your back. Yeah, one point here and then you should have one up here. This is where your belt is one of the belt loops will be attached, but you should have two big points here and that's where you're going to place your pocket, you're going to place it between those points and you're going to place a pin here and then here. In the center, we're going to place it the same way we did with our coin pocket, so go ahead and sew close to the edge all the way around and then 3/8 inch from the edge all the way around, good once. you're. finished attaching the back pockets we are done for the day and we will continue next week sewing our center back and then joining the front to the back and also doing our front zipper alright guys go ahead and finish all your top seams finish your front and back pockets and I'll see you next week in peace.