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BEST Arrow SETUP For WESTERN HUNTING // MFJJ and WILD BILL

Apr 28, 2024
oh, that's going to be a problem we didn't even get into, right? Don't you think there's a difference? There is no difference between offset and helical. Well, we have two of the

best

archery wizards in the world sitting behind us, engineering. man,

mfjj

bowman, here's the deal, I'm going to nail you down, let's get some firm answers, a guy has a 28 inch draw length, he's shooting a 60 pound bow, what

arrow

configuration should he use, what did I say? 28-inch draw, 2865, 60-pound bow, I'd put it between 450 and 500, you know, because he had a big target. I generally recommend between 450 and 550 and if you're on the lighter end you might go more towards the lower end but but.
best arrow setup for western hunting mfjj and wild bill
Actually increasing the mass can give you more penetration, so use the most mass you can for the trajectory you want, that's what really limits it. As you add more mass, you're dropping too fast and that ends up being 450 to 550 for a For a lot of people, if you're going to shoot at a closer range, there's really nothing wrong with using something heavier than that, no. You would necessarily need it if you had the proper fastener head on the end that is durable and requires less force to penetrate. but that's the type of

setup

I would also recommend as it has a wide head which is good for the play you're going to be doing so it doesn't take too much force to cut and if you're using their heads.
best arrow setup for western hunting mfjj and wild bill

More Interesting Facts About,

best arrow setup for western hunting mfjj and wild bill...

In my opinion, I don't think the weight is going to be as critical because there is much less resistance on your head. I would also lean towards the 450 in that scenario and I think where we probably differ is when you weigh more and you weigh more. In fact, going back on the weight a little bit and probably going up the

arrow

speed a little bit for me is really important because I look back on my entire history of problems that I've had throughout my life and nine times out of ten the The problem was that the animal was moving before the arrow got there most of the time if you're an experienced archer and you shoot well and you're not inherently making shots that accidentally hit the shoulder, that kind of thing, speed is pretty important, so I try to keep the weight a little bit low, I think 450 is the sweet spot for a lighter weight, slightly shorter draw length

setup

, so we're on the same page, okay, you're leaning like, hey.
best arrow setup for western hunting mfjj and wild bill
I would like a little more speed. Is there a point at which it is a bad thing? Is there a problem where speed is a bad thing? Yeah, I'm not going to agree with what most people think, period, because I never have. I haven't been able to tune it, but it's okay, basically, Tim Mass. Is there a point where there's too much speed? It'll sound bad if I'm tuning your bone. No, because if the arcs are tuned perfectly and the aerodynamic column is correct and you have a decent amount of cast to center percentage I don't get yaw at higher speeds, I haven't, I've tuned things up to 400 feet per second and I got a no.
best arrow setup for western hunting mfjj and wild bill
Precise deviation, that being said, it's harder to do, it's more complicated, so if you keep the speed in that 280 range, it's a lot easier to adjust, but if you're really going to be a geek about it and you're really going to get up to the last ounce of performance. your product, which is what I like to do. I don't stop at speed. I usually hunt between 300 and 320 most of the time. That's usually where I am because I don't want that animal to be able to move before my arrow. it gets there more than anything else. I can make and handle good ethical shooting and my broadhead and field groups are either equivalent size or very close to equivalent size out to 100 yards when I'm between 300 and 320.
That said the average guy probably won't be able to do that, so that you have to measure your gear and if you build your setup and you can't seem to keep it tight because you just can't tune it that well. slowing it down will help stiffen the arrow it will help you always tighten it always error to the stiff side if you're on the weak side that's really where you're going to have problems, but if your error to the side is stiff it will just make it easier for you, yes, I like to choose mass over speed, and yes, I understand 45, that's our disagreement right there and, part of the reasoning, drag is speed proportional to the square, so if you have a light fast arrow it will have much more force than drag and it's going to slow down more off target and how much you're going to penetrate is really going to depend on that mass multiplied by the velocity, which is the momentum right on impact, you know, mass. it doesn't change, but the velocity will decrease more with a lighter, faster arrow, so to get that maximum penetration at downrange, adding a little more mass can help you and I agree that having about 280 feet per second is Easier to adjust, I mean. a little more forgiving than one that is faster, you know someone like you, you know a bow tuning expert, I'm sure you can get away with it.
I had a setup with my broadhead, it was more for testing, but where it was going 311. feet per second and I tuned it up and shot it well at 100 yards, I think it's a little more complicated, but yeah, and that's where we're at a little bit. OK. I like to choose mass over speed and go down to that, you know, 285 280 to 265 to 285 range. I would say for most people it's probably a longer debate than this, but I don't think there's really a difference between offset and helical. Oh, that will be a problem we haven't even gotten into.
I don't think there's a difference, there's no difference between offset and helical, so, yes, there is a difference, there's an offset versus helical clamp, but if I think about, oh, you're just talking about the clamp, well, I think about what it is. a helix is ​​really if you take a cylinder, move a line and wrap it around that cylinder, that's a helix, for sure, and that's really what you're doing when you're joining a vein, so to me it's more of a no-brainer. matters. If you get an offset or helical clamp on different clamping systems, they might just be a straight clamp or they might have a helical clamp, which means they'll try to fit that barrel more, but for me it's really that angle that we're at.
Speaking of which, I say about two and a half three degrees offset or helical is what I like. Well, if the vein is offset two and a half, say two and a half degrees, and it's pushed down, it's basically a helix, it's basically a helix at that point. Well the helical clamp is trying to maintain that shape perfectly for a certain angle and a certain diameter, so the shape looks a little different, but to me it doesn't matter too much between those two, I guess before we started this we had a different take on what you were talking about, yeah, I don't think there's a huge difference between a clamp that's already bent and a straight clamp if you move them to the same degree as if you take one that's straight and try to move it.
To that degree, it's more likely that it won't stick exactly as well, that's the reality. I think you personally can't get enough torque and if you can get too much torque it shortens your vein and shortens the torque but you have less surface area and still. achieve the same twist, but I guess we are in the same boat, other than being very careful when you are making arrows with a straight clamp or a jig with a lot of angle that your ends will not want to stick, yes, and my opinion is that a straight clamp it's really for a small angle and a helical was made for a certain angle that would be larger where it has to wrap around the shaft tightly when you're trying to fit it into something round, it's kind. of having to go up and down and around it to actually adhere to it, which is where you run into it and if it was a longer vein you would see it worse or do worse than a shorter one, but I still think a little cupping helps it spins a little faster so I still think there's a difference but I think it's not that big if you can get the straight one to stick so you could if you wanted to.
I guess let's look at your preferred main setup for

hunting

and a quick summary of why my preferred

hunting

vein and really, to me, a vein's job is to have as little resistance as possible and resistance is just finding your strength in line when the arrow goes down, but it has less resistance and as little noise as possible, but it still has great stability with a wide head in the front and for stability, if that goes straight and has air across the head here and through the vein here what do you need. having this force to restore it to the rear, so it is too small or the target vane does not work very well with a fixed blade head in the front, which I found to be

best

for stabilizing a vein that measures about 0.55 inches tall and what that would do.
That is, a jacket, a Max Hunter Q2i Fusion 2. There are quite a few veins that are about that. It is thus 2.1 long and about 0.55 to 0.6 high. I found it to be the most efficient. I mean it stabilizes very well. with the fixed head on and it really doesn't weigh more or add more drag than necessary and I do it on a two and a half to three degree three degree prop or offset. I've used a bunch of different ones but bits and burgers currently, what I put this is about the maximum I can achieve, it's actually 2.75 degrees, which turns out to be about the maximum I can achieve arrows the first day and I was talking class, I thought, it's so fun, that's the way.
I'm playing right now with a different brand that's a little lighter, but I'm in the same boat as you. I think it will come down to that, but I think the more helical the better I always have. It stabilized my arrow faster so I'm going to use something very similar to this but hopefully a little bit lighter but you might even have something on the way so we'll see yeah I mean the negative a lot of people are going to do it. They are longer and shorter, but what I found is that the height really helps you stabilize because with the boundary layer effect there is more speed here than near the arrow and it stabilizes more the negative if they are a little bit stronger, yeah, I've been working on something to try to make a vein quieter, but still have great stability, amazing, amazing, well, yeah, and if you think about it, if it's that high on the arrow, isn't it that high on the arrow? the arrow anyway?
If you're worried about contact and that's why you're using a shorter vein, your broadhead will go the same way, you'll have to clear it anyway, so it's not like using a bit lower profile is going to save you. . in some kind of contact after it leaves your bow anyway, why not go a little? Yeah, with the drop down board rest there really shouldn't be a problem, please God tell me you're using a drop down board rest at this point if you're looking. any of these things there's no way you're not so we'll just stick with it okay

bill

three three guys come to big sky montana josh tim and give who wins the archery total archery challenge big sky montana who is your bold prediction on where the Las Vegas odds are right now for 2022 between who, ah, I'll have to go with Josh and a guy, well, you know you won't make much money if you bet on me because the odds are real. really in my favor that I'm going to win foreigner

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