How to Repair Torn Drywall Paper FAST!

In this video, I'm going to show you how to fix this problem and I'm going to show you how to fix it quickly and we're going to do it right now, so on this wall I used to have my TV mounted here. As you can see, when I removed the bracket from the wall, I removed some of the

drywall

and paint completely, and this is typical if you have a cabinet against the wall and a lot of times when it's hammered, it breaks. Take off the

paper

, even if you have a painting that's been hanging on the wall for a while, moisture will get to it and the paint will stick to the painting and you take it off and this will happen, so I'm going to show you how to fix this the way quicker than I know now, before we start, if you wanted, you could just prime and paint over this and you would have a place here that is a little worn, but it would be painted if you can live with that, that's fine with me, if that's fine with you , but I'm going to show you how to fix this in a way that you won't even be able to tell it was ever there, so what I want.

What I have to do to get this smooth is take some joint compound, fill it in and sand it, but if I just did that, what I've seen in many cases is that on this

paper

the joint compound doesn't follow this very well. and it starts to bubble and blister and it doesn't look good, so to prevent that from happening, I'm going to use this shellac base container primer, now you can use a couple of different things, uh, zinser, this company actually. makes something called guards that works well for this. There is an advantage and a disadvantage to using this material because it is a shellac based primer, it dries very quickly, it dries to the touch in 15 minutes and then you can cover it with mud in about 45 minutes with the other things, the guard, it takes almost a day before you can put anything on paint or mud, but the downside to these things is that they smell a little bad, so make sure you're in a well-ventilated area if you don't.

You don't want it to smell bad and you're willing to let this take a little longer. You can use that which protects the latex based material, it doesn't smell like that, so in the first step, I want to get rid of all the loose plaster paper. I'm just going to take a six inch tape and a knife and get everything I can here like this, that's pretty good while I'm here, I'm going to fix these little imperfections, so this was a bolt that came out, so I just want to flatten it. so the paper doesn't peek out I want to go to the mud this is good now another thing you can do if that knife doesn't quite accomplish this you can see these fuzz right here you want to take a knife and take a new blade and just mark this on the top or wherever those blurry quotes are something like that, you don't want to go too deep and then you can take them out and if you wanted to, you could go all over the place. the way around and do the same thing just to create a nice lead again, you don't want to go too deep with that, okay, now, if you have something like what I do, you're going to want to push that a little bit further so everything is nice and flat. look good now while you do this, if you know you don't have paint that matches this while you're cutting it, it's a good idea to save a piece of that paint, any good paint store will have this type of paint gun that can shoot this and the computer will tell you exactly what color it is so you can match the paint when you're ready to paint, then you want to shape these things really well, that's another reason I like to use this is because the ease of use It comes in a spray that can mix it very well.

I have some doors and windows open and I just want to cover the

drywall

that came off any of these brown stains and I could do that. Well, spray this on as well, now you'll notice it's a little runny, so I have a roller on hand just to even this out. It is a dry roller. I just want to even this out and make sure I get all those little ones in there. cracks there we go that's good now we'll let it dry well it's been about 40 minutes and it's nice and dry and it doesn't actually smell as bad as I remember it smelling uh I only had the doors open for 15 minutes and the smell pretty much disappeared so now we're ready to mud and what I usually like to use is this right here, using dust control joint compound, it's already premixed so I like it, but you have to let it dry for a while.

One day before you can re-coat or paint, so what I'm going to use is this material from the same brand using easy five sand. What the five means is that you have five minutes of work time with this, so either after you mix it or while you mix it. You're mixing it, you even have five minutes to put it on the wall and leave it the way you like it and then it will start to cure. They make different times so that they have easy sand 20 easy sand 45 90. It depends As for the amount of patch you have, I have a very small one, that's why I'm going to choose five, because the lower this number is, the

fast

er it will heal and if you have a larger patch, I would suggest something like 20 because five. minutes isn't a lot especially if you have more than this so let's mix that up since I'm using such a small amount here I'm going to use a paint tray liner and be careful because this stuff tends to get everywhere so remember that this needs to be mixed quickly and it needs to go on the wall quickly, so we're going to do it as quick as we can just mix it with water, a bucket and a stirring rod would probably be a lot easier, but again, I'm just mixing a small amount, just I want it to be well mixed.

Now just grab the mud filling and fill everything else in while I'm here. You can see there are some scabs here. I probably could have mixed it a little more or if I had 20 minutes I could spend a little more time mixing it's okay just make it as smooth as possible so everything looks pretty good and if you're not the best at muddying the good thing is This is It hardens in 10 to 14 minutes, so if you want to apply another tight coat over that before sanding, you can do that if you can get it in one coat.

Great, so I ended up applying a second coat and blending it. This time it was very fine and the good thing is that it only took 30 minutes for two coats and now it is dry and I can sand it. I got my tape with some paper to catch some of the dust so I'm just going to use my sanding sponge and smooth this all out okay before we paint this let's talk about flashing uh flashing in terms of painting is when you have this wall completely painted, you know, I did this a year and a half ago or something like that and when you go and even grab the exact same paint by the way, I like to keep mine and label them.

You can take the exact same paint and touch up a little spot like this, but what's going to happen is you're going to see that patch and the reason why. You see, that patch is due to the difference in sheen, no matter what, as time goes by the sheen of the paint changes and they put a new patch on an old wall like this. You're going to notice that. You can even notice it when you're painting a wall and you can use the roller a certain way and the paint is drier that way, you can see the paint rolling up, so it's a hard thing to do, it's hard to patch something.

So, the way around it would be to paint this whole wall and I don't want to do that and I don't think you want to do that, so we're going to do what we can with a roller and tap. I lift this area and try to blend the edges a little bit and I think that's going to be enough, so I'm going to blend this paint and start rolling. Now this is paint and primer in one and I know some people. I don't like that, so if you just want to prime it first and then paint it, you can take that extra step right now.

I'm just going to use this, I think for a small place like this it will be fine now. I'm going to take a whizzy roller or a hot dog roller, whatever you want to call it, one of these mini ones and I'm just going to dip it into the paint because it's a patch, I'm not worried about throwing the paint away. I don't want to waste too much paint and then I'm going to take the lining of my paint tray and I'm just going to get this to a point where there's not too much paint here, but there's enough paint for that patch, something like that, let's paint it, okay, paint now. , it's good to use the same type of roller or brush or whatever you used to originally paint the wall.

Matches the texture of the paint that's already there. The roller is starting to dry, which I really want. nice and even all the way through and then I'll try it and just now that the roller is a little dry I'm going to soften the edges a little bit and I've seen people use a paper towel and just rub it back like this to make it longer but I think it works Just as well, use less pressure as you go out and you'll probably still notice it, but I think it'll be a lot less noticeable if you do it this way, okay? the paint is pretty dry, I think this spot is a little damp, you can see it, but this is where that patch was with the drywall, the drywall ripped and it's perfectly smooth and you can see what I mean by shiny if you look down.

I can see it but that's going to happen and if you look at it like that it blends in really well so there you have it, in a nutshell the process is scrape the wall, clean it, prime it, mud it, mud it again if you have to sand it, paint it . It was done and all in less than two hours. I'm sure there are different ways to do it. If you have a different way that works well, let me know in the comments. I hope this has helped you. I hope you learned a few things. and uh yeah, if you liked the video, give it a like and if you want to see more of my videos, you can click here and listen and watch them and if you haven't already, definitely consider subscribing.

I have a lot of content like this and much more to come thanks for watching until next time